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Ingo Filzwieser - Volumes and brain instead of crimpers  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIngo Filzwieser, the previous national coach of Austria who still is the personal trainer of Sandra Lettner (16) #4 in Meiringen, has a saying. "My motto is that you can not train like the last winner... you have to train like the next winner."

When he became an Austria coach seven years ago he analysed the types of holds used and it was like 65 % crimps. This can be compared with 2017, with some 5 % crimps and like 80 % volumes.

"Part of the reason for this might be that it was getting more difficult for the route setters to check the right level for the male. I saw Sharafutdinov (superior #1 in 2013) doing a one arm pull up with 65 kilo extra weight. Today, there is very little benefit of such strength, instead bouldering has become a coordination sport, giving chances for the route setters to actually do the problems.

You need to be very smart and also tactically skillful. Most boulderer have different shoes they choice from, in order to adapt to different steepness and types of holds. Coming into the boulder, you need to immediately get a plan and then start executing within seconds to not loose time. You can not just start trying hard. Sometimes I see competitors start brushing the holds before they start which actually will make them just loose time.

Doing and filming simulation is very important. Later you as a coach can actually give feedback on why they rested so many seconds and how many attempts they did etc. It will become more of a mind game in the future and this was one part how Kilian (Fischhuber) won 22 World Cups. He was also, and still is, physically really strong but he always solved the problem first in his head.

In general I like this as it also becomes a better and more injury free sport for the youngsters. It is also good that it becomes more of a team sport as it is a constant process of learning technical and tactical skill from each other. I was quite amazed seeing Narasaki and Noguchi closely following what the others did, in a training camp in Innsbruck, even on yoga classes. You could feel that they really cared about each other.

It is also important for the kids to finish school, have other interests and reducing the time they spend on social media. I agree on what recently have been pointed out on 8a that the trainers should have an holistic approach.

 
 
Steve McClure (46) at his limit doing Rainman 9b  (4) Facebook
 

 
 
Multi-discipline success recipe for Jernej Kruder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder, #2 in the WCH in 2014 and who has been an active competition climbers for 15 years, won his first World Cup in Meiringen. Interesting is that the Slovenian is mainly climbing and training outdoors doing all disciplines from DWS, trad and Big Walls and that goes also for his WC preparation. As a matter of a fact, the 27 year old should be a contender to be the best multi-discipline climber in the world, together with Adam Ondra, as of today. And he is going for the Olympics. "No preparations yet. Too soon for that :)"

His Insta from 2018 confirms that he likes all types of climbing including bolting up new routes. The week before Meiringen he had two projecting days on a 9a, see the picture by krimp.si. The last months he has posted from several comps, 8b+ trad, 8b+ MP and 8B boulder.

It was all about the weather, so it's hard to say how many days outdoor exactly. There were also some selection trainings and competitions too. But for sure it was more than 50% outdoors."

 
 
2.19.44 - The Speed record of the Nose  Facebook
 

In October 2017, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set a new speed record on the 900 meters the Nose at 2.19.44, on their eleventh attempt . Looking at the great video you can see that they almost simu climbed everything and that they in reality did climb probably more like 1 100 meters due to all traverses etc. The FA in 1958 took 45 days and nowadays, normally 3-4 days is used to reach the summit.


Two Nineteen Forty Four from Tristan Greszko on Vimeo.

 
 
Patrick Matros - Lifestyle climbing trainer  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatrick Matros, a professor for sport and educational science and one of of Alex Megos mentors, shares his view on training, in regards Olympics and that the youngsters are at risk. The 44 year old has learnt the hard way and has now a more holistic playful climbing lifestyle approach. Read more and follow him and his counterpart Dicki Korb through, Gimmekraft, Instagram and Facebook.

"I started climbing 25 years ago and we all had this strange training approach, copied from other sport disciplines: In winter season we did a lot of pull-ups, front-lever and campus-boarding first phase was more for hypertrophy and after that we went for maximum power. It was normal, that it took minimum one month to get used to rockclimbing again when outdoor season started. Nowadays I am happy to finish this stage injury free and improved with my knowledge of training in climbing.

One risk with the Olympics is that we will see climbers training much more
intense and structured at early age and this will have a huge impact on kids and youngsters approach to sportclimbing and bouldering. In the last years I recognize more and more that kids are playing less, as the coaches and parents put more pressure on them in early years. Instead they focus way too much on short term and performance oriented goals like gaining strength with intensive bouldering on tiny holds or making too much strength exercises. Often it is all about climb harder and harder as fast as possible.

I have a 6 year old daughter and it breaks my heart when I see coaches and parents pushing young kids too much and I am sure we will see more injuries e.g. an increase in epiphyseal (growth plate) injuries. Our approach is different: We have actually had the opposite focus with a more holistic, long time and task oriented approach when it comes to training Alex Megos.

The fun to make climbing moves and do the sport is the core! This means that only the intrinsic part of motivation with a playful approach is able to give you the energy for a long (life) time motivation. And which sport fits better to this idea than climbing? You have so much variations and disciplines, you can climb outdoor and indoor and you can travel around the world to fantastic places! Should you sacrifice a lot of that just for saying that your son or daughter or athlete was able to get some good comp results and then got injured or dropped out because of monotonously training regimes?

I think competition can be nice and it can enrich a climbing career, but especially with kids and young adults it is not all around focusing just on the next comp result and it should never be! Of course, some kids and youngsters like to compete and have fun doing it and it is okay for them to have performance oriented goals beside the task oriented ones. But as parents or a trainer you should never forget, that climbing is more than that: it is a lifestyle and a great way to learn about life and have adventures in beautiful areas of the planet. So don’t put too much extrinsic pressure on them. And be careful, as this often happens in a very subtle way!"

 
 
8B+ in Font by Jan De Smit (43)  Facebook
 

Jan De Smit has done his first 8B+ Mécanique élémentaire in Fontainebleau. It should be noted that last year was his best, being 42 years old, doing two 8B's.

"Even after thirty years of climbing I am still learning. Climbing hard over forty is difficult but not impossible, if you are mindful in your training/climbing then age does not have to be a limiting factor. After a complete biceps rupture last year I thought I might have to lower my expectations but with good surgery and smart training I can now do everything like before. Feeling proud to have done one of the best lines in Font."

 
 
Kruder and Nonaka win spectacular show  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder started first of seven finalists and set the bar on extraordinary boulder which all where topped. Boulder two, which he did, including a dynamic quintupleside ways might be one of the most spectacular IFSC boulder as it later was done static as well with a triple double dyno. The Slovenian multi-discipline climber, who prepared himself last weekend by projecting a 9a, is known for his topping celebration face which we got to see often. (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the female, the boulders were a little bit to easy as we saw three girls topping out all four boulders with Miho Nonaka winning topping out in only five attempts.

1. Miho Nonaka JPN 44 (5) - Jernej Kruder SLO 34
2. Janja Garnbret SLO 44 (7) - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24 (3)
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 44 (9) - Alexei Rubtsov RUS 24 (5)
4. Sandra Lettner AUT 34 - Jakob Schubert AUT 23
5. Fanny Gibert FRA (33) - Tomoaki Takata JPN 13
6. Shauna Coxsey GBR -(23) Jongwon Chon KOR 7. Manu Cornu FRA
Complete results

 
 
Great semifinal in Meiringen  Facebook
 

Stasa Gejo won the qualification and was the only one to top all five problems and she flashed them all. In the semifinal, she was #13 with zero tops. "Not a good thing to start last... I couln't show my best today mostly because of external conditions and this is not complaining, this is a fact." Beside that negative surprise, all the big names made it through except Petra Klinger. Sandra Lettner, 16, who won the Combined Youth WCH last year is also in the final.

Among the male, a similar situation for Nathaniel Coleman who did go form #1 in the qually to #17 in the semifinal. A big surprise was also Jan Hojer as #18. Beside that, all the big names made it to the final including also Tomoaki Takata. In total, Japan had five guys Top-10 but just two in the final. With the old rule, Japan would have had four finalists.

All eight boulders was topped out although two boulders was good enough for the male and just one boulder for the female. Complete results ( c) Eddie Fowke, The Circuit Climbing capturing Jernej Kruder who is the the final 18.30. Noteworthy is that USA sent a big team of eight climbers and they did just get two semis who both ended #17.

1. Akiyo Noguchi - Jakob Schubert
2. Janja Garnbret - Tomoa Narasaki
3. Shauna Coxsey - Manu Cornu
4. Miho Nonaka - Tomoaki Takata
5. Sandra Lettner - Jongwon Chon
6. Fanny Gibert - Jernej Kruder & Alexey Rubtso

 
 
Injury prevention - by Schöffl  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle and Volker Schöffl, have written an article about injury prevention. They are both active climbers and medical doctors. Both have done first ascents up to french 8b, many of them in Laos and Thailand.They are team physicians to the German Climbing team and Volker is a member of the MedCom IFSC and author of „One move too many“. They have done 100+ scientific papers on climbing medicine and are teaching world wide on this topic. They are right now working for an aid organization as doctors in Laos where they also were among the pioneers for Thakhek. Further information: sportmedicine.rocks

Specifically they have mentioned some risks for kids and young teenagers
- Neglect campus board
- No additional weight
- Reduce finger intensive bouldering
- Avoidance of constant crimping
Full article about injury prevention.

 
 
Meiringen qualification overview  Facebook
 

 
 
Strange qualification result in Meiringen  (2) Facebook
 

In Group 1, there were 17 male that topped out all five boulders out of which seven did not make it to the semifinal. In Group 2, everyone ranked from #7 to 38 did just top two the the first two boulders. As expected, Japan dominated with seven in the Top-20 semifinal and ten among the Top-23. Complete results

How odd as it might seem, nevertheless, there were no sensational results beside possibly that the winners of the groups were not the most famous once; Roland Rugens, Nathaniel Coleman, Mickael Mawem, Yuji Fujiwaki. The semifinal is live streamed tomorrow starting at 11.00 and you will fine it here on 8a.

 
 
8c+ 2nd Go by Connor Herson (14) under the radar  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge Picture"I do not share my ascents on social media partly because I do not own a smart phone or any social media. I am just not interested in it. I also feel like if I did get a social media account, I would feel pressured to get more ascents and do more climbs so I could post about them. It would just overall be more pressure. To me, climbing is very special in that it is an individual sport and I only want to climb for my enjoyment.

Climbing has many different perks to me. As stated above, I like the individual aspect, but I also like how it brings me closer to nature. I travel many amazing places for climbing trips where I wouldn't normally go. Another aspect of climbing I enjoy is how different it is every time. Each route is unique and different and brings me a new challenge."


Connor Herson grew up in a dedicated climbing family with a big wall interest. Being 13 years old, he French freed The Nose in 13 hours with his father Jim. "Seriously, you can’t make your kids like climbing. You can only make them not like climbing."
Family interview from 2014.

"I made a goal last year to climb 14 5.14's (8b+ and up) before I turn 15 (early July). I have done 11 so far, and I know a few more I think I can do. For competitions, I want to make U.S. Team for lead climbing and compete in the youth world championships this August. I’m not interested in the results, I’m more interested in making it to finals so I can try all the climbs.

I will spend much of the summer training indoors, but I still hope to get some trad climbing in at Yosemite or somewhere else in the Sierra. Basically, I want to keep a relatively even balance of outdoor sport and bouldering, outdoor trad, and indoor competition training."


The 8c+ second go, in the headline, was Southern Smoke in Red River Gorge and it was his friend Zander Waller who gave us the tip of the amazing multi-discipline climber "slightly off the radar".

 
 
8B and 8A+ in a day by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done the FFA of Delusion of Grandeur 8B (on the picture) and after she sent as well Electric Ant 8A+ in Chironico. Days ago she also did an 8A and 8A+. ©Chad Greedy

"Wow! So psyched, super classic boulder. not my style at all....slopers.. really big crux move that is my full extension. Top out is high and committing and satisfying... I was scared on the slab! not usually an FFA type of girl.. I think its dumb in most cases.. but I think I'm the first girl to do this, and it's one of the most classic boulders in Ticino so thats kinda cool.. Went up and the Electric Ant (the new start) right after! Probably one of my best days of climbing!"

Isabelle has logged on her scorecard 93 ascents from 8A to 8B+ and is one of the best boulderers of all time.

 
 
Second 9a by Julia Chanourdie  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing reports that Julia Chanourdie, #5 in the World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, Molasse’son in Mollans. Photo: Jocelyn Chavy

"It has been a while some people were speaking to me about this crag of Mollans. I was there for the first time last October. from the beginning, “Mollasse’son” inspired me a lot. This route is in a 45° overhang and maybe more in some parts. It could be broken in very intense parts of finger resistance between few rests. The hardest part is for me the start, very bouldery."

 
 
How to gain flexibility and climb like Ondra  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTalking about flexibility and that the top Japanese boulderers stretch four hours a day, we have asked Klaus Isele, MSc D.O. Physiotherapeut and Osteopath of the Austria National Climbing Team and Adam Ondra, for some advice.

Adam has been stretching systematically since he was a kid and is probably the top climber with most flexibility, which is part of his success. The picture is taken during the stretching preparation just some minutes before Ondra did the world's first 9c, Silence in Flatanger.

"If it’s the case that you always fall off your slab project just because your hips can’t stay close enough to the wall stretching exercises could maybe help. If you do proper stretching you might achieve your goals faster and better. Bodyweight and stretching have something in common. You might not have the perfect bodyweight for climbing. Nature puts you somewhere but with some effort you can gain or loose some kilograms.

What I still monitor is that some climbers believe that it is enough to stretch for 40 seconds in order to get “longer” = forget it. You need to hold a stretching position for two minutes (I often recommend three times the same position with that holding time). That works! To really gain length you have to repeat it every day. Your results will be visible after approximately 14 days. Afterwards depending on what you want to achieve keep going. If you’ve forgotten to stretch one day, you are thrown back for about four days, especially at the beginning. The so called hysteresis phenomenon is the base of this, if you want you can say that it is the “supercompensation” of stretching.

Conclusion:
There is no wrong or right stretching, it just depends on what you wanna achieve with it. If you prepare yourself for climbing it might be sufficient for you to stretch for 30 seconds. But if you are really interested in gaining length in some muscular areas then you need to work on every section for two minutes in every stretching position."

 
 
Anna Stöhr doing 8B+ and 8B  Facebook
 

 
 
Ingo Filzwieser explains the Japanese boulder domination  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIngo Filzwieser has been an Austria Bouldering Coach the last seven years. He finished with a training camp in Tokyo last December which made great impressions. On the picture from Mumbai last year, Ingo is standing next to Jakob Schubert, one of the few Europeans that could challenge the Japanese boulderes last year. In the WC 2017, there were five male Japaneses among the Top-8.

- There are some 200 boulder gyms in Tokyo and they run them with 12 levels of difficulty including some much harder than in Austria. The gyms have more different types of holds and volumes, even European ones, that I see in Austria. Rei Sugimoto (#6 in the WC 2017) was working on one where he could not do the single moves, then three local guys come along topping out. I think the Japanese domination will continue.

You have so many dedicated guys that see bouldering as a way to get away from their hard working life and enjoy a bit of travelling and competing at the top level. Many seems to train eight hours straight like 5 days a week. They start by stretching for two hours, followed by doing hard boulders for two hours, which they later repeat once.

It is hard for us to understand how they can continue this regime and still seem to be like children just playing around. I guess you can only understand their success if you fully understand their culture with team thinking, humbleness at the same time they are very goal oriented, hard working and pleased. Often they have coaches filming their tries or simulation of a competition which they later analyse together.

My motto is that you can not train like the last winner... you have to train like the next winner. (We will follow up with Ingo's thoughts on this.)

 
 
8B+ again by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her fourth 8B+, Penrose Step in Leavenworth. "AMAZING!!! Revenge after getting robbed a year ago when I fell off the very end and then the rain came in. It went down second day this trip and I tried it I think 2 days last time. So took 4 maybe 5 days in total split over the two trips. What an AWESOME line!!! :)" (c) Joel Zerr

In the 8a ranking game she is #17 among the guys which is the highest any female has had since we started with the scorecard in 2000. The runner up in the World Championship in 2014 is listed to do the first World Cup in Meiringen the next weekend.

"I’m actually not doing the first 2 world cups anymore. This was a last minute decision. I decided that since I’m going to go to Europe this summer/ fall for 3 months to basically do Lead WC’s and Boulder WC with World Champs and others competitions on top of that. I also didn’t feel 100% prepared to try and win a WC yet and during/after our Lead Nationals I was and still am dealing with a couple little finger injuries. They seem to feel a lot better on rock which is nice! I will be in Vail WC for sure and then a TON of comps all the ways till December after that!

If I didn’t take care of my body now and take a break from indoor climbing I would really feel it later this year! A break now and then is really needed and I’m not only a indoor/ competition climber. I would go crazy if all I did was competitions still."

 
 
70m 9a+/b FA by Seb Bouin  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin reports that he has done the 70 m long and 20 year old project Eyes bigger than the cave, with "amazing boulders problems on the top", where he fell four times.

"<>If I compare this route with other I did or try, I can porpose 9a+/b. I think it's harder than Chilam Balam (9a+/9b) and Pachamama (hard 9a+, proposed 9a+/9b by Patxi Usobiaga).

The first roof part is around 20-25 meters. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope. Then you have a bouldery crux on one finger pocket to reach an other rest. Until here it could be 8c route. Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after there is 7A boulder + 7A boulder + 7C+/8A boulder + 7B boulder. All these boulders problems are amazing."

 
 
9a by Alberto Gines Lopez (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlberto Gines Lopez, runner up in the last Youth World Championship, jumps from 8c to 9a by doing Víctimes del Futur in Margalef. (c) Mario Martinez Munoz

"I spent the last week climbing in Margalef. My first intention was to try some hard routes and to make some on-sight ascents. I started in the Sector called Racó de la Finestra with the purpose of trying some routes, as I said, on-sight, but, finally, I changed my mind and decided to try some more demanding project because I was feeling fit. With the new Margalef guide by Vicent Palau, I chose Victimes del Futur (9a). From the beginning I started very motivated because I really had very good sensations.

After the first attempt, I talked to Vicent and he explained to me that when the route was initially equipped by Jordi Pou it was set as 8c +. But it seems that some holds had been broken in the crux and after the last ascents (one of them by Alex Megos) they decided to change it to 9a. In the next two days I continued trying it. The sensations were still very good and finally, on the third day of trying, I sent it."

 
Leo Skinner

fat cat roof 7c/v9
 
Dante Quartermain

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Amanda Berezowski (f)

Slow dance 7c+, Bishop
 
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Boulder "Limão - V9"
 
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Debut les Morts, Galati
ani, Kalymnos
 
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Cassy 6a+, Rocklands
 
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Indigo 7b, Lumignano
 
Climb in Kymi

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gekko 8b, hiei
 
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badgers in the mist 7C
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TNF Master de Boulder 2
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DER Wasserfall in Steeg
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roof warrior
 
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Tufa Luna 7c+, El salto
 
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Croveo le momo 8a
 
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Armagedon 7c+, Gruta da
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Zangerl and Larcher trad on bolts up to 8c  Facebook
 
Moscow prediction  Facebook
The easiest way to predict the Bouldering WC in Moscow, which starts tomorrow, would of course be to just copy the Meiringen results. Another possibility is to calculate the finalist based on the total result from the qually and the semifinal, from the two groups respectively. Beside that, we should look out for the Japaneses and especially Kokoro Fujii. Bear in mind also that the Japaneses are the only team that go all in also in Speed where the qualification is just right before the Bouldering final.

1. Yuji Fuyiwaki JPN 78 (7 Tops and 8 zones)
2. Aleksei Rubtsov RUS/Tomoa Narasaki JPN 67

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 89
2. Tomoaki Nakati JPN 79
3. Jongwon Chon KOR 78

1. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 79
2. Janja Garnbret SLO 78
3. Stasa Gejo STB 58

1. Miho Nonaka JPN/Sandra Lettner AUT 69
3. Fanny Gibert FRA/Jessica Pilz AUT 58
 
Rule change for starting in Bouldering  (2) Facebook
IFSC has published some 2018 rule changes with the most important is how to start in Bouldering.

"The competitor must pass through a stable position before moving.

In practice this means you can not just tap your foot against a starting hold before moving. Instead you need to place the foot there and remain in a "stable position" which might be 0.5 seconds or so. If you just tap the hold, the referee should stop the climber.
 
Worse friction for the semi winner  (11) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureInnsbruck 2018 has published an interesting Meiringen analyses talking about technical skill adapting to different types of challenges, carried out by Udo Neuman. As the route setters will be the same in the WCH in Innsbruck 2018, important lessons have to be learnt. Udo also points out the problem with the conditions deteriorating which in practice means that the better result you had in the semi, the worse friction you will get in the final.

On the first problem, that can be seen in the picture, the first three guys did it at the same time the four last guys, and higher ranked in the semi, failed.

"Once someone has slipped off a foothold twice, the risk of slipping again increases dramatically. This also had a big influence on the result in Meiringen." Video of last man out, Jakob Schubert, slipping from that big yellow hold.

Udo also says, "It can only be hoped that a more level playing field will be made available in the future.". IFSC comp stats since 2007, confirms that the semi winner seldom actually wins the final and this is especially true for the WCHs. Other reasons for this is of course, the increased pressure starting last out, having heard that other guys topped and also that plastic holds and the whole arena get slightly heated up from the first to the last climber.
 
Olympic time intervals and starting order  Facebook
The document published below did include some info that was not correct when it comes to the Time in between the disciplines in the Olympics. Here are the official 2018 rules which we also have confirmed with IFSC.

"The Qualification round of the Combined event shall be organised such that:
15.1.5.1 Each competitor shall have a minimum [30] minutes recovery period between their last attempt in the Speed competition and the start of their attempts in the Boulder competition following; and
15.1.5.2 Each competitor shall have a minimum [120] minutes recovery period between their last attempt in the Boulder competition and the start of their attempt in the Lead competition following. where each of the Qualification and Final rounds will combine competitions in the Speed discipline, the Boulder discipline and Lead discipline in that order."

15.1.6 The Final round of the Combined event shall be organised such that:
15.1.6.1 Each competitor shall have a minimum [15] minutes recovery period between their last attempt in the Speed competition and the start of their attempts in the Boulder competition following; and
15.1.6.2 Each competitor shall have a minimum [15] minutes recovery period between their last attempt in the Boulder competition and the start of their attempt in the Lead competition following.

When it comes to starting order, the highest ranked competitor should start last in all three disciplines. In the finals, the highest ranked, after each discipline, should start last.

In practice this means that there could be an advantage to qualify to the Olympics as #20 as this means you will start first with fresh holds in Bouldering and the contrary applies for the #1 qualified. The starting order is based on the Seeding, i.e. who qualify first and in which position.

During the final, the ranking in bouldering might be most important as a better result will give you longer resting time before Lead. IFSC has stipulated a min of 15 min rest in between disciplines, and if so, the highest ranked climber could remain with instead 40 - 60 min rest.

Another consequence is that a poor result in Speed during the final might not be so bad as this means, you will save more energy skipping two Speed runs, starting first in Bouldering and getting longer rest before Lead. Imagine Adam Ondra, could be last in Speed, starting first in Bouldering which he wins, will give him the longest rest before Lead.

It should be mentioned that we have commented the min 15 minutes rule with IFSC and they have answered that it is just a minimum and that there probably will be longer time in between the disciplines during the final. One problem to face is also when to do the route reading which in itself is like a 10 min procedure. It will be rather complicated to do all route reading before starting the Speed event. On the other hand, it is probably the broadcaster who will decide what type of interval in between the disciplines is best for the million television audience.
 
Celebration puts pressure on the opponets  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureNiklas Held, working as a route setter, has published a video analyses from the WC in Meiringen. Interesting is his comments in regards that Jernej Kruder, with his big celebration of boulder #1, heated up the spectators and sending the message, including putting more pressure, to his opponents. (c) Eddie Fowke

It should be mentioned that Jernej is known for his big celebration and happy face and it comes just natural for him. However, for others who just quietly walks off the stage after sending, such celebration could be a clever move as Niklas points out. You could imagine that sitting in the isolation listening to the crowd go wild will create some extra pressure. Possibly this could beside the friction also partly explain why the #6 ranked in the semifinal, so often get much better results in the final.
 
7C+ no feet by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 
Olympics qualifications etc  (9) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven has published the Olympic format and the qualification procedure which already has been discussed on 8a. It has been confirmed with IFSC that Japan can only participate with max two athletes even if they have a host selection. Here are two issues that should be mentioned.

As max one Japanese will be able to qualify from the Combined WCH 2019, possibly it will be good enough to be Top-10 to get the Olympic ticket for the non-Japaneses. During the special qualifying event, it might be that among the male, it is likely that due to the country quota and the strong Japanese team, 15 - 20 (all) will make it through to Tokyo.

In theory you could end up in a case where even the #21 in the Combined WC 2019 gets an automatic ticket to the Olympics, i.e: 7 from WCH + 8 quota limitations. This means only five from the special event can be selected even if there are six available spots. Further more, it just might be that it is good enough to be Top-10 in both Europe and Asia Champ to get the Olympic ticket.

It should be noted that the 15 minutes break in between each discipline reported is not correct. In the finals it is a minimum of 15 minutes and in the qually it is a minimum of 30 min before the Bouldering and 120 min before the Lead.
 
The bouldering boom continues in Moscow  Facebook
121 male and 104 female are registered to compete in the Boulder World Cup in Moscow this weekend, which can be compared with 60 respectively 37 participated in their last WC in 2010. The increased number of competitors is great for our sport at the same time in creates problems like very long isolation and also difficulties to separate the athletes in the qualifications.

In Meiringen, with superb semis and finales, several athletes had to wait 7+ hours in the Iso in the qualification. Further more, 32 male out of 54 in Group 1 did score 2 boulders and in the other group, 17 did top all five boulders.

One solution could be to reduce the number of athletes for each country at the same time to increase the number of extra athletes per country based on World Cup points etc. Another solution is to add one zone which would reduce ties and which would make it possible to make the boulders slightly harder if needed.
 
Kruder's amazing quintuple dyno  Facebook
 

Rodolphe Sturm
Banane Nonne 8a, Khamouane, Laos

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