Moritz Welt has done his 13th 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. This was also his 8c and harder #100.
"My main goal for this trip, already some tries back in 2017, luckily only three sessions this time. One of the best I've done so far, various hard moves and lots of styles combined in one route!" (c) Miro Enze
Could you please describe the route
It is about 25m long with about 10m in horizontal roof. I made 3 kneebars but I think even more would be possible. There is actually a second pitch bolted which could possibly add another 8c or 8c+ and make it a 50m cave climb... maybe someone should try that in the future :) The extension has been done from Troja 8a as Couch Surfing 8c+.
What is next?
So it's my last week here and I have one more hard project (Sanski Par 9a) ready for some tries. But I also want to enjoy some easier holiday climbing on my last days :)
Martina Demmel continues to deliver in Oliana with a second go of Paper Mullat 8b+ and a fourth go of La Morenita 8c+. In total the 19-year-old has during the last two weeks done 30 routes in Oliana and she is a superior #1 among the girls. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca
"Overhanging slab after already getting destroyed in "Marroncita" 8b the first 30 meters without a proper rest to recover before hitting the extension! Unique one move wonder for me with a brutal but amazing shoulder move:) fell twice there not being pumped at all but just a little bit of body tension was missing what made me even happier to send it the next day, 4th try! The last missing piece to start trying my luck on "Joe-cita":)"
How can you explain being in your best shape ever and how is that feeling?
It's still hard to believe for me because it feels like I'm climbing the same way like a year ago but maybe this now is the result of trying lots of different styles over the past few years which helps me with finding my own perfect beta pretty fast😉 but that's just guessing who knows there are so many factors which are playing a part of that especially mentally🙈
Nico Pelorson explains and shows most of the moves of Soudain Seul which he did this weekend suggesting 8C+. There is a second video coming up with the send.
Fanatic Climbing have made an interview with Nico Pelorson after his send of Soudain Seul, aka The Big Island sit, where he says he also used a book under his kneepad and that grade-wise, 8C+ feels more consistent. "This is only my opinion and I respect Simon’s one too. Especially since it is not impossible that he had to give it even more effort with his beta for shorter climbers." Nico is 173 cm and FA Simon Lorenzi is 168 cm.
(c) Arthur Delicque
Talking to Simon, he says it is cool that Nico also used a book and tells 8a that they partly used different sequences."For me we have to wait for more ascensions to decide the grade. Nico and I didn't try yet other boulders in this style and difficulty so it's hard to tell where is the truth, I think."
In the interview, Nico says he started working on it in 2019 and that he has been working it hard the two last winters. "At first, I was doing about 2 sessions per week on the boulder, with training sessions in between. Towards the end, between sessions I was working on my physiotherapy end-of-study internship in a rehabilitation center."
Andy "Peter" Lamb has made his second 8B flash, Butterfly effect in Clear Creek Canyon. "For both Blackout and Butterfly Effect, I watched videos of other people, and they looked like a style that would fit me well, and pretty straightforward, so I thought I should give it a good first try. On Blackout, I went there once before the day I tried it to look at the holds. I didn't do that much special preparation for them otherwise, just made sure I was warmed up well, the holds were brushed and ticked, and I knew the sequence I'd try.
Also, Butterfly Effect is a pretty new climb. Everyone else that did it said it was around 8b, but I don't know what the final consensus would be."
Mathieu Bouyoud has done his 9a #25, Le Cadafist 9a in St Legér. It was bolted by Guillaume Lebret and Gérôme Pouvreau made the FA. The name come from the risk of hitting "Le Cade" which is the name of the tree, in the picture, in French. Up to the tree it is a short 8a which is hard to avoid so normally you end up sitting on it. Then the route just gets harder and harder. "Finally the top sequence is done. Superb impressive line."
Mathieu said he worked the route for two weeks and that he fell at the very top a couple of times. He is working full-time construction climbing gyms in France as well as running a family. The somewhat under-the-radar 31-year-old has also onsighted 81 routes between 8b to 8c.
Will Bosi, who has been in Spain since December, has done the FA of King Capella 9b+ in Siurana, bolted by David Brasco. In total it took ten sessions. On this trip he also did the FA of La Furia de Jabali 9b (bolted by Beto Rocasolano) and Last Night 9a (bolted by Dani Andrada), in the same area.
“King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella (9b, last March), whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella. “With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big all points off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma for a day, it was amazing!
After Moscow [European Championships and last Olympic qualification], the purpose of the training trip was to firstly reset after a long and tough Olympic campaign and secondly to put in a base level preparation for the upcoming IFSC World Cup lead season. Spain as the some of the highest concentration of hard sport climbing and I was also able to project first ascents in order to force myself to try unconventional beta to solve hard problems which is similar to what appears in World Cups.”
Alex Megos comments"I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."
On top of Will’s first ascents, he amassed a staggering tick list with notable repeats including First Ley 9a+, Ley Indignata 9a and Estadio Critico 9a. Will kept his bouldering in check with establishing a new 8C boulder in Siurana (cleaned by Dave Graham) as well as repeating Bhai Bon 8B+, Bhai Po 8B+, Bhai Kakata 8B+/C and Bhai Ji 8B+.
Overall, only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, in the history of climbing have made such amazing comparable tick lists on a climbing trip. In Moscow, Bosi qualified to the final as #3 after having won in Bouldering and in the final he was #8.
Nico Pelorson reports on Insta that he has done the second ascent of Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul 9a in Fontainebleau. No grade comment by the 23-year-old who previously has done the second ascent of another 9A, No Kpote only giving it 8C as his personal grade. (c) Denis Si
Nico did The Big Island 8C, the stand start of Soudain Seul, in 2018 and has been working it from the sit during this winter. He has previously done more than a handful 9a's and previously commented to 8a, "I prefer route climbing but maybe I am a better boulderer."
Lucie Hrozová has done her second 8A+ in Petrohrad in just a week,
Ramínka v prázdný skříni, and this time it just took 40 min. It was put up by Rosta Stefanek and has been repeated a handful of times. " I was so surprised :D, I even had not tried or cleaned the upper part. I didn't plan to go to the top, but it is only hard first moves and since I did the start I was like okay, I will try to climb it to the top 😅."
The 14 times Ice WC medalist does not want to comment and says, "I also stop writing hard or soft because I really just don't want to think so much about grades and analyse that much ;) but for me personally obviously relatively easy."
Martina Demmel continues her rampage in Oliana by onsighting her first 8b+, Los Humildes pa casa. The almost 50 m classic was put up by Dani Andrada in 2004 as an 8c. All 43 individuals who have star marked the route have given it five stars. "No words for how much this means to me! Feels so crazy good when everything luckily works out perfectly during that only ONE chance:) especially on such a tufa kingline with tons of kneebars! The pump almost threw me off on the final slab... Thx Blondi for cheering me up to fulfil a little dream:)"
Then one hour later, the 19-year-old redpointed another Oliana 50 meter stunner, Joe Blau, on her third go. It was bolted by Joe Kinder, and none out of the 29 recorded ascents have marked it as soft. "Seems like once the sending train is rolling, it's not that easy to stop again;) This was literally one of the most unexpected sends ever by still being pumped from the onsight an hour before but therefore I had the right commitment and flow in my movements! Mostly about getting through the resistance lower half but mentally it just starts there and isn't over till you survived the top slab! 3rd try in total but the first real attempt from the ground after sticking the jump! What a surreal day!!!"
Martina, who started climbing in 2017, first appeared on 8a one year ago with the headline Amazing progress via onsight and outdoor focus. "In spring 2018, I had enough of these dusty gyms and since then I'm only climbing on rock. I only climb on rock, I don't do any other training for power or endurance. But I do a lot of stretching every day which helps me pretty much especially because I'm quite small (1,57m)."
During the last year, she has recorded 858 ascents in total out of which 70% onsight. Last year she was the first female in the 8a history who was #1 in a ranking game. Today, she is totally superior in the Top-50 onsight ranking game. Noteworthy is that the only other climber showing such an onsight focus on 8a is Adam Ondra in an interview in 2004 being 11-years-old.
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