9 May 2024
Amandine Loury onsights 8b and redpoints 8c in Margalef
Amandine Loury has onsighted Elleanor (8b) and redpointed Fin del Conflicto (8c), both in Margalef. In the 8a ranking game, the 34-year-old is #6. (c) Jean-luc Jeunet
โ A friend told me that it was maybe possible to onsight Elleanor. At the begining I thought it was too hard. After the send of Canto a la Libertad, I felt very well and I was not pumped. So I thougt, finally maybe itโs possible to try Elleanor onsight. I had very good feeling, it was crazy!
Fin del Conflicto is a route that I tried in October, but I had fallen in the middle section completely pumped. This time I took just two tries to remember the movement, and just two days just before leaving Margalef, I did a try and I went to the top. Fin del Conflicto is a very beautiful route bolted by O. Jimenez and Dani Andrada. There are three sections. The first is the most difficult on small pockets. The second is very very nice on crimps and tufas and the last is stressfull because itโs again difficult on tufas and pockets.โ
โ A friend told me that it was maybe possible to onsight Elleanor. At the begining I thought it was too hard. After the send of Canto a la Libertad, I felt very well and I was not pumped. So I thougt, finally maybe itโs possible to try Elleanor onsight. I had very good feeling, it was crazy!
Fin del Conflicto is a route that I tried in October, but I had fallen in the middle section completely pumped. This time I took just two tries to remember the movement, and just two days just before leaving Margalef, I did a try and I went to the top. Fin del Conflicto is a very beautiful route bolted by O. Jimenez and Dani Andrada. There are three sections. The first is the most difficult on small pockets. The second is very very nice on crimps and tufas and the last is stressfull because itโs again difficult on tufas and pockets.โ
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