Simone Tentori has had his best week ever sending two 8C’s in Cresciano; The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) and Crystal Ship (8C). Previously the 26-year-old has done five 8C’s since 2021.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
Crystal ship was definitely the main goal. Pretty easy intro and then basically 2 move crux that make the problem. On my first session I flashed the last move to the juggy-lip but I was stuck on the high foot lock off to get the slopy sidepull for two more sessions. The tiny holds are sharp and allowed me less than 10 tries each session. On my 4th session I finally realized that was better for me to commit to the low foot beta that make the reach to the sidepull way easier but harder to set up the last move with the crux probably on a foot move😂. 5th session I was abale to send with the support of my girlfriend who was there filming, spotting and moving the light for me (special thanks!)

Story was a completely different story. After my ascent of the dagger in 2017 I came back there multiple times and once a year I found myself practicing the moves again with friends and checking the low start for curiosity, but never with a strong intent to make it a real project. This year was not different, I was there playing on the moves with friends but this time I felt so strong on the moves straight away. After 30 min I gave a try from the start and I fell in the middle of the Dagger still with no clear beta and clumsy climbing. So I decided it was time to close this chapter and 2 more sessions I was on top.

How can you explain your peak performance?
In the last few years I focus on quality rather than quantity, and I choose to try a lot of different hard boulders around my limit. That meant fewer ticks on the list but more experience on different difficult moves. Combined with structured training, it was the key!

Can you give us some details about your structured training?
Fundamental weightlifting exercises, finger board, legs training, board sessions, campus climbing. With on-the-wall training 70 to 90% of my volume depends on the phase.

I'm a professional climbing coach (@compass_coaching_climbing) and I dedicated a lot of time studying training but also training myself too. My training varies a lot through the year and the rock climbing phase. However, I can say that I'll keep things simple and try to be consistent, and a training plan definitely helps with that!

Alex Megos, who five days ago did the FA of Iker Pou’s On Egin (8c+) after only three tries, has made the FA of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+) in Margalef, bolted by Adrien Boulon. (c) Rainer Eder

The 31-year-old double Olympian has completed ten routes graded 9b or 9b+ and over 100 graded 9a or harder, including achieving the world’s first 9a onsight in 2012.

Can you tell us more about the trip and Tuareg Blanco?
Good start to the year. The trip paid off now 😅 I started working the route when we came to Margalef after Christmas and have pretty much been focusing only on that route. I didn't do anything else really and for about 10 days only worked the moves and sections.

Unfortunately that route required me to rest quite a bit, because it peeled off my skin so quickly that I couldn't hold on anymore. In the end I think I was giving it tries for 5 days until it happened today on the second try of the day. With a few beta changes along the way.

The challenge were small and sharp holds, no rest and no good holds for 20 moves and the crux at the end of the 20 moves. Tricky with the weather too. It's in full sun for the whole day to it was often too warm.

What is coming up next and what about World Cups in 2025?
Some training camps with the German team and some workshops at our gym 😅😂. I'll only do the European ones, if anything. I'll not fly to China or Japan or anywhere else.

Arlo Rogers, with six 8c+’ under his belt, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 35-meter classic gained fame as the world’s first 9a route to be onsighted, an achievement accomplished by Alex Megos in 2012. (c) Rob Knowles

Can you tell me us more about the ascent?
The route took me 9 sessions and I had 2 goes a session whilst trying some other bits onsight at the end of most days on it. When I first arrived in siurana the route was super busy! Dispite the ques being abit annoying, it was great sharing it with so many people and seeing them at the New Years party. After passing the crux on my 6th session, I fell off on the head wall a few times, and last move once before doing it just before the sun set on my last go of the day!

What about the new knee bar you mention on your Instagram?
Eder Lombar actually found the knee and mentioned it to me. It’s just after the two pockets on the head wall and gives a brief shake. For me even with this it felt harder than all the 8c+’s I have done, including a couple of which get 8c+/9a like Caban au Canada.

What is your climbing background and what are your plans for 2025?
Started climbing around 10 years ago at my local wall (Warwick). I started trad climbing outside not long after with trips from the wall and got really in to this, when I was abit older I started to get the train up to the Peak District to get out at much as I could. When i could drive at 17 i started sport climbing outside a lot more and climbed my first 8a this year in 2020. Since then whilst in school, studdying dietetics at Cardiff met I have been going on trips when I can, whilst also doing route setting and climbing coaching on the side.

This year I hope to climb Seleccio Natural (9a). I tried this last year for 2 weeks, I was sleeping in a bivvi bag in the car park and got very ill so hopefully Il finish that! I also hope to climb more in South Wales where I am studying, I am trying a couple of routes I bolted on the sea cliffs, and hope to do more onsight trad climbing in Pembroke. I also hope To climb in Flatanger this summer and try many of the classics there!

Stefano Folgarait, with ten 8c+’ and 9a’s under his belt, has done Biologico (9a) in Arco . (c) Oskar Toucha

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the pitch for the first time about four years ago. At first, I worked on it inconsistently and sporadically, about once every two months. However, in the past month, I started trying it with much more perseverance.

The route is divided into two sections. The first includes a boulder with a beautiful two-handed dyno graded 8a, very physical, followed by a knee bar. The second section consists of a 7c+ boulder problem, which suits me much better. Once past that, the route becomes more climbable. Completing this route was incredibly satisfying—a mix of happiness and gratitude, especially because I was able to share so many special moments with friends who made the experience even more memorable.

How come you have not sent any 8c+ or 9a for over 2.5 years?
In recent years, I have focused on other sports activities such as ski mountaineering, freediving, and trail running. I also had two minor injuries that slowed down my progress. Nevertheless, I have continued working on some projects, both near Arco and at my local crag in Potrich. In total, I have been projecting for some 40 days. Among them, there is a potential 9a+ that I am still working on. It’s a challenging project… I can’t wait to complete it!

Eloi Loren