Amandine Loury does L'étrave (8c)

Amandine Loury, who earlier in 2024 did her second 8c+, has done L'étrave (8c) in Saint Léger and Rest in Beast (8b+) in Buoux. In the VL ranking game, the 34-year-old is #4.

Can you tell us more about the 8c?
L’étrave is a very beautiful and various line in Praniania sector. It’s the direct start of La Trav vers l’étrave 8b+ that I send in 2020. The start of L'étrave is very powerfull with long moves and hooks. Just after there is a beautiful pumpy section before a good rest and to finish there is a hard and mental section with crimp on a vertical wall. So I was happy to not fall in this last part, because I was not sure to send again the start.

Olivia Ma ticks Lethal Design (8A+)

Olivia Ma, who last month got the silver in the Pan American Lead Championship, has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Gateway Canyon.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
As far as boulders go, this one’s pretty up my alley— I’m more of a sport climber, so it was nice to put my power endurance to use. The tricky part for me was managing my skin and energy, since I had a short trip and it’s a long climb. It took me most of my first session to tinker through my beta, so my tank was running low by the time I started giving goes. I was psyched to send it first ground go the next day. It felt really nice to finish up Lethal, it has some movement I’ll keep with me for a while. And it’s my first of the grade!

What is your climbing background?
I grew up mainly as an indoor comp kid in New Jersey, but I’ve been lucky to have gotten some good time outdoors, especially in my early teens (thanks mom). It’s been busier for me since I started competing in multiple circuits, especially when I started applying to and attending college. But now that I’ve graduated from youth I think I’ll have more choosing room. I’m excited for that!

Kiersch shares her story to be first

Michaela Kiersch is the first woman to have reached both 8C and 9a+. At age 15, she was #22 in her Boulder World Cup debut in 2010 and the next year she was #18…

"The film showcases Shauna's bouldering year, featuring significant ascents including Hazel Grace (8B+/V14) in Gotthard Pass, The Boss (8B+/V14) in Yarncliffe, Peak District, and Fotofobia (8B+/V14) in La Pedriza, Spain. It also offers insight into how Shauna manages her career as a professional cli…

Colin Duffy has repeated Daniel Woods’ Defying Gravity (8C) at Thunder Ridge. ”Woah. This climb fits my style better than anything I've ever tried. Feels incredible to take down one of my dream boulders!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’ve wanted to try DG for a long time, and to finally stand under the striking line was incredibly exciting. I decided from the start I would use Noah Wheeler’s campus method, as I’m most in control when campusing. I was able to get close within a few goes and finally stuck the first move on my 6th attempt. I ended up falling on the second jump on this attempt, but two goes later I was standing on top of the boulder. I definitely plan on trying the sit start [8C+ project] in the future!

Eli Perry completes Sound of Violence (8C)

Eli Perry, who did first 8A only two years ago, has done Sound of Violence (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). Yesterday, we reported about his brother Miles, having done a 9a FA.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Yeah for sure, I’d been putting a lot of time in on the right exit, Pegasus and was getting really close but it started getting pretty cold in joes so I was constantly numbing out on the last couple moves. Sounds of violence is the left exit and is a few moves less than Pegasus so I figured it would be good to work on while it’s cold. I did the stand, sound of silence, which turned out to be a lot more in my style than the right exit and with the bottom moves already being pretty dialed in from my time on Pegasus I managed to get it done pretty quick. The day I sent it was only 23 degrees [-5 celsius] there were icicles hanging on the side of the Boulder, snow all over the ground but luckily the Boulder was dry and got it done first try of the day!

I would like to finish up Pegasus here pretty soon before it gets too cold and I’m also trying to go to Rocklands this summer so I’m going to be working a lot to save up for that. I’ll be doing less outdoor climbing and mostly training in the gym to get ready for my spring projects.

What is your climbing background?
My dad is a climber so I grew up around the sport, he would get us out every once in a while but I never got super psyched on it until about 4 years ago when I turned 15 and I did my first lead 5.10 and V3 Boulder outside, then I started going super consistently and got way into it. It’s great to have a brother that is also way into climbing, we climb all the time together and he helps push me to climb harder. We also work on the same climbs a lot which helps push both of us a makes the whole process way more enjoyable.

How does a normal training week look like?
I’ll be doing two days on one day off, first day just projecting on either the kilter or tension board and then second day I’ll be doing gym sets and then doing endurance training on the spray wall, core workouts, and do a little bit of lifting.

Mikel Linacisoro does Estado Critico (9a)

Mikel Linacisoro, who did his first 8c+ at age 13, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana and onsighted Gaur zortzi (8b+) in Mugarra. The 24-year-old frequently made VL/8a headlines as a teenager and his third and last 9a he sent almost 2.5 years ago. (c) Javi Pec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route like 2 years ago and already know all the moves and sequences. One month ago I moved to Catalunya, now I’m living here. So I decided to go and try it again last weekend and already fell on the last moves... and this weekend I went again and I climbed it 💪🏼😁

Can you tell us more about the comeback to the 9a scene?
Well.. there is no "comeback to climbing", hahaha, but last years I have been climbing much less in rocks becouse of the university, and I was mostly climbing indoors and competing with the spanish team. Now that I finished the university, I have time to climb a lot, so I moved to Barcelona and I’m training here with David (Albertos Gines Lopez coach), Alberto, and the rest of the team. During the week we train in the gym, and on weekends we climb outside! So now I hope to be back on 9a game much more hahaha.

What are your winter and 2025 years plan?
My plan for the winter and 2025 is to continue training hard during the week, and climbing on rocks in the weekends! I decided to stop bouldering competitions this year, so I can focus much more on lead/rocks... I want to compete on the Lead World Cup 2025 also, so it will be a mixed season between plastic and rocks. But its the first time that I’m focused 100% climbing and I’m looking fordward to see what we can do. One month of trainings here and I’m back in the 9a grade and 8b+ onsight, so I’m very happy and motivated for the season!!

What did you study and what about work?
I studied medicine, its my other passion in live haha climbing and medicine. Now I decided not to work and study anymore, because its impossible to share work in the hospital and climbing at my 100%. So it will be 2-3 years focus on climbing (we will see how much time, depending motivation and money for living haha) and then I will be back to medicine and back to work and 📚.