Kathy Choong has sent the 300 metres Zahir (8b+) at wendenstöcke, in “eco-point” style reaching the crag by bike, together with Eline Le Menestral. The 32-year-old is a former competition climber with two 9a’s and several other hard MP’s up to 8b+ under her belt. (c) Julien Nadiras

“What a day! On September 2, we woke up at 3:50 am and started climbing around 6:15 am. I felt fresh in the 2 first pitches (6c, 8a). Then on my 2 first goes in the 3rd pitch (8b+), I fell in the crux section. The sun was already hitting the wall but I knew that it could be my last chance as our trip was coming to an end and the weather looked unstable for the next days, the pressure was on my side. On my 3rd attempt, I gave everything, passed the crux section, fought super hard, climbed the 2nd crux…and fell at the very last move just below the anchor.

I was so disappointed to fall so close to the top and with a fingersplit, the situation looked desperate and very dramatic. But somehow, something clicked in my mind and I knew I could do it, no matter the circumstances! I took a rest and at 12:30 pm I went for a very last go. My fingertip was bleeding (not ideal on those tiny little crimps), I was climbing in full sun but I felt confident. Eline was cheering so much, I felt her energy coming to me, I fought really hard on each move, almost fell again at the same last move but finally sticked the last hold and clipped the chains. I couldn’t believe what just happened. But it was not over, I still had 5 pitches (7c, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 6c and not the easiest one in term of run-outs) before the top with no more skin nor energy. Fortunately I could send the last pitches and we made it to the top at 6 pm. At 9:50 pm, we were back at the parking lot, exhausted but with a big smile on our face.

Eline also tried really hard, she was close to send the 8a and made promising attempts in the 8b+. She was definitely the best supportive partner I could have wished for, nothing would have been possible without her!”

Alex Megos, who two weeks ago did Change (9b+) in just five sessions, reports on Instagram that he has completed Move (9b) in Flatanger. Megos suggests 9b/+ as also Seb Bouin did, doing the second ascent in 2019. On the same day, Alex also sent Illusionist (9a). (c) Henning Wang

"I climbed both routes with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to @adam.ondra for making the FA's of those routes without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago 🙌🏼. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion."

What was the key for the send and how many sessions were needed?
This took 9 sessions. I had a very good day on the route on day 3, climbing all the hard part, starting almost from the ground. That was a little unexpected but suddenly I knew I could do it. But I also stopped refining my beta for a little bit. I'm the end I think the key to sending was to refine the beta a little more and to learn how to recover on the shake outs.