Buster Martin, who this spring sent two 9a+’, has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. Alex Megos did the FA in 2016 and two years later, Adam Ondra flashed the popular line. (c) William Barselo
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route suited me well, but the biggest challenge was finding good conditions—it needs that sweet spot where it’s cold enough for the crimps but not so cold that you numb out. After falling a few times on the final move, I finally got a perfect weather window, and everything just came together.
This ascent was a reminder of how much patience and solid tactics matter when projecting. I’ve also been super inspired by friends and clients lately, which has brought a fresh energy to my climbing.
It’s been amazing to tick this iconic route, especially one that Adam Ondra famously flashed—it’s cool to share a connection with such a legendary climb.
I’ve made more sacrifice in my life over the last year or so and it’s really paid off.
What kind of sacrifice are we talking about?
I’ve mostly been more focused on my climbing! I’ve done little other than train, project and climb this year. A lot of what it takes to climb hard sports routes is patience and putting the time in at the crag, waiting for conditions, finding partners, being away from home for long periods of time.