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Another 8B+ FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Get better endurance by resting in the top jug  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

 
 
Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

 
 
Which is the best crash pad - 2018?  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

 
 
8C FA by Tamás Zupán  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star Wars film comes."

It was an old project close to the village where I live. It is a big roof. It is hard to climbing here because it is often wet. I tried for three years. I climbed a stand start version (the force awakens 8A+) last year. After I did a lot of training with weight vest on a big overhang. And now i managed to do it, so I'm very happy.

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Tomas Ravanal  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Ravanal has after some 25 sessions done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, video. In July 2016 he left Chile and has since been living in a van and also doing WCs with #14 as his best result.

"I have been climbing in Siurana for quite a long time, and after a did Estado Critico 9a, I only think of lL Rambla. I think the route suit me very good and I was working during two months . I did not climb every day and every session in La Rambla. I always tried to not give it so much importance until I realized it would be possible to climb it for me.

The last month I have been doing redpoint tries. For me it was a dream when i started climbing in 2005 with the video of Dani Andrada. Now I am 33 years old and I achieved one more dream and feeling like I am learning a whole new stile of climbing.

 
 
9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

 
 
9a FA by Harry Edwards (17)  Facebook
 

R & I reports about Harry Edwards having done the FA of Frequency 9a in at East Clear Creek. The first time Harry made 8a news was when he was 12 years old when he did several 8b+ and 8c. Later he stopped climbing completely for almost two years focusing on group singing/dancing performances.

 
 
8A again for Oriane Bertone (12)  (3) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done her 16th 8A, Nutsa in Rocklands where she also flashed Tea Garden Roof 7C. The 12 year old did her first 8A when she was 9 years old and last year she did her first two 8B's.

In order to escape the summer heat in Rocklands they boulder until 08.30 and after 19.00. This morning at 10 am 35 degrees reaching up to 45 during the day. The latest news is that she is super close to send Golden shadow 8B+! Videos are coming up.

 
 
9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

 
 
Shauna Coxsey Boulder WC winner 2017  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Loic Zehani (16) in Orgon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLoic Zehani, who previously has done eight 9a's, has done Fast and Furious which is a link up of an 8b start into an 8c+ in Orgon.

"It is a very resistant way (47 movements) with some hard clips. Very homogeneous and all the time very physical. The "Playmobils sector" is not the most beautiful place for climb in the world but there are some very nice hard ways to climb and also, to be honest, chipped holds."

 
 
Jonwong Chon 2017 highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
8c and more by Jessica Pilz and Hannah Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Hannah Schubert have spent some great days in Santa Linya where they both did Fabelita and several 8b's. (c) of Hannah by Andreas Aufschnaiter

Last year, Jessica (21) was #4 and Hannah (20) #10 in the Lead World Cup. Previously they are both double Lead Youth World Champions and they will both try to go to the Olympics and the same goes for Hannah's big brother Jakob.

 
 
Third 9b by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the very best competition climbers the last eight years, reports on Instagram that he has done Stoking the Fire 9b in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

 
 
8b+ onsight by Jorge Diaz-rullo (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Diaz-rullo has onsighted Falconetti 8b+ in Montsant and the 18 year old goes to #2 in the Combined 8a ranking game.

 
 
The Story of 2 Worlds 8C by Alex Khazanov  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Khazanov has done Dave Graham classic from 2005 The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano. The FA name referred to the grade inflation that was going on in the area and part of the reason why it stopped was this boulder that many have thought warranted 8C+. Now the pendulum has shifted and some say it is soft also because of new sequences have been found. Iddo Kolker

"A great way to start my 2018! One of my all time dream lines. Also managed to climb mithril with a wet top out, right after! The weather here in ticino is the worst I have experienced in Any of my climbing trips so far, rain, snow, fog, you name it. Fortunately there was one good day to used to my advantage, some times miracles do happen! Is it 8C(v15)? Perhaps, perhaps not, but who am I to judge? A small dream just came true!"

 
 
Beto Rocasolano doing 8B+/8C and 8C FA's  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
8C FA by Dai Koyamada (41)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who previously has done some 40 boulders 8B+ or harder, reports on Instagram that he started off 2018 by doing the FA of Gekirin 8C in Ryutosen. The 41 year old Japanese has been one of the top climbers in the world since he was #4 in a Lead World Cup in 1998.

 
Kamil Wójt

Pijus Magnificus 6b, Mo
ntesa
 
Gus Carter

They Call Him Jordan 7b
+/V8, Joe's Valley
 
Daisuke Ichimiya

Horizon 8c, hiei
 
Markus Adamaszek

Pilas Hacendado, Fb 7a
bloc, Albarracín
 
Jose Manuel Cano

Fugazzi 8a, Sant Lloren
ç del Munt
 
Moi Barea

tonsai ( tailandia ) ta
mtrum 8a+
 
Tj Ovesen

Yangshuo China, Yangshu
o Bang 8b+,Riverside
 
Leo Skinner

roof of a baby buddha 7
c+/v10
 
Marcel Reimann

Le Surplomb de la Coqui
lle assis (gauche) 7a,
Fontainebleau
 
Bastian Wagner

Grampians, Australia "T
ouchstone Pictures, 7c+
"
 
Claudia herrmann (f)

Aphrodite V7, Hollow Mo
untain Cave, Grampians
 
Christian Bortz

Bread Loaf Factory (V10
/7C+)
 
Heiko Queitsch

Good day with good frie
nds
 
Adrien Ruffie

Eclipse (Almenara style
) 7b, Albarracin
 
Michał Kwiatkowski

Queimada 8b+, Villanuev
a del Rosario
 
Andre Krause

Der König der Welt fb 7
c, Okertal
 
Eric Hörst

Jonathan Horst sending
He Biggum (13d), Ten Sl
eep
 
Mariana Fierro

Efecto mezcal 7b+, Dos
Bocas
 
Search & Add Ascents
Fabian Gomiz Lopez - El manso (sit) 7B villena
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Tarragona Climbs - New edition with App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTarragona in Catalonia, Northeast Spain, is one of those destinations a climber must know. Whether world class climber or ambitious amateur, sooner or later you should pick a project and go for it. Right on time for high season in the area, the new edition of „Tarragona Climbs“ with more than 3800 routes is now available.

Especially the content on the world-class zones such as Siurana, Montsant and Margalef has been considerably expanded compared to the previous edition. The guidebook is written by Pete O’Donovan in collaboration with Dani Andrada, who opened hundreds of routes in the area. For the first time, this guidebook is also available in the Vertical-Life App. The combination of printed book and digital content, that can be unlocked through a code inside the book, is available exclusively on orders via the Vertical-Life online shop.
 
How should Schubert's flash be reported?  (18) Facebook
Jakob Schubert's flash of Catalan Witness the Fitness got reported as 8B+ (C) by us, as all five repeaters who had done it before had called it 8C, Chris Sharma 8B+/8C but Jakob gave it low end 8B+.

Is it not strange that the other two big Euro websites did chose to report it as either 8B+ or 8C in both the headline as well as in the article. The media needs some kind of guidelines so we will stop misleading our readers. How do you think Schubert's flash should be reported.
 
Climb Fast then Stop - Repeat  Facebook
Eric Hörst has made some interesting analysis of Margo Hayes ascent of Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. From the video, it can be seen that she climbs the 30 m route in five intervals, around one minute of fast climbing followed by a rest in between one to three minutes.

This goes in line with old previous training articles here on 8a and also how Adam Ondra climbs. In practice, this means that you are going for an indoor onsight, you should try to climb very fast and then do full stop and rest every six meters or 45 seconds as you are probably not as fit as Hayes and Ondra.

In the video we can also see that Margo finishes off every session by first clipping and the start to rest. In theory, she could have saved some energy by actually first rest and midways in her resting, clipped the quick draw. This would have means shorter intervals with intense climbing and more time spent in a resting mode.
 
France Combined Nationals  Facebook
 
Social media vs Mental training  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureInstagram is a great communication tool but it can also create pressure that can be hard to handle. It might be wise for especially youngsters to not report/show of with good training and keep saying, on a daily basis, that everything is so good in order to get many likes, as this could build up anxiety. Sooner or later there is a competition coming up and what you have been saying on social media might feel like pressure.

On the other hand, if you are a very experienced and successful climber who will not loose your sponsors just because you fail once or twice, you can do as Jorg Verhoeven. Use social media to put pressure on yourself so you have to commit 100 %.

Some months ago, the World Cup winner 2008 who is a high class climber in all disciplines from bouldering to big-walls, declared that his goal is to do an 9b. If you do not have such a broad climbing background as Jorg, you better avoid such Instagram posts but I am sure it works for Jorg :)

"The idea is to come back in Febuary, and send in March (or even April) when conditions are prime. That means not a whole lot of training time left, but it for sure is possible. I feel like power endurance (20-40 moves) needs to increase, but also pure power (so that I'll need lees endurance). I put the odds at 75:25!"
 
Ondra is superior 9a and harder  (8) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThis diagram tries to show how superior Adam Ondra is when it comes to 9a and harder. We have given points for 9a to 9c based on a multiple of three which actually almost perfectly fits Ondra's grade pyramid. As grades are subjective and sometimes get down graded the scoring is somewhat speculative. On the other hand, Ondra is known to be the one using most frequent personal. Source is the 8a data base and escalade9.

It should be mentioned that if we were to make such a diagram for onsighting 8b and harder, Ondra would have been way more superior followed by Megos. At the same time as Ondra has onsighted 21 routes 8c+ and harder, the runner ups have at most onsighted four.
 
Durif explores Serbia  Facebook
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2018?  Facebook
For the 15th year in a row...

 
Zlagboard PRO chosen by EpicTV  Facebook
 
The most popular articles  Facebook
 


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