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9a+ in Rodellar by Piotr Schab  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ in Rodellar. "What a way to finish the trip! Extra extension, in my opinion makes a big difference. Super complicated route, to get to know all the tricks seems to be a crux. First ascent of this combination I guess."

8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 8c in 2016 being 11 years old, has done the fourth ascent of Szydercze zwierciadło 8c+ in Podzamcze. video

"It is very short - 5 quickdraws, and 12 cruxy moves on slopy mono holes, so it is quite hard to find the beta there. The holds were so bad, that I couldn't even use my chalk bag. But when the beta was finally found, i understood, that the hardest work is still undone. For example, I found the beta on the third day of climbing, and I climbed the route only on the 8-th day. It is due to the required accuracy of the moves. If i will put the leg a centimeter higher, I won't be able to do the move. And exactly the same situation happened with hands."

Pilz and Ghisolfi win another perfect show in Chamonix  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Stefano Ghisolfi were the only ones topping out the great final routes in Chamonix in front of 10 000 spectators. For Jessica it was her first WC victory after having been second six times. For Stefano, it was his fourth WC win. (C) Eddie Fowke

1. Jessica Pilz AUT - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
2. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
3. Jain Kim KOR - Alex Megos GER
Complete results.

Battle Cat 8c/+ by Sarah Kampf (37)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Kampf, who pre- viously has sent four 8c's, has done Battle Cat 8c/+ in Frankenjura after some 15 days of work. © Lars Decker

"Battle Cat is the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. The line is amazing and with its ca. 30 meters it is really uni- que for Fran- ken. It requi- res both endu- rance and max power, the single parts are pretty varied. Clipping the anchor of Battle Cat means a lot to me and I am very grateful for the people who supported this journey, it wouldn't have been possible without them."

How can you explain continuing being on your peak being 37 and with two small kids?
Hm, not quite sure, it is probably several reasons. I love climbing so much and I am really motivated. I have great climbers surrounding me who are inspiring me a lot. Furthermore, I am lucky to only work parttime which gives me time to train. And most important: I get awesome support by my husband. I don't follow a specific training regime but when time is too short to climb outdoors I often do some finger board training at home.

8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually  (11) Facebook

Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Anak Verhoeven and Akiyo Noguchi topped both qualification routes in Chamonix. Other then that, all big names but Max Rudigier #76 and Julia Chanourdie #32made it to the semi. Interesting is that eight male Japanese qualified Top-19 and among the female four made it to the semifinal. In total, 92 female and 111 male participated. Complete results

Chamonix quaification  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Lead WC in Chamonix has started. Updated results You can also stay updated through the IFSC Lead App. The semi and final tomorrow will be streamed 10.30 and 20.30. (c) Eddie Fowke

8C (B+) by Dave Graham in Rocklands  (2) Facebook

Dave Graham (36), one of the best climbers in the world since 1999, reports on Insta that he has done Daniel Woods' Noise vs Beauty suggestion an uppgrade to 8C in Rocklands. "After battling with this rig off and on last season it was my primary objective upon returning here in Rocklands; it was an intense mental and physical journey to persevere, stay focused, not get distracted by the plethora of new boulders to climb :), and stick that last sloper from the start."

9a (+) almost flashed by Adam Ondra  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has almost flashed Evan Hau's 45 meter Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon giving it a personal grade of 9a. First he fell by the 4th bolt due to a wet hold. "I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go." (c) Sonnie Trotter

In February, Adam flashed and confirmed 9a+ for Super Crackinette. In 2012, he also flashed a 9a+ but suggested a personal down grade as he did with his first 9a onsight. Adam is well known for being honest giving personal grades that are later confirmed. In total Adam has now done some 200 routes originally graded 9a and harder out of which 182, he has taken 9a credit for.

Babsi Zangerl doing Speed Integrale 9a  Facebook

8A+' by Alizée Dufraisse in Rocklands  Facebook

Alizée Dufraisse has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Lèopard cave and Law and Order 8A+. "I will be here the whole summer. I have some hard projects that I tried last year.

Still few warm up properly  Facebook

Based on 1 000+ unique votes to, Warming-up before climbing?, with the 2014 results in brackets, we can see that still few warm up properly. This is quite interesting as often when a training article is published, the authors often underline that proper warming up is important.

06 % NO: Full power directly (4)
28 % NO: Only easy climbing (28)
14 % Sometimes/Few minutes (15)
16 % Often/8 minutes (19)
37 % YES: At least 15 min (34)

First 8C for Thilo Schröter  (2) Facebook

Thilo Schröter, #11 in Moscow Boulder WC in 2018, has done his first 8C, Spray of Light in Rocklands which was put up by Daniel Woods.

Garnbret and Schubert win in Villars  (15) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret looked surperior like last year and cruised the route to the last move going double dyno. Among the male, Jakob Schubert won his 20-iest WC victory. Interesting that Boulder specialist Tomoa Narasaki got his third podium in Lead. Noteworthy is also seven male Japanese Top-19 and three female Top-7. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Romain Desgranges FRA
3. Jain Kim KOR - Tomoa Narasaki JPN
Complete results
Video Highlights

First 8A+ by Erica Gatland (20)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureErica Gatland, who previously has done two 7C+', has sent her first 8A+, Moby Dick in Flock Hill after just four sessions, video. "It is a very technical problem that has shit down lots of strong climbers!" (c) Edwin Sheppard

Jaubert and Shikov win Speed and Ogata got 7.55  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAnouck Jaubert from France and Alexandr Shikov from Russia won the Speed event in Villars. Overall, Mawem Bassa got the three fastest times always below 5.89 until the finals where he made big mistakes. Interesting is that there were an incident, like false start or major mistake, in half of the 32 final races. Among the Combined athletes, Yushiyuki Ogata from Japan impressed with 7.55. Tomoa Narasaki was first recorded with 7.22 but later "false start". Other big names were not that fast; Jernej Kruder 9.20 and Alex Megos 13.18.

Among the female, Miho Nonaka from Japan got 9.84 and Petra Klingler from Switzerland got 9.94. The most impressive Lead and Boulder female;
Janja Garnbret and Akiyo Noguchi, run in 11.65 and 12.15. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra  (6) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has onsighted his 19th 8c+, First Flight in Acephale. Later he also onsighted Ojas 8b+ in the most impressive style. "Slab! no chalk on the wall, clipping the draws"

Gripped reports that Megos in 2016 said, "If anybody ever onsights that thing, that’s at least as impressive as flashing 9a."

In total he has now onisghted 162 routes 8b+ and harder and it is actually in the onsight discipline, he is most superior. The runner up in the 8a database is Piots Schaab with 22 onsights 8b+ and 8c. Overall, Kleman Becan could be the runner up and a wild guess is that he has onsighted around 35 routes 8b+ and harder.

(c) Petr Pavlicek, who reports that this and many more ascents will be put on Yoitube soon.

Desgranges, Lehmann and Noguchi double tops  (8) Facebook

Perfect route setting and a perfect start of the Lead World Cup 2018 in Villars with three double tops; Romain Desgranges, Sasha Lehmann and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting that the there were three male Japanese Top-5 in the qualification including boulder stars Tomoa Narasaki and Yushiyuki Ogata. In total, 13 Japanese made it to the semi tomorrow. Other then that, no big surprices in the result list.

9a by Thibault Lair in Rodellar  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThibault Lair has done La der des der extension 8c+ and the first repeat of Dani Andrada's Nilsbru, suggesting an upgrade to 9a, in Rodellar. The 26 year old has previously done three 9a FAs.

"Very satisfied to do this route which cost me a lot of energy, especially mental. A hold has broken which makes the crux much harder. I did fall 15 times on this move. For a moment I thought of a big 8c + but after thinking, for me it may not be the same rating as Cosi or La der des der, So I propose 9a. I hope it will be done quickly to get more opinions."

8B by Nina Williams again  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNina Williams, who did her second 8B last week, has done The Automater 8B in RMNP. In the 8a ranking game, the 28 year old is #3. (c) Michael Pang

”Sent this thing twice in a day. My back grazed the pad on the first go and it bugged me. Rested 10 minutes and did it again clean. 8 sessions total. Psyched it's done!!”

8C by Daniel Woods in Rocklands  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done Nalle Hukkataival's Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands. (c) Brooke Raboutou.

"Stoked to make the 5th ascent of Nalle's Finnish line. I saw photos of Nalle on it last year and was awestruck by the lines beauty and movement. The climbing is powerful yet technical as well. It is key to have optimal friction to hold onto these holds. I spent three days working it on a rope then another three to go for the send. Its def one of the harder lines in Rocklands next to Livin large.

As for the rest of this trip I want to repeat a few more lines that my friends put up last year, Khoikhoi (8C), try Livin large a bit more (this one is hard for me), and search for some new shit. It snowed last night but it is gone now. Sending temps have arrived.

For the rest of this year I have a couple hard projects that I'm psyched on in CO and want to do a return trip to Spain in Dec for First round first minute. Just hyped to send some hard blocs and routes this year.

Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo

Junimond 7c+
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

oys are back in town
Andreas Hanisch

Jungle Book stand 7c+,
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
Andrew conroy

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
Gus Carter

Mullentino V6/7A
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Free topo for Silvapark  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is giving away a free topo for Silvapark bouldering in their app! With the promo code BUMERANG, you can unlock the area, which is part of the Alpen en Bloc climbing guidebook by Panico.

authors: Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago
picture by Daniel Horwath
New topo for Rocklands with 2500+ boulders  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTonight there will be a release party for the new topo of Rocklands with 2500+ problems in 480 pages. Livin' Large has been given 8C+ by author Scott Noy. Grades have been updated and for morpho (height dependent), slash grades have been used.
Ondra's recovery from an 8 meter ground fall  Facebook
Adam Ondra did have an eight meter ground fall in February. Here is his recovery story from his Physio/Osteopath Klaus Isele.
Pringle does the Nest 8C after 50+ days  Facebook
Olympic candidates starting to Speed fast  (3) Facebook
During the Speed qualification in Chamonix we could see the Olympic candidates moving fast in Speed beside 12 guys in between 5.70 and 6.15.

6.72 Mickael Mawem
6.97 Tomoa Narasaki
7.12 Manuel Cornu
7.21 Yushiyuki Ogata

9.18 Elena Krasovskaia
9.28 Miho Nonaka
9.33 Claire Buhrfeind

It should be noted that three years ago 8a talked to some of the best speed climbers in the world and they did not think it was possible to get below 7.5 seconds without focusing for a long time on Speed. To get below 7 seconds they thought was almost impossible if not mainly focusing on Speed.
8C FA by Paul Robinson getting closer to 1 000 8A's  (5) Facebook
Paul Robinson has done yet another FA video from South Africa where he usually spend his summers. Just yesterday he did the FA of yet another 8C after three years of projecting.

How is your bouldering lifestyle and motivation nowadays?
As you know I am very dedicated to making it to 1000 climbs 8A and harder. This has been a dream of mine now for a long time and it would be a dream come true to do it! I have less than 100 left now. I really am focused now on getting home and training. I want to get very strong for the fall. I made a list of 10 climbs that I really wanted to do before the end of the year a few weeks ago. I am not sure if I will get to try them all this year but this will be my goal and motivate my training even more this august/september.

Robinson's Rocklands Montage  Facebook
Unclip first drawers - belay more dynamic  Facebook
I heard about a minor accident yesterday due to hard belaying. The route starts on top of a pile of stones with the first quick draw very low. This means if you do not unclip the first drawers, it is very hard to stay away from the rock and belay dynamic.

In theory, whenever the first quickdraw is very low, you should consider unclip it as this will increase your possibility to belay dynamic. You should practice such belaying indoors before trying it outdoors. An easy way to create a dynamic fall is actually to bend your legs, in critical situations, as this will reduce the risk to get frightened and sit down during impact. decreasing the softness of the fall.
Body tension exercises while bouldering  Facebook
Euro Youth Cup in Munchen  Facebook
Slovenia and Spain got two victories each in the Euro Youth Cup in München. The only one to top out all three routes was Alberto Gines Lopez.
99: Luiza Emeleva RUS - Mikel Linacisoro ESP
01: Lucka Rakovec SLO - Alberto Gines López ESP
03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Hannes van Deysen BEL
Complete results

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