Loic Zehani, who earlier in 2024 has sent 15 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Taille Land (9a) in Baume canouille. ”Nice ultra physical route bolted by François. About thirty moves in big overhang and rather homogeneous with two harder sections. I fell about eight times at the top with a very bad and hard méthod, to redpoint directly with a méthod found by my father just before. So a dozen attempts instead of four!”

Marco Sappa, who this summer sent the mixed Sans liberty (8b+) at 3,800 m on Mont Blanc, has completed the third ascent of Tom Randall's La Pura Pura (8c) in Valle dell'Orco. The hybrid route begins with a 15 m 8a traverse, leading into the classic Greenspit (8b). Like the second ascensionist Pete Whittaker, Sappa’s personal grade is hard 8c.

”The first day of trying was the 10 September, I immediately remembered the complex movements of Greenspit. I had to really focus on the boulder traverse and the transition between the boulder and the cave, in which you had to be able to rest a bit and collect the friends needed for the second part.

It took me 7 days of hard work to figure it out and to be able to arrive at the last crux of Greenspit with enough energy to crush it! Pura Pura, it's a crazy endurance test piece, a really Pure line. My journey under that impressive roof is now over☺️! Grateful for how these kinds of climbs and performances keep me motivated, and with passion, effort and determination could fit in my life as a father, husband, alpine guide and Professional Climber.”