Laura Rogora, the double Euro Champion six weeks ago, has had some great days in Verdon, onsighting Spanish Caravan (8c), flashing Le feu occulte (8b+) and Agressif you want (8c), as well as redpointing La flûte en chantier (8c+). (c) Claudia Ghisolfi

How close were you to fall on the onsight and the flashes?
At the beginning I made a few mistakes and suffered a bit on the start but fortunately then there where a lot of kneebar where I can rest. On the upper part I couldn’t figure out the best beta and I risked to fall several times. It was a 45 min long batte and in the end my calfs where totally destroyed😛.

The 8c flash was quite at my limit, there where e few wet holds so I had to give my best. The 8b+ was more under control because it was longer so the single moves where easier.

Evan Hau, who the last seven years has bolted and sent six routes 9a or 9a+, has done the FA of Queen Bee Direct (9a) in Coliseum. ”One of the original mega projects envisioned by Matt Pieterson at the Coliseum. I've been trying this route off and on since 2015. At that time I walked away from the direct start thinking it was too hard and ended up climbing a linkup variation also bolted by Matt Pieterson which ended up being Queen Bee 8c. I revisited the direct start in 2020 after doing Sacrifice and was able to do all of the individual moves but difficult conditions made it hard to get quality time on the route. Finally this year I tried to focus in on sending it. I thought I could do it in April this year, it ended up taking until October but I'm happy I got it done. Had some last day vibes and pressure today as we fly to Spain tomorrow. I think the grade is 9a/+.”

Can you tell us more about the long process behind and the number of sessions?
I had a lot of sessions on Queen Bee Direct over the years, over 50 easily. I don't keep count when it gets that high.

I had come close a few times about a month ago but couldn't get it done between mental mistakes, deteriorating conditions, foot slips. It was mostly about staying focused and keeping the psych alive to believe I could still get it done. I trained hard for this route all last winter, mostly circuits replicating crux sections, because I thought I could send in the spring but through the summer I mostly just climbed outside.

What is the plan in Spain?
In Spain we are going to hope for good conditions in Rodellar and my plan is to work on No pain no gain (9a+).