Alex Megos, who five days ago did the FA of Iker Pou’s On Egin (8c+) after only three tries, has made the FA of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+) in Margalef, bolted by Adrien Boulon. (c) Rainer Eder

The 31-year-old double Olympian has completed ten routes graded 9b or 9b+ and over 100 graded 9a or harder, including achieving the world’s first 9a onsight in 2012.

Can you tell us more about the trip and Tuareg Blanco?
Good start to the year. The trip paid off now 😅 I started working the route when we came to Margalef after Christmas and have pretty much been focusing only on that route. I didn't do anything else really and for about 10 days only worked the moves and sections.

Unfortunately that route required me to rest quite a bit, because it peeled off my skin so quickly that I couldn't hold on anymore. In the end I think I was giving it tries for 5 days until it happened today on the second try of the day. With a few beta changes along the way.

The challenge were small and sharp holds, no rest and no good holds for 20 moves and the crux at the end of the 20 moves. Tricky with the weather too. It's in full sun for the whole day to it was often too warm.

What is coming up next and what about World Cups in 2025?
Some training camps with the German team and some workshops at our gym 😅😂. I'll only do the European ones, if anything. I'll not fly to China or Japan or anywhere else.

Arlo Rogers, with six 8c+’ under his belt, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 35-meter classic gained fame as the world’s first 9a route to be onsighted, an achievement accomplished by Alex Megos in 2012. (c) Rob Knowles

Can you tell me us more about the ascent?
The route took me 9 sessions and I had 2 goes a session whilst trying some other bits onsight at the end of most days on it. When I first arrived in siurana the route was super busy! Dispite the ques being abit annoying, it was great sharing it with so many people and seeing them at the New Years party. After passing the crux on my 6th session, I fell off on the head wall a few times, and last move once before doing it just before the sun set on my last go of the day!

What about the new knee bar you mention on your Instagram?
Eder Lombar actually found the knee and mentioned it to me. It’s just after the two pockets on the head wall and gives a brief shake. For me even with this it felt harder than all the 8c+’s I have done, including a couple of which get 8c+/9a like Caban au Canada.

What is your climbing background and what are your plans for 2025?
Started climbing around 10 years ago at my local wall (Warwick). I started trad climbing outside not long after with trips from the wall and got really in to this, when I was abit older I started to get the train up to the Peak District to get out at much as I could. When i could drive at 17 i started sport climbing outside a lot more and climbed my first 8a this year in 2020. Since then whilst in school, studdying dietetics at Cardiff met I have been going on trips when I can, whilst also doing route setting and climbing coaching on the side.

This year I hope to climb Seleccio Natural (9a). I tried this last year for 2 weeks, I was sleeping in a bivvi bag in the car park and got very ill so hopefully Il finish that! I also hope to climb more in South Wales where I am studying, I am trying a couple of routes I bolted on the sea cliffs, and hope to do more onsight trad climbing in Pembroke. I also hope To climb in Flatanger this summer and try many of the classics there!

Stefano Folgarait, with ten 8c+’ and 9a’s under his belt, has done Biologico (9a) in Arco . (c) Oskar Toucha

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the pitch for the first time about four years ago. At first, I worked on it inconsistently and sporadically, about once every two months. However, in the past month, I started trying it with much more perseverance.

The route is divided into two sections. The first includes a boulder with a beautiful two-handed dyno graded 8a, very physical, followed by a knee bar. The second section consists of a 7c+ boulder problem, which suits me much better. Once past that, the route becomes more climbable. Completing this route was incredibly satisfying—a mix of happiness and gratitude, especially because I was able to share so many special moments with friends who made the experience even more memorable.

How come you have not sent any 8c+ or 9a for over 2.5 years?
In recent years, I have focused on other sports activities such as ski mountaineering, freediving, and trail running. I also had two minor injuries that slowed down my progress. Nevertheless, I have continued working on some projects, both near Arco and at my local crag in Potrich. In total, I have been projecting for some 40 days. Among them, there is a potential 9a+ that I am still working on. It’s a challenging project… I can’t wait to complete it!

Eloi Lorente García has has made the first repeat of Enrique Beltran Blasco’s Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. (c) Rebeca Cardenas

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route cost me 13 days of work and from the first days I felt very good on it but the bad conditions and humidity made the process very difficult for me. The route is super physical and very blocky. The first four moves are 8A block, then without rest you have to do another 7A+ block, then you have a medium rest and at the end a 7C block that is quite aleatory.

What is your climbing background?
My experience with climbing began when I was nine years old. Since I was little, I have always liked the mountains and from the first moment I was passionate about climbing. In 2022 when I was 16 years old I did my first 8b the next year, 2023 when I was 17 years old I did my first 8c and this year when I was 18 years I did my first 9a. Due to competitions I don’t have much time to go out on rock but I have always loved it. This season has been quite hard for me and being able to do this route has been something incredible.

What are your plans and ambitions in 2025?
In competitions, this year I would like to be able to reach more than one final in the absolute Spanish championships. My dream has always been to be part of the Spanish climbing team this year. I would like to try to enter and if that is not the case, I can continue getting closer and closer to my dreams.

For this year on rock I don’t have big goals in mind at the moment since the one I had in my sights was to do this 9a but I would like to be able to do 8a+ or 8b onsight. Another thing I have in mind that I would love to do this year is 8B block.

But above all, what I want most for this year is to continue enjoying the processes and the climbing.

Alex Garriga, who previously last year sent 6 routes 9a and beyond, finished 2024 by doing a 9a+ extension to his El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec