Gonzalo Larrocha, 40, does Selección anal del fuego (9a+)

Gonzalo Larrocha has done Selección anal del fuego (9a+) in Santa Linya, which is a new 15 m exit to Selecció anal (9a+). On the original route, he broke his pinky while using a mono, and over the course of several years, he made “hundreds” of attempts. In total, the 40-year-old, who did his first 8c+ at age 27, has done some 120 routes 8c+ and beyond. (c) Mar Diaz Miranda

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
For me, it has been the most difficult route, mentally and physically. I spent several years trying out the moves, looking for different methods, I injured my little finger, I went half crazy. Finally, I started trying an exit towards "Stoking the fire" to avoid the hole where I had injured myself. The day of the chaining was strange. It was wet and I didn't feel very energetic. On the first try I fell in the lower area, which is common with natural selection, I have done this area of ​​hard 8c+ more than 20 times in the last few years.

On the second try, after passing the lower part and having a good rest, I went out to try the block that I had tried so many times, suddenly I found myself passing the last move of that block. There were still 15 meters of 7c+ left with some steps that made me nervous, but little by little I overcame the moves and I was able to clip the chain of my eternal project. At that moment I screamed with rage, because of what I had caused myself, an unparalleled obsession to do this route.

I would also like to thank all my friends who have not told me to go to hell for being so annoying with this route. Especially Pol, with whom I have been training, and Silvia, who has had to put up with me being sad at times.

Alex Ventajas ticks Omen Nomen (9a)

Alex Ventajas, with 16 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has done Omen Nomen (9a) in Arco. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I have already tried the route on two occasions. The first time was around three years ago, and I remember it felt really hard! It was spring and since the wall gets a lot of sun, the tiny holds, and slippery feet combined with hot temperatures discouraged me from trying it again. The second time was the past autumn, even if I already had another project in mind, I randomly went back to Padaro and found Simon Raffeiner trying Omen Nomen. I decided to share some tries with him and thanks to his betas I managed to do all the moves.

Even if the route caught my attention, I didn’t come back since last week. That day I had no expectations, I just wanted to revise the sequences! After warming up on the route, I gave it a second try and unexpectedly found myself falling on the last hard move before the chain!

This Monday, after five intense route-setting work days for a boulder competition and a few skins left on my fingers, I came back to Padaro! Everything flowed perfectly, letting me send the route on the first go of the day! It’s kind of strange because I have never thought about Omen Nomen as a real “project”, the send just happened!

It’s funny to see how our perception might change over the years! The first time I couldn’t fully appreciate the line but, on the contrary, the past days I found it five-star, varied and spicy, and enjoyed every move!

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David Bermudez Carbonell, 15, does two 8c+ (9a)

David Bermudez Carbonell, who sent five 9a's in 2024, has done La Bongada (8c+/9a) in Margalef and (H)as de-cotaciones (8c+) in Cuenca. (c) Nieves Ruiz

Can you tell us more about the latest hard ascents?
I went to Margalef last Christmas with the goal of improving my onsight climbing and trying to do a 9th grade route . I decided to try la Bongada, an 8c+/9a in Espadelles and I could quickly progress faster than I expected. After five days of work, I could redpoint the route after falling three times on the last hard moves. Some days before I went to Racó de Misa , where I could climb three routes onsight, an 8a, an 8a+ and Hidrofobia 8b.

Then I returned to my home crag, Cuenca. Past Saturday I could send (H)as de-cotaciones, a very solid and hard 8c+ in a total of 6 tries. I tried 3 tries on December 2024 and 3 tries on Saturday.

Alex Megos flashes Mr Big 9a (8c+)

Alex Megos, who two days ago made the FA of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+) has flashed Tom Bolger’s Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef.

How did you prepare for the flash?
The route was right next to my project, so for 2 weeks I watched about 5 different people on the route. I had all the beta in my head after that.

It was very much in control the whole way, but I don't think it's 9a. It felt a bit easy for 9a

Tereza Širůčková does Forever more sit (8A+)

Tereza Širůčková, who two weeks ago did the 145 moves La Rubia (8c+) , has logged her first boulder, Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione.

Can you tell us more about sending your first hard boulder?
For me, this trip to Brione was my first bouldering trip ever. Until now, I had occasionally gone to my local crags, but those were mostly one-day trips where I just climbed whatever others were climbing. Maybe it’s because I mostly climb on a rope, so I get really scared on outdoor boulders. It’s still pretty unfamiliar for me.

On the first day we arrived, I realized it was going to be really cold for me. I was afraid I wouldn’t even be able to climb. I thought, “Maybe bouldering isn’t for me; I’m cold, and I’m scared.” But the next day was a bit better, and for the first time, I had a boulder problem I really wanted to try: Forever More Sit. I got a recommendation for it from Jana Švecová, so I knew height wouldn’t limit me too much. That day, I managed to figure out all the moves, so I had a feeling it might work. And on the next climbing day, after a rest day, I sent it! So now I guess I’m officially a boulderer. 😆