Solveig Korherr, who has been on a climbing trip in Turkey for three months, has done Turkish Moon 8c in Datca. The 22-year-old is #1 in the 8a annual ranking game, and during the last months she has only three males ahead of her.
"It is a very unique line in the Can Baba cave and unlike most of the other routes, it is less kneebar intense and more finger strength dependent. I tried this route at the beginning of our trip here in Datça, but unfortunately, with wet holds and bad conditions, it was almost impossible to move off these small holds. After having done most of the classics, I finally came back to this one!
It was really nice to get my fingers on some crimps! After I found all the beta, it came rather quickly together. It took me four redpoint tries to get to the anchor. "Turkish Moon" suited me a lot more than some of the other powerful climbs in the cave! I’m glad that after climbing with so many kneebars in the last month, I was still able to hold on to some smaller holds :)"
Andi Stull and Richelle Hepler have done their first 8A+, Lethal Design in Red Rock. Both have their ascents on Insta; Richelle and Andi.
Richelle (32): "I love this boulder! So sick! So perfect! Crimpy and multiple variations for all sizes! I can't wait to try "for the children" because this boulder is so rad!"
Andi (23), pictured: "I started climbing at a local gym in May of 2016 and have been psyched ever since. I first looked at Lethal Design two years ago and pulled on to some of the moves, but my physical abilities were nowhere near where they needed to be in order to do it. Since then, this rock climb has been in the back of my mind and one of my biggest goals within climbing. After having two more sessions on it over the weekend, I was able to tick the climb off my bucket list. After sending this rock climb, I feel more motivated than ever to continue to train and push myself to see what I can accomplish."
On her Insta, Andi has also recently talked about the challenges of starting climbing coming out of an eating disorder. "Over the time I have been climbing, I have recognized that being strong and healthy is far more important than being "light” and will lead to greater physical and mental victories."
Elias Iagnemma reports on Insta that he has done Christian Core's Gioia in Varazze. The 25-year-old has previously done four 8C's saying Gioia is harder, suggesting the grade 8C/+. "I used knee pads which transform an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one."
This route was put up in 2008 and Adam Ondra did the first repeat three years later suggesting an upgrade to 8C+. Core has later also said that this was correct, comparing it to other 8C's and before a new chipped crimper appeared in 2015. Full story of Gioia including comments from Core from last December.
Elias tells 8a that he needed 20 to 25 sessions over two years to take it down. "I only used the new method with the knee pads but it exactly respects the line and the original grips."The last picture shows his knee pad sequence avoiding the red dotted chipped crimp. There will be a video out tomorrow and later a longer video showing the entire process and some other boulders done in Varazze. (c) Simone Antuzzi
Andrea Kümin has done her second 8A+, Frank's Wild Years in Cresciano. The psychology student has been an active WC climber for seven years, with #10 as her best result yet.
”I tried the boulder once a few years ago and could not do a single move. It wasnt until last december I touched the holds again. Last year I tried it twice and fell on the last hard move a few times. After that I did not get outdoors until two weeks ago, because I studied a lot for my exams. When I tried it again and did it, it felt pretty good😊 I am really happy I climbed this boulder, because it is imo a powerful problem and it showed me that I made big progress in the last years😊
I hope that competitions will be back. So I am training for the BWC in meiringen and Innsbruck and the WCH in Moscow😊 Meiringen is my favourite comp🤩 And successfully finish my bachelor degree🤓
My thesis is about therapeutic climbing with depressive patients. Atm I am studying fulltime, which is a bit stressfull at sometimes but I generally really enjoy it😊 ”
Yannick Flohé, who got the bronze in the Boulder World Championship of 2019, has done his first 9a, Wild Publico. "Bouldery crux with dynamic moves on mono and crimps then going left into Pal Publico 8c. For sure one of the best lines in Marglef." The video is not the footage from the send but a clip as he did not have a camera man.
Tom Bolger reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Frenesi 9a/+ which was an old open project in Margalef. (c) Ivan Torres
"It’s an awesome route. I cleaned up the old project and brought life back to it! Really hard jump move from a bad 3 finger dish! Psyched to keep adding FAs to the Espadelles wall! I had to add the chain and had to brush clean all the holds and remove some loose rock. The route has three marked boulder cruxes with sustained powerful moves on two-finger pockets in between. The route broke near the start hence the really hard jump move. I guess this is why it was left by other people who had tried. The route has a left-hand finish called Abstinencia which used to be 8c+ but will now be harder due to the broken start."
He has lived in Catalunya for over ten years and in the Margalef area for a few years. Currently he is studying to become a climbing guide in Spain. Last month he made the FA of Wild West 9a/+ in the same sector.
"I work in the U.K. I travel backwards and forwards as I work doing rope access. This year I have worked less due to covid and as a result, I have managed to send more of my projects 😛. My next plan is to bolt new lines and try and repeat all the classics her locally and eventually travel once we can :)"
Marine Thevenet reports on Insta that she has done Podomos in Cresciano. In total, she has now done well over 60 boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Clément Lechaptois
"I never saw the boulder before this winter; even if it is just behind Frank’s wild year! This is incomprehensible why it is not a classic from Cresciano! I tried it during a weekend; during the first day I couldn't do the key move with the undercling; on Sunday I had it in two parts 🔥 I came back to it the following weekend but it was wet; I still tried to figure out some tricks and touched the holds for a couple of hours. Two weeks later we had the chance to come back for a sunny and cold weekend and I sent it just after Clement :) Such a nice Saturday!"
Jonathan Flor reports on Insta that he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. It was put up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2004, and with 29 ascents it is the world's most repeated 9a+. (c) Javi Pec
Flor has done some 45 routes graded 8c+/9a and to 9b, meaning that there are only seven climbers ahead of him on that exclusive list. Add to that some routes that he has personally graded. The 24-year-old finished a five-year intensive competition career in 2018, being #23 in the Boulder World Championship in Innsbruck.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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