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9a by Barbara Zangerl  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Zangerl has done Cedric Lachat's Speed Integrale 9a in Voralpsee, which was a 10 m extension to Beat Kammerlander's Speed 8c+. It took Babsi some 15 days and the sending day was amazing.

"What a day!!!!—at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations. Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!!" Jacopo Larcher

Interesting she did it the first time also doing Speed 8c+. "The extension is powerful on slopy pockets ...not easy to climb that with pumped forearms."

Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is the best female multi-discipline climber.

"I love all disciplines. I couldn't focus just on one all over the year. Next is Canada is a trip to Canada for June and July. Excited to go there for my first time. Always fun to see new places."

 
 
Tito Traversa "instructor" sentenced 2 years prison  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureIn 2013, Tito Traversa (12) fell to the ground from 18 meters due to quick draws fallen apart as they were only attached with the rubber band. Tito had just done his fourth 8b+ and he was on a youth trip with his local club including one leader and two parents.

The Italian court has now said the unofficial instructor Nicola Galizia should be blamed and has sentenced him to two two years in prison and also judicial expenses in excess of 21 000 euros. However, Galizia is likely not going to jail as this is his first offense. Pareti.it has more info in Italian

For Tito, forever in our hearts, video made by Christian Core which was presented at Arco Rock Master 2013 where Ramon Julian Puigblanque dedicated his victory to him. Tito's father have said we should keep his 8a scorecard as another memory of his son.

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle - Climbing starts 04.15  (17) Facebook
 


9b at 1800m: La Cène du (Roi) Lézard – The Last Supper of the Lizard (King), Jansegg, FR/CH from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Two 8B flashes by Niccolò Ceria  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNiccolo Ceria reports on Insta that he has flashed Chris Sharma's Trifecta Middel and James Morris' Mortality Sequence in Flock Hill. Interesting is that they both only been repeated few times. (c) Gomez Garcia Gonzalez

Niky's Insta is full of other great pictures and info about some new FAs, but no grades, in the stunning and famous boulder spot in New Zealand. With a couple 8B flashes previously, he should be considered as one of the best in the world.

 
 
Jumbo Love 9b by Jonathan Siegrist  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture Jonathan Siegrist has done the second repeat, after Ethan Pringle, of Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear Cam Media More info to come

 
 
9a and 9a+ FAs in Romania by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has been invited to climbing in Herculane in Romania where he, among other things, made one 9a FA and Stone Butterfly 9a+. Interesting is that he calls it the “wall of perfection” on his Insta and that he has marked the routes with thumbs up which he actually rarely does.

Amazing project from Gerhard Horhager right of Guri Guri. Power endurance on small tufas and crimps. Very complex and fun climbing.

 
 
8B by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChad Greedy reports on Insta that Isabelle Faus has done The Cat Ranch 8B in RMNP. Isabelle has already sent close to 100 boulder problems from 8A to 8B+ and she's 2nd in the ranking game.

 
 
Great show in Tai'an  (5) Facebook
 

Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka won the fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup in Tai'an and continues their total domination. In the last two WCs, Akiyo has done all 26 boulder (Miho 25) and the runner up Stasa Gejo has done 15 boulders. Among the male, Alex Khazanov got his and Israel's first victory, interview is coming up, with the two Slovenians Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik sharing the podium. The route setting and show was perfect in Tai'an with many amazing moments and excitement to the very.

1. Alex Khazanov 34 ISR - Akiyo Noguchi 44:5 JPN
2. Jernej Kruder 24:2 SLO - Miho Nonaka 44:10 JPN
3. Gregor Vezonik 24:4 SLO - Fanny Gibert 23:6 FRA
Complete results The results are presented as points and with ties, the number of attempts are added.

 
 
Sharma enjoys sharing his projects and gets motivated  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2009 Chris Sharma bolted La Dura Dura and two years later he did something unusual for the climbing community, as he told Adam Ondra to challenge him for the FA. Ondra did it in 2013 and one month later Sharma did his first 9b+. Cooperation in competitions is common but "closed projects" are quite normal in the climbing world and calling Perfecto Mundo an open project, Chris has once again showed the way forward.

"It was great climbing with Stefano and Alex on Perfecto Mundo. They were very respectful in asking me permission and honestly I had been quite on and off with the route so it was super motivating to try and share there experience with someone else. Definitely way more fun than trying it alone. And it was great to share something special with the new generation.

Sometimes keeping projects for ourselves can block the good energy from flowing naturally and it was great to let the good vibes flow with Alex and Stefano. Such nice guys and incredible climbers and athletes. That being said, I think it’s a case by case situation, and people should respect people’s projects and always ask for the bolter’s blessing.

I’m super psyched to continue trying and hopefully send Perfecto Mundo one day soon. It’s one of the most meaningful routes I’ve tried and have yet to complete. So whether it goes this season or next, I plan to keep at it till it comes together!" (c) Ricardo Giancola

 
 
Boulder World Cup Final  Facebook
 

 
 
Great hot semifinal in Tai'an  (2) Facebook
 

Perfect route setting, based almost only on volumes, in the semi final where we saw some sensations as Tomoa Narasaki and Alexey Rubtsov missed the final. With the old scoring system, Narasaki would have been #2 as he flashed three problems but as he failed to get the zone on the fourth, the new scoring system put him down to 8th place. Among the male, six Japaneses in Top-11. Complete results. The final starts 02.30 GMT+8.

Female finalists: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert, Condie, Färber and Gejo
Male finalists: Fujii, Kruder, Vezonik, Khazanov, Sugimoto and Chon

 
 
Team work made the FA on Perfecto Mundo 9b+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma bolted Perfecto Mundo in 2010 and has worked it of and on since. Stefano Ghisolfi started working on it this winter and they were joined by Alex Megos this spring who just sent it after 15 days projecting. (c) Sara Grippo

How come did you choose this route as your first long term project and did you do any specific training for it?

It was not a decision I made beforehand. I just had a Spain trip planned to Margalef and Oliana with checking out "Perfecto Mundo" in mind. So I got here and after checking it out I got really psyched on it. We've been talking about going and trying Perfecto Mundo with Stefano (Ghisolfi) already a while ago but I never managed till now.

Chris was giving me all the beta he knew and he was the first one I'd see climbing on the route which was super interesting to see. We motivated each other and helped each other with beta and sequences. Stefano ended up taking my foot beta for the jump from the mono to the pinch for example. I changed my beta for the top to Stefanos beta. We were belaying each other as well. I didn't do any specific training for the route no. I came straight from a bouldering World Cup to Spain. All the training I did was on the route itself.

Also Ghisolfi has enjoyed the cooperation and might take another trip if the weather cooperates before he need to start preparing for the Lead World Cup preparation. "It was motivating to try the route together, no competition between us but just cooperation. I don't know how close I am, could take one more week or maybe I need to come back in autumn or winter."

 
 
9 + 8 Japaneses to the semifinal i Tai'an  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe male Japanese domination in the Boulder World Cup continues and they won both groups in Tai'an as well as got nine into the Top-20 semifinal, starting tomorrow 09.30 GMT+8. All the big names made it through. Complete results. (c) IFSC

Among the female, the Japaneses set a new record with eight into the semifinal and to make it even more impressive, they participated with just eight female. The next Boulder WC takes place in Tokyo and there some 20 female and 25 male Japanese athletes are allowed to compete. The reason for the higher number of male is due to there were five in the Top-8 overall.

 
 
8c+ by Manon Hily  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureManon Hily seems to be in her best shape in her life and has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. "Much easier then Era Vella meaning 8c/+." (c) Théo Cartier

Last week she did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) after just trying if for four days and during her trip she has onsighted or flashed every 8a she has tried and she also did her first 8b onsight, La presó dels monstres. She says that the Margalef style with many two finger pockets suites her style.

 
 
9a by Alexander Rohr  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexander Rohr has done the first repeat of Simon Wandeler's Alpenbitter 9a in Gimmelwand from 2007 and the story is great.

"During the first tries I came have way up the boulder but failed horribly! Too nervous and too much power just end in very inefficient climbing for me. As I got more and more tired and about to fire go number six, something magic happened. Something I never really experienced before. Very intense.

I started climbing to the first No-handrest before business starts. I was thinking about having a slight chance to still get through. But instead of making thoughts, I just completely forgot myself and I can‘t even remember what happened. I just remember the feeling while climbing towards the top. It felt like a big rush, full of energy and tiredness. Two opposites balancing out perfectly. My body got more and more tired but my mind was releasing energy I never knew it‘s existing. Perfect on a route like this where every move gets harder and harder until everything is over. The last move before the rest are very bouldery and hard. I was just smashing the dropknees around and totally went for it.

In the last move I almost passed out as I didnt‘t have oxygen in my body anymore. Everything was gone and I just realized that I‘m on the redpoint. Calm, and suddendly almost fresh. I did not get nervous, I just knew that I‘m going to do it now. Totally trapped in a bubble. Then I just climbed to the top and realized that I‘m the complete opposite of fresh! I couldn't yell or cry for long. Too tired. I jumped off and felt like I was running to save my life. Truly a special experience!‘

 
 
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Alex Megos  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos has done the old Chris Sharma project, Perfecto Mondo in Margalef which Chris has commented. "When it goes it'll surely be one of the best and hardest routes ever." Video of Chris Sharma projecting it. Megos comments on his Insta. "I'm incredibly relieved. This has been an important process in my climbing career and clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+ as well as getting the FA was an incredible experience. Video of one attempt.

Stefano Ghisolfi has also been working on it and this was what he told us last month. "Perfecto Mundo project first part could be 8c to a rest, then the main section starts, about ten intense moves with the crux that is a jump from a mono to a pinch which is the hardest move. I can do it as single move but not always. From there is still a bit hard, 8a+ to the chain I think." (c) Ken Etzel

 
 
8A+ in Västervik by Shauna Coxsey  Facebook
 

Instead of doing the Bouldering World Cups in China, Shauna Coxsey is enjoying summer weather in Västervik, Sweden, where she today did Namaste 8A+.

 
 
9a in Frankenjura by Thomas Dauser  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Dauser has done his second 9a, The Essential in Frankenjura which took him a total of eight days. (c) Ole Koenig

"In a major battle, I climbed "The Essential" (9a) on Saturday. After my foot slipped twice at the last move to the jug, I finally climbed it in the 6th try on this day... and impressed myself. More exhausted than the previous tries, but very focused... seems like a rare moment where the mind wins over simple physical power."

 
 
Ignacio Mulero highballing in La Pedriza  Facebook
 

Nice video of Ignacio Mulero climbing some new problems up to 8B+ FA's in a brand new area in La Pedriza, Spain. Video by David López.

La Pedriza is one of the biggest crags in Europe that still remains relatively unknown. New areas keep being devoloped every year, making La Pedriza one of the best granite destinations in Europe, and just 40 min from Madrid airport.

The Pedriza Bouldering Guidebook updated 2nd Edition is coming up in 2018 by local boulderers Talo Martín & Roser Giralt, teamed up with Vertical Life, compeling 80 sectors and over 2500 boulders, including kids sectors and many more, making the Albarracín-Pedriza combination a serious option to consider.

La Pedriza is mainly known by the unique character of its 4000 routes, where technical slabs up to 8c+ get along with face and overhanging sport climbing, 8c trad, 8b multipitch and A5 in aid climbing.

 
 
8C FA by Florian Schmalzl  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFlorian Schmalzl, who previously has done two 8C's, has done the FA of a stunning line called Sierra Madre in Zillertal. In fact he did not give it a grade but talking to his friends who had tried it they all think it could be 8C. "All in all, cleaning it, finding the beta and climbing it, it took me ten days."

 
Michał Kwiatkowski

Queimada 8b+, Villanuev
a del Rosario
 
Georgios Rouss

Apostolis Karras tries
to FA 'Alexandrou Anava
sis, Pyli crag, sector
Ano
 
Leon Trip

Water soloing in Hydra
Greece
 
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Albarracín
 
Lévy Desmarais

Divine Punishment 8a, R
ed River Gorge
 
Furkan Akkaya

Olympos Games 8b, Geyik
Bayiri
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Furkan Akkaya

Chain Erection 8a
 
Chuck Odette

Big Man On Campus, Hurr
icave, UT
 
Miguel Espejo

Líneas Cruzadas 7c, La
Piedra
 
Daniel Schmid

Mountain Range Highball
8a+, Öküzini
 
Andreas Hanisch

La vira 8a, Tenerife
 
Christian Winklmair

DER Wasserfall in Steeg
zeigt sich von seiner
besten Seite!
 
Gus Carter

Gus Carter // Beyond Li
fe V10/7c+, Joe's Valle
y
 
Petra Queitsch (f)

Käpt´n hook 7c, Franken
jura
 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Michał Kwiatkowski

Florida 8c, Rodellar
 
Martin Bigatti

Timeline 5b, Mt Evans
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
90 year anniversary for La Sportiva  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureADVERTORIAL - La Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 5 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!
 
Upgradings in Kalymnos  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureThe 2018 season has started out better and the local Kalymnos community is more optimistic then before and there are many hotels and apartments have done or are doing upgradings.

Starting from June 1, Carian Hotel start up their 4 star services included also car rental. This is a high class luxury hotel, first of it's kind on the island, also with a SPA and relax and they offer half price for climbers in June, see picture.

Aris T reports that 1 200 bolts and 200 anchors have arrived to the island. "This is our contribution to the island from the proceeds of the Kalymnos guidebook for 2018." The new updated topo will be released this autumn including several hundred new routes compared to the 2017 edition. Just Claude Idoux has over 200 new routes that will be included.

When it comes to climbing shops, Adventure center has closed but Wild Sport is running a new one. "The last two years was rather slow with less flights and many trying Leonidio and other new Greece destinations. This year has started great with perfect weather and many old faces that are coming back. With the upgrading of the Kos airport we see more low budget airplanes coming and from what we have heard, Ryan Air will add more flights from different locations in Europe. We try our best and it is nice to see that the "low budget" destination gets upgraded every year and also welcoming a new segment of climbers."
 
Two 9a's get 8c+ by Seb Bouin  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin, who has done more than 20 routes 9a and harder has repeated two more: Nadesjda near Montpellier and Molasse’son for which he gives a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Sam Bie

"I'm going to try and take a little bit of salt to deal with the following. And I will try to be as objective as possible in my reasoning. First of all, I would start by saying that the quotation of a track may be something that changes between the first ascent and the many repetitions that follow. Indeed, the process of first ascent makes it difficult to take a path. We spend more time, we break the catch, we don't have methods... it's normal that sometimes the quotations move in one direction or another. I have either been decotter or recoter about this, and I find it normal."
 
Ribiere with Sharma, Webb and Graham  Facebook
 
A dream came true for Alex Khazanov  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureLooking at Alex Khazanov's long IFSC result board is amazing and very inspiring, for everyone normally fighting way down in the result list. After four years with great progress as a junior, he was one of the best in bouldering in 2014. At the same time he started off by being #67 and #75 in the World Cup. Again with fast progress his best result was #18, coming into the 2018 season which begun with being #57. In the next one in Moscow he was #7 and decided to use all his savings to go to China. Alex works as a coach and route setter, living a low budget life sleeping at his parents house, and unfortunately the Israel federation can not yet support him with the starting fee for the comps.

"Right now I cannot afford a rock trip if I want to do all the comps, and I am trying to get the Olympic department to give me some money for lead comps as preparation for Innsbruck."

As a preparation for the 2018 season he trained six times a week twice a day for six months. "I like to train alone, that way you can have all the time you want to work on detail, other than rushing between boulders and trying to show who is better."

So how can you explain this amazing - A dream come true story?
It was so unexpected and I am so happy!!
The season is still only half way so we will see what happens. I hope I can make semi next time, haha its always hard in Bouldering. I guess what helped me the most is two factors. One, is physical, I have trained a lot and slightly different than others. But I guess it's my small secret the other one is mental. I climbed extremely free and with no expectations. I was just happy to be in semi finals, and than I was just happy to be in finals. I am not afraid from bad results.

Can you say something about that secret training?
I have a non climbing coach at home. In order to do a slab you sometimes have to do a one leg squat. It's hard to get this power from climbing. So I went to the gym. imagine you on two volumes on the same height, and you need to transfer balance between the two. It will be much easier if you have strong lower back and stabilizer muscles . So you control your body. In the gym I do not use machines. More with a physio ball, weights, rubber bands and rings.

And what about all the jumping around on big volumes?
I just try to make some crazy moves. But all and all I guess if you climb a lot on different types of climbing, rock and plastic you get a better feeling in all styles. As for Slabs, the gym is key. I plan to spend one month in Innsbruck before the World Championship focusing on jumping around.

Interesting is also that Alex has teamed up with Alex Rubtsov and the Slovenians both outdoors and in competitions and they are all Top-7 in the World Cup ranking together with three Japanese.
 
Boulder WC ranking after four events  (1) Facebook
Here is the overall World Cup ranking, counting all four events. There are three competitios remaining and then you count the all but one event. Complete results

1. Jernej Kruder 307 - Miho Nonaka 340
2. Tomoa Narasaki 251 - Akiyo Noguchi 330
3. Alexey Rubtsov 208 - Fanny Gibert 207
4. Kokoro Fujii 197 - Janja Garnbret 180
5. Rei Sugimoto 157 - Stasa Gejo 167
6. Gregor Vezonik 156 - Katja Kadic 164
7. Alex Khazanov 152 - Jessica Pilz 138
8. Jongwon Chon 149 - Chloe Caulier 114
9. Jakob Schubert 142 - E Kipraiianova 98
0. Tomoaki Takata 127 - Sol Sa 95
 
Liv Sansoz trying 82 4 000 peaks in 12 months  Facebook
Liv Sansoz is one of the best female climber in the history. She was the second woman to do 8c+ and she won 11 World Cups and two World Championship. Being 24 years old she took a bad ground fall and had to stop climbing for several years. In 2009, she had a bad base jump accident that kept her in the bed for three months. Later she has broken legs etc multiple times.
 
How to get more obsessed/have more fun/get better in the long run  (1) Facebook
Obsession is the greatest force to make you train and push harder in climbing. It is about getting addicted to the adrenaline rush and just love everything about climbing; the challenges, the scenery, exploring, the community friendship, improving and performing on competitions and grades. It is about having the most fun and for some it is like building a wider pyramid to make it more solid so you can reach higher.

For others and especially for the most obsessed ones, reaching higher is not the ultimate goal. Instead, they just love everything about climbing equally much and just because of this, they have the most fun and this automatically take them to new levels.

Sure, in the short run, loosing weight or doing a short training program where you can measure progress is a great feeling. On the other hand some will feel they sacrifice something and that can create anxiety ones the performance trend stagnate or make a sudden dip.

Being a climber mainly driven by performance, it is a difficult task to stay obsessed for a long time and it is very hard to start appreciate all other aspects of climbing equally as much. One way to broaden your perspective is simply to set your goals on making your grade pyramid wider and instead of going for your first 8a, set the bar at doing twenty 7b out of which five onsight.
 
Euro Youth Cup Bouldering Soure  Facebook
99: Peter Ivanov BUL - Urska Repusic SLO
01: Davide Colombo ITA - Sandra Lettner AUT
03: Eliot Barnabe FRA - Naile MeignanFRA
Complete results
 
Boulder WC after three events  Facebook
1. Jernej Kruder SLO 227 - Miho Nonaka JPN 260
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 211 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 230
3. Alexey Rubtsov RUS 181 - Janja Garnbret SLO 180
4. Kokoro Fujii JPN 145 - Fanny Gibert FRA 148
5. Jakob Schubert AUT 115 - Jessica Pilz AUT 118

In the Complete results, IFSC have only counted the two best results. It should also be noted that Janja Garnbret will not do the whole WC in 2018. In comparison to 2017, Jessica Pilz is the only new name in the top, beside Jernej Kruder who was #8 last year. Among the Top-20, nine male are from Japan.
 


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