Lana Skušek, who two weeks ago did her first 8c, has ticked Talk is cheap! (8c) in Mišja Peč. Two months ago, the Slovenian was #8 in the Euro Championship.

” I tried Talk is Cheap for the first time just before Strelovod (8c) and it was the first project I envisioned for myself. Circumstances led me to climb Strelovod first, and then I went back to Talk is Cheap. During my first attempt, I managed to do all the moves. In the next few attempts, I changed the beta a bit, and I felt like I could climb it.

Yesterday, everything fell into place, and I succeeded. I’m very happy and proud of myself because I wouldn’t normally consider this type of route my style, and I think I proved a lot to myself with this achievement. Moreover, the conditions were far from perfect; the top was actually quite wet.”

Leo Vail has, after 19 sessions, completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. Since May 2023, the 25-year-old climber from Marseille has been based in Paris for a route-setting academy. After over a year away from the cliffs, he relocated to Nice two months ago. Passionate and more motivated than ever, he started his big 9a project although having just done one 8c. (c) Nicolas Vaillant

“I did my first 8c before my year in Paris. I shared my climbing time between Fontainebleau and training indoors. It was a good opportunity to progress. I felt stronger when I came back, so I decided to work a big big project. TTT was a dream line near house and in my perfect style. It was the first time I worked I route as this. I didn't expect it to happen like this.”