Eli Perry, who did first 8A only two years ago, has done Sound of Violence (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). Yesterday, we reported about his brother Miles, having done a 9a FA.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Yeah for sure, I’d been putting a lot of time in on the right exit, Pegasus and was getting really close but it started getting pretty cold in joes so I was constantly numbing out on the last couple moves. Sounds of violence is the left exit and is a few moves less than Pegasus so I figured it would be good to work on while it’s cold. I did the stand, sound of silence, which turned out to be a lot more in my style than the right exit and with the bottom moves already being pretty dialed in from my time on Pegasus I managed to get it done pretty quick. The day I sent it was only 23 degrees [-5 celsius] there were icicles hanging on the side of the Boulder, snow all over the ground but luckily the Boulder was dry and got it done first try of the day!

I would like to finish up Pegasus here pretty soon before it gets too cold and I’m also trying to go to Rocklands this summer so I’m going to be working a lot to save up for that. I’ll be doing less outdoor climbing and mostly training in the gym to get ready for my spring projects.

What is your climbing background?
My dad is a climber so I grew up around the sport, he would get us out every once in a while but I never got super psyched on it until about 4 years ago when I turned 15 and I did my first lead 5.10 and V3 Boulder outside, then I started going super consistently and got way into it. It’s great to have a brother that is also way into climbing, we climb all the time together and he helps push me to climb harder. We also work on the same climbs a lot which helps push both of us a makes the whole process way more enjoyable.

How does a normal training week look like?
I’ll be doing two days on one day off, first day just projecting on either the kilter or tension board and then second day I’ll be doing gym sets and then doing endurance training on the spray wall, core workouts, and do a little bit of lifting.

Mikel Linacisoro, who did his first 8c+ at age 13, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana and onsighted Gaur zortzi (8b+) in Mugarra. The 24-year-old frequently made VL/8a headlines as a teenager and his third and last 9a he sent almost 2.5 years ago. (c) Javi Pec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route like 2 years ago and already know all the moves and sequences. One month ago I moved to Catalunya, now I’m living here. So I decided to go and try it again last weekend and already fell on the last moves... and this weekend I went again and I climbed it 💪🏼😁

Can you tell us more about the comeback to the 9a scene?
Well.. there is no "comeback to climbing", hahaha, but last years I have been climbing much less in rocks becouse of the university, and I was mostly climbing indoors and competing with the spanish team. Now that I finished the university, I have time to climb a lot, so I moved to Barcelona and I’m training here with David (Albertos Gines Lopez coach), Alberto, and the rest of the team. During the week we train in the gym, and on weekends we climb outside! So now I hope to be back on 9a game much more hahaha.

What are your winter and 2025 years plan?
My plan for the winter and 2025 is to continue training hard during the week, and climbing on rocks in the weekends! I decided to stop bouldering competitions this year, so I can focus much more on lead/rocks... I want to compete on the Lead World Cup 2025 also, so it will be a mixed season between plastic and rocks. But its the first time that I’m focused 100% climbing and I’m looking fordward to see what we can do. One month of trainings here and I’m back in the 9a grade and 8b+ onsight, so I’m very happy and motivated for the season!!

What did you study and what about work?
I studied medicine, its my other passion in live haha climbing and medicine. Now I decided not to work and study anymore, because its impossible to share work in the hospital and climbing at my 100%. So it will be 2-3 years focus on climbing (we will see how much time, depending motivation and money for living haha) and then I will be back to medicine and back to work and 📚.

Miles Perry has, after some 25 sessions, done the FA of Path of least resistance (9a) in Logan Canyon. ”So psyched it’s finally done! Big thanks to Anthony Txertudi for envisioning this line nearly 15 years ago and the Logan climbing community for all the support on this one.”

The 21-year-old started climbing in 2019 and in just a year he flashed his first 8A boulder. Then in 2022 he made the FA of Unwind (8B+) which has not been repeated. Since the he has sent five 8c routes.

How has the recovery been since your rupture injury in February you mention on Instagram?
I got kind of lucky because I ruptured my a2 on my pinky finger which meant that I could still climb in a 3 finger drag and the path project happened to be mostly open hand pockets.

Also when it came to getting back to full health on my fingers I had to take a month of of climbing and then slowly started climbing on jugs or on 2 finger pockets which seemed to help my pinky even though I wasn’t climbing on it.

How come you skipped the 8c+ grade?
I didn’t intend to skip 8c+ it’s just that the bottom of Parh is shared with a climb called Super Whiteout which is 8c/+. It just finishes on a v6 we’re Path finishes on a V10 so I decided to call it 9a!

Jana Svecova reports from her one month trip to Brione where she sent Pamplemousse (8A) , Forever More sit (8A+) and Supertussi Low (8B+). In the VL ranking game she is #4, including having done one 8C boulder.

”From my last visit of Brione, there was one boulder I had started working on but couldn’t complete due to a pulley injury that prevented me from pulling properly. That boulder was Pamplemousse, originally graded 8A but now more commonly settled at 7C+. I managed to send it on my first day in Brione on my third attempt, and I couldn’t have asked for a better start to the trip.

The next boulder I chose as a "warm-up" to get familiar with the local rock was Forever More. I sent this one surprisingly quickly—in about 1.5 hours—so the trip continued really well! 🚀

Feeling confident after such a strong start, I dove straight into my main project: Supertussi Low (8B+). Low, because I started from two lowest holds possible and other guys sat under the boulder and started from where they can reach so they skipped one move.

I took a rest day before tackling it, as I had already spent three sessions on this boulder during my last visit to Brione. This year, I felt much stronger and thought the process would be quicker—but the reality was quite different.

I ended up spending almost my entire trip on this boulder, but the experience taught me so much. For example, if I can do the move but it feels hard and uncomfortable during the projecting process, keep seeking different beta until you figure out every detail and the moves feel easy/doable even if you add the moves before. Or how can I motivate myself again to finish a boulder when I’m frustrated that I can’t try any other boulder, especially since I thought I’d complete it in a maximum of three sessions on this trip.
 Once I regained my motivation, it took just two more sessions to send the boulder—an amazing moment!

Later the 27-year-old did, Graceland (8B+) in Allgäu, giving it a personal 8B grade.

”So the boulder Graceland you do the first move with your right hand and you go to quite a good hold. From there you do very stretchy move, with your left hand, to a lower hole and bump again to higher one and with your right hand again to the lower hole from where you continue up the boulder. I couldn 't these stretchy moves so I figured our my own beta where from the starting holds I do a cross into kinda okey hold, then grab a small, sharp crimp and I go to the lower hole with my right hand and with left to the higher one and I am in the same position as the guys that could reach those moves above. With my "short person" beta probably 8B?”