Loic Zehani, who earlier in 2024 has sent 15 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Taille Land (9a) in Baume canouille. ”Nice ultra physical route bolted by François. About thirty moves in big overhang and rather homogeneous with two harder sections. I fell about eight times at the top with a very bad and hard méthod, to redpoint directly with a méthod found by my father just before. So a dozen attempts instead of four!”

Marco Sappa, who this summer sent the mixed Sans liberty (8b+) at 3,800 m on Mont Blanc, has completed the third ascent of Tom Randall's La Pura Pura (8c) in Valle dell'Orco. The hybrid route begins with a 15 m 8a traverse, leading into the classic Greenspit (8b). Like the second ascensionist Pete Whittaker, Sappa’s personal grade is hard 8c.

”The first day of trying was the 10 September, I immediately remembered the complex movements of Greenspit. I had to really focus on the boulder traverse and the transition between the boulder and the cave, in which you had to be able to rest a bit and collect the friends needed for the second part.

It took me 7 days of hard work to figure it out and to be able to arrive at the last crux of Greenspit with enough energy to crush it! Pura Pura, it's a crazy endurance test piece, a really Pure line. My journey under that impressive roof is now over☺️! Grateful for how these kinds of climbs and performances keep me motivated, and with passion, effort and determination could fit in my life as a father, husband, alpine guide and Professional Climber.”

Matteo Gambaro, who sent his sixth 9a two years ago at age 47, has completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I've been trying it for a while... a few times over the years but never with continuity and without ever understanding much about it. Last spring I spent several days on the route managing to find a good setting for my characteristics and solve the crux section with a hybrid method between the male solution, definetly too physical for me, usually used, and that of women or mutant kids, too compact for me..

I managed to break the line with a rest but at the beginning of the crux section and the goal remained far away. In August a bad back injury and no autumn season but a long period of pain, fatigue and struggle to recover above all the possibility to climb on such overhanging routes and with the use of the controversial kneepads. At the end of August, after having recovered and climbed some routes and considering myself now healed, I decide to try again. After two days on the route to regain the feeling and re-internalize the sections, unexpectedly I manage to improve and for the first time I feel close to the climb. I decide to try it continuously but I realize that at my age and with my current level I have to learn to manage myself and not try too hard... I risk overtraining quickly or worse, breaking down. So I dedicate one day every 4-5 to the route and gnaw at holds until I always fall in the final two moves. Something always happens..too dry, too wet, no wind, too tired... Too poor

The rains are starting to be frequent and the route risks getting wet and goodbye season. Let's try again, let's take it as training. Yesterday everything finally went as I repeated in my mind every evening and eve