Featuring Giuliano Cameroni, Daisuke Ichimiya, Clément Lechaptois, Marine Thevenet and Diego Cameroni doing "New King Lines" in Cresciano up to 8C.
Tom Bolger reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Mr Big 9a in Margalef, saying it is "probably the best route I’ve ever bolted." (c) Esteban Lahoz
Please describe the route and why it is so good?
It is an independent route, over 25m long and probably 35 degrees in the steepest section. The route has a great flow! It is very continuous with two distinct jump moves, and with only one rest on the whole route forcing the climber to move efficiently and quickly, so the climbing flows beautifully :)
Earlier this year, Tom has done two 9a/+ FAs also in Margalef where he lives for a couple of years. Previously he has told 8a that the reason for him sending more projects is that due to Covid-19, he has travelled less back to the U.K. where he works with rope access. Currently, he is studying to become a climbing guide in Spain.
The Olympic male Combined qualification is scheduled for August 3rd and the Top-8 final for August 5th. Adam Ondra has had the Olympics as his big goal since 2019, when he for the first time since 2015 completed most of the World Cup. In 2019 and 2020 he won all four Lead WCs he participated in and in Bouldering he was #2 overall in 2019. (c) Lukas Biba
How do you plan to train, travel and compete in the last six months before the Olympics and how does Covid-19 impact your training?
I am mostly just planning to stay at home, training and going for a few World Cups before the Olympics. (if they won't be cancelled). As I am a professional, fortunately, I have access to the gyms, so apart from travel restrictions, I cannot complain.
Have you considered just skipping Speed training due to the multiplication format?
Skipping speed could have been an option for me, but improvement of speed might be beneficial in certain styles of bouldering and that is why I do train speed.
Who do you train together with and what does a training partner mean to you?
Rishat Khaibulin lives in Brno, so we train together quite often and besides, there are a few other climbers from the Czech team that I occasionally train together, mostly bouldering on a spraywall. Still, I do most of my training sessions without a training partner. Proper training partner would be great, not only to boost motivation when you feel tired, but also for learning from each other, most importantly in modern bouldering. Unfortunately, Martin Stranik who would be the perfect training partner lives quite far away and we get to train together rarely.
Who are your three favourites for getting a medal?
Really hard to predict in this format.
The format is based on multiplication of the results in the three disciplines. In other words, even if you get a good result in all disciplines, 4 * 4 * 4 = 64 points, you will probably not get a medal. With the multiplication, it is better to be 1 * 7 * 8 = 56 points. Overall, out of the 8 male finalist, probably at least six of them have good chances of winning one discipline, i.e. getting a medal.
Loic Zehani, who the last year has done five FAs 9a and harder, has done the FA of Les Colos Fachos 8c+/9a in Orgon.
"It is a route of about twenty natural movements bolted by Olivier Bert. There is the first section in approximately 8A boulder followed by another in approximately 7B+ boulder."
What are your next projects?
Currently, I am trying a combination between Sachidananda and Bronx which should be 9a+ or 9b and I fell on the last move last Saturday. In the Calanques at the Grotte de l'Ours, I try Electoman (it's an old big 8c+ by Rémy Bergasse) but a hold has broken in the crux and it should be 9a+ now. And a few other projects all over the place. Otherwise, my big long-term project is located at the Canal in Orgon, it makes 80 movements and will be 9b+.
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Insta that he has done First Ley 9a+ in Margalef after six days of projecting. (c) Eduardo Ruano Li
During the last 12 months, the 21-year-old has done 17 routes 9a to 9b and he is #1 in the 8a ranking game. Overall, he has done 44 routes 8c+/9a and harder, meaning that he is #7 in that all time list. Next up is doing Chris Sharma’s First Round First Minute 9b. Here is a shortinterview from January when he did his fourth 8C boulder.
Hugo Parmentier, who has previously done eight routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of L'hygiène de l'assassin in Seynes. ©2021 Aurèle Brémond
"After having done "Ça chauffe" 9a I checked out a project wich is the right exit of the classique 8c "La métaphysique des tubes". It's my first experience investing time in a non established route. It took me four days and more tries than "Ça chauffe". But I hesitantly proposed 9a because a friend discovered a providencial thumb on the crux hold. I only used it on the next sending go. Will see what are the next ones thoughts. Even if it's really bouldery the rest of the route is still pretty resistant with perfect classic mouvs."
Fred Rouhling put up Akira as the world's first 9b in 1995. The first repeats were done by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez last November, and they considered it to be 9a.
As other hard routes from that time put up by Fred, such as Hugh 9a, have been confirmed, he had a hard time understanding the downgrading. "I don’t know but limestone cracks. Perhaps the holds became bigger. When Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada came to try. They thought there was a very big difference between Akira and Hugh...😭."
Fred considered the starting boulder to be 8B, while the repeaters considered it 7C. It should also be noted that the repeaters respected Fred's style by not using knee pads, while they claimed it could be even easier using them. Last week, Fred reflected about the downgrading on Insta (in french). In general, he thinks grades are so vague that you should not confirm or downgrade. Akira is not 9b or 9a, instead, anyone can suggest a grade.
Clément Lechaptois has done his third 8C, Crystal Ship in Cresciano, after five sessions. Giuliano Cameroni did the first ascent in January and actually, Lechaptois fell on the last move three times on the same day. Video is coming up on Mellow.
What is next?
Lechaptois (pictured): To pursue the development of my company SmartBoard. We plan to go back to Swiss for 10 days, and some nice projects in Rioupéroux and Chamonix in France.
Cameroni has previously done 17 boulders 8C and harder out of which seven FA, including two 8C+'. In other words, he is one of the most profiled FA boulder in the world, although just being 23-years-old. He is also one of the founders and editors of the Mellow Youtube channel.
Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done Le Cadafist in Saint-Léger. It was FAed by Gérome Pouvreau in 2017 as a 9a but later a tufa broke. (c) Julia Cassou
Noteworthy is that Cedric was one of the best lead competition climbers in the world in between 2001 to 2013. He has won one European Championship as well as two World Cups. The best result in a World Championship is #3. In other words, the 36-year-old should be considered as one of the best climbers in the world during the last 20 years, as he also has done 40+ routes 9a and harder.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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