Laura Rogora onsights American Hustle (8c)

Laura Rogora, who during the last five months has sent nine 9a’s, has onsighted American Hustle (8c) in Oliana. The 23-year-old has previously onsighted two 8c’s and her ticklist is superior among the female. (c) crimp.films

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
I am in Oliana for one week. On saturday I tried Papichulo (9a+) but I got a really bad split and yesterday I felt really bad on the route so I decided to switch on something easier. I didn’t start with the idea of onsighing it but then change my mind and I decided to give it all. It was a long battle😆 the route is perfect for onsight because there are some boulders divided by good rests.

Adam Shahar does The Process (8C+)

Adam Shahar reports on Instagram that he has completed the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods’ The Process (8C+) in Buttermilks.

The 19-year-old, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, has previously during the last six months sent his first five 8C’s. His current big project is Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and after a good session last week, he sent Squoze (8B+).

BOW - Maximum safety and smoothness while climbing

Advertorial: BOW is Ocun's new assisted braking belay device, designed for sport climbing and gym training. Reliable and ergonomic, it ensures smooth belaying a…

Ondra compares the crux of Silence with Soudain Seul

Chaz Ott has gotten an answer from Adam Ondra directly in the forum. (c) Petr Chodura”If Ondra does read this, I'd love to ask him directly why he considers thi…

Alizee Blass, 11, ticks Guere d'usure (8c)

Alizee Blass, sister of Theo Blass, who sent a 9a at age 12, has done Guère d'usure (8c) in Claret. (c) Laurent Dormont

Her father Vladimir Arnaoudov gives us the background story of her send. “Guere d'usure is the king line of Claret - one of the most beautiful and esthetic lines in the South of France. It is about 30 meters long and has two distinct parts: a 7a+, approach to a very good rest and then a beautiful overhanging prow with 3 hard sections. The last hard section is the crux. The beta that grown-ups use is too reachy for kids. Alizee's brother Theo found a different beta when he did the route 4 years ago consisting of about 15 moves mostly on bad pinches and vertical sloppers with very bad feet. The moves are quite dynamic and precarious and require a lot of precision.

Alizee is 11. She has been climbing since she was 4 - she started at the same time as her brother Theo. She first tried Guere d'usure last winter when she was 10, just for fun, without expectations. We knew that the moves were doable as her brother had done the route when he was shorter than her. She quickly managed to do all the sections and started trying to redpoint the route. She got very close last March, but then got injured and could not climb for a couple of months. She started trying the route again this winter (the crag is south facing and unclimbable on warm sunny days) and got very close to sending it a few times but given the precarious nature of the crux, she kept falling because of small mistakes, imprecisions or foot slips. In January this year Alizee had a bad fall on a warm up route and injured her foot, She could not put climbing shoes on for another 3-4 weeks. When she finally recovered she was more motivated than ever. Last Sunday, after a quick warm up on a 6b+ she sent the route on her first go.”

Adam Ondra ticks Soudain Seul (9A) and flashes 8B+

Adam Ondra reports on his website that he has repeated Soudain seul (9A) in Fontainebleau, in just five sessions. The next day he flashed Ubik assis (8B) and La Ligne de Bête (8B+). (c) Petr Chodura

5th session I felt perfect. It was cloudy and windy day and the rock felt very sticky. I was close on my first two tries, but not enough. On my 3rd try of the day I put up some of the most memorable fights and made it to the top.

I feel very happy and proud about this send, it means particularly a lot to me especially after the last few seasons when I always felt very close to doing some relevant ascents, but it never really quite happened. Sending this in 5th session is the icing on the cake!

Shauna Coxsey does Mito sit (8B+)

Shauna Coxsey has repeated Jun Shiba’s Mito sit (8B+) in Sintra after just two sessions. The 31-year-old, with eleven World Cup golds under her belt, has done five 8B+’, out of which four the last year. (c) Ed Robinson

Mito is one of the most impressive lines I’ve ever seen! The boulder was so much bigger and much steeper than I expected and the holds so much smaller! It’s a striking line straight through a steep face on a huge boulder, the start moves are on holds that are so small they only just work.

It took me a few hours to figure out the start moves. They are super feisty! I had a few link goes but was a bit too tired to piece it together. After a good warm-up on my second session, I got close on my first go from the start but fired off one of the easier moves towards the end. It was a good test for my composure and focus to send it but luckily it came together a few attempts later. And just in time as my skin was suffering! Sintra bites!”