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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
BMI monitoring by IFSC
During the last month, several top climbers have come forward talking about their eating disorder. IFSC have for several years been aware of the problem and there is a medical commission which has the goal, "to protect Sport Climbing from deliberately induced underweight climbers - associated with e…
How to reduce the underweight problem?
Lately, many athletes have spoken out about their previous eating disorder problems. Such information campaigns are good but the question is whether this will have enough impact making successful super skinny climbers gain weight? Alizée Dufraisse has just published her story on Insta, which we foll…
Organic is voted best crash pad again
Based on 1 500+ unique votes in our "Best Crashpad 2021" poll, Organic got superior results. In brackets the result for the 2019 poll, which is more or less the same. It should be noted that in 2015 Organic got 16 % and that all others (except for Flashed) had better results. 30% Organic (30 % in 2…
IFSC ready to decide on two zones in Bouldering
After talking to route setters and IFSC officials this winter it seems they are now close to agreeing that there will be two zones in Bouldering starting from 2022. The advantages are that two zones will make it possible to separate better and also that it makes the comp fairer for the athletes. Fur…
Meiringen 16/4 confirmed
IFSC has confirmed that the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen 16-17/4 will take place. Last year, there were no Boulder World Cups. "The “Addendum to IFSC Rules”, redacted in 2020 by the Climbing during COVID-19 Working Group, is currently being reviewed and updated." One difficult issue to resolve is …
Paul Robinson Road To Recovery #2
From the 8a interview two weeks ago. "I lost 50’percent of the strength in my right arm about 6 months ago and tried P.T. etc but nothing helped because the nerve was impinged by the herniated disc. So they do they had to take 2 discs out in my neck and replace them with fake ones. It happened from …
Air bags part of the climbing future?
In an emergency situation, you could jump from up to 25 meters into a giant airbag, roll over and walk back home. Such airbags are also increasingly found in sk…
Innovative 9A tricks by Lorenzi
Simon Lorenzi just made the FA of Soudain Seul, aka The Big Island assis, 9A, in Fontainbleau after some 25 sessions. In the end, the Belgian had to come up wit…