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Exciting end of the semi in Briancon  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of a slow semi until Anak Verhoeven was timed out and pulled down as she was getting ready for dynoing to the top. Then, suddenly, a heavy rain storm started as Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges started to climb and luckily they both made it to the finals as the wall begun to get wet from above. If the rain storm would have come just some minuters earlier, the whole semi might have been cancelled. (c) Eddie Fowke

Noteworthy is that 50 % of the female finalists come from Slovenia and Domen Skofic is leading among the male. It should also be mentioned that most of the best Japanese and Jain Kim from Korea did not participate due to the Asian cup coming up. Nevertheless, Japan did have seven guys into the semi. Complete results

8A+ (B) by Anna Liina Laitinen  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Liina Laitinen reports on Insta that she has done Daniel Woods’ Fragile Steps 8A+ (B) in Rocklands. (c) Jess Talley Previously, Anna has done several 8c+’ as well as 8b onsight.

This year I wanted to go somewhere where I haven’t been before and Rocklands is a good place to go on a summer time and it was a new one for me. I also wanna get more powerrrrr :)

I learned alot on this trip and everything I’ve learned will help me on sport climbing. I’d also love to do trad this year and get better as a climber in general, challenge myself in a different levels etc!!!”

8a+ flash and much more by Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has during the last two weeks done ten routes 8a to 8b including four flashes where La Ballade d’abdallah 8a+ in St Leger sticks out. Previously the 13 year old has done two 8B boulders, being 11 years old, and one 8B+ being 12.

Ondra's skin and onsight school in Canmore  Facebook

8b by Cathy Wagner (52) again  (3) Facebook

Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Précipice de Corbière. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of fact, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go.

"Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"

Briancon Paraclimbing Highlights  (1) Facebook

Robinson's exploring SA video  Facebook

8C FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson, who has done some 900 boulders 8A and harder, has done the FA of Pirate’s Code in Three Corners. In total, Paul has put up 75 boulders here out of which 26 8A and harder. Three Corners is located

"Words cannot really describe this one. It has been a dream of mine to climb this boulder since i first found it in 2014. 16, 17, 18 were spent working this monster of a line and now it is complete. the king line in my favorite place in the world. does it really get any better than this!? Climbing is such an incredible thing and it feels really good to complete this goal after thinking about it for so so long. *I have eliminated the stand start from last year since it is a slightly arbitrary start. the full line is the line and now is THE PIRATE'S CODE! I look forward to some other strong guys trying this climb one day! I only ever tried it by myself so it will be great to see what others think of it :)"

8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done Demonstrating my Style 8c+ in Frankenjura on his fourth go. The 17 year old is one of the 8a members that are ticking most routes and boulders and just the last three weeks, he has done 16 routes 8a and harder.

9a+ FA by Jorge Díaz-Rullo  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Díaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that has done the FA of Panorama 9a+ in Patones, Spain. ©Germán González

"Yes! After a lot of days trying it, getting the good betas and even failing ... Today I've done maybe the hardest route I've climbed so far! It's never easy to climb a first ascent, and much less if the betas are yours ... I'm already wishing to someone's repeat! I will miss the wall but Panorama 9a +? is already on my list !!

In the ranking game Jorge #1 in Spain and #5 in the world ranking.

9a+ in Rodellar by Piotr Schab  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ in Rodellar. "What a way to finish the trip! Extra extension, in my opinion makes a big difference. Super complicated route, to get to know all the tricks seems to be a crux. First ascent of this combination I guess."

8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 8c in 2016 being 11 years old, has done the fourth ascent of Szydercze zwierciadło 8c+ in Podzamcze. video

"It is very short - 5 quickdraws, and 12 cruxy moves on slopy mono holes, so it is quite hard to find the beta there. The holds were so bad, that I couldn't even use my chalk bag. But when the beta was finally found, i understood, that the hardest work is still undone. For example, I found the beta on the third day of climbing, and I climbed the route only on the 8-th day. It is due to the required accuracy of the moves. If i will put the leg a centimeter higher, I won't be able to do the move. And exactly the same situation happened with hands."

Pilz and Ghisolfi win another perfect show in Chamonix  (19) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Stefano Ghisolfi were the only ones topping out the great final routes in Chamonix in front of 10 000 spectators. For Jessica it was her first WC victory after having been second six times. For Stefano, it was his fourth WC win. (C) Eddie Fowke

1. Jessica Pilz AUT - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
2. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
3. Jain Kim KOR - Alex Megos GER
Complete results.

Battle Cat 8c/+ by Sarah Kampf (37)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Kampf, who pre- viously has sent four 8c's, has done Battle Cat 8c/+ in Frankenjura after some 15 days of work. © Lars Decker

"Battle Cat is the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. The line is amazing and with its ca. 30 meters it is really uni- que for Fran- ken. It requi- res both endu- rance and max power, the single parts are pretty varied. Clipping the anchor of Battle Cat means a lot to me and I am very grateful for the people who supported this journey, it wouldn't have been possible without them."

How can you explain continuing being on your peak being 37 and with two small kids?
Hm, not quite sure, it is probably several reasons. I love climbing so much and I am really motivated. I have great climbers surrounding me who are inspiring me a lot. Furthermore, I am lucky to only work parttime which gives me time to train. And most important: I get awesome support by my husband. I don't follow a specific training regime but when time is too short to climb outdoors I often do some finger board training at home.

8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually  (11) Facebook

Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Anak Verhoeven and Akiyo Noguchi topped both qualification routes in Chamonix. Other then that, all big names but Max Rudigier #76 and Julia Chanourdie #32made it to the semi. Interesting is that eight male Japanese qualified Top-19 and among the female four made it to the semifinal. In total, 92 female and 111 male participated. Complete results

Chamonix quaification  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Lead WC in Chamonix has started. Updated results You can also stay updated through the IFSC Lead App. The semi and final tomorrow will be streamed 10.30 and 20.30. (c) Eddie Fowke

8C (B+) by Dave Graham in Rocklands  (2) Facebook

Dave Graham (36), one of the best climbers in the world since 1999, reports on Insta that he has done Daniel Woods' Noise vs Beauty suggestion an uppgrade to 8C in Rocklands. "After battling with this rig off and on last season it was my primary objective upon returning here in Rocklands; it was an intense mental and physical journey to persevere, stay focused, not get distracted by the plethora of new boulders to climb :), and stick that last sloper from the start."

9a (+) almost flashed by Adam Ondra  (10) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has almost flashed Evan Hau's 45 meter Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon giving it a personal grade of 9a. First he fell by the 4th bolt due to a wet hold. "I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go." (c) Sonnie Trotter

In February, Adam flashed and confirmed 9a+ for Super Crackinette. In 2012, he also flashed a 9a+ but suggested a personal down grade as he did with his first 9a onsight. Adam is well known for being honest giving personal grades that are later confirmed. In total Adam has now done some 200 routes originally graded 9a and harder out of which 182, he has taken 9a credit for.

Babsi Zangerl doing Speed Integrale 9a  Facebook

8A+' by Alizée Dufraisse in Rocklands  Facebook

Alizée Dufraisse has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Lèopard cave and Law and Order 8A+. "I will be here the whole summer. I have some hard projects that I tried last year.

Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
Gus Carter

Mullentino V6/7A
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Stefan Billmeier

Bamboozalled, V7 Laos/T
hakhek - a perfect bloc
, wonderful line, solid
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
Michaela Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
Jonathan Shen

Flofo Grunewald on Fata
Morgana (8a).
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Kyparissi  Facebook
Provisional Combined Ranking 2018  Facebook
As a preparation for the Olympic Games qualification, IFSC has changed the Overall ranking. Only athletes that have participated in at least two events per discipline are included in the ranking. In other words, in the below ranking, Tomoa Narasaki's score of 8 is based on 1 * 1 * 2 * 4 * 1 *1 (Boulder/Lead/Speed). His best result is Speed is #31 but as none of the 30 higher ranked have participated in also Lead and Boulder, he is the #1 ranked in Speed. Noteworthy is that 9 out of the Top-8*2 come from Japan.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 8 - Miho Nonaka 24
2. Jakob Schubert 192 - Akiyo Noguchi 120
3. Kokoro Fujii 270 - Iuliia Pantaleeva 3 528
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 960 - Mei Kotake 8 064
5. Jernej Kruder 9 504 - Petra Klingler 8 600
6. Kai Harada 10 800 - Futaba Ito 15 360
7. Yufei Pan 21546 - Jain Kim 16 016
8. Keita Dohi 45 696 - Elena Krasovskaia 17576
Complete results
"11.7.8 Only competitors who compete in a minimum of 2 (two) World Cup competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) in the current season shall be given an Overall World Cup Ranking. When a competitor participates to more than 2 (two) competitions in a discipline than the best 2 (two) results in that discipline shall be selected.
11.7.9 The Overall World Cup Ranking shall be calculated as follows:
i. Each eligible competitor shall be awarded “Ranking Points” for each completed competition equal to the relative ranking calculated by ranking in ascending order (i.e. lower values are better) only competitors satisfying Article 11.7.8.
ii. A Ranking Point Total shall be calculated for each relevant competitor by
multiplying together the Ranking Points awarded for each eligible competition.
iii. Each relevant competitor shall be ranked in ascending order of the Ranking Point Total calculated for each competitor (i.e. lower values are better)."
Chamonix Finals Highlights  Facebook
Free topo for Silvapark  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is giving away a free topo for Silvapark bouldering in their app! With the promo code BUMERANG, you can unlock the area, which is part of the Alpen en Bloc climbing guidebook by Panico.

authors: Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago
picture by Daniel Horwath
New topo for Rocklands with 2500+ boulders  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTonight there will be a release party for the new topo of Rocklands with 2500+ problems in 480 pages. Livin' Large has been given 8C+ by author Scott Noy. Grades have been updated and for morpho (height dependent), slash grades have been used.
Ondra's recovery from an 8 meter ground fall  Facebook
Adam Ondra did have an eight meter ground fall in February. Here is his recovery story from his Physio/Osteopath Klaus Isele.
Pringle does the Nest 8C after 50+ days  Facebook
Olympic candidates starting to Speed fast  (3) Facebook
During the Speed qualification in Chamonix we could see the Olympic candidates moving fast in Speed beside 12 guys in between 5.70 and 6.15.

6.72 Mickael Mawem
6.97 Tomoa Narasaki
7.12 Manuel Cornu
7.21 Yushiyuki Ogata

9.18 Elena Krasovskaia
9.28 Miho Nonaka
9.33 Claire Buhrfeind

It should be noted that three years ago 8a talked to some of the best speed climbers in the world and they did not think it was possible to get below 7.5 seconds without focusing for a long time on Speed. To get below 7 seconds they thought was almost impossible if not mainly focusing on Speed.
8C FA by Paul Robinson getting closer to 1 000 8A's  (5) Facebook
Paul Robinson has done yet another FA video from South Africa where he usually spend his summers. Just yesterday he did the FA of yet another 8C after three years of projecting.

How is your bouldering lifestyle and motivation nowadays?
As you know I am very dedicated to making it to 1000 climbs 8A and harder. This has been a dream of mine now for a long time and it would be a dream come true to do it! I have less than 100 left now. I really am focused now on getting home and training. I want to get very strong for the fall. I made a list of 10 climbs that I really wanted to do before the end of the year a few weeks ago. I am not sure if I will get to try them all this year but this will be my goal and motivate my training even more this august/september.

Robinson's Rocklands Montage  Facebook

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