Katie Lamb and Keenan Takahashi scale Equanimity (8C)

Katie Lamb reports on Instagram that she and Keenan Takahashi have repeated Carlo Traversi’s Equanimity (8C) at Kirkwood Lake. "This journey was almost entirely a mental challenge, which feels emblematic of a broader narrative in my recent scaling. I’ve been on a skill building mission to try and make this low angle tech style a strength. The crux for me was the process of losing trust and then building back to a point of tenuous belief…whatever that might mean to each scaler. In the end, I found my equanimous mind."

The ultra-technical route ascends a series of angled seams on a stunning 9 meters granite face and demands a combination of tight, awkward layback moves, delicate smearing, and precise body positioning and balance. Last year, James Webb did the second ascent and commented, ”Potentially a contender for the hardest technical boulder in the world?”

Katie has been one of the very best female boulderers for quite some years and in 2023, she did three 8B+’ as well as Box Therapy (8C). Here is a podcast where she discusses her training on how to break into new grades.

Jonathan Siegrist FA’s Walk the Line (9a)

Jonathan Siegrist has done the FA of Walk the Line (9a) at The Monastery. "(Grand Ol’ Opry Direct) Really special day climbing this awesome route with my Dad on belay, bringing back so many memories of trying hard at this beautiful cliff. A big fight when I sent, fighting the pump until the bitter end. Came together much faster than expected so I hesitate with the grade, repeaters can confirm - and hopefully repeaters come, because this thing is mega! Thanks to Tommy for opening the route for me to climb on!" (c) Tara Kerzhner

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your memories from the Monastery?
Last week I returned to this incredibly special cliff, with the blessing of Tommy Caldwell to try a direct start project to ‘Grand Ole Opry’ he bolted. The Monastery was a super formative place for me way back when. I climbed my first 5.13 [7c+] here in 2006. The year I started trying ‘The Opry’ (2007), I couldn’t imagine actually sending so my goal was just to reach the first rest at the 4th bolt - even this was quite a mission. As far as I was concerned (and still am) TC was the pinnacle of American climbing, and with the Estes Park Valley guidebook in hand (one of the few guidebooks I owned back then), I was certain that the Vestibule at the Monastery was the sickest crag on earth. For many years I proclaimed that ‘The Opry’ was the best 5.14 [8b+] in the country.

Now, returning with a lot more experience I can say that I was probably right. This crag no doubt shaped my understanding of hard climbing and set the bar for top quality, it was such a joy to relive the brutal crimps and intense nature of this crag while trying the low start. It adds 30 feet of new climbing (nails 8c) into ‘The Opry’. Last Friday I sent the route with an awesome fight, my Dad on belay - it was the first time we had climbed together outside for many years (and the last time we climbed together at the Monastery he was fighting his way to sending the hyper classic, ‘Psychatomic’). It felt like so many things came full circle this past week climbing out there. I even bolted a new project that’s sure to be insanely hard… Massive thanks again to Tommy for inviting me to try the route and for a lifetime of inspiration, and to my homies Tara Kerzhner and Neely Quinn and (and Dad) for getting out! No name or grade yet for the rig but I can say it’s every bit as worthy as the others at this brilliant little wall… and definitely very hard.

OCÚN Twist Tech Eco: The First Eco-Friendly Harness

Advertorial: In 2023, we proudly introduced Twist Tech Eco, the world’s first eco-friendly climbing harness, with 82 % recycled and eco-friendly materials. Its …

Janja Garnbret gets another superior WC win

Janja Garnbret won her 29th Lead World Cup title and she was superior in all three rounds. Over the 25 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has co…