Chaehyun Seo (17) had topped all three routes coming into the final. Being last out she demonstrated climbing perfection and easily surpassed the crux where both Natalia Grossman and Laura Rogora fell at the same move, with Grossman getting the silver after getting there faster. Rogora had lost time having gone for a dynamic move three times but missed it but miraculously manage to hang on while she was falling three times. Fourth was Jessica Pilz who actually skipped hold #37 which Grossman and Rogora controlled and instead touched hold #38 before falling. It should be mentioned again that the route setting in Moscow has been spot on in all rounds for both the men and women in both Boulder and Lead.
1. Chaehyun Seo KOR Top (c) Dimitris Tosidis
2. Natalia Grossman USA 37
3. Laura Rogora ITA 37
4. Jessica Pilz AUT 36+
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 35+
6. Natsuki Tanii JPN 32+
7. Dinara Fakhritdonova RUS 32+
8. Salome Romain FRA 25+
In yet another great spectacular show in Moscow, Jakob Schubert topped out and was ahead over Luka Potocar, who had also topped it, due to countback. Jakob had to fight his way up but had full control on the last dyno to the top which Luka just barely did. Last out was Hamish McArthur who just the last month had won two golds in the Youth World Champion. Taking a very long rest just five moves from the top, sitting in the sixth position, he started to move and the clock was ticking. With some ten seconds left, he went for the top jug but was like three cm short meaning he got the bronze.
Fourth was Martin Stranik, the silver medalist in Boulder World Championship in 2007, who had his best comp season ever being 31-years-old. Fifth was Tomoa Narasaki and sixth, Sebastian Halenke who actually found a no-hands rest just five moves from the top.
1. Jakob Schubert AUT Top (c) Dimitris Tosidis
2. Luka Potocar SLO Top
3. Hamish McArthur GBR 46+
4. Martin Stranik CZE 46
5. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 46
6. Sebastian Halenke GER 44+
7. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 44+
8. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 34+
Jakob Schubert has previously won the Lead World Championship in 2012 and 2018. Including also his 19 victories in Lead World Cups, he is the best male Lead climber in history.
” “I really had to fight hard on this route,” said Schubert. “I didn’t really like the technical part on the slab, I felt like I didn’t climb so well, but somehow I recovered. Obviously, I knew there was a top already, so I knew I had to give everything to reach the top hold. I still don’t know how, but I reached it!”
Loic Zehani has done his fourth 9a+ FA in 2021, Anesthésie in Fetid Beach, which is a 60 move link up of old routes he has done. The 19-year-old, who did his first 9a in 2015, has done 35 routes 9a to 9b.
"Anesthésie is a resistance route on one and two fingers pockets. The feet are rare. It starts with "Corrida", crosses "Genocide", goes up in "H5N1" and crosses on the beautiful pillar of "Syndrome". "Corrida" is a 9a bolted and climbed by my father in 2010. It is very violent on the fingers. In 2019 it took me 6 sessions to get to the anchor and I found it hard! Note that there is still the possibility of "playing" again by starting with an 8a boulder or an 8b boulder in a roof with one-finger pockets."
1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)
karoline sinnhuber has done her 34th 8A+, Zimalis Alexandra in Silvretta and there is a great video on her Insta. In the 8a ranking game, the former competition climber is #3. "Nice one! Morphooooo, but climbs nice with the short girl beta‘. Left crimp needs so much skin :(" (c) Fabian Leu
Gianluca Vighetti, who two weeks ago become the youngest in the world to have done a 9a, has done the Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a in Arco.
"Last weekend, after TCT (9a) went to Arco to try Puro Dreaming. I thought that route would have been kinda my style because it is endurance with good rests in between. After my first try, I understood that it was absolutely possible and easier than TCT. Today the weather was terrible, all the holds were humid. Anyhow, on my first try, I fell higher than all previous attempts but the hold was completely wet, so I tried to dry it with some paper towels and it worked. Two hours later I did it in the rain. I'm really happy because I did this dream line in only two weekends."
What are your plans for this autumn and winter?
Maybe Thunder ribes 9a. It starts with Puro Dreaming's first crux and then there is a boulder at the end. This Winter at Sessi, a crag near my house, there are some bouldery routes that I want to free, from 8b+/8c to maybe 9a I also think that Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) is possible but really hard.
Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Team frisouille 9a+ in La Balme. "It is a very old technical project bolted by Cyrille Bouchard, a local climber. It is 30 meters long and shares the first five bolts with an 8c. I tried it for the first time in 2013 and since I have tried it every September when it is all dry and have cold conditions. So happy to finish the job 🙏"
Previously, the 31-year-old has done 27 9a's and one 9a+. The latter was a FA he did in 2015, which is still unrepeated and that goes also for some of his 12 9a FAs.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Hamish McArthur was the big sensation in the semi, being the only one topping. The 19-year-old who was #7 in Boulder in Moscow, has previously been #19 as his b…
Chaehyon Seo (17), who has been Top-3 in all of her previous seven World Cups, was the only athlete to top out both the qualification routes in Moscow. Natalia Grossman, Laura Rogora and Lucka Rakovec were runner-ups topping out one route each. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki won the qualification ah…
Kokoro Fujii was the only one topping the first boulder. In fact, he flashed it at the same time no other did get the zone. Then, after he had done the followin…
Three days of climbing, yoga, film screenings and live music, a true celebration of mountaineering culture. Siurana Climbing Festival is a great opportunity to enjoy this rock climbing paradise with the community. Tickets on sale here.
Tomoa Narasaki made three tops in seven tries during the semifinal which was one attempt less than Manu Cornu in second place. The other four qualifying to the finals, 16.40 Euro Time, were; Nimrod Marcus, Kokoro Fujii, Anze Peharc and Alexey Rubtsov. Noteworthy is that Japan got four males in the T…
Yannick Flohé and Kokoro Fujii won their respective group in the World Championship Boulder qualification, with Kokoro the only one topping out all five boulders. Tomoa Narasaki and Mejdi Schalck were the tied #3. Only seven of the Olympians participated out of which three did not make the Top-20 se…
Natalia Grossman and Brooke Raboutou won their respective group when the female Boulder qualification started. Many of the big stars like all the three medalist…
Natalia Kalucka and Danyil Boldyrev are the new Speed World Champions. Boldyrev, who also got the gold in 2014, won his first final race with 0.004 seconds and …
We are happy to release an updated and improved version of the gallery feature. With this new release, we've re-introduced the upload and edit features (in prof…