Kacper Heretyk, who did his first 9a in May, has sent Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč.
Can you tell us more about sending your second 9a?
It was truly a long battle; it took me several trips, but I have great memories of each one. I love this kind of climbing, where you not only face the challenges of the route but also challenge yourself. The longer I spend on a route, the more emotions I experience during the process of figuring out the moves.
It's a fantastic way to get to know yourself better. That’s exactly how it was this time—once I managed to send the key boulder problem in one go, I made it to the top.
As for the details of the ascent, I completed the route using kneepads. I don't think they affected the difficulty—it’s just that the hooks are very demanding and extremely suited to my style.
When it comes to the number of attempts, it's hard for me to say exactly, but I spent about 10 climbing days on the route (not counting attempts on easier routes that were part of the process).
Yu Okumura reports on Instagram that he has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa
Previously he has sent, Fuck The system (9a), Chilam Balam (9b), Gancho Perfecto (9a) and Joe Mama (9a+). When it comes to boulders, last year he did La force tranquille (8C).
Alexey Pinchuk has compiled a comprehensive list of all 9a+ and harder ascents from the past 30 years. In 2021 and 2022, well over 100 of these extreme ascents …
Bayes Wilder made his first headlines sending an 8c+ as well as four 8A+’ at age 10. Working on the grade pyramid, he waited until he turned 13 to match his fat…
Vojta Trojan, with twelve 9a and beyond climbs under his belt, has ticked Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef. ”So good! Thanks Tom for such an experience. About the grade I would say rather soft, but it’s my style so I have no idea honestly. And honestly I don’t care so much.. this climb is just amazing.” (c) Vojta Ruta
Can you tell us more about the trip and the send of Mr. Big?
I’m so syked to be back here in Margalef. I almost forgot how much I like the climbing here! We’re very lucky with weather our whole stay here - climbing in decent conditions in the sun in Espadelles sector. Sometimes it’s too warm, but it gives you the vacation vibes which is not too bad!
I tried Mr. Big like a side project and got very close to send it very fast, falling on the very last hard move just 3 moves below the anchor. That try I opened a split and had to wait a bit to heal it.
In the end I sent the route with a tape, which is maybe the first one for me :D
Piotr Schab has been on a ten days trip to Alicante where he has onsighted nine routes 8a+ and beyond including
2is evolution (8b+)and El Ultimo Mono (8b+). In total, the 28-year-old Pole has onsighted 36 routes 8b+ and beyond meaning he is a contendor to be the runner-up in the world after Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga in this disciplin. He is also the #1 in the VL yearly onsight ranking game.
Can you tell us more about the trip and your focus on onsight?
New years trip with my family, climbing with my father who introduced me to this world 20 years ago. Mostly onsighting since I’ve never really climbed in Costa Blanca and always loved onsight game. Cheers to all of the Sella community for a nice week!
Giorgio Tomatis has completed Seleccio Natural (9a) in Santa Linya. In total, the 21-year-old has now done seven routes 9a and beyond.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This route is a nice testpiece of power endurance. I send it in 8 tries and I felt one time on the last move. I love this stylr of route and I think it’s an hard 9a. In this trip to Santa linya I send also La Novena Puerta (8c+) in 5 tries and I started to try Stoking the Fire (9b), I will come back in by best shape for this one⚔️
