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Vblog #1 from Ondra's America trip  Facebook
 

 
 
A maze of death 8A+ by Katie Lamb  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatie "Lamb" Ledecky has done her third 8A+, A maze of death in Bishop which just took her three sessions. "Very technical movement on bad feet. The hardest part is figuring out the foot beta."

The 21 year old has been climbing since she was 8 years old and being a teenager she did win the nationals a few times. Her next goal is to do Mandala.

 
 
Ondra's Just Do It 8c+ onsight story  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has described his onsight of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rocks with a great picture of Bernardo Gimenez. Good news is that they also got it on video.

"It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off." Full story at his Insta.

 
 
Classified 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a.

"Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

 
 
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It 8c+  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted the iconic Just Do it 8c+ at Smith Rocks. It was bolted in 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the FA in 1992. The 40m line with 18 bolts starts almost vertical with technical climbing on whitish rock. The second half on near to purple rock is slightly overhanging with the crux at the top where many have taken 15 meters falls.

Adam has previously onsighted three 9a's, 19 8c+' and 61 8c's. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen 8c and harder.

 
 
Johnny Dawes (54) back to 8b+  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBritish legend Johnny Dawes is back on the game after a long process of efforts. A year ago he did Abuela Carmen 8a in La Pedriza, Spain. That day he tried on a top rope Inuït 8b+ just for fun and fixed it as a goal for the next season. The last week he tried first to check the moves and sent it on his second go. More info on his Insta. ©Talo Martin

Known as the developer of the dynamic climbing, in 1985 he bolted Meltdown 9a slab. In 1986 he fell in the last bolt due to a hold broke in the last hard moves (video of 1986 trying the route with Jerry Moffat). Meltdown was FA'd by James McHaffie in 2012 and recently repeated by Ignacio Mulero in 2018.

 
 
Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Adam Ondra was 13 years, nine months and six days when he did his first 9a. Illya was five days younger, setting a new world record. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!

 
 
Assassin 9a #106 by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Drew Ruana's Assassin 9a in Smith Rocks which he did second go. "2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between." (c) Martin Kanurek

In total total, the 25 year old has now recorded 172 routes 9a to 9c. Interesting insights on his Insta from Smith Rocks. "I love visiting new climbing places and I have been looking forward to this place so much! It is basically birthplace of America's sport climbing." He also met and give credits to Alan Watts, the pioneer of sport climbing in USA who in the early days got a lot of criticism." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

 
 
Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3.

Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.

 
 
Sharma Mont-Rebei Summer 2018  Facebook
 

 
 
Meltdown 8c+ trad by Carlo Traversi  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 8c+ in Yosemite which since 2008 have been seen as possibly the hardest trad route in the world.

"This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose."

Carlo's background is bouldering where he during two years until 2013 did five 8C's. Then in 2015 he did two 9a's and on his Insta he then reported he was close doing Meltdown after three years of sporadic effort.

 
 
Viaje astral 9a FA by Jonathan Guadalcázar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Guadalcázar has done his third 9a during the last 12 months, Viaje astral in Tarbena. Until 2016, the 25 year old had done just one 8c+ but during the last two years he has done five.

"40m route very intense. First 20m 8c+ on small crimps without rests and after a water-polished laybacking crack ending on very small crimps."

 
 
4*4 8b+ by Alex Totkova (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Totkova, who the last two weeks has done two 8b's, has done 4*4 8b+ in Vratsa. "The route was so important for me because this is my first 8b+. On 4x4 the first 10 meters was boulder 7c. And the other 20 meters was 7c+ or 8a. I was very happy when I did it and I coun't believe that I climbed it."

The last three years she has won all the Lead comps she has done in Bulgaria, Petzen, Imst and Arco.

 
 
Working Class 9a by Moritz Perwitzschky (19)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura, which he marked as chipped. "Lot of fixed holds, went down quick, M. Bock suggested 9a, I can't really tell, haven't tried much in that grade."

During the last month, the 19 year old has done six routes 8C and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking game.

 
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano (38)  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin

"The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "

 
 
Schweinebaumeln 9a by Thomas O'Halloran  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas O'Halloran has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Schweinebaumeln 9a in Blue Mountains. The picture is from this summer walking up to Céüse and here is a nice video of him doing Mister Hyde 8c+ up there.

"Over the past few years I have spent a lot of days on it, but always in the middle of summer in bad conditions. I’d just use it as a training route while everything else was out of season. It was a good training route to keep fit. I did it on the 4th day of attempts this season. It’s very satisfying to do. I’m not feeling especially fit or strong at the moment and it didn’t feel like it took a lot out of me. So it’s great to know I have quite a bit more room to improve!"

 
 
Circo Ibérico 9a+ FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Diaz-Rullo has done his third 9a+ through the FA of Circo Ibérico in Cuenca. "Route on the lower range of 9a+, harder than the others 9a's in Cuenca anyway. Few climbers like Pablo Barbero tried it before and once I tried it I was super psyched to keep trying it". In the ranking game, the 19 year old spanish is #5. ©Javipec

 
 
Atomic Playboy 8A+ trav (8A) By Oriane Bertone (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done the Fontainebleau traverse Atomic Playboy 8A+. "Fantastic trav with a boulder grade in the 7C+ section." The 13 year old has done more than 20 Boulders 8A and harder including Golden Shadow 8B (+) when she was 12 years old.

 
 
Working class 9a by Philipp Gaßner (18)  Facebook
 

Philipp Gaßner, who did his first 8c+ being 14 years old, has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura. "Tried it two days last year and one day this year; striking line with one hard bouldery section near the top."

The 18 year old is #6 in the 8a Combined ranking game having done also ten 8B boulders in 2018.

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefan Scarperi  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Scarperi has done the 25th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich’s classic from 1991, Action Directe in Frankenjura after six days of working it during the last two years. In total the Italian has done four 9a’s out of which two the last two weeks. In 2015 he was #3 in the Euro Championship.

It is just amazing and Wolfgang did it the same year when I was born. I think this is my hardest although Biologico took me a lot of effort.”

 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Stefan Billmeier

Bamboozalled, V7 Laos/T
hakhek - a perfect bloc
, wonderful line, solid
V7
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Jon Shen

Flofo Grunewald on Fata
Morgana (8a).
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
Kathrin Ziegler

Goldener Mittelweg
 
Gus Carter

Mullentino V6/7A
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
cin
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
"Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBased on an incident where the webbing of a quickdraw was cut after six sideway falls, the normal hanger was replaced with a Raumer "caving" anchor, see picture. The idea was to move out the quick draw so that the webbing should have less contact with the sharp granite just below the hanger.

Although such hanger can be used in a top anchor, creating less rope drag as the quick draw or the screw carabiner get perpendicular, this hanger is not designed for dynamic load. Further more, it is important that the load stays downwards. The "caving" hanger could put the quick draw in a bad position which can lead to ruptures, i.e. carabiner breakage.

Emanuele Pellizzari, who is selling Kinobi bolts etc since 15 years, explains the risk which also Raumer, the manufacture of the bolt, have confirmed.

"That hanger is not meant for climbing falls. It is meant for static load with a clear direction of force. In fact it keeps the biner perpendicular to the route, like in belays/rappels. It should be removed and replaced with a regular hanger. This is a typical case of mis-use by the equipper."​

What is your best advice if the local club do not want to chop the bolt and drill a new hole? What about replacing the having hanger with an anchor with two rings?
 
Talk to climbers with bad access behavior  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste.

As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.
 
Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOsp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened.

"Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe."

More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.
 
8.57 by Miho Nonaka in Speed  (2) Facebook
Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18.

Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.
 
Great progress for Asia  (2) Facebook
Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan.

Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings.

National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019
1. Japan 3 618
2. Slovenia 2 817
3. France 2 263
4. Austria 1 805
5. South Korea 1 313
Complete results
 
Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty.
Here you can support the cause with your signature.

Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.
 
Penrose Step 8B+ and more by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.
 
Sharma competes at La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm  (3) Facebook
In 1996, being 15 years old, Chris Sharma was #2 in the World Lead Championship and the next year he won his first World Cup he entered. In 2001, he won the Bouldering WC in Munich.

During the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm 24/11, Sharma will compete against some of the very boulderers in the world; Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Alex Megos, Rei Sugimoto and Alexey Rubtsov. If he not ends last, it must be considered sensational. What if this is a test for going for the Olympics 2020? IFSC will through a Tripartite Commission invite one male and female that have not made it through the qualification competitions.
 
Free Personalized Gym Workouts from Vertical-Life  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureWorkouts are now live in the Vertical-Life Climbing App! Spice up your gym sessions with free, customized, workouts. Lead and bouldering workouts are single-day training plans, designed by pro climbing coach Ingo Filzwieser.

Get started with 3 easy steps:
1. Choose your gym
2. Set a goal
3. Start Training

Download the App and start your free workout
 


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