Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has sent Alphane (9A) in Chironico. This was the fifth repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s FA after Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, Simon Lorenzi and Jakob Schubert. This ascent marks the culmination of another impressive year of high-level achievements for the American. Just during the last six weeks, Bailey made the FA of Shaolin (9A) and repeated Ryuichi Murai's Floatin' (8C+).
The 28-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years. In 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WCs as well as sending Bibliographie (9b+). He stopped competing last year after narrowly making it to Paris.
Jun Shibanuma has, in the same session, sent Amaterasu (8C), Phenomena (8B+) and Dakine (8B+) in Hinokage. Previously in 2024, Jun has done five 8C's and interestingly, the 34-year-old Japanese did not start climbing until he joined the University.
Can you tell us more about that amazing day?
AMATERASU is located in Mt.Hiei which is one of the most beautiful Boulder in Japan, maybe in the world, too.
It has 14 move from start to the lip in my beta. The middle section is so crimpy and last section is powerful and technical with pinch and heel hook.
Besides the rock is granite so crimp is so sharp. It’s really hard to link it, I fell many times at last crux.
The condition was perfect in the day (little bit cold). I warmed up a lot than usual. My body moved well and I could hold the last crux stably. But my finger grew numb with cold, I was about to fall to catch the lip. That was hard struggle.
Fortunately I sent it first go, so I decided to move other projects soon.
I already solved sequence of “DAKINE” and “Phenomena “.
DAKINE is also needed technically hook and physical strength, it was also hard for me.
On the other hand, phenomena is my favorite style, the crux hold is a pinch. I had enough confidence to send it.
It was a amazing day, I had a lot of luck and my friends inspired me a lot.
How many sessions were needed for Amaterasu?
It took 3 years and I stopped to count sessions because sometimes I tried only 2-3hours before work or too bad conditions.
What are your winter plans?
Not decided yet 💦
Amaterasu was my goal of this winter.
But there are a lot of good boulders around the Hiei and Hinokage. I will try them. And end of winter, I want to check Floatin (8C+).
Seb Bouin made the FA of DNA (9c) in 2022 after spending close to 200 days on it. "It's the most challenging project I've ever done. It's the hardest route I've ever tried and climbed in my climbing career. This route marks a milestone in my climbing life."
Michaela Kiersch is the first woman to have reached both 8C and 9a+. At age 15, she was #22 in her Boulder World Cup debut in 2010 and the next year she was #18…
Alex Johnson, with 22 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ under her belt, has completed
Columbian Bowtie (8A+)
in Castle Rocks (ID). ”So good, haven’t had this much fun on a boulder in forever. biggg kitty tracks, dead truck key close call, and lucky slice pizza.” (c) Sera Gerhart
Can you elaborate a bit more on that epic comment?
This climb is so fun! I went with Sera Gearhart, and on the hike down we saw fresh mountain lion tracks which is always scary. When we got back to the parking, my electric truck key battery had died so my truck wouldn’t start and we thought we were stranded hours from the nearest city with no phone service! I took the key apart and put it back together multiple times and one time we got lucky and it worked. My truck turned on! I think we were more excited about that than the send. We celebrated by getting Lucky Slice Pizza. 🍕🍕
Colin Duffy has, in one solo session, repeated Daniel Woods' Deathstar (8C) in Eldora. ”This thing is rad, the bottom sequence makes the stand start moves wayyy spicier. On the send go, I lost my feet while sticking the final slot, but I was able to hold it one handed! Not the cleanest send but got the job done. 3rd 8C in 9 days, let's keep the momentum rolling...”
Amandine Loury, who earlier in 2024 did her second 8c+, has done L'étrave (8c) in Saint Léger and Rest in Beast (8b+) in Buoux. In the VL ranking game, the 34-year-old is #4.
Can you tell us more about the 8c?
L’étrave is a very beautiful and various line in Praniania sector. It’s the direct start of La Trav vers l’étrave 8b+ that I send in 2020.
The start of L'étrave is very powerfull with long moves and hooks. Just after there is a beautiful pumpy section before a good rest and to finish there is a hard and mental section with crimp on a vertical wall. So I was happy to not fall in this last part, because I was not sure to send again the start.
