EDITORIAL
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Road to Silence via Move Hard (9b)
"I would say this route has more in common with Silence than Move, so could be called "Silence easy" [variation] too. The line starts from ‘Move’, and takes you through the very first crux, before turning right into Silence to do the second and third cruxes. Basically, you skip the main crux of Sile…
Campbell Harrison and Oceania Mackenzie earn Olympic berths
Campbell Harrison and Oceania Mackenzie, both from Australia, won the Boulder & Lead Olympic Oceania qualifier in Melbourne. Harrison has competed actively …
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EDITORIAL
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Road to Silence via Move Hard (9b)
"I would say this route has more in common with Silence than Move, so could be called "Silence easy" [variation] too. The line starts from ‘Move’, and takes you through the very first crux, before turning right into Silence to do the second and third cruxes. Basically, you skip the main crux of Sile…
Campbell Harrison and Oceania Mackenzie earn Olympic berths
Campbell Harrison and Oceania Mackenzie, both from Australia, won the Boulder & Lead Olympic Oceania qualifier in Melbourne. Harrison has competed actively …
Route Setter Magazine #6 is out now!
Your premium source when it comes to route setting, gym management and the world of indoor climbing is back for the sixth year in a row! Researched by experts, …
48 hrs with Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo sends Ciudad de dios (9a) and spend his day #131 on his big project in Margalef, besides training hard.
Simon Lorenzi's Alphane mini-doc
Simon Lorenzi, who made the FA of Soudain seul (9A) in 2021 after some 25 sessions, needed some 20 sessions to send Alphane (9A) last year. "Soudain Seul was harder to send for me. But as you know climbing is a matter of style." The sending process of Alphane could probably have been quicker as he …
Babsi Zangerl's footage of Meltdown (8c+) trad
Babsi Zangerl did the third repeat of Beth Rodden’s Meltdown (8c+) in Yosemite (CA) last month. Rodden put it up in 2008 and it is considered to be the first 8c+ trad in the world. Carlo Traversi did the first repeat in 2018 and then Babsi's partner Jacopo Larcher sent it last year.
Sorato Anraku is booked for Paris 2024
Sorato Anraku the overall World Cup winner in both Lead and Boulder, was rather superior in the Asian Olympic qualifier. The 16-year-old won all three rounds wi…
Yuetong Zhang gets her ticket to Paris
Yuetong Zhang from China was the sensational winner of the ticket to Paris through the Asian Olympic qualifier in Jakarta. Last year, she was #14 and #15 in the…
CAC Gallery Wrap-Up and KletterRetter Gallery Lowdown
393 images were uploaded and 248 Vengas were shared in an effort to raise awareness for a great cause in the October Climbers Against Cancer Gallery Raffle. A h…
Seb Bouin's story behind ACL (9b)
Sebastien Bouin did the FA of Ariégeois Cœur Loyal (9b) in his home crag Pic St Loup, in April. It is a 20m extension to Legend (9a) which he made the FA of in 2017 after it had been a project for 20 years. "I bolted this route [the extension] 5 years ago when my grandpa passed away. His woodworker …