Ludivine Balbi has sent Amadeus (8c) in Sabart, uncut video. The 15-year-old did her first 8b at age 12.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I started climbing very early thanks to my parents who took me to the crag since I was young (I took my first steps in the Finestra sector in Margalef!!! 😊). When I was 8 years old, I discovered competition by chance thanks to my instructor at the time Mathieu (Gallo-Lavallee also called Mr. MA.GA.LA). I quickly managed to rank well on the local and regional circuit.

In the summer of 2021, at the U-14 French Championships I was number two. In 2022 at the French Difficulty Championship in Le Pouzin I won the title of French Champion and this gave me access to the French Team and to international competitions.

Today I share my passion for climbing between the cliff and competition. I have the chance to travel to the major spots in France, Spain, and Italy. I have already done some 8b in climbing trips and I wanted to try a harder project close to home. That's why I chose Amadeus. I am so happy to have done it in 10 days and about 25 attempts and especially before my 16th birthday (at the end of October). I wanted to thank the Block Out Toulouse club for their support and especially my coach Guillaume Mauss for his kindness and cheerfulness.

Connor Herson has done the FA of Midnight Way (9a+) in Paradise Valley and The Shark 8b+ (c) trad in The Chief. The 21-year-old made his first 8a headline in 2018 when he did an 8c+, 2nd go at age 14. In the same year he repeated The Nose 8b+ MP; and was #11 in the Youth World Championship. Since then, he has evolved into one of the world's leading trad and big wall climbers. (c) Tempei Takeuchi

Can you tell us more about those two impressive first ascents?
The Shark: When I returned to Squamish, Didier offered to show me his project. I assumed I would just be trying the moves for fun, but he offered me a chance at the first ascent! I ended up sending it on my second session, grade is probably around 8b+ or 8c. The climb is pumpy, steep, and powerful, and it’s very high quality!

Midnight Way: I knew about this possible linkup last year, and it was my primary objective when I returned to Squamish this year. The line follows all the hard climbing on Spirit Quest (9a) and then climbs straight into several hard boulders. I ended up climbing spirit quest then falling higher up 3 times, and in order to send I needed to climb spirit quest and feel fresh after all the hard climbing!

On the day I sent Midnight Way, I high pointed on my first go (nearly doing it that try), then fell about halfway through spirit quest on my second attempt. On my third attempt I notice my finger was bleeding halfway through spirit quest, and it got worse and worse as I climbed higher but I still somehow made it work!

Josh Ibbertson has done Change P1 (9a+) in Flatanger. The 20-year-old, who has already completed seven 9a climbs, made his first 8a headlines at the age of 10. Two years ago, he sent Rainman (9b). (c) Adri Martinez

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Whilst not initially on my agenda for my first trip to the cave, but after belaying Jorge on his send of the full rig I got psyched to give the first pitch a try.

Leo [Böe] and I worked together to find our own sequences, so it felt fitting that we were able to send on back to back attempts! (Leo as it was getting dark and myself the next morning). The crux for me was maintaining tension through the very intense right knee and then releasing this without cutting feet. It's an intricate sequence that feels very burly at the same time!

I sent on the first go of what I think was session 9, although two other of those sessions were just 1 short try each. It felt closer to 7 'full' days of effort. I'm now motivated to come back for the full line next season!

What is next?
Back home in the UK for a bit to train and surf. Then off to Red River in November!

Michał Korban, with one 8c+ under his belt, has completed Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. It was put up in 1991 by Wolfgang Güllich as the first 9a in the world and has been repeated some 30 times. (c) Frank Kretschmann

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
The route took me around 16 sessions, making it my longest project ever. The first time I tried Action Directe was last June (I dedicated only one day to see how the moves looked), and I immediately knew I would come back to it. Between May and June of this year, I spent three weeks on the route, but unfortunately, I didn’t get lucky with the weather (the route was wet for half the trip), so I ran out of time. I decided to rest and heal my injuries—first a torn pulley, then a sprained ankle—so I was ready for the next trip at the beginning of September. The