Sung Su Lee ticks Dreamtime (8B+/C)

Sung Su Lee, who sent four 8C’s this summer in Rocklands, has done Dreamtime (8B+/C) in Cresciano.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip to Europe?
I am currently in Switzerland, challenging myself with Alphane (9A) and the Dreamtime took me three sessions as a side project. I only have two days left to climb, so I plan to return next year.

How is your progress on Alphane?
I started from four moves in and linked it to the end. I had many good attempts, but it’s a bit disappointing since it’s just a 13-day mini trip.

What is your next plan?
In October, I plan to go to Mizugaki in Japan, and at the end of November, I’ll head to Bishop in the United States for a rock climbing trip.

Who is paying for all trips? Are you a fully sponsored climber?
I’m currently in a short-term contract with an outdoor brand in Korea, but it ends this November, so I’m not sure if I’ll be able to travel like this next year. 😮‍💨

Pietro Vidi completes Dark Matter (8C)

Pietro Vidi has done Power of Now (8B+), Tigris sit (8B+) and Dark Matter (8B+) in Magic Wood. In the 8a ranking game, the 21-year-old Italian is #2.

Dark matter is the longest line in the darkness cave, around 40 moves. I mainly tried it to gain some fitness as it’s super crimpy and powerful and good training for resistant projects in the fall. I tried a bit with Dave [Graham] and we both agree is way harder than any other 8B+ in the cave wich all took me just a couple tries, whereas dark matter was was a bigger fight. It was originally graded 8B+/C but after some breaks we agree it is definitely 8C!