Gianluca Vighetti, who last year sent two 9a+’ at age 16, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. Last year the Italian won the Euro youth cup overall. (c) Nicolò Vece

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I wanted to spend a weekend climbing on rock after the end of the Italian competitions, but I still wanted to try a "comp-style" route, or at least something that could help me train a lot. The Famous Gem was perfect for my goal: a bouldery, crimpy, and overhanging line without many kneebars. On the first day, I never managed to get past the first crux, which is shared with the 8c section, and I started doubting myself and my fitness. The next day, I was having the exact same issue, but once I climbed past the crux, everything went perfectly, and I sent this beautiful line.

What are your summer plans?
My summer plan is to focus on the international competions, the European youth cups, European senior cups and the World youth championship in Arco. I'm also really excited for the rock season in Autumn! I have some really cool lines in my mind.

How come you have not done any IFSC comps in 2026?
Unfortunately I had a shoulder injury that kept me off the wall for some time at the beginning of the season and I wasn't able to compete in the first wc selection and in the other one I wasn't fully recovered. But it isn't a problem, next year I'm going to give my best for sure.

Laura Rogora, who is on a break from the competition scene, has sent Moon landing (9a) in Passo della Presolana. The five star line was bolted by Luca Bana, who did the third ascent, and FA’ed by Stefano Carnati. The 25-year-old has sent 16 routes 9a and beyond during the last year and she is number one in the ranking game ahead of Jorge Diaz-Rullo. (c) Carolina Meloni

Can you tell us more about the weekend?
Last weekend I went to Passo della Presolana to try Moonlanding. On Saturday I worked the moves, and after the first two burns the final crux felt pretty hard, so I decided to do the 8c+ exit instead, especially because it had started raining and the 9a exit was wet.

On my third go my foot slipped on a wet hold and then I sent it on the fourth try. I tried the exit again and found some better beta, but I didn’t have high hopes for the next day.

The following day, however, on my second go the wind had picked up a bit and I realized I had a chance. I didn’t make any mistakes, and after a good fight on the final boulder I clipped the chain.

Arthur Poindefert jumps three grades and repeats Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger after more than 100 tries. During the two years of projecting, the alpine guide had his shoulder dislocated and underwent compartment syndrome surgery. (c) Timothée Nietschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
This project was something I had in mind during every training session for two years. I had other smaller climbing projects on the side, but this one really taught me how to detach myself from the result while still putting everything into training. In the end, you can climb there in autumn, winter and spring, so quite often. But I also had long periods where I couldn’t go because of injuries that stopped me from climbing.

Can you tell us more about the day of the send?
To tell you about that day, you first need to know that I was supposed to try the route at the end of winter, but with my shoulder injury, my delayed training, and everything else, my shape only came back at the end of May. I was a bit alone in the process, because not many people were at the cliff in early June because of the heat. Every week, from Grenoble, I was doing day trips to put in 2 to 4 tries in the route around 8 p.m., before driving all the way back the same evening.

In the end, I kept feeling better and better in the route, but the guiding season had definitely started! After a first Mont Blanc with two clients, I had to drive from Chamonix for one last day before being completely taken by work for the rest of June. Two good friends were on holiday, and one of them was preparing for the 90 km du Mont-Blanc and had to run. So we planned to meet there: he would run during the day and come belay me in the evening. I drove from Annecy that same day, with my car’s air conditioning broken. Let’s just say I didn’t arrive at the cliff feeling very fresh, and I wasn’t particularly motivated that time… I felt like I was maybe starting to fall into pure stubbornness. So I delayed my arrival at the cliff, spent time with my friends, played some ping-pong, and the motivation came back.

Around 8 p.m., I arrived at the cliff, warmed up in 15 minutes on the ground and on the hangboard there. Then I went up to brush the holds, and by 9 p.m., the day was over, with the route done on the first try. It felt pretty unreal. My climbing was perfect, no detail had escaped me, and the wind probably saved me. For once, I had the energy I needed for the last move, and even though the rock was still warm from the day, the strong wind made it just good enough. Funny little anecdote: the two friends are not really climbers, and 5 minutes before sending the route, I had to explain to Thibaut how a Grigri works! I had been talking to them about the route for two years, and it was their first time at the cliff. They must have thought climbing wasn’t actually that hard after all!

What about the compartments syndrome problem and surgery?
My arms always used to ache when I was training for endurance climbing, but I thought that was the same for everyone. Over time, I realised last year that this wasn’t normal: I was finding it increasingly difficult and my performance was dropping significantly. I couldn’t even climb my warm-up routes without feeling severe pain in my arms, like tendonitis. I eventually discovered that I also had visible muscle hernias in my arms. Once we’d identified the problem, things moved quickly. I had an operation and within two or three weeks I was climbing again! To put it simply, the tissue surrounding my muscle isn’t elastic, and my muscle kept growing without having enough space to do so.

Beckett Hsin, who sent his first 9A in February, has repeated Drew Ruana’s Insomniac (8C+) in Lincoln Lake. (c) Brennan Robinson

The 16-year-old got his driver's license last month, and with that newfound freedom, he visited the area for the first time since 2024 and he comments on Instagram.

”Spent my first few days back grinding out the wolvo cave, and last weekend I managed to avoid the dab and take down the big link! I remember coming to Lincoln for the first time in 2022, and wondering if I’d ever be strong enough to do this one. Looks like I’ve leveled up a bit since then… Was also able to make my way up “Wheel Of Wolvo” and “Variant”, (both v14ish). Alpine szn off to a good start! Hyped to get out of the cave and take on some king lines🔜”

Manon Hily, who was 8th in Innsbruck, included an ascent of Bronx (8c+) in Orgon - Canal as a preparation. Since making her World Cup debut in 2013, the 32-year-old has established herself as one of the sport’s top performers, with ten ascents graded 8c+ or harder, including her first 9a+ route last year. She also enjoyed her second-best overall World Cup season in 2025, finishing 10th in the standings. Her next challenge will be the World Cup event in Chamonix in three weeks’ time.

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, with seven 9a and beyond under her harness, has done Obaba (9a) in Baltzola. "A style that's very different from what's usual at Baltzola, super awesome!!!" (c) Mar Díaz Miranda

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Actually, I put the quickdraws on this route a year ago, but for one reason or another, I’ve never tried it again. It has been a period of combining trainings and some rocks around home, and since the route has been dry in the last few weeks, I decided to try it!!

Pepa Šindel, who last month sent his first 9b, has done Proces (9a) in Višňové. ”With wet holds and without kneepad. So many tries. Not my style at all. When I started trying it 3 years ago I was not able to do most of the moves then after so much time I did the harder variant with kneepad. Today I came full circle and did it honestly.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Proces is an old-school, groundbreaking route in Višňové (Slovakia) FA’d by Juraj Repčík in 2004. It’s the closest 9a to my home, and I’ve spent so much time on it.

It’s an ultra-physical climb in a cave with good holds, huge moves, and a boulder problem in the middle and at the top. Last year, I fell six times on the last jump move, which is a complete comp-style dyno to a jug. I gave up on the move and first did the harder variant, called Procesor 9a/9a+, which skips the final jump. This year, I returned and promised to myself and to my dad that I would do it the original way, without a kneepad. On my first day back this year, I did it without a kneepad and with some of the holds being wet.

What are your summer plans?
I will start my summer trip in Frankenjura where I want to finish Black Label 9a from last year. Then my plans are still open but I will also definitely visit some crags in Dolomites:)

David Firnenburg has had a personal record day up at Gottardo sending Adularia (8C), Stairway to heaven sit (8B+) and Hazel Grace sit (8C).

The 31-year-old started out as a route and competition climber. He won a couple Euro Youth Cups and in 2016, he got the bronze in the Combined World Championships. By 2020, the German had climbed 21 routes graded 9a or harder. He later shifted his focus more toward bouldering, and in 2025 he completed his second and third 8C boulders. (c) Clem Lechaptois

Can you tell us more about your great sending day?
So, Andrea [Kümin] and I started the day early at Mätteli sector where Adaluria is located. These days you can find good conditions until around 12 a.m. We met our friend Marco Müller and later Nina Arthur and Clem Lechaptois joined us. Andrea worked the stand start and made decent progress. She made the heel hook move look easy on which I struggled the most coming from the sit start. Marco was the first to send Adaluria. Looked very in control and precise. I sent the stand start two weeks ago, so this was my first time trying from the sit. I quickly found my beta and went through the first part into the stand. However, I struggled with a right heel hook where you to place your finger precisely on a kind of mini horn in order to have enough space for the heel. After around 4 times falling there, the heel finally sticked and I didn’t fall at the last physical moves anymore. Back to back send with Marco! Great support from the crew!

Then we went on to the king line of the entire area, Stairway to heaven. It was crazy windy up there. Usually you wait until the sun is gone but it was sticky enough to try it in the sun. I quickly tried the climb two weeks ago but after half an hour we got rained out. This time I had no stress, worked the upper part on the rope, made some tick marks and then tried from the bottom. Alois Remund and Beni Blaser, two other good Swiss friends joined us. Again pretty good vibes! I mostly struggled with the first two left heel hooks on the slopy arete. Once they stayed on, I sent the problem. Such a nice mixture of physical compression, technical heel hooks, friction, height and good mental game!

Alois got us excited to try the sit with him. He had sent the stand before. Marco was actually trying Child of Hell (8C) just next to it but came over to us to join. He was again the first to send the sit of Stairway which motivated me to do the same. Again, he made it look really in control. Inspiring! Alois, Beni and I made shifts on the boulder. Alois and Beni also had promising tries. Funny and acrobatic how we flew off the arete onto the uneven landing underneath! Luckily, we had enough pads to make the climb feel safe despite its height.

The difficulty of the climb remains the same, the heel hooks. The sit adds four hand moves and two foot moves, though. I made progress try over try and then fought my way up to the top. Some power screams were needed because I started to feel tired. A couple of tries on Adaluria in the morning which consists of around 12 steep moves, more tries on Stairway stand afterwards (9 powerful moves) and then some more on the sit (15 moves). Actually I thought the day was over and that I would support Andrea working Hazel Grace.

At Hazel we teamed up with Nina and Clem again. A bit later Jorge Diaz-Rullo joined us. The boulder is the whole day in the sun and only climbable in the evening. Nina and Andrea worked the stand, the boys the sit. I sat down and had some snacks. I actually told myself to end the climbing day with a sweet success on Stairway sit and the other climb I had sent. But then I changed my mind and thought I should at least give it some tries because the conditions were good, my skin wasn’t too bad and I wanted to be very tired when sitting in the office next Monday morning😊 Watching the others climb made me excited, too. I had my first session on the stand the day before sending it. I knew how to do the upper part and in the end of the session I figured out how to do the moves from the sit. I had a good first go climbing into the stand and felt surprisingly good again. Maybe it was because of the nuts and chocolate I had eaten before. I just had to do the second move of the stand start a tiny bit differently coming from the sit. A bit more bouncy and dead-pointy. That’s what I did on my second try, felt good on the slot holds, didn’t need the intermediate for the cross move and strong on the last moves which are easier but hard enough to fall on every move. I was surprised standing on top. A bit surreal.

Overall, probably my best bouldering day so far when it comes to sending. A good mix of a motivated and supporting team, beautiful landscape, fresh air, beautiful lines and own ambitions. Also cool to see that I am still progressing after so many years of climbing. I am still very motivated to try hard and climb as much as possible. I also have the drive to discover new areas and travel when I find the time besides work. I am also healthy and didn’t face any big injuries in the past which is a gift. And I’ve got a loving girl friend and family which is the most amazing thing. Very grateful for all of that!

Noah Wheeler, who the last month sent his third 9A boulder, has in just three days up at Upper Chaos sent two 8C+ boulders. In the VL ranking game, the 23-year-old is the runner-up after Zach Galla but just ahead of Adam Ondra.

Brace for the Cure (8C+): ”2 sessions this year - tried a sesh or two last year with no chance on the full line. Jade move is atleast the 2nd hardest move on this line. Stuck it maybe 15 times in a row in order to send. Contender for one of the most purely finger-strength dependent climbs in the world!”

Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+): ”Maybe an hour total on the boulder with 3 start rips over 2 days (was mostly trying Brace). Fell on the topout twice which made the double-kneebar assisted sent even sweeter! A good benchmark for the very low end of the grade. Climbs amazingly.” (c) Francois Lebeau

Can we have a longer write up of the ascents?
Tried Brace once last year in and was able to do all the moves, but with much pain in my fingers. Figured it would go as a 3+ sessions project this year. Came back and climbed into the V9/10 end move on my first session, falling on what felt like a like punt. That same session, I was hanging out with Austin Hoyt under the Creature cave and impromptu decided to pull on the crux sequence (generally considered 3/4 moves of V15 [8C]). To my surprise, I linked through it and into the stand.

The next session, I sent Brace after maybe 2 hours - longer than I wanted. I pulled on to Creature from the start and climbed all the way into the topout of the V11 [8A] stand pumping out to such a degree it did not feel like a punt at all. At that point it was too late and I was too tired to try again.

The next day I fell getting my foot up on the headwall in my first go, then sent my second. The crux sequence was so weirdly in my style that I never fell on it, so the climb did not feel too difficult. It was definitely an endurance end crux for me.

Tyler Thompson has repeated Cameron Hörst’s Martial Law (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. ”After falling a handful of times on the shared RP crux above the hole it felt just awesome to stick it. Ultimately I think knees, especially the one joining this route and AD dropped the intensity enough for me that I’d suggest a 9a/+ biased off my experience. Certainly the hardest in the cave and a great endurance challenge!” (c) James Lucas

Can you tell us more about the ascent and which route it shares the crux with?
Martial Law is an alternative start to Arrested Development (8c+) where you come in from the deepest part of the cave and join that route right at the start of the difficulty. I’d say it’s around 14a [8b+] to get into the start and quite intense and tiring. I spent my first session just focused on the first bit of climbing and linking into AD. On my third session I made it through the crux of AD and on my fourth I fell on the shared redpoint crux, which comes after another kneebar but is super tricky and easy to drop. I had two more sessions falling high on the route before doing it on my 7th day.

What rebolting have you been involved in lately?
I had the opportunity to participate in a few rebolting days thanks to Arcteryx! First in Jilotepec, Mexico and more recently in the NRG where NRAC is doing an extensive rebolting effort. I only did one working day there where I got to help put fresh hardware in an FA of mine which had 30 year old bolts. It was a great learning experience and I definitely plan to do more in the future!