Barbara Zangerl has done Cedric Lachat's Speed Integrale 9a in Voralpsee, which was a 10 m extension to Beat Kammerlander's Speed 8c+. It took Babsi some 15 days and the sending day was amazing.

"What a day!!!!—at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations. Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!!" Jacopo Larcher

Interesting she did it the first time also doing Speed 8c+. "The extension is powerful on slopy pockets ...not easy to climb that with pumped forearms."

Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is the best female multi-discipline climber.

"I love all disciplines. I couldn't focus just on one all over the year. Next is Canada is a trip to Canada for June and July. Excited to go there for my first time. Always fun to see new places."

In 2013, Tito Traversa (12) fell to the ground from 18 meters due to quick draws fallen apart as they were only attached with the rubber band. Tito had just done his fourth 8b+ and he was on a youth trip with his local club including one leader and two parents.

The Italian court has now said the unofficial instructor Nicola Galizia should be blamed and has sentenced him to two two years in prison and also judicial expenses in excess of 21 000 euros. However, Galizia is likely not going to jail as this is his first offense. Pareti.it has more info in Italian

For Tito, forever in our hearts, video made by Christian Core which was presented at Arco Rock Master 2013 where Ramon Julian Puigblanque dedicated his victory to him. Tito's father have said we should keep his 8a scorecard as another memory of his son.

9b at 1800m: La Cène du (Roi) Lézard – The Last Supper of the Lizard (King), Jansegg, FR/CH from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

Niccolo Ceria reports on Insta that he has flashed Chris Sharma's Trifecta Middel and James Morris' Mortality Sequence in Flock Hill. Interesting is that they both only been repeated few times. (c) Gomez Garcia Gonzalez

Niky's Insta is full of other great pictures and info about some new FAs, but no grades, in the stunning and famous boulder spot in New Zealand. With a couple 8B flashes previously, he should be considered as one of the best in the world.

Jonathan Siegrist has done the second repeat, after Ethan Pringle, of Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear Cam Media More info to come

Adam Ondra has been invited to climbing in Herculane in Romania where he, among other things, made one 9a FA and Stone Butterfly 9a+. Interesting is that he calls it the “wall of perfection” on his Insta and that he has marked the routes with thumbs up which he actually rarely does.

“Amazing project from Gerhard Horhager right of Guri Guri. Power endurance on small tufas and crimps. Very complex and fun climbing.

Chad Greedy reports on Insta that Isabelle Faus has done The Cat Ranch 8B in RMNP. Isabelle has already sent close to 100 boulder problems from 8A to 8B+ and she's 2nd in the ranking game.

Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka won the fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup in Tai'an and continues their total domination. In the last two WCs, Akiyo has done all 26 boulder (Miho 25) and the runner up Stasa Gejo has done 15 boulders. Among the male, Alex Khazanov got his and Israel's first victory, interview is coming up, with the two Slovenians Jernej Kruder and Gregor Vezonik sharing the podium. The route setting and show was perfect in Tai'an with many amazing moments and excitement to the very.

1. Alex Khazanov 34 ISR - Akiyo Noguchi 44:5 JPN
2. Jernej Kruder 24:2 SLO - Miho Nonaka 44:10 JPN
3. Gregor Vezonik 24:4 SLO - Fanny Gibert 23:6 FRA
Complete results The results are presented as points and with ties, the number of attempts are added.

In 2009 Chris Sharma bolted La Dura Dura and two years later he did something unusual for the climbing community, as he told Adam Ondra to challenge him for the FA. Ondra did it in 2013 and one month later Sharma did his first 9b+. Cooperation in competitions is common but "closed projects" are quite normal in the climbing world and calling Perfecto Mundo an open project, Chris has once again showed the way forward.

"It was great climbing with Stefano and Alex on Perfecto Mundo. They were very respectful in asking me permission and honestly I had been quite on and off with the route so it was super motivating to try and share there experience with someone else. Definitely way more fun than trying it alone. And it was great to share something special with the new generation.

Sometimes keeping projects for ourselves can block the good energy from flowing naturally and it was great to let the good vibes flow with Alex and Stefano. Such nice guys and incredible climbers and athletes. That being said, I think it’s a case by case situation, and people should respect people’s projects and always ask for the bolter’s blessing.

I’m super psyched to continue trying and hopefully send Perfecto Mundo one day soon. It’s one of the most meaningful routes I’ve tried and have yet to complete. So whether it goes this season or next, I plan to keep at it till it comes together!" (c) Ricardo Giancola

Perfect route setting, based almost only on volumes, in the semi final where we saw some sensations as Tomoa Narasaki and Alexey Rubtsov missed the final. With the old scoring system, Narasaki would have been #2 as he flashed three problems but as he failed to get the zone on the fourth, the new scoring system put him down to 8th place. Among the male, six Japaneses in Top-11. Complete results. The final starts 02.30 GMT+8.

Female finalists: Noguchi, Nonaka, Gibert, Condie, Färber and Gejo
Male finalists: Fujii, Kruder, Vezonik, Khazanov, Sugimoto and Chon

Chris Sharma bolted Perfecto Mundo in 2010 and has worked it of and on since. Stefano Ghisolfi started working on it this winter and they were joined by Alex Megos this spring who just sent it after 15 days projecting. (c) Sara Grippo

How come did you choose this route as your first long term project and did you do any specific training for it?

It was not a decision I made beforehand. I just had a Spain trip planned to Margalef and Oliana with checking out "Perfecto Mundo" in mind. So I got here and after checking it out I got really psyched on it. We've been talking about going and trying Perfecto Mundo with Stefano (Ghisolfi) already a while ago but I never managed till now.

Chris was giving me all the beta he knew and he was the first one I'd see climbing on the route which was super interesting to see. We motivated each other and helped each other with beta and sequences. Stefano ended up taking my foot beta for the jump from the mono to the pinch for example. I changed my beta for the top to Stefanos beta. We were belaying each other as well. I didn't do any specific training for the route no. I came straight from a bouldering World Cup to Spain. All the training I did was on the route itself.

Also Ghisolfi has enjoyed the cooperation and might take another trip if the weather cooperates before he need to start preparing for the Lead World Cup preparation. "It was motivating to try the route together, no competition between us but just cooperation. I don't know how close I am, could take one more week or maybe I need to come back in autumn or winter."

The male Japanese domination in the Boulder World Cup continues and they won both groups in Tai'an as well as got nine into the Top-20 semifinal, starting tomorrow 09.30 GMT+8. All the big names made it through. Complete results. (c) IFSC

Among the female, the Japaneses set a new record with eight into the semifinal and to make it even more impressive, they participated with just eight female. The next Boulder WC takes place in Tokyo and there some 20 female and 25 male Japanese athletes are allowed to compete. The reason for the higher number of male is due to there were five in the Top-8 overall.

Manon Hily seems to be in her best shape in her life and has done Coma Sant Pere 8c+ in Margalef. "Much easier then Era Vella meaning 8c/+." (c) Théo Cartier

Last week she did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) after just trying if for four days and during her trip she has onsighted or flashed every 8a she has tried and she also did her first 8b onsight, La presó dels monstres. She says that the Margalef style with many two finger pockets suites her style.

Alexander Rohr has done the first repeat of Simon Wandeler's Alpenbitter 9a in Gimmelwand from 2007 and the story is great.

"During the first tries I came have way up the boulder but failed horribly! Too nervous and too much power just end in very inefficient climbing for me. As I got more and more tired and about to fire go number six, something magic happened. Something I never really experienced before. Very intense.

I started climbing to the first No-handrest before business starts. I was thinking about having a slight chance to still get through. But instead of making thoughts, I just completely forgot myself and I can‘t even remember what happened. I just remember the feeling while climbing towards the top. It felt like a big rush, full of energy and tiredness. Two opposites balancing out perfectly. My body got more and more tired but my mind was releasing energy I never knew it‘s existing. Perfect on a route like this where every move gets harder and harder until everything is over. The last move before the rest are very bouldery and hard. I was just smashing the dropknees around and totally went for it.

In the last move I almost passed out as I didnt‘t have oxygen in my body anymore. Everything was gone and I just realized that I‘m on the redpoint. Calm, and suddendly almost fresh. I did not get nervous, I just knew that I‘m going to do it now. Totally trapped in a bubble. Then I just climbed to the top and realized that I‘m the complete opposite of fresh! I couldn't yell or cry for long. Too tired. I jumped off and felt like I was running to save my life. Truly a special experience!‘

Alex Megos has done the old Chris Sharma project, Perfecto Mondo in Margalef which Chris has commented. "When it goes it'll surely be one of the best and hardest routes ever." Video of Chris Sharma projecting it. Megos comments on his Insta. "I'm incredibly relieved. This has been an important process in my climbing career and clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+ as well as getting the FA was an incredible experience. Video of one attempt.

Stefano Ghisolfi has also been working on it and this was what he told us last month. "Perfecto Mundo project first part could be 8c to a rest, then the main section starts, about ten intense moves with the crux that is a jump from a mono to a pinch which is the hardest move. I can do it as single move but not always. From there is still a bit hard, 8a+ to the chain I think." (c) Ken Etzel

Instead of doing the Bouldering World Cups in China, Shauna Coxsey is enjoying summer weather in Västervik, Sweden, where she today did Namaste 8A+.

Thomas Dauser has done his second 9a, The Essential in Frankenjura which took him a total of eight days. (c) Ole Koenig

"In a major battle, I climbed "The Essential" (9a) on Saturday. After my foot slipped twice at the last move to the jug, I finally climbed it in the 6th try on this day... and impressed myself. More exhausted than the previous tries, but very focused... seems like a rare moment where the mind wins over simple physical power."

Nice video of Ignacio Mulero climbing some new problems up to 8B+ FA's in a brand new area in La Pedriza, Spain. Video by David López.

La Pedriza is one of the biggest crags in Europe that still remains relatively unknown. New areas keep being devoloped every year, making La Pedriza one of the best granite destinations in Europe, and just 40 min from Madrid airport.

The Pedriza Bouldering Guidebook updated 2nd Edition is coming up in 2018 by local boulderers Talo Martín & Roser Giralt, teamed up with Vertical Life, compeling 80 sectors and over 2500 boulders, including kids sectors and many more, making the Albarracín-Pedriza combination a serious option to consider.

La Pedriza is mainly known by the unique character of its 4000 routes, where technical slabs up to 8c+ get along with face and overhanging sport climbing, 8c trad, 8b multipitch and A5 in aid climbing.

Florian Schmalzl, who previously has done two 8C's, has done the FA of a stunning line called Sierra Madre in Zillertal. In fact he did not give it a grade but talking to his friends who had tried it they all think it could be 8C. "All in all, cleaning it, finding the beta and climbing it, it took me ten days."