Ludo Delmotte has repeated Alban Levier’s La force (8C+) in Fontainebleau. Since the climb consists of approximately 35 moves, both 9a and 8C have been proposed as possible grades. In Fontainebleau, a unique intermediate traverse grade is sometimes used, and this is how it is reported in the news. VL attempts to distinguish traverse gradings by using the term 8Cc+.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This line is composed of “Act 1” (8A) followed by an upside down rest, then the hardest part “Act 2”(8B) and finished by “Morpheus” (7C).

Four years ago, when I did “Quoi de Neuf” (same beginning but ending up on the right) the left exit (La Force) seemed impossible to me.

Two years ago, I finally started working on “La force” but did not try it in 2023. This year I came back into it. I did 4 sessions of only trying the moves. Then I started “sending session” and I did it at the 2nd try. In total I did Morpheus more than 50 times for training. It tooks me 17 sessions and I fell in the final section (morpheus) 5 times.

For me, it is the most beautiful roof in the world. Right next to where I grew up.

Sera Gearhart, who just the last year has sent 18 boulders 8A and beyond, has done Lone Wolf (8A+) in Burnside Lake. In the VL ranking game, the 27-year-old is #2 after Caroline Sinno.

”It’s a link up near Tahoe! I did the 8A when I lived here a few years ago. I’m in town for a day and thought I could do the 12 [8A+] since it’s a power endurance line.”

Elisa Lauretano has completed Black Mamba (8B) in Rifugio Barbara - Lowrie. This was the first 8B for the 24-year-old Italian who earlier in 2024, has sent eight boulders 8A or 8A+.

"I discovered this line last summer, and after fantasizing about it all winter, I started seriously trying it in mid-August. It seemed crazy, but I really wanted to try something at my limit that I could put my heart and soul into. I started taking all my pads to the block so I could try it on my own, at my own pace, and find all my methods. Every day I discovered a new feeling, a new turn of the foot, improved small sections. Meanwhile, the hunger to try it was growing.

On a Saturday with excellent conditions, I found myself for the first time under the block, with my friends who were there to support me. I was still far from feeling that it was possible. I started to try it and to my astonishment, I fell in the last moves. At that moment I realized it was really possible! I was thrilled! Then, after a week of tension and a snowfall to complicate everything, the day arrived. I started to warm up and felt light. The conditions were bad, it was drizzling, but I didn't care: I was going to climb the block!"