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Arco Irs 8c+ MP FA by Edu Marin

Tuesday, 20 October

Arco Irs 8c+ MP FA by Edu Marin

Edu Marin, one of the very best multi-pitch climbers in the world, has made the FA of the six pitches Arco Iris in Montserrat. The last four pitches are all 8a+ to 8c+. His manager Ivan Torres from Woguclimbing has helped out with further info.

The route had only old gear from the first aid ascension. Edu added between three and five bolts in each pitch, trying to respect the original route. He didn't use the old gear in his ascent just the new bolts. He started to try the route in 2019 but he didn't free the hard pitches until the beginning of this month. October 9th, after three final weeks, projecting it he made it belayed by his father.

"It's been a mental struggle. Knowing that you have to face an 8c+ pitch with only four bolts in 25 meters and potential falls up to 15 meters is not easy.

Last year the Spaniard did put up the first 9a+ multi-pitch in the world and although he has never been in Yosemite, he must be considered as one of the Top-3 MP/Big wall climbers in the world. In total, the 31-year-old has done more than 20 9a's and including having won the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006, he must be considered as one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world. "

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TCT 9a by Lorenzo Bogliacino

Tuesday, 20 October

TCT 9a by Lorenzo Bogliacino

Lorenzo Bogliacino, who has done four 8c+' since August, has done his second 9a, TCT in Gravere. Interesting is that he prior to this had never done an 8c+.

"I spent the first weeks after the lockdown trying to gain some strength and endurance back climbing in my home crags and eating healthier to get back to a decent weight. In July and August, I was able to travel quite a lot with my girlfriend and from there to September I had one of my best seasons ever doing some 8c+'s and especially "Noia" that challenged me a lot in the past. Afterwards, since I do not have a lot of 9a's relatively close to home, the choice was TCT. I struggled a bit with the first 8c part but after a couple of days, I realized I was able to do it every time and started to give serious attempts to the full line. I fell on the last move Saturday and did it Sunday in the morning! For me for sure 9a!"

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Tuesday, 20 October

Dave Graham does Ali Hulk sit 9b

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Two 8c's by both Jessica Pilz and Eva Hammelmüller

Monday, 19 October

Two 8c's by both Jessica Pilz and Eva Hammelmüller

Eva Hammelmüller and Jessica Pilz have been on a rock climbing trip in Arco with the Austria national team. Both did Terra Piatta 8c in Mont Colt where Eva also did Zero Tolleranza in Mont Colt. Jessy's second 8c was 5 Uve in Narango.

This were Eva'scomments yesterday, "The training camp with the national team is so much fun, and it is going extraordinarily well! We are already leaving tomorrow, so I am looking forward to climbing as much as possible on our last two climbing days!"

During the last two days, both Eva (in the picture) and Jessy did three routes 8b and 8b+ second go. Eva is #3 in the 8a ranking game and Jessy has qualified to Tokyo.

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Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio

Monday, 19 October

Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio

Anatole Bosio has done the third ascent of Aubade direct 9a+ in Sainte-Victoire. Last summer he did the second ascent of Gerome Pouvreau's Aubade from 2005 suggesting an upgrade to 9a and since then he has tried the 9a+ off and on.

“Aubade direct” is a 9 meters 7c+ into a kneebar rest followed by 6 insane moves very powerful, with long moves on tiny crimps. The hardest move is quite awkward, you need to dyno from a slopy undercling to a little crack." Fanatic Climbing has the full interview. Here is the video. © Martin Baudry

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Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber

Monday, 19 October

Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber

Karoline Sinnhuber, who previoulsy has done six 8B's, has done Sofa Surfer 8A (+) in Magic Wood. In total, the former competition climber has done 101 8A's and harder. (c) Fabian Leu

"Took me around 1,5h to send, was my first session on it. I‘m working on, One summer in paradise and Trullator (both 8B) at the moment. Tried Trullator for the first time this trip and it‘s a really cool and tricky compression/heel/toe roof ☺️ but I’m still waiting for a little cooler conditions for one summer 🙁."

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Alex Megos discovers stunning crags in Südtirol / South Tyrol

EDITORIAL

Monday, 19 October

Alex Megos discovers stunning crags in Südtirol / South Tyrol

Advertorial: Alex Megos is without a doubt one of those climbers who never tire of looking for new challenges and who take every opportunity to put their skills to the test. Recently he visited South Tyrol – popular for hiking and alpine climbing, amazing ski resorts and delicious food – but not yet that well-known among the climbing elite for its potential for hard climbs. However, this could change soon: "There seems to be A LOT of rock here, which I haven't heard of before. Looking forward to being back here as soon as possible!”

Alex Megos and his crew visited several areas in the Landro valley, where rock after rock is lined up. Right next to family-friendly places you can find mighty overhangs. Located in the middle of the Dolomites, the combination of fantastic rock quality and stunning backdrops offers more than just attractive photo motives. A big advantage of this area is that you can climb here in autumn and spring, but also in the middle of summer. Thanks to the high altitude and often shady orientation, there are good conditions even in the warm season: “I'm sure I'll be back again next summer!”

Vertical-Life offers you 2 crag collections for free to discover a total of 20 areas in South Tyrol:
- Best of South Tyrol from 6b to 8a
- Climbing in South Tyrol with the whole family

Use the code CLIMBSUEDTIROL to unlock both collections in the Vertical-Life App. Find more inspiration for your holiday and information about South Tyrol at this link.

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EDITORIAL

Sunday, 18 October

UK, SUI, GER and SWE only send Olympic athletes to Moscow

Last week, Austria said that they will not send any athletes to the European Championship in Moscow 20 - 29 November. In practice meaning that no further Austrians can qualify for Tokyo 2021. Now, the news is out that Germany, Switzerland, United Kingdom and Sweden will only send athletes that will compete in Combined.

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Saturday, 17 October

The Hunted 9a FA by BJ Tilden (39)

BJ Tilden has done his fifth 9a FA, The Hunted in Wold Point. Interesting is that the 39-year-old had his best year last year and with also three 8c+ in 2020, this year is even better.

"A link up, but for sure one of the best lines in the cave. Does the start of Stalk and Ambush(V11) into the meat of Okami(14b) and finishes on Spitting Venom(14c). Combines the best part of those three routes right in The middle of the cave. Psyched!!"

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Empath 9a+ FA by Carlo Traversi

Saturday, 17 October

Empath 9a+ FA by Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi, who previously this year did his first 8C+ boulder, has done the FA of Empath 9a+ in Tahoe. It took him including bolting and cleaning some 15 days. (c) Mary Mecklenburg

" I bolted it last summer and started working on it. Made some goods links last fall. This year I prioritized this route above everything. Climbing on Creature (the 8C+) was training for it. Once the temperatures dropped last week I started giving redpoint tries. Fell off the top a few times but managed to finish it up this past Sunday. It is slightly overhung, about 20 meters tall. Granite tufas and slopers. No real rests. Very bouldery." More insight on his Insta.

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