LATEST NEWS

Two 8c's by Ella Adamovska (19)

Tuesday, 4 August

Two 8c's by Ella Adamovska (19)

Ella Adamovska, #2 in the Euro Youth Champ last year, reports on Insta that she has done two 8c's; Los Brňos in Višnové and Insomnia in Krpcovo. (c) Petr Piechowicz
"As I have been training for a very long time for the comp season, even more during the lockdown, I’ve decided to take a short break and spend some time in the crags nearby my country- in Slovakia. During four days I managed to send my longer term-roof project Los Brňos 8c and also the beautiful line Insomnia 8c which took me only 9 tries to complete. Both routes are very powerful, steep and not really my style so it makes me even happier. Also, if I am well informed, I did the FFAs. Now back to the gyms to finish the preparations for Briancon and next comps."

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Lukas Mayerhofer strikes in Silvretta

Tuesday, 4 August

Lukas Mayerhofer strikes in Silvretta

Lukas Mayerhofer has during eight climbing days in Silvretta done 19 boulders 8A and harder including Anam Cara 8B+, which he did on his second session. In the picture, is More Shining 8B. Several videos on his Insta. "I tried to climb as many of the classics as possible but the skin management is pretty hard to handle in this area."

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EDITORIAL

Tuesday, 4 August

Ondra: Extremely scary bolting

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Tuesday, 4 August

Freaks of the Industry 8B by Brooke Raboutou (19)

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has done her fifth 8B during the last five weeks, Freaks of the Industry in RMNP. The 19-year-old is #2 in the female ranking game. "Yay! Happy to put this one down! Felt easy when I did it but felt hard when I didn’t do it, classic. One of the rare climbs that I feel is perfect for the grade, felt like a solid 13 to me, not easier or harder!"

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Youth onsight ranking - VIP

EDITORIAL

Monday, 3 August

Youth onsight ranking - VIP

Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world and especially when it comes to onsights, he is totally superior. In 2005, the year he turned 12, he onsighted 8 routes 8b and 19 8a+. In order to stimulate and order to credit the youngsters focusing on onsight, here is the Top-10. Noteworthy is that Ondra's score being 12-years-old was 12 420, would have made him #3 in 2020! An onsight gives 147 bonus points, i.e. almost three grades extra.

1. Maho Normand 2005 - 11 614: #1 also based on Top-50, in the picture.
2. Tanguy Merard 2003 - 11 554
3. Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi 2005 - 11 458
4. Michele Reusa 2006 - 10 837
5. Pierre Marzullo 2007 - 10 702

6. Iziar Martinez 2005 - 10 606: #1 Female: #2 based on Top-50
7. Lucija Tarkuš 2003 - 10 550: #2 Female
8. Piotr Niznik 2005 - 10 250
9. Marketa Janosova 2004 - 10 162: #3 Female
10. David Cabanillas 2005 - 10 116

Gioele Piffer 2006 is #3 based on Top-50 followed by Liam Mayerhuber 2010. We will follow up the onsights ranking every month in order to challenge the youth the Ondra onsight style :)

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La proue debridée 8c+ by Mejdi Schalck (16)

Monday, 3 August

La proue debridée 8c+ by Mejdi Schalck (16)

Mejdi Schalck, who was Top-4 in the three latest Euro Youth Cups he did, has done his first 8c+, La proue debridée in Roch de rame. "I started to climb outdoors three months ago and I went to Roch de rame, near Briancon, in between two comps. I needed six tries to do this very intense and bouldery route. In less than three weeks, I will be competing in my first World Cup in Briançon."

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L’étau d’intérêt 8c by Nolwen Berthier

Sunday, 2 August

L’étau d’intérêt 8c by Nolwen Berthier

Nolwen Berthier, who did her first 8c+ in May, has done her fourth 8c in 2020, L’étau d’intérêt in Verdon. It was bolted last year by Antonin Rhodes and Nolwen made the third repeat. (c) Théo Cartier, from another route.

"It is a new kingline on a beautiful single tufa. Powerful and demanding, climbing this line has been a really nice process from finding the beta, breaking some foot and losing a lot of skin, to clip the chain."

In 2018, the French was #14 in the Briancon World Cup. "I always loved rockclimbing but I was more focused on competition until last year. This year I have the opportunity to spend most of my time outside so I take advantage of it as much as possible. For 2020, I’ll go with the flow to push my limit in hard project and travel to explore new amazing lines, while combining my passion for climbing with my working life as an engineer in sustainable development."

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Une arquée pour le criquet 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Sunday, 2 August

Une arquée pour le criquet 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Michele Reusa has done his first 8c, Une arquée pour le criquet in Fournel, after just three sessions. In 2017, his father Iuri made the headlines doing his first 8c+ at age 43. With two 8b+' this year he is tied #2 in the family with Matteo (12).

They train three times a week and on the weekends they are pushing it outdoors. The trainer of the youngsters is Daniele Martina. Next up is Tout a Bloc which which the brothers won respectively last year as they also did in the Italian Championship. In the picture is also big brother and boulderer Elia.

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Practice of the Wild 8B+ (C) Antoine Girard

Saturday, 1 August

Practice of the Wild 8B+ (C) Antoine Girard

Antoine Girard has done Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood in just three sessions. Video on his Insta. "For me it is an hard 8b+ comparing with my other 8b+. Moreover I can’t count it as my first 8c I want a real 8c for my first one."

During July, the 20-year-old has logged another 13 boulders 8A to 8B+ in Magic Wood, included Dark Sakai 8B in the picture. In the8a monthly ranking game, he is #3.

" I started climbing some 12 years ago and begun outdoor climbing 3 years ago. I have built my own training center in my barn. I’ve got a special school planing which permitted to train myself 20 hours per week."

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Bierstadt 7C+ by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (56)

Saturday, 1 August

Bierstadt 7C+ by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (56)

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, the very best female competition climber in the early 90'ies and also the third female to do 8b+, has done Bierstadt 7C+ in RMNP. (c) Ryan Arment

How much do you train lately and how many sessions did it take to send?
I'm not really training, just getting outside more. I got Bierstadt the third time I tried it. The two previous times I got to that particular boulder after trying too many other boulders and I was tired. The moves were fun with fresh skin. :-)

Robyn runs the ABC Kids Climbing and she has coached many of the best in the USA like; Emily Harrington, Margo Hayes, Colin Duffy, Natalia Grossman beside her children Brooke, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, and Shawn. She did her first 8c at age 49 and just three months ago she did yet another 8A boulder.

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