NEWS

EDITORIAL

5 October 2022

Zef 8B+ by Jimmy Webb


Lawless extra 8A by Abigail Humber (17)

4 October 2022

Lawless extra 8A by Abigail Humber (17)

Abigail Humber, who last spring did her first 8c, has done Lawless Extra (8A) at Fayette Station. (c) Tara Bennett

"I’m super excited that I was able to send Lawless Extra, and get the second ascent, as well as the first female ascent! On the day I ended up sending it, I thought I’d sent this boulder in the morning, only to find out once I’d packed up and returned home that I had started in the wrong position… I decided to go back out to the boulder in the afternoon, and I managed to send even though it was far too hot and humid. I was able to get the send faster than I was expecting as well, only taking three sessions to climb the boulder!"


EDITORIAL

2 October 2022

Raggamuffin 8C FA by Aidan Roberts


Stop Sika 8c by Chris Frick (54)

2 October 2022

Stop Sika 8c by Chris Frick (54)

Chris Frick has done Stop Sika (8c) in Rawyl. It was equipped by Betrand Martenet and the FA was done in 2003 by Didier Berthod at 8c. The completely natural line – hence the name – became an instant classic and settled at 8b+. In 2019 Bertrand rebolted the route, establishing in the middle section a more direct and harder line. After Samuel Ometz Re-FA the consensus now it is back to 8c. (c) Isabelle Bihr

"What a journey! At age of 54, it’s still time to rock’n’roll! No need to give up, keep on living the dream! ‘Stop Sika’ is a beauty. Well, for my generation 8c still sounds like a journey to Mars! When I was already 20 years old this was the hardest grade at the time. So it’s intimidating. Anyway, I had to try! I said to myself better fail on a dream route at my limit than regret too late to have never really tried.

The starting point was one year ago by checking the moves. Couldn’t do the two cruxes. From there the process was underway. My last 8c send was in 2016 at age of 48. To regain experience and confidence I hopped on other 8c’s, foremost trying ‘Mind Control’ at Oliana that could be the sibling of ‘Stop Sika’. The wonderful Vanda Michalkova created a training regime targeting my weaknesses. For several months I lived a climbing monk’s life spending most of my free time training. I never took T-Level supplementals (unhealthy and dangerous!). I work 4/7 and I’m not sponsored.
"


Grotta Azzurra and Špekmen 8A+ by Jana Svecová (Vincourková)

1 October 2022

Grotta Azzurra and Špekmen 8A+ by Jana Svecová (Vincourková)

Jana Svecová (Vincourková) has done Grotta Azzurra (8A+) in Moravský kras and Špekmen (8A+) in Petrohrad. The latter she thought was a soft 8A. The 25-year-old has published a longer video from two days of bouldering also including a 7C flash and some easier sends.

Jana, did her first 8B+ this spring and has in total done 15 boulders 8A+ and harder, since 2019, some of which she has chosen to downgrade. As a youngster, she was an active competition climber, winning a Euro youth cup in 2012, but burnout caused her to take a two-year break before taking up climbing again in 2019. (c) Markéta Nevělíková

How is your climbing life nowadays?
My climbing life nowadays is a bit different since we built our own bouldering gym. We really enjoyed building it, but the training routine changed a lot compared to when we did not have the TeePee gym. The previous two years we climbed only on Moonboard and did some fingerboarding. Now we also fingerboard a lot but whenever we can we go to TeePee, probably as it's new to us and it's a lot of fun. Weekends, as usual, we spent in the rocks, and Sunday evening, the gym again. Sometimes it´s hard for me to be motivated to do all this because I have a full-time job and sometimes I am very tired when I go to training, but luckily when I convince myself to go and have a session when I'm there I get psyched and have a normal session. It takes a lot of convincing some days, cause we climb a lot. 😃 So most days we spent like this just climbing in our new gym then do some additional specific training for finger power or some core training etc.

What is your full time job and do you also work in the gym? My position is HR in an IT company 🙂. And the gym is mainly maintained by my husband. He puts all the holds on the wall and do all the stuff around the wall. Teepee is not a commercial gym but some of our friends have free access so we have like a small commutiny there which is nice and motivational.

Do you have long-term dream in climbing?
I have some, like climbing 8B+ or 8C, but I'm just 158 cm tall and have only a +1 ape index, so it's really hard for me to find something with reachable holds. Sometimes I am not even able to send 7B when it's reachy. But there is one 8B+ in Austria that I should be able to send. With the 8Cs I think if I would find the right one, just on tiny incut crimps I would be able to send it. Any suggestions? For the outdoor climbing, it is quite hard, with the job to go somewhere further for more days, last two years we were just unlucky alot, whenever we went somewhere behind the borders, the weather was trash. So that's why we are going again for a trip to UAE in December, to further develop local boulder potential, which I am looking forward to the most even without any specific project there.


Pure Dreaming plus 9a (+) by Stefano Ghisolfi

30 September 2022

Pure Dreaming plus 9a (+) by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has done Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) in Arco, giving it a personal 9a grade. "Better beta was found in the upper part by some repeaters. So this time it is not a downgrade because of kneebars."

Will you go for Paris 2024?
I still don't know what to do next year, the main goal will be Silence (9c).


EDITORIAL

30 September 2022

Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"


EDITORIAL

30 September 2022

Silence season finale and Move, hard 9b by Ghisolfi


EDITORIAL

29 September 2022

Omen Nomen 9a 2nd go by Ondra after a flash attempt


EDITORIAL

28 September 2022

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Slovenia a country with only 2 million inhabitants has been one of the leading nations for some 20 years straight now.

1. Japan 42 138
2. USA 31 821
3. Slovenia 24 254
4. France 18 013
5. Germany 17 626

6. Austria 14 358
7. Korea 14 150
8. Italy 11 843
9. UK 10 401
0. Switzerland 6 936