Martina Demmel makes second try ascents of Pati Noso (8c+) and Margalefas (8c)

Martina Demmel first made a second try send of Margafelas (8c) in Margalef. "A surprise at the end of the day. [It] Has the potential for a big classic but unfortunately, a bit crumbly since I even broke 2 edges while sending... not the style you would expect when it's named after the area... found some solid beta & probably my style;)" (c) Vera Bakker

The following day she kept her second try streak going by doing the same with Pati noso (8c+) in Siurana. "I was dreaming about this line for years! While checking the moves on the new upper part, I got a big flapper from the crux hold but somehow, the strong wind kept pushing me to the top the next (2nd) try!! Muchas gracias Marius & Olga! Riding that wave..."

Over the last three years, the German has been the best female onsight climber in the world with 38 onsights 8a+ to 8b+.

Have you tried any harder onsights or anything a little more long-term on this trip?
Not really but somehow I also haven't tried [to onsight] anything in the 8a+-8b+ range, so I don't know if it would have been possible... I've tried something harder but now the weather seems not ideal to go back to the shade [where it's located]. Mostly, I feel too mentally tired to keep pushing or "forcing" myself to use the last few days to try something what for the moment might be out of my reach... So, I'm probably gonna try some single day projects or anything I'm truly motivated for the last few days [in order] to feel recharged when I [soon] go back to training!

Marine Thevenet adds a few 8A+'s and more to her done list

Marine Thevenet, who has done over 100 boulders 8A and harder, reports on Insta video that over the last seven weeks she has sent Nobody ist der Größte (8A), Sissyfuss (8A+) and The Great Shark Hunt (8A+) in Chironico as well as Darkness (8A+) in Brione.

Which boulder was most special or meant the most to you?
Haha the most special… maybe Sissyfuss. I injured my pulley on it back in the day and it was really challenging to go back to it. The first move requires pure strength and when I tried the boulder this winter I would have been happy to complete just that one move, as a form of revenge and progress. I actually managed to do that move several times and [then I] fell at the mantle because I didn’t check the beta.

What is next?
Ticino offers a lifetime list of boulders to try - so it is not difficult to find other projects. I am motivated to enjoy the process of projecting on harder climbs for me, it is something I want to experiment these [coming] days.

13 year-old Meini Li ticks Tornado (8c+)

Meini Li, who did her first 8c at age 10, has redpointed the 40 m long Tornado (8c+) in Yangshuo. The 13-year-old Chinese climber needed six days and 13 attempts for the send. (c) Liu ”Karma” Chuang

Jonathan Siegrist completes Me I Eat Dust (9a+)

Jonathan Siegrist, who has 75 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has completed Me I Eat Dust (9a+) at the Unknown Crag in central Texas. (c) Ryan White

2nd ascent of this obscure, intense and amazing route from Cody Roth. Very cool precision style with no rests. Massive thanks to the crew here and to Cody for the motivation! I made rapid progress in my first few days but I underestimated how hard the final moves would be from the ground... My preparation felt to be perfect - so happy to fight through it last night!

It climbs the crux of a 8c+ called ‘I Me Mine’ and then without rest does a long and amazing V12 [8A+] boulder problem”

How many sessions did you put in?
I tried it once when I was visiting 3 years ago and loved the movement. As for working sessions not sure. Been here for 2 weeks but I had some trouble with conditions - it’s so hard to get it perfect here as the cliff faces the sun and the winters are very short in Texas! For this reason night sessions are best.

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was the third 9A for the former competitive climber who has already completed Burden of Dreams (9A) and Alphane (9A). The 25-year-old stopped competing in 2021 after having had his best year in 2019, twice placing fourth in the World Cup. (c) Teresa Coimbra

Coming out to Las Vegas, I had no idea how this trip was going to go as I do not climb on sandstone often and Sleepwalker did not look my style. Sending Sleepwalker 8C/V15 in only three days completely blew my mind and having a long time left on the trip, I was pretty confident I could have a good stab at getting Return of the Sleepwalker done.

In the last session before the send, everything just clicked. I was feeling confident but as the weather forecast looked bleak with a storm closing in, I was only able to take one rest day before heading back out for another session. I still felt quite tired so I was unsure about even trying it. However, after warming up, the moves were feeling great and I decided to give it a go. The first attempt went perfectly up to the sloper but then I really messed up the next move through to the slot and almost dropped it. Somehow, I recovered and hit the last hard move perfectly. Pulling onto the slab was incredible and I had to take a minute to get my breath back before heading up to the top.

Grade wise I still believe the stand start is only 8C/V15 but I do think the sit start adds enough for it to remain 9A/V17. In comparison to the other climbs I have done at this grade, I think Return of the Sleepwalker comes in around the bottom end of the grade. Burden of Dreams was harder but it is such a different style. [However] I think ‘Return’ probably came in harder than Alphane. Currently, I am very unsure about the distinction between 8C+ and 9A and I think it will take some time and a broader consensus of climbers operating at this level to get the distinction right.

My next project is dependent on conditions but I would love to head back to Arco and try to finish Excalibur (Stefano Ghisolfi’s 9b+/5.15c) or back to Brno to work more on Terranova. I would also love to spend some time finding new lines in Scotland but the weather seems to always be against that!”

Did you find and use any new beta for the send?
I used different beta on the lower section but it’s actually not new and was the original beta Daniel was trying. I do think it’s easier beta though (definitely for me anyway)!

How was day one and your first impression?
Just pure psych on the first day. I couldn’t believe I had made it to the boulder and it really is as good as people say.

Adam Ondra does Narcissus (9a) second go

Adam Ondra has done Narcissus (9a) in Oltrefinale / Albenga, on his second go. “Amazing line by Matteo Gambaro. Me and Seb [Bouin] we both used kneepads and took kind of different direction/beta on the very top (what we believe is more intuitive) which makes it much easier. and I think it could be soft 9a like this. The way Matteo did it is much harder and could be even 9a+?” (c) Jara Sijka

The 40 meter route is a link up of two 8b+’ with a hard roof section in between, Gambaro was 45 when he did the FA.

Adam has also added two more 8c+'s to his scorecard meaning that he is fast approaching 500 ascents 8c+ and harder.

Vitamania (8c+) - ” Did it in the evening after sending Bon Voyage (2 tries), more filming in BV and on the way down, I checked it for 10min, rested 3mins and did it with headlamp. Probably soft 8c+?”

Stéroïde bul (8c+) - ” So close to flash after Jules showed me the moves.”

Gio Placci does Captain Nemo (8C) and The New Abnormal (8B+)

Gio Placci has done The New Abnormal (8B+) and Captain Nemo (8C) in Valle Bavona. “Such a gem! Shout out to my blood bro Pietro Vidi for the FA. Captain Nemo is the sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). ”

During the last four months the Italian has done eight boulder problems 8B+ to 8C, in spite having had a finger injury for the first nine months of 2023. In 2022, he did three 9a+’s and was #21 in the Lead WC in Edinburgh.

Can you tell us more about Nemo and New Abnormal?
The breakdown is about 8B+ soft into knee bar rest into the stand that is 8A+. It is for sure one of the best hard boulders I have ever tried. Five small sessions [for Nemo] and three for Abnormal. I used a different beta compared to Jimmy’s beta , that’s why I think 8B+ is a right grade.

What are you looking to do next?
It is time to switch to my real discipline that’s lead! World Cup final and climb hard routes but I still don’t know which ones.

Martina Demmel sends Coma Sant Pere (8c+)

Martina Demmel has done Coma Sant Pere (8c+) in Margalef. ”Still in disbelief! How I missed the feeling of dominating almost all the 45 meters... keeping my focus after passing my previous highpoint was another crux! 6 tries & more on Insta soon:)” (c) Jordi Rullo

The next day she moved to Siurana and completed 2 x 30 (8c). ”Having a 100% humidity on those always soaked holds was far from ideal but since Vera started the send-train again, I had to jump on as well;) had it in my mind for 4 years when I touched the holds the first time! 9 tries in total.

How long are you staying in Spain and when will you start preparing for the World Cup?
I'm gonna stay in Margalef until the end of February because then it's time to go back home for the selection comp for the World cups. This trip was already planned with the national team coaches since last summer and it was supposed to be a little change in between of longer training periods and since I'm only focusing on Lead, there's still some time until the season properly starts! And I'm also doing a few off-the-wall exercises here.