LATEST NEWS

Wednesday, 23 September

Kyparissi

Gondor 8c and Der Seewächter 8b+ by Eva Hammelmüller

Tuesday, 22 September

Gondor 8c and Der Seewächter 8b+ by Eva Hammelmüller

Eva Hammelmüller has done Der Seewächter 8b+, (c) Andre Costar, and Gondor 8c in Ötztal. In total, the 20-year-old has now done six 8c's in 2020 and she is #5 in the 8a ranking game.

"Gondor felt really hard when I tried it for the first time, but I made good progress from each try to the next. I struggled a bit on the lower crux, so I changed my beta slightly. On the next go, I climbed through these hard moves and could send the route straight away! As university starts again in October, I will climb a lot in Ötztal, but I would also like to go to Arco and maybe Tessin or Magic Wood on long weekends. Definitely a lot of outdoor climbing!"

Read more

MORE NEWS

Tuesday, 22 September

Hoyamoros Highballs

Tuesday, 22 September

Ten 8a and 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (55)

Cathy Wagner has during the last six weeks done eight 8a's and two 8a+;
Campagne in Arudy, "Small sector of great quality! Exceptional route very overhanging in a compact pebble! Climbing sections and knees to temporize, all I can do! In agony in the heat of Thursday, almost "easy" in the fall conditions of Saturday. In 3 days."

Quand la folie des hommes gronde in Revilla, "Magnificent route mainly on colos, and about twenty movements, which leans very strongly like all the others in this sector to the right. A saving knee separates the 2 sections for which I had to do my own way because Seb's methods are classy and beautiful to look at from the bottom but just ultra-physical ..! In a pure fight 🤪 to my 4th climb in 3 days."

The 55-year-old has now done 777 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most in the world for a female. Interestingly, Cathy has performed more or less the same during the last twenty years. It should also be noted that around one third of her ascents are done second go so there should still be room for an 8b+ personal best if she started to project one.

Read more
Super Power 8C/+ FA  by Aidan Roberts

Monday, 21 September

Super Power 8C/+ FA by Aidan Roberts

Aidan Roberts reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Super Power 8C/+ at the LandStones, which is a sit start to Manpower 8A. He started trying it four years ago and in total it took him some nine sessions. (c) Sam Pratt

" In terms of pure difficulty and minimalism, this one takes the top spot and undoubtedly barges it’s way to my hardest climb to date whilst also aligning perfectly with my style. Steep, body tension, wide moves and small crimps and, from my experience, possibly one of the best of it’s style I’ve come across."

In regards why he did not go for 8C+, he comments Insta, "I’m not yet so willing to commit to this new territory with so little experience so, despite it’s slightly lame nature, will propose the annoying slash grade of 8C/+. Perhaps some more clarity will arise once I’ve developed a little more experience of cutting edge climbing."

It should be noted that the 21-year-old one month ago did the FA of Outliers 8C at Trowbarrow and one week ago did the FA of Copperline 8B+ in the Coppermines. Five years ago he won a Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors, his best result is #19 in the World Cup.

Read more

Monday, 21 September

Ondra downgrades to 9a by kneebars

Read more
Seta ibérica 9a+ by Alex Garriga

Monday, 21 September

Seta ibérica 9a+ by Alex Garriga

Alex Garriga, has done his second 9a+ in 2020, Seta ibérica in Cuenca which Jorge Diaz-Rullo put up last year. (c) Alfonso Martinez

"It is a link-up of the hardest part of Seta negra (8c+) and the hardest part of Circo Iberico (9a/+). There is also a resistance traverse for connecting them."

Read more

Monday, 21 September

Frasassi Climbing Festival

Monday, 21 September

Hukkataival in Argentina