William Bosi has made the first repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. Excalibur climbs a 40-degree overhanging wall in Drena, near Arco. Initially bolted by Cristian Dorigatti and Morris Fontanari, the route was taken on by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2021. After two years of effort, he successfully completed it in October 2023. (c) crimp.films
The 26-year-old scot started attempting the route in late 2022 and had a total of 21 sessions on Excalibur. However, he notes that only ten were productive, as poor conditions limited his attempts in the others.
”This is one of the craziest and rewarding lines I have experienced and pulling onto the
top of the route is something I will always remember. [Excalibur] was my longest project
on a rope since Mutation (9a+ at Raven Tor UK) so I was so psyched to piece it all
together finally.
The conditions make a huge difference with this route. Too hot and the holds don’t
work, too humid and the holds don’t work but too cold and your fingers go numb and
don’t work. Lastly, you need good skin for the holds to bite properly so I needed
everything to come together to grab the ascent.
The first go of the day everything went perfectly, I felt like I was floating through the
climb and arrived at my previous high point feeling strong. Setting up for the final hard
move I was really confident but disaster struck and I just missed the hold and fell off.
I took an hour rest, warmed up and went again. This time I arrived at the rest feeling tired
battling through the upper section but on the final crux I landed perfectly into the slot.
Pumped out of my mind, I almost fell jumping to the jug but just about kept it together
for the top out.”
