Charlotte Frank does American Hustle (8c)
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
American Hustle is one of the 50-meter-long gems on the big cliff of Oliana. Bolted by Walker Emerson and Sam Elias in 2014 and freed by the latter, the line consists of many physical boulder sections with good rests in between. It's characterized by some pretty shoulder-intense and complex moves that seemed a little bit weird to me in the first moment. After I figured out the beta, the climbing felt flowier though. In my case, this route turned out to be one of these projects that you can climb pretty quickly with one stop in the crux – but then you end up trying it for quite a while with one stop. It's even more rewarding if you can link it all together at some point, even without it feeling too exhausting anymore. It's definitely a route worth trying!
Alex Megos reports on Instagram that after a disappointing performance at the Olympics, he traveled to Flatanger and in just five sessions he was able to compl…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
American Hustle 8c OS by Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret reports on Insta that she has onsighted her second 8c, in Oliana. It was opened by Sam Elias in 2014, video of FA, and is located right to Fish …
Oliana almost "rebuilt"
Oliana is one of the most famous hard-end crags in the world. Last June, a wildfire partly destroyed the wall and most of the fixed gear. Svana Bjarnason has le…
Taisei Homma onsights 8c and 8b+ in Oliana
Taisei Homma, who the last two years has been #2 and #3 in the Lead World Cup, reports on Instagram that he has onsighted Fish eye (8c) and Paper mullat (8b+) i…
American Hustle 8c OS by Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret reports on Insta that she has onsighted her second 8c, in Oliana. It was opened by Sam Elias in 2014, video of FA, and is located right to Fish …
Oliana almost "rebuilt"
Oliana is one of the most famous hard-end crags in the world. Last June, a wildfire partly destroyed the wall and most of the fixed gear. Svana Bjarnason has le…
Taisei Homma onsights 8c and 8b+ in Oliana
Taisei Homma, who the last two years has been #2 and #3 in the Lead World Cup, reports on Instagram that he has onsighted Fish eye (8c) and Paper mullat (8b+) i…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Michaela Kiersch completes Dreamtime (8C)
Michaela Kiersch has repeated Fred Nicole’s classical Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. The Doctor in Hand Therapy has now completed 17 boulders graded 8B or harder,…
Irmgard Braun, 72, ticks Le string à Fredo (7c)
Irmgard Braun, who was featured in an interview sending a 7c+ in 2021, has done Le string à Fredo (7c) in Gorges du Tarn. "This year I tried the route on six d…