Amandine Loury sends La Ligne Claire (8c+) along with an 8c

Amandine Loury has, in the same day, done La ligne claire (8c+) and Les petits chefs du néant (8c) in Saint Léger. (c) Jean-Luc Jeunet

La ligne she had been trying for several years. After the send she decided to also try Les petits which she worked on one year ago.

I always have been passionate about the rock, even when I was competing. In 2012 I decided to stop competition and to spend all my free time on the rock. I’m sport teacher close to Saint léger du ventoux and Buoux. I practice rock climbing 3-4 times per week and this is the main training I really do. I’m very lucky to live in this amazing area, surrounded by world-class crags.”

Anak Verhoeven is historically speaking one of the best female Lead competition climbers. She made finals in the WC 36 times in a row. In total, she made the podium 19 times, but in 2019 she stopped competing due to injuries. In the second half of 2021, she fully recovered but decided to focus only …

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Victor Guillermin, 18, ticks Le Cadafist (9a)

Victor Guillermin, who won the bronze in the Euro Championship last September, has repeated Gerome Pouvreau's Le Cadafist (9a) in St Léger. (c) Emile Pino

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was looking for a side project near Grenoble and saw the Megos video in Le Cadafist. I wanted so badly to try it! I was not disappointed. This route can be divided into 3 parts, a first 8a, then a good rest, where you can sit on a tree. It is so weird to rest on a tree, but it is allowed, and it gave the name to the route. Only the goat Megos didn't take it 🤣. After that comes two 8c's, separated by a good rest. The first one, powerful, didn't feel that hard, but the second one, pumpy on crimps, was way harder, especially the last big dynamic move to a crimp. On my 4th and 5th sessions, I fell on this move. Finally, on my 6th session, with my skin completely destroyed, I managed to send this gem! I am so glad to be able to do such hard routes! Now back to training for Stoking the Fire (9b), the main goal of this year!

What about comps this year?
2024 will be my last youth competition year. So I'll try to get the world title! And I'll try to get in the senior French Team... If it's not this year, it will be the next one. I'm not in a rush.

Stefano Carnati does Martin Krpan (9a)

Stefano Carnati, who has 25 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. "Martin Krpan is a classic of Mišja Peč and although it might not be as appealing as other routes I was curious to check it out sooner or later. So I first tried it in December and realized it actually climbs way better than it appears! I had some attempts during different days struggling mostly with the cold temps. Yesterday conditions were warmer and pump was all I had to fight against! The decision to climb it without kneebars and the rest out left at the top was mainly dictated by how this route was originally climbed back in the days (I’m not against kneepads at all)." (c) Nicholas Hobley

How hard do you think it would be with kneepads?
Hard to guess but kneepads allow you to rest at three crucial points just before and after the main crux. I suppose 8c\+ max. As I said, it was put up in 2001… it’s a link… rock climbing is just a game it’s good to play… as I said I’m not against kneepads at all. I believe that nowadays routes must be climbed/graded in the best conditions and in the easiest possible way.

Michaela Kiersch does Nagual (8B)

Michaela Kiersch, who last week did five boulder problems 8A to 8B in Hueco Tanks (TX), has sent Nagual (8B) in just two sessions. (c) Nic Oklobzija

"My first session was short and I did the moves in two overlapping sections. Paid the price in blood on this one — ripped off basically my whole index pad while giving warm up tries but sometimes you gotta tape it up, pop an ibu, and get it done. The holds are tiny and sharp but I wanted to send so I just taped it up and tried my hardest."

The 29-year-old has now completed eleven boulders 8B and harder, out of which nine she's done in the last 18 months. She has also climbed 15 routes 8c+ to 9a, with most of those ascents taking place over the the last two years, cementing her place among the top elite female climbers globally.