Toby Roberts and Janja Garnbret win Lead in China

Toby Roberts, who was first in the semifinal, won the final on countback over Taisei Homma in Wujiang. The bronze was awarded to Sorato Anraku who was second in the boulder World Cup, in Keqiao, just five days ago.

Janja Garnbret had another dominating victory, topping all four routes with ease. The runner-up was Zhilu Luo who, who also made the podium at the first boulder WC, earning a bronze. Final highlights © Kazushige Nakajima/IFSC

1. Toby Roberts GBR 36+ : Janja Garnbret SLO Top
2. Taisei Homma JPN 36+ : Zhilu Luo CHI 44+
3. Sorato Anraku JPN 32+ : Chaehyun Seo KOR 43+
4. Zento Murashita JPN 24+ : Natsuki Tanii JPN 40
Complete results

Garnbret: “I was just having a lot of fun and just excited to be back competing. I had a good start back with Boulder and I hoped I would have the same with Lead, and I guess my Lead shape is as good as Boulder. I’m excited now to go back home and get some more training in before I return to do the World Cup in Innsbruck where I will do Boulder and Lead, and then it’s Paris.”

Roberts: “I slightly misread the beta, but I managed to stay there and compose myself and find the right way luckily. Preparation for Paris is going well and I’m using this competition to see how I am doing after a hard winter's training and I'm just enjoying competing on the comp circuit. So things are going well.”