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The Dawn Wall - Trailer  Facebook
 

 
 
Janja Garnbret and her amazing IFSC track record  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last 19 IFSC World Cups and Championships Janja Garnbret has participated in, she has won twelve and never missed the podium. The 19 year old was allowed to start competing in the World Cup in 2015 and out of 22 Lead events, she has won twelve and missed the podium once. In bouldering she started the World Cup circuit in 2016 and she has more or less just competed in half of the events out of which she has won close to 50 %.

In two weeks time, she is a very big favorite to defend her Lead World Champion title from Paris in 2016 and also the favorite for the Boulder Championship. Once these two titles are secured, one could say that the teenager is the best female competition climber in the history. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
8B+ and much more by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done his second 8B+, The Source in Malatal. "First I thought this can't be so much harder than the stand, then it became a real battle. Today it finally went down on the second go of my third session! Perfect line and perfect conditions today!"

During the last two weeks, the 17-year-old has also done four other 8A+'. During the summer the German has also done seven routes 8b+ tom 8c+. In the senior Combined ranking game he is #3.

 
 
Slovenian dominance in Munich  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn a rather strange final were all boulders were topped but were most actually had very hard time to move from the start holds on the three first boulders. We saw a nice happy ending with five tops in just six tries on the last boulder and two very popular Slovenians on top. (c) Heiko Wilhelm - Innsbruck 2018

Gregor Vezonik was #50 in the WC 2017 and started out in the same level in 2018 by being #51 in Meiringen. Then in Moscow something kicked in and he was #3 in Moscow and overall in 2018 he ended #5.

The overall winner 2018 Jernej Kruder also from Slovenia has a similar story but at a much higher level. In between 2010 and 2017, he has always been in between #8 and 31 overall before winning in great style 2018.

Interesting is that Gregor and Jernej have almost opposite approach when it comes to training and climbing focus. Jernej is almost not training indoors at all and instead he enjoys all disciplines including trad and multipitches. Gregor on the other hand has a structured approach mainly focusing on indoor bouldering.

1. Gregor Vezonik 24 SLO
2. Jernej Kruder 23 (9/7) SLO
3. Jakob Schubert 23 (9/11) AUT
Complete results

 
 
Garnbret wins but Nonaka is the champion  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe overall world cup 2018 was decided on the last boulder when Akiyo Noguchi flashed to put pressure on Miho Nonaka. She also flashed, secured the overall title, and actually starting cry holding the last top. Then Janja Garnbret made her fourth flash in a row to win the competition. This was as exciting and thrilling as it can get. These three girls have been totally superior in 2018 and their worst result were third. Complete results (c) Heiko Wilhelm

 
 
Garnbret, Gibert and Fujiwaki win semi in Munich  Facebook
 

Yuji Fujiwaki, who never has made it to the final, won the semi by being the only one to top all four boulders. Also in the qually, the Japanese was the only one to top all problems. Among the female, Janja Garnbret and Fanny Gibert were tied winners. Both Japan and Slovenia did get two male and two female into the final. In total Japan got 5 female Top-11 and 6 male Top-9. Complete results

 
 
Allrounder Kruder secures the overall Boulder title in the semi  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder is the Boulder World Cup winner 2018 as he made it to the final in Munich at the same time as Tomoa Narasaki ended #9. Interestingly, the Slovenian says he seldom trains indoors and instead he is an outdoor allrounder doing everything also multi-pitches. In the 8a Combined ranking game, the 28 year old is #7 and he is going for Tokyo 2020. (c) Eddie Fowke

On his Instagram he reported that during the last week he did a 300 m as well as an 8c sport route. During the last weeks he has also been climbing in Céüse and competed in a DWS as well as in the Lead and Speed WC in Chamonix.

 
 
6 Japanese female Top-12 in qually  (8) Facebook
 

Janja Garnbret and Miho Nonaka topped all five boulders in their respectively group. Noteworthy is that Japan had six female in the Top-12 which is a new record for them and confirms their up-going trend. Complete results

Miho leads by five points ahead of Akiyo Noguchi in the overall ranking. Akiyo needs to be at worst #2 and beat Miho in order to win. Janja has only competed in two Boulder WCs in 2018 (1 - 2) and if she continues on that level she will probably be #4 overall.

 
 
9 male Japanese to semifinal in Munich  Facebook
 

Once again the Japanese dominated the boulder qualification with eight guys within Top-14 and a total of nine to the Top-20 semifinal. In the Top-10, there were only Germans and Slovenians accompanying the Japanese. Complete results

The Boulder WC in Munich is the seventh and last in the WC 2018. Jernej Kruder leads four points ahead of Tomoa Narasaki so pretty much who wins the battle, if they are Top-9, will be the overall champion.

Noteworthy is that 126 athletes competed but only one third managed to do more than one boulder. As many as 29 did a maximum of one zone. Live-streaming of semi and final 12.00 and 18.20.

 
 
Duffy and Tanii make perfect ending in Moscow  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"Hollywood ending!" The IFSC live-streaming commentator summarizes The Moscow Youth World Championship just after it has finished with two great Tops by Collin Duffy and Natsuki Tanii. Colin, who also won last year in a spectacular show, got four straight Tops and Natsuki did win also in Bouldering in Moscow. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Natsuki Tanii JPN - Colin Duffy USA
2. Nika Potapova UKR - Thomas Podolan AUT
3. YueTong ZHang CHN - Kentaro Maeda JPN
Complete results

 
 
Lukan and Narasaki Junior winners in Moscow  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMeichi Narasaki took his second gold in Moscow in another great show where he skipped the second last hold and made a huge dyno to the last hold. Vita Lukan, bronze in boulder, won among the female with a nice and smooth style.

1. Vita Lukan SLO - Meichi Narasaki JPN
2. Nolwenn Arc FRA - Jakub Konecy CZE
3. Nina Arthaud FRA - Kai Harada JPN
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

The Juniors competed on the same route as the Youth A and interesting is that among the boys, the younger category had equal or better results among the Top-6 ranked.

 
 
Raboutou and Nishidi Youth A Champions  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBrooke Raboutou and Hidemasa Nishidi are the Youth A Lead World Champions. Hidemasa is the only one in Moscow who topped all four routes and he actually cruised the final route. Two weeks ago, the 15 year old was #11 in the Arco WC. Last year Brooke was #9 in a Lead WC and #10 in a Boulder WC.

1. Brooke Raboutou USA - Hidemasa Nishidi JPN
2. Futaba Ito JPN - Luka Potocar SLO
3. Sandra Lettner AUT - Katsura Konishi JPN
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Interesting is that Alberto Gines, who was #7 in the last WC in Arco, was #5 and Laura Rogora was #6. The level in this category is extremely high and anybody in the final seems to also be able to be Top-15 also in the World Cup.

 
 
8B and 8A+ by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Quintessential 8B in Rocklands. © Chad Greedy In total, she has now done 47 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is runner up in the female ranking game.

"Psyched! Also I did Steak House 8A+ the other day! Not a crazy hard boulder but way outta my style so I’m pretty psyched about it... Gonna try and continue my theme of classic boulders still unclimbed by women."

 
 
Jung interview on his trad 8c+++?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung started working on The Recovery Drink in 2012 together with Nico Favresse. Next year he was back when Nico did the FA and also in 2015 and 2017 he made long trips up to the remote Jössingfjord in Norway but no success. This year he was back and some holds broke, making it slightly harder. In the end he had to extend his trip with another four days, before taking down the possibly hardest trad route in the world. As Favresse, Daniel avoids giving a grade but what we know is that the German had to struggle at least as hard for when he did his two 9a+', La Rambla and Coruna.

Did you train specifically for doing the Recovery Drink?
After the first trip I did some stretching, I was struggling with one move, because I was too stiff. Also I set some volumes on a steep wall of our bouldering gym, Schlüsselstelle. I trained to rest in steep open handjams, that was really good to do. For my last trip, I just new that it is good to arrive with lots of power endurance. So I trained on long boulderproblems, mainly in the night, because it was too hot before 22:00. To train during the summer heat was a hard time.

What made this route so important so you did go back for three long dedicated trips?
The most important is to send my long time projecting in a beautiful place on a perfect wall. So the Jössingfjord fitted very well. Also, I was sure that I would be able to climb it. The process took a while, but why giving up when I feel close? Also I‘m very bad in giving up!

How does it compare also grade wise to the hardest sport routes you have done?
I really can’t compare the route, it’s an unique style, a totally different cup of tea compared to what I did before.

 
 
9a again by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his 17th 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco, which Adam Ondra put up this spring. " It would be a hard 9a if Adam wouldn't find this kneebar after the first section of the route, so it is "just" 9a." (c) Sara Grippo

In the Lead World Cup, the Italian is #2 after having won one event out of four. Currently he is training hard often in Innsbruck in order to prepare for the upcoming World Championship next month.

 
 
Two golds and bronzes for Japan in Youth B Bouldering  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan continues to dominate Bouldering in the Moscow Youth World Championship. In Youth B, they got two golds and two bronzes in great finals with almost perfect route setting were all boulders were done. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Rei Kawamata 44 - Natsuki Tanii 34 (6)
2. Thomas Podolan 34 (4) - Naile Meignan 34 (8)
3. Nukui Ryoei 34 (5) - Hana Kudo 24

Rei, who also won last year, did his first 8B+ this summer. He has no trainer and his training is just made of my working and repeating the high class boulders at his gym.

 
 
Honnold Free Solo Trailer  (2) Facebook
 

Alex Honnold sat a new standard in climbing by free solo the 30 pitches Freerider 7c (+) in Yosemite last year. In his scorecard, including 949 ascents, he commented, "Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a!"

The National Geographic documentary Free Solo is set to open on theaters September 28.

 
 
Avezou & Rogora winners in Youth A Bouldering  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of strange finals for Youth A in bouldering. A bit too easy for the boys and too hard for the girls. All three medalists among the male got almost identical results as they all did four tops in just five tries. The two best did take the four zones in five tries meanwhile the bronze guy needed five tries.

For the female, only two of the boulders were done and the winner, Laura Rogara flashed them both. (c) Eddie Fowke Complete results

1. Laura Rogora 23 - Sam Avezou 44 (5/4)
2. Lucka Rakovec 14 (4) - Eneko Carretero 44 (5/4)
3. Futaba Ito 14 (5) - Nathan Martin 44 /5/5)

Overall, Japan has been the best country in bouldering with one gold and two bronzes. The big sensation is that Austria has not had one finalists!

 
 
Slaney & Narasaki take first bouldering golds  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHanna Slaney, who never has stood on a IFSC podium before, won the first bouldering gold in Moscow after having been #12 in the qualification and #4 in the semi. Among the boys, Meichi Narasaki, who was second last year in both Lead and Boulder, arrived on top. It was a perfect start thrilling to end with perfect route setting by Jacky Godoffe and his crew. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 

Excellent start of the Youth World's in Moscow with great boulders on volumes and 02.30 PM GMT+3 (Euro 13.30) the junior finals in bouldering starts. Among the male, three Japaneses were ahead in the semifinal and for the female, there were two from Slovenia and one from Japan in the top.

In the Youth A category, with the finals on Sunday, two Japanese girls stood out and among the boys, Sam Avezou, who was #16 in Speed, was the only one with four tops in the semi.

 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
 
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
r!
 
Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
cin
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Sebastian Maya

El Techo del Puma, Ciud
ad Universitaria, Méxic
o
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
World Cup 2018: the climbing elite convene in Tirol  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe IFSC World Climbing Championships from 6th to 16th September 2018 in Innsbruck, is the biggest climbing event of the year. 700 athletes from 70 nations will battle for supremacy in the disciplines of lead climbing, bouldering, speed climbing and para climbing. The motto of the World Cup and its supporting programme is, ”Climb. Come Together. Celebrate”, featuring electro-pop star Fritz Kalkbrenner and a "Climbers Paradise Village" with competitions, concerts, lectures, films and shows. With 40,000 international spectators expected, tickets are in hot demand.

The Climbing World Championships will also be broadcast on TV. Climbing enjoys a long tradition in this country and is now a popular sport. In addition to countless climbing halls and alpine routes, the 5 Great Lines rated 6 and 7 are a special highlight. Based on their nature and challenges they present, a jury of experts defined them as “magnificent”.
 
Increase action, interest, drama and fairness in Boulder finals  Facebook
The male final in Munich started with a great flash by Gregor Vezonik. Then it took more than 28 minutes until any athlete could do one move from the starting holds!

Imagine this would have been the in Tokyo 2020. No action or excitement for 28 minutes. Millions of non-climbing viewers around the globe would have just left their screens and shaking their heads. The remaining might have thought it was pretty strange that Vezonik had secured the victory even if his five opponents had not even tried the last boulder.

One simple solution for more action can be to let the finalists start in two groups on the first two boulders. This will also create more fair conditions and mental pressure. Then we can let them go for the third boulder. Before the last boulder, there can be a 10 min break and then we let the Top-6 start in reversed order, which will guarantee action until the last climbers is out.

Main advantages of two starting groups in the final
1. More action and less dead moments.
2. More athletes will increase the interest around the globe.
3. More drama in the end of the competition.
4. Fairness due to more similar conditions (friction) and pressure.

Another advantage for such format change is that more athletes will get more training and enjoyment challenging the four final boulders. This would create great impact also on the national, local and youth level. One option to increase all these five factors and add a sixth one could be to let nine athletes rotate on the first three boulders. If so, the total time of a final would be reduced from around 96 minutes to 70 minutes.
 
8B Trav by Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 
Vezonik fairy tale with opposite approach to Kruder - Republished from May!  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureGregor Vezonik was on average #30 in the Boulder World Cups the last two years. In 2018, he started out by being #53. Later and suddenly, the Slovenian has being #3 two times this year. Normally his roomie is Jernej Kruder who leads the World Cup. Interesting they have totally different approach focusing on rock respective plastic. What they seem to share is very low focus on the results, instead it is about just making it to the next round so they can have fun on more spectacular boulders.

How have you been able to fight so long with not so very good results and how can you explain the recent success?
Travelling with some of the best friends. I had a dream and somewhere in the back I guess i believed it’s gonna happen. It’s also not so hard if you have the support of the people closest to you. Climbing just feels good. Trying hard or slopers, flying on crazy triple dynos or balancing in slabs is just good. Of course sometimes it feels better and it’s easier to enjoy good results but even when you don’t feel the best or don’t make the best result.. it’s just fun.

I think there isn’t a single explanation for this years success. I might be training just a bit more and doing loads of things just a bit better (like food, sleep, stretching...) but overall I think some things just need time. The most important is not giving up. I normally train six times a week, 3-4 hours per session. I have a specific training plan made with my coach Roman Krajnik and I don't really want to talk about it. It's mostly just a lot of climbing.
 
Total domination by Japan and Slovenia  Facebook
1. Jernej Kruder SLO 442 - Miho Nonaka JPN 500
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 400 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 495
3. Rei Sugimoto JPN 334 - Fanny Gibert FRA 320
4. Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 296 - Janja Garnbret SLO 260
5. Gregor Vezonik SLO 280 - Katja Kadic SLO 246
6. Kokoro Fujii JPN 260 - Stasa Gejo SRB 222
7. Jongwon Chon KOR 247 - Ekatarina Kipriianova RUS 210
8. Tomoaki Akata JPN 218 - Futaba Ito JPN 179

Ten male Japanese in Top-21 and eight female Japanese in Top-31. Overall national ranking:

1. Japan 2 269
2. Slovenia 1 344
3. France 823
4. Austria 735
5. Russia 591
 
Japan totally superior in Lead and Bouldering in Moscow  (4) Facebook
The medal table for Lead and Bouldering from the Youth World Championship in Moscow says it all;

Japan 5 - 1 - 6
Slovenia 1 - 3 - 1
France 1 - 2 - 2
USA 2 - 0 - 0
Complete medal table including Speed.

Also last year the Japanese juniors dominated and the big question is what they are doing differently? Based on what their senior coaches, who are almost as successful, as well as talking to some of the best youngsters, we know that Japan training sticks out with minimum structured and complementary physical training. Basically, their focus is mainly just challenging, with a great team spirit, boulders and routes in different gyms around Tokyo.

Structured and complimentary physical training is, beside yoga and stretching etc, almost non-existing. Instead, they focus on doing boulders in a group meaning they concentrate on technical and tactical training. Noteworthy is that this was the same success recipe that Adam Ondra used when he was a teenager.

It should be noted that runner-up when it comes to medals is Slovenia with just two million inhabitants. They are known for their structured training so obviously there are different possibilities for success.
 
8B+ (C) by Gabri Moroni  Facebook
Gabri Moroni, who was #18 in the Munich Boulder WC, has done Martin Keller's Highlander in Sustenpass giving it a personal 8B+ grade.
 
8A #19 for Oriane Bertone (13)  (2) Facebook
 
0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering  (2) Facebook
As you probably know, based on the change in the IFSC bouldering rule, it is possibly to present the results as points. Last year I was part of a Working Group in IFSC invited to a meeting in Munich where I suggested one bonus point for a flash as well as increase to two zones.

One reason for this is to make competitions more fair based on how good the athletes did climb. Two zones will also reduce the risk for going home empty handed with zero zones, aka 0 points as happened often for 10 % of the field like in Moscow YWC.

Another way, or in a combination, to make the comps more fair and understandable for the spectators could be to give 0.1 point for touching (or controlling) the final hold with one hand. Alternatively, you can define the second zone as controlling the top with one hand.

It is simply not fair that one climber who just reaches the zone gets as good score as, or possibly even better, compared to the one who climbs several moves longer and falls matching the final hold. It should be mentioned that such unfairness happens more often for the ones further down the list who do not make several tops.
 
Total Japanese domination in Bouldering  Facebook
In total, Japan did get three golds and four bronzes. The runner up is France with one medal in each color and a total of five finalists. The big sensation is that Austria has just have had one athlete in the final which can be compared with 12 for Japan.

In 2017, Japan got nine youngsters on the podium and a total of ten finalists. The country that has dropped the most in 2018, is USA who got two golds and another two medals in 2017. This year, they just did get two in 6th position.
 

Rumen Neshev
The Mask 7c, Rila Monastery

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