Alex Ventajas does No pain No gain (9a+)

Alex Ventajas has had some productive days in Rodellar sending No pain no gain (9a+) and Los Inconformistas (8c+/9a).

Can you tell us more about No pain No gain?
The line is a 40 meter roof in the most iconic sector “Ventanas”. I started trying it last year. The first part of the route consists of athletic moves were efficiency is key for reaching the crux in the middle. The crux is really powerful and requires much body tension and perfect execution to endure the rest of the route. The next three quickdraws drain your remaining strength and lead to a traverse section of 15 movements on small crimps. Finally, a 7c section where you should not fall leads to the chain.

The crux was rather hard to read and required a few attempts to get the beta right. Once I figured out the central boulder problem, I always managed to pass through it but kept falling in the final traverse. The two things I remember hardest trying this route were the slippery knee-pads due to the heat and the days spent resting to recover properly from every climbing session. Everything became harder when a foot broke and I had to readjust the beta in the traverse.

On the last day, we enjoyed the sunrise from the cave in Ventanas to give one last attempt. Unfortunately, I fell right before the jug from where it’s hard to fall [after that point]. Reluctant to leave the project, I left Rodellar knowing I would come back to complete it.

Finally last week I was again at the bottom of “No pain No gain” and I immediately felt in really good shape. After a few attempts, I was already clipping the chain!! Such an indescribable emotion!