Stefano Folgarait does Biologico (9a)

Stefano Folgarait, with ten 8c+’ and 9a’s under his belt, has done Biologico (9a) in Arco . (c) Oskar Toucha

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the pitch for the first time about four years ago. At first, I worked on it inconsistently and sporadically, about once every two months. However, in the past month, I started trying it with much more perseverance.

The route is divided into two sections. The first includes a boulder with a beautiful two-handed dyno graded 8a, very physical, followed by a knee bar. The second section consists of a 7c+ boulder problem, which suits me much better. Once past that, the route becomes more climbable. Completing this route was incredibly satisfying—a mix of happiness and gratitude, especially because I was able to share so many special moments with friends who made the experience even more memorable.

How come you have not sent any 8c+ or 9a for over 2.5 years?
In recent years, I have focused on other sports activities such as ski mountaineering, freediving, and trail running. I also had two minor injuries that slowed down my progress. Nevertheless, I have continued working on some projects, both near Arco and at my local crag in Potrich. In total, I have been projecting for some 40 days. Among them, there is a potential 9a+ that I am still working on. It’s a challenging project… I can’t wait to complete it!

Eloi Lorente García, 18, ticks Pozo verde power (9a)

Eloi Lorente García has has made the first repeat of Enrique Beltran Blasco’s Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. (c) Rebeca Cardenas

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route cost me 13 days of work and from the first days I felt very good on it but the bad conditions and humidity made the process very difficult for me. The route is super physical and very blocky. The first four moves are 8A block, then without rest you have to do another 7A+ block, then you have a medium rest and at the end a 7C block that is quite aleatory.

What is your climbing background?
My experience with climbing began when I was nine years old. Since I was little, I have always liked the mountains and from the first moment I was passionate about climbing. In 2022 when I was 16 years old I did my first 8b the next year, 2023 when I was 17 years old I did my first 8c and this year when I was 18 years I did my first 9a. Due to competitions I don’t have much time to go out on rock but I have always loved it. This season has been quite hard for me and being able to do this route has been something incredible.

What are your plans and ambitions in 2025?
In competitions, this year I would like to be able to reach more than one final in the absolute Spanish championships. My dream has always been to be part of the Spanish climbing team this year. I would like to try to enter and if that is not the case, I can continue getting closer and closer to my dreams.

For this year on rock I don’t have big goals in mind at the moment since the one I had in my sights was to do this 9a but I would like to be able to do 8a+ or 8b onsight. Another thing I have in mind that I would love to do this year is 8B block.

But above all, what I want most for this year is to continue enjoying the processes and the climbing.

Jakob Schubert is joined by DWS legend Chris Sharma as he makes the FA of Jelly Pain (8c+) in Mallorca. This route is possibly the sixth hardest DWS routes in the world after Sharma’s Top-5 hardest. What do you like about deep-water soloing? Does the danger add spice to the experience? I like the si…

Alex Garriga FA’s El Subnormal del Antihydral R2 (9a+/b)

Alex Garriga, who previously last year sent 6 routes 9a and beyond, finished 2024 by doing a 9a+ extension to his El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec

Kacper Heretyk does Martin Krpan (9a)

Kacper Heretyk, who did his first 9a in May, has sent Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč.

Can you tell us more about sending your second 9a?
It was truly a long battle; it took me several trips, but I have great memories of each one. I love this kind of climbing, where you not only face the challenges of the route but also challenge yourself. The longer I spend on a route, the more emotions I experience during the process of figuring out the moves.

It's a fantastic way to get to know yourself better. That’s exactly how it was this time—once I managed to send the key boulder problem in one go, I made it to the top.

As for the details of the ascent, I completed the route using kneepads. I don't think they affected the difficulty—it’s just that the hooks are very demanding and extremely suited to my style.

When it comes to the number of attempts, it's hard for me to say exactly, but I spent about 10 climbing days on the route (not counting attempts on easier routes that were part of the process).

Yu Okumura does Stoking the Fire (9b)

Yu Okumura reports on Instagram that he has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Previously he has sent, Fuck The system (9a), Chilam Balam (9b), Gancho Perfecto (9a) and Joe Mama (9a+). When it comes to boulders, last year he did La force tranquille (8C).