23 April 2024
Tanguy Merard puts up Hannigraal (9b)
Tanguy Merard, who three weekends ago sent three 9aโs, has carried on with more productive days in L'Abattoir making the FA of La cinquantaine รฉclatante (9a+), Brouncha (9a) and Hannigraal (9b). (c) Jocelyn Chavy
โI started trying La Cinquantaine รclatante because the route consisted of making an easier start of a 9b [project Hannigraal]. It was motivating because it gave me an intermediate objective. In terms of climbing and holds, I've never loved a route so much, I couldn't stop climbing it, I loved it. These routes didn't require any mental effort because climbing them was just a pleasure, and I didn't care if I did the route.
[Two days later] On my first try I sent the new route that I bolted with a friend, "Brouncha" 9a FA. The same day I tried the hardest project on the cliff that we were trying with Seb Berthe, which consists of doing a 9a and continuing into "La Cinquantaine รclatante", 9a+. So I launched into the route without any expectations just to see what it was like, telling myself that if I did the first part (9a) it would already be good. I was flying on the holds and I arrived at the first anchor so easily without feeling pumped, so after that I started to believe. I gave it my all for the final boulder , got back into the slab and managed to calm down before sending the final jump over the edge of the cliff. Everything was perfect, I clipped the anchor in shock and I was surprised, I had just completed my first 9b Hannigraal FA.
About the grade of "Hannigraal" which for me is much harder than all the 9a+ I did. I had a little doubt because I did it super quickly, but the route suits me very well. I also had a discussion with Nicolas Pelorson and Seb Berthe who tried the route, and they told me that they agreed with me.โ
โI started trying La Cinquantaine รclatante because the route consisted of making an easier start of a 9b [project Hannigraal]. It was motivating because it gave me an intermediate objective. In terms of climbing and holds, I've never loved a route so much, I couldn't stop climbing it, I loved it. These routes didn't require any mental effort because climbing them was just a pleasure, and I didn't care if I did the route.
[Two days later] On my first try I sent the new route that I bolted with a friend, "Brouncha" 9a FA. The same day I tried the hardest project on the cliff that we were trying with Seb Berthe, which consists of doing a 9a and continuing into "La Cinquantaine รclatante", 9a+. So I launched into the route without any expectations just to see what it was like, telling myself that if I did the first part (9a) it would already be good. I was flying on the holds and I arrived at the first anchor so easily without feeling pumped, so after that I started to believe. I gave it my all for the final boulder , got back into the slab and managed to calm down before sending the final jump over the edge of the cliff. Everything was perfect, I clipped the anchor in shock and I was surprised, I had just completed my first 9b Hannigraal FA.
About the grade of "Hannigraal" which for me is much harder than all the 9a+ I did. I had a little doubt because I did it super quickly, but the route suits me very well. I also had a discussion with Nicolas Pelorson and Seb Berthe who tried the route, and they told me that they agreed with me.โ
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