Buster Martin, who this spring sent two 9a+’, has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. Alex Megos did the FA in 2016 and two years later, Adam Ondra flashed the popular line. (c) William Barselo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route suited me well, but the biggest challenge was finding good conditions—it needs that sweet spot where it’s cold enough for the crimps but not so cold that you numb out. After falling a few times on the final move, I finally got a perfect weather window, and everything just came together.

This ascent was a reminder of how much patience and solid tactics matter when projecting. I’ve also been super inspired by friends and clients lately, which has brought a fresh energy to my climbing.

It’s been amazing to tick this iconic route, especially one that Adam Ondra famously flashed—it’s cool to share a connection with such a legendary climb. I’ve made more sacrifice in my life over the last year or so and it’s really paid off.

What kind of sacrifice are we talking about?
I’ve mostly been more focused on my climbing! I’ve done little other than train, project and climb this year. A lot of what it takes to climb hard sports routes is patience and putting the time in at the crag, waiting for conditions, finding partners, being away from home for long periods of time.

Jonathan Siegrist, with 83 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has repeated Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. ”Opening boulder and then crazy resistant style with nowhere to hide for like 30 moves straight! Very unique route and rock - awesome vision Gabri [Moroni].” (c) Fallon Rowe

What made you return to Europe and what are your winter plans?
Actually we never left 😆. Well that's not true I went to North America for 8 days in the middle of November for a team trip. Bascially after we left Ceuse we came to Italy - to Arco. I have always wanted to check this place out and I am so psyched I finally did! I've had a really hard time with the cold recently (I have very dry skin and I suffer to find good friction in the cold), but at a minimum it has been awesome to finally see a bunch of areas in Arco and I can't wait to come back next year. For now I badly need some mental and physical rest.. and some time at home / training time as I have been traveling since June.

This winter I am so psyched to get some mental and physical rest. I have a few injuries I am recovering from that I need to address and I want to feel refreshed mentally to get after some goals in '25. I'll start the heavy training sometime in January and then I will be back in Europe in March.

What are the differencies doing 9a’s at 39 compared to at 25?
Haha. Yeah it is for sure different. I actually feel stronger and better than when I was 25, and like I can still improve! The big difference is that I need more rest now, and I have to be attentive to any issues that come up in my body to prevent injury. I also have more responsibility now so climbing is not always top priority. The important lesson I have finally learned over the last 2 years is that I need to have more frequent periods of intentional training and intentional rest throughout my year. Training is hard on the body but so easy on the mind and so predictable. Outside projects are a bit easier on the body but can be very hard emotionally and painfully unpredictable with weather, etc. It's all a balance! I have big ambitions still in my climbing and if I want to continue to improve, I really have to pay attention and be open to learning and adaptation.

Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has sent Alphane (9A) in Chironico. This was the fifth repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s FA after Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, Simon Lorenzi and Jakob Schubert. This ascent marks the culmination of another impressive year of high-level achievements for the American. Just during the last six weeks, Bailey made the FA of Shaolin (9A) and repeated Ryuichi Murai's Floatin' (8C+).

The 28-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years. In 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WCs as well as sending Bibliographie (9b+). He stopped competing last year after narrowly not making it to Paris.

Jun Shibanuma has, in the same session, sent Amaterasu (8C), Phenomena (8B+) and Dakine (8B+) in Hinokage. Previously in 2024, Jun has done five 8C's and interestingly, the 34-year-old Japanese did not start climbing until he joined the University.

Can you tell us more about that amazing day?
AMATERASU is located in Mt.Hiei which is one of the most beautiful Boulder in Japan, maybe in the world, too. It has 14 move from start to the lip in my beta. The middle section is so crimpy and last section is powerful and technical with pinch and heel hook. Besides the rock is granite so crimp is so sharp. It’s really hard to link it, I fell many times at last crux.

The condition was perfect in the day (little bit cold). I warmed up a lot than usual. My body moved well and I could hold the last crux stably. But my finger grew numb with cold, I was about to fall to catch the lip. That was hard struggle.

Fortunately I sent it first go, so I decided to move other projects soon. I already solved sequence of “DAKINE” and “Phenomena “. DAKINE is also needed technically hook and physical strength, it was also hard for me. On the other hand, phenomena is my favorite style, the crux hold is a pinch. I had enough confidence to send it.

It was a amazing day, I had a lot of luck and my friends inspired me a lot.

How many sessions were needed for Amaterasu?
It took 3 years and I stopped to count sessions because sometimes I tried only 2-3hours before work or too bad conditions.

What are your winter plans?
Not decided yet 💦 Amaterasu was my goal of this winter. But there are a lot of good boulders around the Hiei and Hinokage. I will try them. And end of winter, I want to check Floatin (8C+).

Alex Johnson, with 22 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ under her belt, has completed Columbian Bowtie (8A+) in Castle Rocks (ID). ”So good, haven’t had this much fun on a boulder in forever. biggg kitty tracks, dead truck key close call, and lucky slice pizza.” (c) Sera Gerhart

Can you elaborate a bit more on that epic comment?
This climb is so fun! I went with Sera Gearhart, and on the hike down we saw fresh mountain lion tracks which is always scary. When we got back to the parking, my electric truck key battery had died so my truck wouldn’t start and we thought we were stranded hours from the nearest city with no phone service! I took the key apart and put it back together multiple times and one time we got lucky and it worked. My truck turned on! I think we were more excited about that than the send. We celebrated by getting Lucky Slice Pizza. 🍕🍕