Eloi Lorente García, 18, ticks Pozo verde power (9a)

Eloi Lorente García has has made the first repeat of Enrique Beltran Blasco’s Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. (c) Rebeca Cardenas

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route cost me 13 days of work and from the first days I felt very good on it but the bad conditions and humidity made the process very difficult for me. The route is super physical and very blocky. The first four moves are 8A block, then without rest you have to do another 7A+ block, then you have a medium rest and at the end a 7C block that is quite aleatory.

What is your climbing background?
My experience with climbing began when I was nine years old. Since I was little, I have always liked the mountains and from the first moment I was passionate about climbing. In 2022 when I was 16 years old I did my first 8b the next year, 2023 when I was 17 years old I did my first 8c and this year when I was 18 years I did my first 9a. Due to competitions I don’t have much time to go out on rock but I have always loved it. This season has been quite hard for me and being able to do this route has been something incredible.

What are your plans and ambitions in 2025?
In competitions, this year I would like to be able to reach more than one final in the absolute Spanish championships. My dream has always been to be part of the Spanish climbing team this year. I would like to try to enter and if that is not the case, I can continue getting closer and closer to my dreams.

For this year on rock I don’t have big goals in mind at the moment since the one I had in my sights was to do this 9a but I would like to be able to do 8a+ or 8b onsight. Another thing I have in mind that I would love to do this year is 8B block.

But above all, what I want most for this year is to continue enjoying the processes and the climbing.

Alex Garriga FA’s El Subnormal del Antihydral R2 (9a+/b)

Alex Garriga, who last year sent 6 routes 9a and beyond, starts 2025 by doing a 9a+ extension to his El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec

Jakob Schubert is joined by DWS legend Chris Sharma as he makes the FA of Jelly Pain (8c+) in Mallorca. This route is possibly the sixth hardest DWS routes in the world after Sharma’s Top-5 hardest. What do you like about deep-water soloing? Does the danger add spice to the experience? I like the si…

Kacper Heretyk does Martin Krpan (9a)

Kacper Heretyk, who did his first 9a in May, has sent Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč.

Can you tell us more about sending your second 9a?
It was truly a long battle; it took me several trips, but I have great memories of each one. I love this kind of climbing, where you not only face the challenges of the route but also challenge yourself. The longer I spend on a route, the more emotions I experience during the process of figuring out the moves.

It's a fantastic way to get to know yourself better. That’s exactly how it was this time—once I managed to send the key boulder problem in one go, I made it to the top.

As for the details of the ascent, I completed the route using kneepads. I don't think they affected the difficulty—it’s just that the hooks are very demanding and extremely suited to my style.

When it comes to the number of attempts, it's hard for me to say exactly, but I spent about 10 climbing days on the route (not counting attempts on easier routes that were part of the process).

Yu Okumura does Stoking the Fire (9b)

Yu Okumura reports on Instagram that he has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Previously he has sent, Fuck The system (9a), Chilam Balam (9b), Gancho Perfecto (9a) and Joe Mama (9a+). When it comes to boulders, last year he did La force tranquille (8C).

Vojta Trojan completes Mr Big (9a)

Vojta Trojan, with twelve 9a and beyond climbs under his belt, has ticked Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef. ”So good! Thanks Tom for such an experience. About the grade I would say rather soft, but it’s my style so I have no idea honestly. And honestly I don’t care so much.. this climb is just amazing.” (c) Vojta Ruta

Can you tell us more about the trip and the send of Mr. Big?
I’m so syked to be back here in Margalef. I almost forgot how much I like the climbing here! We’re very lucky with weather our whole stay here - climbing in decent conditions in the sun in Espadelles sector. Sometimes it’s too warm, but it gives you the vacation vibes which is not too bad!

I tried Mr. Big like a side project and got very close to send it very fast, falling on the very last hard move just 3 moves below the anchor. That try I opened a split and had to wait a bit to heal it. In the end I sent the route with a tape, which is maybe the first one for me :D