Tereza Širůčková, who two weeks ago did the 145 moves La Rubia (8c+) , has logged her first boulder, Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione.

Can you tell us more about sending your first hard boulder?
For me, this trip to Brione was my first bouldering trip ever. Until now, I had occasionally gone to my local crags, but those were mostly one-day trips where I just climbed whatever others were climbing. Maybe it’s because I mostly climb on a rope, so I get really scared on outdoor boulders. It’s still pretty unfamiliar for me.

On the first day we arrived, I realized it was going to be really cold for me. I was afraid I wouldn’t even be able to climb. I thought, “Maybe bouldering isn’t for me; I’m cold, and I’m scared.” But the next day was a bit better, and for the first time, I had a boulder problem I really wanted to try: Forever More Sit. I got a recommendation for it from Jana Švecová, so I knew height wouldn’t limit me too much. That day, I managed to figure out all the moves, so I had a feeling it might work. And on the next climbing day, after a rest day, I sent it! So now I guess I’m officially a boulderer. 😆

Gergő Vályi is three weeks into his one-month trip to the Lleida region, where he has climbed two 9a routes in Santa Linya.

Can you tell us more about the two ascents?
Fabela pa la enmienda (9a): I didn't expect to send it in only two days. It was really cool to come back to Santa Linya after a short Margalef trip (where 8a-s are harder for me than a 9a here). The 45 meters long route was 130 moves with my beta, and I spent 70 minutes on the wall. So big thanks @gypanni for the belaying.

At the send go, "La Fabela" 8c+ felt easy, and my arms were fresh at the good rest, so I hoped for the best. From here there is a 20 meters long 8b left, where the most of the holds good, you are at a really steep overhang, and there are some cruxes between the good rests. I almost fell from the middle part, and was so pumped when I got the last rest. Then I felt fresh again, but was afraid, that the pump will come back after 3 moves, but it doesn't happen, so I was able to go trough the last crux easily right before the chain.

Seleccio Natural (9a): It was about 7-8 tries. I knew the upper part from last year, from Digital Extension. Now I only fell before the crux, and from the really last move, as the Digital Ext. last year. It was really fustrating, mostly because of the weather. The sun wasn't really shining, because of the fog, and the temperatur was about 5 C°. Today, not just the weather, but everything was against me. The little pinch and the right hand pocket was super wet, even though I dried them up before the cilmb. And something happend with my skin on my right ring finger, so after the rest I was just slipping on my own blood. Personally a hard 9a in these conditions.

What is next?
I would like to climb some 8a-8c during the last week and maybe check the moves something harder for the next trip.

Siara Fabbri, with two 8B+’ under her belt, has done La Proue (8B) in Cresciano “ Such a beautiful block! Very happy to do it. Sunny cold day with wind, ideal send conditions and vibes!! For the bros writing '1 pad for the start', you are forgetting the rest of that statement which is your height 🤭.” (c) Alisha Wetherill

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your stand start?
I'm super happy to tick this one off!! It's an amazing climb with just the essential holds, that put you out of balance with bad feet.

I struggled a few sessions with the 2nd move (the cross move), then one session with some warmer temps I checked the holds carefully (I changed how I took the left crimp slightly) and did it first try easily. It was such a good feeling! Soon after with good conditions, vibes and try-hard and I could send.

There is a bit of controversy around this boulder because the first move is very difficult and can be influenced by your height + the number of pads you stand on. Historically in logbooks and occasionally people directly imply using only one pad is allowed, but none mention their height (often they are tall males) so of course this doesn't make sense. I think if you state the number of pads you use, at least state your height. As for the allowable number of pads it is height/landing-dependent, maybe determining that through experimentantion such that the move is still difficult. But let's just all be nice about it and aware of changing landings and different sized people.

When I sent I used 2 pads, I'm 162 cm tall, 167 ape.

Elias Iagnemma, who last year sent Burden of Dreams (9A), reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of The Big Slamm (9A). "It is incredible how it is a precise climb where every part of the body, shoe and flap of skin must deform perfectly in those minimal sandstone holds." (c) Stefania Colomba

There are now a dozen boulders graded 9A, out of which five have been done during the last year. The first 9A was Burden of Dreams which was put up by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016. Ir was first repeated in 2023 by Will Bosi and later also Simon Lorenzi and Elias Iagnemma.

Nicolai Užnik, who just needed max 1.5 sessions for his latest three 8C’s, has on his second go done Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. “Very close on the flash, did it second go… soft for the grade but one of the best for sure.”

Can you tell us more about the flash attempt?
I of course wanted to flash it but unfortunately I didn‘t get the first crimp right and it kinda hurt my finger so for the next move I wasn‘t in a good position. When I did it right after it felt really solid though so it‘s a bit of a shame… 😅

Any more specific thoughts about the grade?
Hm, I think I’m pretty good on this sort of boulder as it suits my style well, but I would still say it‘s rather soft for 8C. Even though again if it hadn‘t worked out super well straight away it might have felt different.

What is your project status on Alphane?
For Alphane (9A), it‘s going pretty well. I started to do send go‘s, but unfortunately the last couple of days it felt much worse and the middle / crux sequence felt almost impossible as it was somehow super greasy. I’m taking a little break now as I’m very psyched on some other things as well and I want to return back to alphane with more motivation and better conditions again!

I am just trying to stay patient and at the same time also do other cool boulders that I enjoy more, since alphane for me is not the most fun thing to try or at least not my favorite style. So it‘s also important to have that balance I think.