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8A by Max Bertone (10) in Rocklands  (3) Facebook
 

Max Bertone has for the third year in a row done an 8A, Dirty Epic in Rocklands. If he wants to stay on par with his two year old sister Oriane, he needs to do an 8B within a year. Bare in mind that boulders normally avoid the 30+ temperature in Rocklands during the summer, meaning they can only climb very early and very late during the day. In between, the children have schooling. Do not miss the great video!

 
 
Old dog (49) tries to do 8b+ with new tricks  Facebook
 

 
 
Canada Youth World Champions - Cancelled  Facebook
 

IFSC has sent out info to the federations that the Youth World Champion in Canada has been cancelled. Officially, IFSC have not reported it but they hope to use the same dates 7 - 19 August in another location.

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Kintana Iltis (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKintana Iltis has done Dirty Epic 8A and Tea With Elmarie 8A (+) in Rocklands. Her father gives us the story and says that the big goal is the Youth World Championship in Canada.

"Kintana begin to climb in Reunion Island (fr) when she was 9 years old. At first time it was a choice imposed by the shark crisis in Réunion because Kintana prefer to surf and was detected for competition. Now she's 14 years old, very happy to climb in natural crags, routes and boulders and gifted for competition. She like sports challenges.

We started climbing family trips in India at Hampi when Kintana was 10 years old. Since then, we are finding places for climbing in our holidays. South Africa is not far from Réunion Island, so it's a good place for us to go with friends to search goods news experiences in routes or boulders."

 
 
Another 8B+ FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Get better endurance by resting in the top jug  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

 
 
Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

 
 
Which is the best crash pad - 2018?  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

 
 
8C FA by Tamás Zupán  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star Wars film comes."

It was an old project close to the village where I live. It is a big roof. It is hard to climbing here because it is often wet. I tried for three years. I climbed a stand start version (the force awakens 8A+) last year. After I did a lot of training with weight vest on a big overhang. And now i managed to do it, so I'm very happy.

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Tomas Ravanal  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Ravanal has after some 25 sessions done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, video. In July 2016 he left Chile and has since been living in a van and also doing WCs with #14 as his best result.

"I have been climbing in Siurana for quite a long time, and after a did Estado Critico 9a, I only think of lL Rambla. I think the route suit me very good and I was working during two months . I did not climb every day and every session in La Rambla. I always tried to not give it so much importance until I realized it would be possible to climb it for me.

The last month I have been doing redpoint tries. For me it was a dream when i started climbing in 2005 with the video of Dani Andrada. Now I am 33 years old and I achieved one more dream and feeling like I am learning a whole new stile of climbing.

 
 
9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

 
 
9a FA by Harry Edwards (17)  Facebook
 

R & I reports about Harry Edwards having done the FA of Frequency 9a in at East Clear Creek. The first time Harry made 8a news was when he was 12 years old when he did several 8b+ and 8c. Later he stopped climbing completely for almost two years focusing on group singing/dancing performances.

 
 
8A again for Oriane Bertone (12)  (3) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done her 16th 8A, Nutsa in Rocklands where she also flashed Tea Garden Roof 7C. The 12 year old did her first 8A when she was 9 years old and last year she did her first two 8B's.

In order to escape the summer heat in Rocklands they boulder until 08.30 and after 19.00. This morning at 10 am 35 degrees reaching up to 45 during the day. The latest news is that she is super close to send Golden shadow 8B+! Videos are coming up.

 
 
9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

 
 
Shauna Coxsey Boulder WC winner 2017  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Loic Zehani (16) in Orgon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLoic Zehani, who previously has done eight 9a's, has done Fast and Furious which is a link up of an 8b start into an 8c+ in Orgon.

"It is a very resistant way (47 movements) with some hard clips. Very homogeneous and all the time very physical. The "Playmobils sector" is not the most beautiful place for climb in the world but there are some very nice hard ways to climb and also, to be honest, chipped holds."

 
 
Jonwong Chon 2017 highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
8c and more by Jessica Pilz and Hannah Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Hannah Schubert have spent some great days in Santa Linya where they both did Fabelita and several 8b's. (c) of Hannah by Andreas Aufschnaiter

Last year, Jessica (21) was #4 and Hannah (20) #10 in the Lead World Cup. Previously they are both double Lead Youth World Champions and they will both try to go to the Olympics and the same goes for Hannah's big brother Jakob.

 
 
Third 9b by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the very best competition climbers the last eight years, reports on Instagram that he has done Stoking the Fire 9b in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

 
Gianluca Bosetti

Ora che ho perso la vis
ta, ci vedo di più! 8a+
, Manghen
 
Mike Gabl

Samanta in "sweet dream
s are made of this" 6c
- San Vito Lo Capo
 
Jose Manuel Cano

Fugazzi 8a, Sant Lloren
ç del Munt
 
Carlo crespi

If you are travelling i
n Milan (Italy), you ar
e welcome to stay in my
house, search for clim
bing house on AIRb&b
 
Bernhard Schwaiger

BURNOUT, Hohe Tauern
 
Duygu Haug

Debut les Morts, Galati
ani, Kalymnos
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
Dubard Loïc

CDF 2016 qualifications
 
Leo Skinner

louis right hand 7c+/v1
0, south wales
 
Furkan Akkaya

Olympos Games 8b, Geyik
Bayiri
 
Philipp Gaßner

Pain makes me stronger,
every day! 8c+, Franke
njura
 
Daisuke Ichimiya

gekko 8b, hiei
 
Jivko Terziiski

Mutant 8a, Bojenica
 
Marcin Walasek

Sabotaj 7b+, Geyik Bayi
ri
 
Amanda Berezowski (f)

Slow dance 7c+, Bishop
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner on the youn
gest ascent of Butch Ca
ssidy 8A at dinas rock
 
Miguel Espejo

Líneas Cruzadas 7c, La
Piedra
 
Martin Feistl

Crux of Agrimony 7c, Ro
ttachberg
 
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Sebastian Maya - El Techo del Puma, Ciudad Universitaria, México
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Where to stand and How to belay?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureIn theory, you should spot your partner before the first clip is done and we can sometimes see this done by very experienced World Cup belayers. In practice, the dilemma is that you end up like 1.5 m from the wall meaning that if he/she falls directly after the clip he/she will land on top of you as you are taking in the slack.

Sure there are cases when a good spot is needed and you should pay attention or use another friend, as often the case in World Cups, but normally the first moves are super easy. Another option is of course to pre-clip the first quick draw. Once it is clipped in, you should try to stay close to the wall on the side of the climber and you should remain there until the first two-three drawers are clipped in.

Later you can step out half a meter for every clip until you stay 3 - 5 meters from the wall, especially when there are rope drag in the system. Once the person falls you should move inwards in order to make the fall more dynamic. If it is impossible to step out from the wall, you could try to jump up a bit if your partner falls high up in a rope drag situation.

The problem is that your instinct will most probably make you sit down instead of jump up during the fall. The simple solution for this is to bend your legs in a critical situation which makes it impossible to sit down and increase the impact of the fall.

It most be underlined that, even if the sliding in and jumping up sounds logical and easy, it is very difficult. In order to be a good belayer you need to practice a lot and the best place is of course indoors. You should also try to belay climbers that are both lighter and heavier than yourself including working with different rope drag.

The light belayer should almost never stay a long way from the wall and does not need to bend the legs. The risk is instead to get caught into the first quick draw. On the other side, the relatively heavy climber can move a longer away from the wall or bend the legs in order to avoid high impact falls.

It takes several years and hundreds of falls to become an experienced climber and there are many special cases especially in trad climbing like feeding out extra slack or even run or jump down. The above advice are general and should be tried out in practice in order to make you and your partner feel safe both climbing as well as belaying.

Please also note that most would think that the WC belayer stand too fare from the wall but the reason for this is that he can move forward in order to give out slack during the clip, i.e. only for the expertise.
 
Tarragona Climbs - New edition with App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTarragona in Catalonia, Northeast Spain, is one of those destinations a climber must know. Whether world class climber or ambitious amateur, sooner or later you should pick a project and go for it. Right on time for high season in the area, the new edition of „Tarragona Climbs“ with more than 3800 routes is now available.

Especially the content on the world-class zones such as Siurana, Montsant and Margalef has been considerably expanded compared to the previous edition. The guidebook is written by Pete O’Donovan in collaboration with Dani Andrada, who opened hundreds of routes in the area. For the first time, this guidebook is also available in the Vertical-Life App. The combination of printed book and digital content, that can be unlocked through a code inside the book, is available exclusively on orders via the Vertical-Life online shop.
 
How should Schubert's flash be reported?  (31) Facebook
Jakob Schubert's flash of Catalan Witness the Fitness got reported as 8B+ (C) by us, as all five repeaters who had done it before had called it 8C, Chris Sharma 8B+/8C but Jakob gave it low end 8B+.

Is it not strange that the other two big Euro websites did chose to report it as either 8B+ or 8C in both the headline as well as in the article. The media needs some kind of guidelines so we will stop misleading our readers. How do you think Schubert's flash should be reported.
 
Climb Fast then Stop - Repeat  Facebook
Eric Hörst has made some interesting analysis of Margo Hayes ascent of Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. From the video, it can be seen that she climbs the 30 m route in five intervals, around one minute of fast climbing followed by a rest in between one to three minutes.

This goes in line with old previous training articles here on 8a and also how Adam Ondra climbs. In practice, this means that you are going for an indoor onsight, you should try to climb very fast and then do full stop and rest every six meters or 45 seconds as you are probably not as fit as Hayes and Ondra.

In the video we can also see that Margo finishes off every session by first clipping and the start to rest. In theory, she could have saved some energy by actually first rest and midways in her resting, clipped the quick draw. This would have means shorter intervals with intense climbing and more time spent in a resting mode.
 
France Combined Nationals  Facebook
 
Social media vs Mental training  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureInstagram is a great communication tool but it can also create pressure that can be hard to handle. It might be wise for especially youngsters to not report/show of with good training and keep saying, on a daily basis, that everything is so good in order to get many likes, as this could build up anxiety. Sooner or later there is a competition coming up and what you have been saying on social media might feel like pressure.

On the other hand, if you are a very experienced and successful climber who will not loose your sponsors just because you fail once or twice, you can do as Jorg Verhoeven. Use social media to put pressure on yourself so you have to commit 100 %.

Some months ago, the World Cup winner 2008 who is a high class climber in all disciplines from bouldering to big-walls, declared that his goal is to do an 9b. If you do not have such a broad climbing background as Jorg, you better avoid such Instagram posts but I am sure it works for Jorg :)

"The idea is to come back in Febuary, and send in March (or even April) when conditions are prime. That means not a whole lot of training time left, but it for sure is possible. I feel like power endurance (20-40 moves) needs to increase, but also pure power (so that I'll need lees endurance). I put the odds at 75:25!"
 
Ondra is superior 9a and harder  (8) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThis diagram tries to show how superior Adam Ondra is when it comes to 9a and harder. We have given points for 9a to 9c based on a multiple of three which actually almost perfectly fits Ondra's grade pyramid. As grades are subjective and sometimes get down graded the scoring is somewhat speculative. On the other hand, Ondra is known to be the one using most frequent personal. Source is the 8a data base and escalade9.

It should be mentioned that if we were to make such a diagram for onsighting 8b and harder, Ondra would have been way more superior followed by Megos. At the same time as Ondra has onsighted 21 routes 8c+ and harder, the runner ups have at most onsighted four.
 
Durif explores Serbia  Facebook
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2018?  Facebook
For the 15th year in a row...

 
Zlagboard PRO chosen by EpicTV  Facebook
 


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