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Nordic Plumber 8c by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Nordic Plumber 8a in Flatanger and her story is really great. (c) Esteban Lahoz

The plan was to go bouldering for two weeks around Trondheim with her partner David Mason. Once realizing Flatanger was so close, she wanted to check it out and do some easier less steep routes but Maria Sandbu inspired her by doing Nordic Flower 8b+. In short, with rainy days that made David do his first sport route ever, Mina was full on the 50 meter super steep Nordic Plumber but no success. After returning back home for a wedding, another ten days Flatanger trip was booked and she sent it on her second last day. Video of the finishing rail.

 
 
Gancho perfecto 9a by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his 16th 9a, Gancho perfecto in Margalef. In the 8a ranking game, the Pole is #2 after Adam Ondra also including four 9a+' just the last five months. (c) Lena Drapella

"Wow I’ve been dreaming about this route since I saw the „Progression” movie for the first time. Came very close in my 5th try, then fall another few times in the very last moves to finally send it with ease."

 
 
Sever the Wicked Hand, second 9a by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done his second 9a, Sever the Wicked Hand in Frankenjura. "Three sessions, rather low end 9a imo, but so beautiful! 8A boulder problem into 15m of hard endurance climbing with only one bad rest."

In total the 17 year old has done 235 routes 8a+ and harder and 44 boulders 8A and harder. In the 8a Combined ranking game the young German is #3 after Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods. (c) Manuel Welt

 
 
Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger by Josh Cornah  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJosh Cornah has done the 60 meter Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger. (c) Henning Wang who the day after did Nordic Plumber 8c.

"It took about two months of effort. A lot of mental effort, especially for the the top half which I punted off of two times. Once from the very top. Eventually I found a key bit of beta in the last week of my trip, which helped a lot. Also the bottom seeps a lot, varying day to day. It never dried completely but some days it was un-climbable for me.

Then conditions cleared up and I got through the bottom twice, once I was so nervous and climbed terribly, punting off the last move. Then I got my shit together and next day on I enjoyed the climbing a lot more and sent. After not having much motivation before leaving NZ it was kind of what I needed to get my shit together and my mental game."

 
 
Rich Marcus 8c by Matilda Söderlund in Sweden  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund has had a great day in Niemisel in the northern part of Sweden when she did one 8b+ and Rich Marcus 8c. (c) Tor Johnsson

"The best place I’ve climbed at in Sweden. 28 m of superb granite, the routes are super high quality - just amazing! It is truly a little gem and the community of climbers up there is fantastic. The style suits me very well, slightly overhanging and quite a lot of small holds."

In 2012, Matilda was #6 in the World Championship as well as onsighted three 8b's. Later she focused on taking a Master in Business Administration. Since two years she is a full time climber again. Next is a DWS competition in Mallorca and possibly Red River Gorge in October. Follow her on Insta.

 
 
New Base Line, second 8B+ by Mile Heyden  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMile Heyden has done her second 8B+, New Base Line in Magic Wood. (c) Matti Stanik

"Falling 3 times at the final jug of this incredibly breathtaking line was one of the most frustrating thing I've ever experienced in bouldering but persistence paid off :)

Topping it out with some wet holds was a combination of felicity and heart attack! This line is really one of the most beautiful lines and I'm just super happy, thankful and satisfied to finish this one! More comments and pictures on her Insta.

 
 
Schubert winner of a great Combined World Championship  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe male Combined final begun with the big favorite in Speed, Tomoa Narasaki making a false start in the very first race against Jakob Schubert. In the end, Jan Hojer took a controlled victory of Jakob Scubert.

Bouldering got a spectacular start when Narasaki skipped the first zone and instead made a huge diagonal dyno. Later also Schubert and Ondra skipped holds but the record was set by Hojer skipping three holds on Boulder three. Unfortunately everyone flashed the last boulder but apart from that the difficulty level was OK.

Starting last out in Lead was Schubert and once he passed Hojer's score he had secured the gold and the commentators were looking for a Hollywood ending with the Innsbruk son becoming the first to top out. Instead Ondra got his revenge winning by five moves over the Austrain securing his Combined silver.

Overall it was an over three hours packed intense show which the athletes seemed to like. Happy faces all over with the athletes cooperating as usual in every discipline. The race for the Olympic medals that will be handed out in 23 months. (c) Vladek Zumr

 
 
Janja Garnbret Combined World Champion  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret started with being #5 in Speed where we saw two false starts, resulting in Petra Klingler being #3, after just having climbed one route. Sol Sa, who did not do the boulder final giving her more rest and better skin, was #2.

In Bouldering, Janja was superior doing all four again dynamic coordination boulders. Sol had her hand on two tops but fell to the ground. With 30 seconds left on the last boulder she was fifth in the ranking but with a spectacular she did it and advanced to runner-up.

In Lead, almost all girls were fighting with taped fingers and blood on their finger tips. Jessica Pilz topped and now the pressure was once again on Janja having to climb faster. As in Lead she stopped before the final move but she executed and was ranked #1.

Now the pressure was on Sol Sa, who had to beat Jessica's time to win overall but she fell low but anyhow ended #2 in the Combined after Janja but before Jessica. Complete results
(c) Vladek Zumr

 
 
Female Combined Final 11.00  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
Kai Harada excels in great spectacular show  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureKai Harada, who was #3 in the Youth World Championship last month, showed to the best both on the tricky slab as well as the powerful and technical cordination boulders. It was a touching moment when he fell on his knee after he flashed the last boulder and once he looked up on the cheering crowd, we could all see him crying and then covering and wiping his eyes with the T-shirt.

Runner-ups, and equally happy, was the crowd pleasers Jongwon Chon and Gregor Vezonik. It seems there are no rivalry among the best, instead they are all a big happy family and that includes also the coaches.

1. Kai Harada JPN 44 - Also qually Combined winner
2. Jongwon Chon KOR 34 9:10
3. Gregor Vezonik SLO 34 9:17
4. Keita Watabe JPN 24
5. Kokoro Fujii JPN 22
6. Nathan Philips GBR 12
Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

 
 
Male Boulder Final 19.00  Facebook
 

 
 
4 Tops by just the Top-6 in the semifinal but not Ondra, Kruder or Narasaki  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn contrast to the previous setting in the Boulder Championship, we did see many Tops but just the Top-6 topped all four boulders. Adam Ondra did only make two and was down at #17 place. The finalists are: Kokoro Fujii, Jongwon Chon, Gregor Vezonik, Kai Harada, Keita Watabe and Nathan Philips. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

It was super dramatic in the very end when Jernej Kruder could not get a top although getting one hand on the top. In fact, 15 out of 19 did it out of which first go. Nathan Philips is the big sensation and he more or less did all the three last boulders with just seconds left on the clock. Twice he actually crimped a screw hold to move upwards. He has been competing actively in the World Cup for four years and his best ever result is #16.

 
 
Male semifinal starts 13.00  (3) Facebook
 

 
 
Garnbret, Noguchi and Gejo the only ones getting tops  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAfter the two first boulder, Janja Garnbret had 11 points (one top and one zone) and Stasa Gejo had one point. All the rest had scored zero although Petra Klingler seemed to have done the crux on the second boulder but the zone was further up. On the third boulder Stasa, with tape on four finger tips, was lucky and skillful using the palm on the sideway crux doing a very impressive top. Then also Akiyo Noguchi started to move doing the last two boulders but as Janja also did the third, she had secured the world champion title before she begun her not so focused last tries. Unfortunately, Miho Nonaka's shoulder injury did get worse and it will be very hard for her doing the Combined final on Sunday.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 23 (Two Tops and three zones)
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 12
4. Jessica Pilz AUT 02 on 4 attempts
5. Miho Nonaka JPN 02 on 6 attempts
6. Petra Klingler SUI 00
Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Janja is now the first female that has won the World Championship in both Lead and Boulder. During the last 19 World Cups in both Lead and Boulder, her worst result is #3.

 
 
Semifinal analyses  Facebook
 

 
 
Nonaka just barely made it to the final  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Female Boulder Semifinal started with another standing on a banner sign situation but luckily it did not happen for any of the 19 to come. Instead, the semi will be remembered by the Japanese favorites saving their show on the last boulder.

Miho Nonaka had failed eight times to do the first move, (c) Vladek Zumr, and with 40 seconds left she asked for support from the crowd and then she executed and actually skipped the second last hold and did go double dyno to the Top. On the first boulder, Miho squeezed in a crucial zone on her fifteenth attempt. Akiyo Noguchi had also failed to do boulder #1 and put on her ice face and did the last boulder on her second go.

Noteworthy is that on boulder #3, we did only see one zone carried out by Alex Puccio. Further more, Miho Nonaka will start first in the final taking the advantages of lower pressure and fresher holds. Out of the last ten World Championships, 50 % of the golds have been taken by the #6 in the semi. Her biggest opponents is Janja Garnbret who won the semi by three flashes.

Stasa Gejo is currently #7 in Combined but if she takes the silver in the final, she will kick out Sol Sa from the Combined final. If Miho would have failed to do the last boulder she could have missed the Combined final. Complete results

 
 
Female Boulder Semi 13.00  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
Rudzinska and Alipourshena World Champions  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureExciting Speed finals where Rexa Alipourzena won ahead of Bassa Mawem who neck to neck did miss the last foot hold and came 10 cm short to the buzzer. Replay

Among the female Aleksandra Rudzinska won a Polish finale Anna Brozek. Other then that there were quite few false starts and also falls during the earlier rounds. Complete results
(c) Vladek Zumr

 
 
6.697 by Tomoa Narasaki in Speed and False starts!  (30) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomoa Narasaki has set a new very impressive record in Speed with 6.697. Runner-up among the non-speed specialists are Mickael Mawem 6.769, Jan Hojer 7.079 and Kokoro Fujii 7.283. Adam Ondra did 9.316 in his Speed debut. Complete results

Yoshiyuki Ogata and Jongwon Chon did a false start in race one meaning they are also disqualified from the second race as well as getting any good Combined result. Also the world record holder as well as the World Cup leader, Danyil Boldyrev did get one false start and is out. (c) Eddie Fowke

Jakob Schubert did a good race in the first race below 8 seconds but as he made a false start in his second race, he was also disqualified. Most probably he will still make it to the Combined final.

 
 
No live-streaming for Speed qualification  Facebook
 

Updated Speed results for the Speed qualifications starting at 10.00 for the female and 14.00 for the male. Para Climbing finals are live-streamed 12.30-16.15 and 18.00-20.00 followed by the Speed Finals 20.00-21.00

 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Geyikbayırı
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Delicate Japanese selection for Tokyo 2020  (1) Facebook
A total of 20 male and 20 female will participate in the Combined Sport Climbing in Tokyo 2020. 1 + 1 is guaranteed the Host Nation and 1 + 1 Tripartite Commission. There is also a maximum of 2 athletes per nation.

Qualification events are listed in hierarchical order
6 - Top ranked on the Combined World Champion in Tokyo 2019
1 - Overall World Cup Winner (OWC) 2019
6 - Qualifying event in Toulouse for Top-20 from OWC 2019
5 - Continental Championship 2020

In practice this means that the highest ranked male and female Japanese in the Combined World Champion in Tokyo will get the only qualification spot for Japan. Later the remaining team, can only hope to be the chosen one. There is no guarantee to qualify even if he/she win all events, after being second Japanese in the Combined World Champion.

If the, especially male, Japanese domination will continue it is likely that all non-Japanese Top-20 in the Combined World Cup will make it to Tokyo even if they are dead last in the Qualification event.

However, it might be that no athletes from Japan and another countries that did fill their quota in the WCH in Tokyo, will be allowed to compete in Toulouse. This means that it might be good enough to be Top-25 in the OWC in order to be allowed to do the qualifying event.

The result in the Combined World Cup is based on multiplication on your two best relative ranked result in all three disciplines. In other words, this means that there are almost no chance what so ever for the Speed specialists to make it happen. Further more, countries with high ranked Speed climbers can let they participate also in two Lead and one Boulder WC. Later based on the calculation result, they can decide to let that Speed specialist be included in the Combined relative ranking, if other athletes from their country benefit from it.
 
How many tops are ideal in a bouldering final?  (6) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the World Championship in Innsbruck we could see that the number of tops the six finalist completed did vary a lot. Further more, it seems like there is no guideline from IFSC to the route setters how many tops to opt for. The number of preferred tops in the climbing community seems to vary as some think five tops as in the female final is perfect, meanwhile other prefers how it was in the male final, i.e. 15 tops.

Here is a diagram showing the 10 - 14 tops are ideal and that it is better with 24 tops rather then 0 tops. How do you think the optimal curve, # of tops versus target achievement in %, in general, should look like?
 
Japan dominated as a team in Innsbruck  (16) Facebook
Austria got three golds and a bronze by Jakob Schubert and Jessica Pilz in the World Championship in Innsbruck. Slovenia did get two golds, one silver by Janja Garnbret and a bronze by Gregor Vezonik. However, as a team Japan was superior and their result is just a continuation of their positive trend for several years. In lead, the male Japanese did get their best result ever.

Japan Team Statistics
Bouldering: Male 4 Top-7 : Female 2 Top-5
Lead: Male 4 Top-13 : 2 Top-8
Combined: Male 4 Top-8 : Female 3 Top-7

In the male Combined, Japan was allowed to participate with seven athletes who all were Top-31. Among the female, all their three competitors were Top-8. Imagine the Combined results if Japan had been allowed to participate with ten male and female. It should be noted that in Tokyo every nation is just allowed to participate with 2 male and 2 female.

Noteworthy is also that in the Bouldering World male ranking, there are ten Japanese in the Top-21.
 
8 Combined finalists, more excitement and reduced time  Facebook
The Combined Finals in Innsbruck were a success although they lasted around 300 minutes out of which only 20 + 90 + 40 = 150 min was climbing action.

Here is a solution for reducing and evening out the disciplines' time and still increase to 8 competitors which is crucial attracting more broad casting nations.

Speed: 25 min instead of 20 min
False start count as fall and everyone does two qualification rounds which will avoid potential anti-climax due to falls and false starts. Unfairness if the ranked #1 in Speed will meet ranked #2 will be avoided. The fastest four go to semifinal.

Boulder: 60 min instead of 90 min
Rotating start of the first three boulders = 36 min. The Top-4 advances to final boulder with reversed starting order after a 10 min break. This will increase action time and minimize dead moments when the athletes rest as well as increase final boulder excitement.

Lead: 50 min instead of 40 min

Advantages
Reduced and even out time, 25 + 60 + 50 = 135 min, incl. extra 10 min break, instead of 150 in Innsbruck
More competitors/nations competing will increase global interest
No anti-climax risk and more fair in Speed
More action on first 3 boulders as well as excitement on final boulder

It should be noted that keeping 6 finalists, the time consumption in bouldering could be 40 min instead of the 90 min in Innsbruck.
 
Innsbruck was a success but improvements are possible  (21) Facebook
Overall, the World Champion in Innsbruck was a success for the organizer, the route setters and IFSC. On the other hand it is easy to see where simple improvements are possible.

1. False starts in Speed can possibly be reduced by taking out the illogical rule that you have to start 0.1 second after the buzzer. One way of almost solve the problem would be to give one second penalty for every 0.1 second false start.

2. Route setters should have guidelines saying 10 - 14 tops in the boulder final are ideal etc. Further more, there most be a limit of sideway coordination dynos etc.

3. There should be two zones forcing the route setters creating more than just two moves out which one is simple.

4. Reduce the number of not so good participants by saying you have to have been positioned Top-50 in a WC the last two years to attend.

5. Make sure there is count back possibilities based on all rounds especially in order to avoid ties in Lead finals.

6. Multiplication in Combined should be replaced with adding the results of the three disciplines.

The advanced solution is to increase to 8 finalists in both Boulder finals as well as in the Combined. This would make it possibly to start rotating on the first three boulders which will save time and create more excitement. Before the last round, only Top-6 will start in reversed order which also will increase the final excitement.
 
No visual false start by Narasaki and Noguchi  (11) Facebook
Tomoa Narasaki was the big favorite to win Speed but unfortunately he made a false start. The definition of a false start is that you are not allowed to put pressure on the electronics until 0.10 seconds after the buzzer. Visually, by playing the Youtube video in slow motion, we can see that Tomoa did not make a false start. Instead his movement started after the buzzer and he must have put pressure before 0.10 seconds.

The female race started with the same situation for Akiyo Noguchi and was later repeated by Miho Nonaka in the small final. In order to avoid such anti-climax the 0.10 seconds in delay should be removed. Further more, a penalty of one second for every 0.1 second could be added.
 
Male final analysis  Facebook
 
Female Combined Prediction starting 11.00  (1) Facebook
During the Combined Final on Sunday, the six finalists start with Speed followed by Boulder and Lead. As Janja Garnbret will win is quite obvious but then it just might be that Sol Sa from Korea will get the silver as she did not take part in the boulder final, getting a good rest and also time for the skin to recover. Here is the prediction. Note that, Miho is ranked last as she probably will have very hard to compete in at least Boulder, due to her shoulder injury. She was quite superior in Speed so probably she can still make a good result here.

1. Janja Garnbret 5 - 1 - 1 = 5
2. Sol Sa 2 - 3 - 4 = 24
3. Petra Klingler 1 - 5 - 5 = 25
4. Jessica Pilz 4 - 4 - 2 = 32
5. Akiyo Noguchi 6 - 2 - 3 = 36
6. Miho Nonaka 3 - 6 - 6 = 108
 
International Mountain Summit 2018: Meet the Climbing elite in Brixen - Dolomites  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFor the 10th edition, the International Mountain Summit (IMS) in Bressanone/South Tyrol gathers mountain lovers from all over the world. “Meet.Mountain.People.Soul” will be the central theme for this unique festival. In the 2018 edition the stage will be dedicated to a lot of fascinating people and their touching stories. Among the more than 15 speakers, we look forward to welcome the exceptional climbing talent Alex Megos, the world-famous mountaineer Stefan Glowacz or the two stars of the mountains, Tamara Lunger and Beat Kammerlander.

The tickets for the six evenings are more than popular. So, grab your friends together and get your tickets for the IMS Nights. It will be worth it and we will give you a warm Welcome at the IMS 2018 from the 8th to the 14th October 2018 in Brixen (I).
 
IFSC need to give route setters guidelines  (17) Facebook
The route setters job to find the right level is super difficult, especially for the female as there are no official IFSC female route setters. However, quite often in Bouldering, the problems are too hard meanwhile almost never too easy. In other words, in general the boulders should be easier and it is not a problem if several tops all boulders. On the contrary, this is in general more fun both for the spectators as well as for the climbers.

Further more, once they set parkour style starts, the route setters must make sure that they are not too hard.

It would be better for everyone if IFSC increased to two zones. This would mean that everyone would get some score and then you could make the cruxes gradually harder.

Imagine all the non-climbers watching the female boulder final on Eurosport. IFSC need to give the route setters guidelines so we can guarantee that the broad audience in Tokyo would not just leave the screen and the journalist writing critical reports.

I would opt for telling the route setters that in a final, you get the highest credit if 3 or 4 guys topping each individual boulder. This would probably mean the winner would do three or four tops. Possibly, the number of tries will be used to separate two climbers with four tops.

If we just see five tops and another six zones, the route setters should fail. With the same thinking, if we get more than 20 tops, they fail.
 


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