NEWS

Ondra and Hammelmรผller win EC in Prague
Adam Ondra won the European Boulder Cup in Prague after lots of drama where he, as the last climber, topped out the last problem. Runner-up was Edvards Gruzitis followed by Tim Reuser. Complete results (c) Petr Chodura and comments by Ondra.

"One of the best comps I have remembered for years. Climbing out last in front of the home crowd was just amazing. I definitely got excited and I got this hunger to compete again."

Among the female, Eva Hammelmรผller, who was #6 in the semi, was the only female to make two boulders in the final. Last year she was Top-22, four times out of five, in the Lead World Cup. The 21-year-old did her first 8c+/9a in 2021 and just three weeks ago she did an 8A+. Interestingly Eva is 167 cm but has an arm span of 180 cm. Sabina Van Essen got the silver and Lana Skusek got the bronze. Complete results and Full video.

Bayes Wilder did Lethal Design 8A+ in Red Rocks in March and here is the video. Here is the article from March where his father commented. "He did the problem probably with about an hour or slightly more of work. He worked out the moves on several different sections quickly but the first third of the problem gave him some difficulty. He tried several different ideas and eventually found a good sequence. He did one link from relatively low through to the easier section. Then he started trying from the bottom. On his first couple of attempts, he had things go wrong but learned subtle beta changes. Then he got through the lower crux and climbed the rest of the problem to the top."

In the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, pictures of the boulders were shown in the isolation and climbers including Alex Megos protested. Before the semifinal, Megos talked to the athletes and informed officials that they did not want any topo pictures in the isolation and the officials listened.

This weekend, there is a European Cup in Prague and there are no pics in the isolation. The chairman of the rules committee in IFSC has informed the athletes and the coaches that the new rule with pictures has been withdrawn.

Megos comments, - Cool! That's nice to hear. ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘Œ๐ŸผThanks for considering our opinion IFSC ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿผ

8c+ project from 1996 done by Alexis Guerin
Alexis Guerin has done the FA of Un dernier petit coup de Ju! (8c+) in Tilff, located 15 min from Liege in Belgium. "This project was bolted in 1996 by JC Vittoz and JL Putz and known as Suce-Pandus in the old guidebooks. The name Suces-Pandus is written at the bottom of the route over a big yellow painted stripe, so the route is easy to find. The route is a power endurance challenge of 22 moves. Once you passed the crux in the middle, you need to be very precise and every move you add can possibly make you fall. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as me."

How many sessions were needed?
Around 20 sessions, the time to understand the moves, clean the rock (some holds broke, in the beginning, the route was easier) and then put the tries. The end of the route is very sustained and it makes you feel as if the send was close. But every move you add after the crux can make you fall, so it took more time than expected.

Why do you think it has been a project for 26 years? Are the bolts OK?
Yes, the bolts are still ok as it was rebolted afterwards. The rock looks a bit brittle so it might also have discouraged some people to try but now that the route is cleaned the quality of the rock is good.

How many other routes are nearby?
Itโ€™s a small crag, next to my FA thereโ€™s a hard 8b, two 7c+ and a 7a+. Thereโ€™s a big slab 100 m from that crag where there is an 8a and a project. I've bolted a project in a cave nearby, but havenโ€™t tried it yet

Zipayorik ez! 8c/+ by Angie Scarth-Johnson (17)
Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 9a last year, has done Zipayorik ez! 8c/+ in Margalef. "It was an end of the day project that I had for the past week and today I finally finished it after trying it fresh. Now Iโ€™m back to trying Vรญctimas Pรฉrez 9a and hopefully before the season ends I can finish it!" (c) Adri Martinez

How is a normal climbing week for you?
I have been living in the van climbing around Margalef with Jorge Diaz-Rullo. We usually climb 2 days on and 1 day rest. The season has actually been pretty bad, the weather hasnโ€™t been great, but we still enjoy the time we have by climbing our projects in Finestra!

What are your summer and autumn plans?
Cรฉรผse in August where I would like to try my project Pornographie 9a and back to Australia in October.

This Australian has been a lifestyle globetrotter since age 9. Amazingly, her parents did not climb but supported her big interest by doing nine 1-3 month trips to Europe and the USA until she was 16.

Katie Lamb does her fourth 8B+, The Penrose Step (8B+) in Leavenworth (WA) in just two sessions. "Mini trip up to visit the fam - rained out for all but two days. Got it done in the eleventh hour w some try hard and stamina I didn't know I had. Incredible line and special moment with Keen and Andy."

The 24-year-old did her first, out of ten 8B's, less than two years ago and her first, out of four, 8B+ nine months ago. For almost one year, she has been the #1 in the female ranking game.

Katie Lamb has done The Abattoir (8A+) in Yosemite (CA). "Shouts to Keen for the last minute beta change to end the epic. Left hand to the lip then right to jug...nails snails! April 24 what a day."

In total, the 24-year-old has done 34 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is #1 in the ranking game like she has been for almost a year now. Interesting is that all her four 8B+', she has done during the last 12 months and the last one, she did in just two sessions.

Seta Ibรฉrica 9a+ by Jonathan Flor
Jonathan Flor reports on Insta that he has repeated Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Seta Ibรฉrica 9a+ in Cuenca. "While I'm still trying (Following the leader) my main project here, I was able to make one of the best combinations of this wall." (c) Japh Imagenes

The 25-year-old Spaniard has done over 60 routes 8c+/9a and harder, including three 9b's, and actually almost all of them since 2019.

Adam Ondra is the top global climber suggesting the most personal, i.e. honest grades. His amazing tick list would have been even more impressive if he had skipped the honesty part and just taken the topo grade. Adam onsighted the first two 9a graded routes in the world but downgraded them to 8c+. Last year he also downgraded the third, out of five 9a onsights that he has done, Cabane au Canada.

"Update 2021: seems the consensus is more 8c+. The long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in place. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it's definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in one of the most breathtaking sport climbing-wall(s) I have ever seen."