Vertical-Life
Rainman 9b by Josh Ibbertson (18) Updated!
"Rainman has inspired me ever since I watched Steve McClure working it many years ago. It looked impossibly hard to me then and was blown away when he redpointed it in 2017, creating the UK’s first 9B! The route takes a super direct line up the centre of Malham cove on an impeccable rock all the way. It starts up the mega classic Raindogs (8a) continuing through the crux roof of Rain Shadow (9a) before heading into the headwall of Batman (9a/+)/Bat route (8C).
I guess my road to climbing Rainman started when I was 11 and first climbed Raindogs. I returned to climb Rainshadow in 2020 and Bat route and Batman in 2021. It was only after climbing Batman that I really started believe I could link it all together. Having redpointed all the others, I haven’t a clue how many sessions I’ve actually spent on the route. Lots! Since March I spent as much time on the route as I could, trying to redpoint. I’m currently sitting my end of school exams so it’s been quite a challenge to manage my time. The route spat me off the final hard boulder, (where it joins Bat Route) numerous times. On my 18th birthday, I hit the hold at the end of the crux but didn’t stick it...I was hoping Rain Man was going to be a birthday present for myself, but it wasn’t to be! I had to wait another week and a few more sessions for the send. I’ve put so much effort into this route, so it feels unreal to have finally ticked it.
To prepare over the winter I worked closely with my Lattice Coach Ella, we put in lots of antagonistic training and general strength work so that I was robust enough to give it my all, while not getting injured. I think this really helped. We also did a lot of work to improve my power-endurance, including the use of replica problems as well leg training for the kneebar rest. The thought of heading back to Rainman in the Spring always kept my training psych high!"
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
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Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
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Batman 9a/+ by Joshua Ibbertson (17)
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Steve McClure, 52, does Le Voyage, 8b+ (trad)
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Batman 9a/+ by Joshua Ibbertson (17)
Joshua Ibbertson, who made his first 8a headlines at age 10 doing two 8a's, has done Batman 9a/+ at Malham. The was the 17-year-old's third 9a and harder and al…
Rainshadow 9a by Luke Dawson
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Steve McClure, 52, does Le Voyage, 8b+ (trad)
Steve McClure, who did the FA of Rainman 9b in Malham Cove in 2017, has repeated James Person's Le Voyage 8b+ in Annot, which is a trad route protected by many …
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…