NEWS

Caleb Franchere flashes Moon Shadow (8B) and more
Caleb Franchere has in July flashed six boulders 8A and beyond in Rocklands including Moon shadow (8B).

Can you tell us more about your flash focus, the most memorable ones and your beta preparation?
Coming into the trip it was a goal of mine to flash 8B, as well as give absolutely everything I hopped on a good flash burn. Itโ€™s been really fun to work on my execution!

Iโ€™d say definitely Moon shadow and Shosholoza are the ones Iโ€™m most stoked about, Moon shadow for being my first 8B flash and Shosholoza for being one of the first Rocklands climbs Iโ€™d ever saw.

The only preparation Iโ€™ve been doing is studying up on different videos of the climb beforehand, especially scoping beta from climbers similar in size to me.

What is the next plan?
Iโ€™m very close to Speed of Sound (8B+) and Mooiste Meisie (8B) so Iโ€™ll be spending this last week focused on those

Alex Megos flashes Baby Cakes (9a)
Alex Megos has flashed Ryan Sklenicaโ€™s Baby Cakes (9a) in Nowra, which is a link-up of Cheesecake (9a) into Little Baby Cheeses (9a). โ€Fitness climbing through the roof.โ€ (c) Talia Suh
The 32-year-old German climber has three 9b+ ascents to his name, along with one 9a onsight and two 9a flashes. He has also enjoyed an outstanding competition career, earning ten World Cup podium finishes and three World Championship medals.

Can you tell us more about the beta preparation?
It was definitely a very dry day for Nowra. Apparently it can be quite wet and seep a lot, but we were lucky. I watched a video the night before and got the holds explained by Ryan and Gorge. Then on the morning of the flash they both went up on the route and Ryan showed me the first half and Gorge showed me the second half. I set off and pretty much executed everything very well ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿผ

Oriane Bertone Euro Boulder Champion
France's Oriane Bertone, last year's World Cup winner, is the new European Bouldering Champion. France dominated the competition, placing three climbers in the top four. Their strength was even more evident in the semifinals, where they claimed the top three positions, with Bertone finishing first. More info to come.

Maximillian Milne Euro Boulder Champion
Maximillian Milne struck gold in Barcelona, improving on the European Boulder Championship silver he claimed two years ago. The 25-year-old Brit has also previously finished runner-up at a World Cup.

Samuel Richard placed third with two tops, while Hannes Van Duysen took silver despite topping just one boulder. More information to follow.

Sergio San Martรญn climbs Las meninas R2 (9a+)
Sergio San Martรญn Fernandez, who started climbing in 2020 at age 18, has completed Las meninas R2 (9a+) in Rodellar. Between the ages of 9 and 18, he did breakdancing. During the last year before he started climbing, he also practiced calisthenics.

โ€ A dream come true: my first 9a+! ๐Ÿฅน A super long, incredibly pumpy route, and in a season that, if you ask me, is way hotter than it should be. The first pitch is 9a+, and I guess the second is around 8c? I'm not really sure, but I absolutely loved climbing it. Thanks to everyone who has been there supporting me. Now it's time for moreโ€”there's still plenty of summer left! ๐Ÿฅน๐Ÿณโ›ฑ๏ธโ€

Can you tell us more about the trip and sending your first 9a+?
What I had been wondering for a while was whether I was ready to make the jump to the next level after climbing 9a, especially since there aren't many routes in the ninth grade around Alicante. So I knew my main goal for this trip to Rodellar was to give it a serious try. I started by attempting Meninas Sixtina (8c), a pure endurance route that suited me really well. I managed to send it on my second day of the trip.

The following week, I dedicated myself to working on Las meninas (9a), especially its crux: a highly pumpy endurance section with very technical knee-bar rests. I was lucky to figure it out fairly quickly, and that's when I realized I actually had a chance. Everything came down to the final pitchโ€”an incredibly technical 8c.

In total, it's about 50 meters of climbing. With the heat we've had these past few days, it was a real sufferfest, but in the end I managed to send this absolute 10/10 route after just three weeks. I definitely paid the price, thoughโ€”I could barely walk afterward from all the knee-bars I had to jam into that roof.

It was a grade I'd been chasing for a long time, and finally achieving it has given me a lot of confidence to take on even bigger goals.

What is next?
Iโ€™m going to start trying La Vie (9b) without pressure. But I feel it will be a more ambitious project.

Ajda Remลกkar climbs Kingslayer (8c)
Ajda Remลกkar, the Slovenian team manager in the current Youth Worldโ€™s in Arco, has sent Kingslayer (8c) in Ter. The five star line was bolted by Rajko Zajc and then Klemen Novac did the FA of in 2018.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This one was a big challenge for meโ€” a series of mini cruxes that kept me at my full span and required some creative solutions for the powerful and dynamic sequences. An absolutely phenomenal route.

Attempting it during a heat wave felt silly, but the send go came as a rare moment of calm during a pretty turbulent period so it felt really satisfying to finish it off.

Satone Yoshida ticks Three degrees of separation (9a+)
Satone Yoshida, who last Sunday was seventh in the Chamonix WC, has sent Three degrees of separation (9a+) in Cรฉรผse. Impressively enough, it only took him four four days and seven tries to repeat the Chris Sharmaโ€™s classic. โ€I still canโ€™t believe I send itโ€ฆ. Iโ€™m only 166cm, and it was kind a dream to send this classic dyno route!! If you donโ€™t have enough height, youโ€™re definitely going to struggle. But if you can find tiny holds and build the right sequence, sending it is far from impossible!!โ€

Last year, the 22-year-old finished third overall in the World Cup standings. This season, he currently sits eighth and has reached the top-eight finals on 18 occasions throughout his career.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The first dyno turned out to be twice as far as I expected. I had to use a tiny foothold that no one else was using just to make the jump. Even getting to that point, I couldnโ€™t do the standard beta, so I had to add a few extra moves using tiny holds.

Once I had the beta figured out, I knew this had become one of the projects I wanted to finish at some point in my life. Thatโ€™s why Iโ€™m still the most surprised that everything came together this quickly and I managed to send it on this trip!! I think it was one of the best climbs of my life.

Shawn Raboutou ticks Floatin 8C (+)
Shawn Raboutou reports on Instagram that he has repeated Ryuichi Muraiโ€™s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki. โ€Felt more like 15 [8C] to me, especially since I did it on my first day of this trip.โ€

It should be noted that Shawn has tried it in a previous trip.

Laura Rogora does MegaGeremia (9a) and onsights 8b
Laura Rogora has sent MegaGeremia (9a) in Valbrona and onsighted Menhir (8b) in South Tyrol. In the last year, the Italian has sent 20 routes 9a and beyond and onsighted 19 routes 8b and harder. (c) Mauro Sormani

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
On Saturday I tried Megageremia. I had six attempts, but I never managed to reach the first anchor of the 8c+ section. During the first few goes I kept refining the beta and figuring out the best sequence. On my fifth attempt I made it to just one move before the end of the hard section, but by my sixth go I had nothing left. Thankfully, I came back on Sunday and sent it first go.

On Monday, on my way back to Innsbruck, I stopped at Passo Gardena after a friend asked if I wanted to try Menhir. What an incredible route. Two French climbers had been trying it, so there were plenty of tick marks, which definitely made the onsight a bit more straightforward. Still, I'd wanted to climb this line for years, and it absolutely lived up to the hype.

Quinn Mason ticks Spectre Del Norte (8c+)
Quinn Mason, who last year sent her first 9a, has sent Spectre Del Norte (8c+) in Squamish. โ€Turned myself into a chalk ball. Maybe the most sweaty, pumped, and chalky I've ever been. An incredible reminder of what its like to be terminally pumped but somehow keep climbing. This climb is such a good test piece of resistance climbing and recovering on the wall - my favorite :) Still reflecting on the grade...โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Spectre del Norte was the 7th line Iโ€™ve completed at Paradise Wall and my 4th this season. I keep coming back because the quality of the rock and movement is unbeatable and itโ€™s the ultimate training grounds for me to keep my sport climbing fitness up. Spectre del Norte takes all the hard climbing on Spirit of the West (8b+) and uses a techy, crimpy boulder to link back into Queen Bee (8a+). The boulder itself features improbably small feeling crimps and requires precise footwork. I sent the route on my second try but I had already climbed all of the individual sections of the route.

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