Chipping in Finestra wall in Margalef

EDITORIAL

4 June 2022

Angie Scarth-Johnson who just did the FFA of Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef reports on Insta about chipping on that route as well as on . "The truth is , though never mentioned by anyone before, this has been something that’s been happening for years along the Finestra wall and its top end routes and I’m curious as to why things have never been said before Though I’ve Never had a personal experience with this until now , I have heard of these situtions amongst locals before."

So during the two seasons of projecting it was just lately you found two changes which did not change the difficulty? Then later after your send, during the last few days, some guys have found another changes that make the route easier?
No, the route has not been made easier by any means. Though slight modifications to the holds forced me to re-refine my betas the modifications when I last tried it were very minimal. Though now people are speaking of new changes after I left Margalef.

1  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

5 May 2022

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…

Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

5 February 2022

Siegrist comments - Harder grades in the USA?

Alexej Pinchuk has presented statistics of all 9a+ to 9c ascents. A total of 26 climbers from the US have done a 9a+, which can be compared with 21 from Spain a…

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

RELATED

Victimas Perez 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

1 June 2022

Victimas Perez 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c+ at age 12,has done the first female ascent of Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef. (c) Jorge Diaz-Rullo How many session…

Pornographie 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

23 August 2022

Pornographie 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who previously has done two 9a’s, has sent Pornographie (9a) in Céüse. (c) Adri Martinez ”It is such a beautiful route, it almost feels l…

Angie Scarth-Johnson lifestyle globetrotter since age 9

17 January 2022

Angie Scarth-Johnson lifestyle globetrotter since age 9

Angie Scarth-Johnson made the first 8a headline at age 9 by doing an 8b in Red River Gorge (KY). Amazingly, her parents did not climb but supported her big inte…