Here is the unique list with the hardest trad routes in the world. Surely, some are missing but we believe that this list is the most correct available today. In UK they are using a different grading system, showing also how dangerous the routes are. We have tried to convert these grades into the 8a scale. It should be mentioned that some routes, are relatively easier than sport routes once top-roping, as sometimes the difficulty on trad routes includes difficult positions placing gear and clipping the gear. In sport climbing, the carbiners are normally already hanging on the bolts which are placed in easier positions.

A Little Peculiar a.k.a. Elegy Direct 8c / E6 7b Paul Higginson

Bellavista 8c Alex Huber

Blind Vision 8b+ / E10 7b Adrian Berry

Cobra crack, 8c/+ Sonnie Trotter

Welcome to the Cruel World 8b+ / E9 7a Dave Birkett

Dihedron 8b+ Randy Leavitt

Dihedral Wall 8b+ Tommy Caldwell

Elder Statesman 8c? / HXS 7B Steve McClure

Fathers Day 8b+ Alan Moore

Greenspit 8b+ Didier Berthod

Is not always Pasqua 8b+ / E9 7a Mauro Calibani

Lost Horizons 8b+ Rob Candilera

Magic Line 8c Ron Kauk

No Way Jose 8b/8b+ Jose Pereya

Puss på morfar, 8b/+ Magnus Lindstedt

Rhapsody 8c+ / E11 7a Dave McLeod

South Face of Washington Column 8b+ Matt Wilder

The Great Arete 8c+ / E? 7b Steve Dunning

The Nose 8b+ Lynn Hill

The Dragon 8b+  Patrick Turner

Zebree 8b+ Jeff Beaulieu

Zodiac 8b/8b+ Huberbaum

Dani with his girlfriend Daila Ojeda	Dani with his heavy driller which he has made 1000's holes.
Do you see Dani on the ground!	You can actually drive all the way!

Here is a quick topo of Santa Linya which we have done together with Dani Andrada who has developed most of the routes. Sorry for pasting it vertical but we had to do it in order to make it possible for you to print it out. It should be mentioned that there are no good warm-up routes even if we tried our best by putting up a 6b+. However, all the 7b+'s are good but still rather sharp. The inner part of the cave is always in the shade. Walking from the car is only some hundred metres.

Adam Ondra - 93 The best youngster ever

Adam Ondra, 11-years-old

Does it exist any other sport where an 11-year-old can be part of the world's Top-10 list? Probably, the closest you get is gymnastic where Russia continously, by disciplinary elite schools and strict diets, produce acrobatic mini-girls. Adam Ondra seems to be just an ordinary boy who enjoys climbing just like any child. 8a.nu would like to state that we would not have publish the interview if it had turned out that it was performance who where the driving force for him or his parents. Luckily and as a good role model it seems to be the opposite.

- More meters, more experiences, more fun!

When, Why and How did you start climbing?

I have been climbing with my parents since my early childhood. Sometimes I tried to climb something or only swung on the rope. When I was six or seven I did some harder routes top rope. Then I tried a competition, which has motivated me a lot.

How often do you climb?
During the week I climb two or three times, usually bouldering. My partner is Martin Stranik (second in European Youth Cup 2004). I have a small climbing wall at home, as well. But there is a disadvantage - you have to climb without manesium and your shoes. Weekends we spend in rocks. I prefer rocks.

Do you have a special program?
I haven't got any system, yet. I don't develop up my muscles, only naturally by climbing, I do stretching. I climb when I want and what I want. I did gymnastics for some years, but I didn't compete. Just for fun.

Which is your next goal?
I don't like speaking about my plans very much. So only in general - I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time.

What kind of routes do you like best?
I like slightly overhanging walls. I usually have problems in roofs and routes with artificial holds and bored holes, because I'm not tall enough. If I see a nice route, no matter the grade or the character, I want to climb it. Cracks too. I aim to climb all types of routes on various types of rocks. I try to climb new projects in crags near Brno.

Who belay you and how do you avoid hard falls? Usually my parents, sometimes my friends. Anybody, who is free. But a problem comes in the other situation - nobody wants to be belayed by me :-). I'm not afraid of hard falls, but I don't climb dangerous routes. More meters, more experiences, more fun!

Alex Chabot Pic: Kazu Chiba

Bouldering in Argentina Pic: C Larcher

Pic Yann Corby

Alexander Chabot is the best competition climber ever, with 21 World Cups in his harness. Alex has won the French championship six times in a row but last year his federation (FFME) did not allow him to compete due to a sponsor argument, twice! On the 24th of March at 18.30, Alex has to appear to a hearing with the disciplinary board of FFME in Paris. Cedric Larcher travelled to Argentina with Alex and lifestyle and FFME were discussed.

Bouldering in Fontainebleau Pic: Kazu Chiba

Maybe no World Cups in 2006!?

Lately, Alex has been more active outdoors with many challenging onsights like Directa Chalenger and L-mens, 8b+ and Kinematix 9a. In total Alex has done 18 routes 8c and harder included the flash of Balzolita, 8c. Alex would be Top-5 in the 8a All time high ranking.

8a supports the ideological mindset of Alex and we think that he is both brave and open-minded in his opinions. It is very important for the climbing community that money, politics and guardianship don't ruin the climbing lifestyle even for those who want to be #1 at the competition scene.

What gave you the idea to go to Argentina?

Mike Doyle gives us a quite sad story from how he and our sport
took part in the Torino Olympics as a demonstration sport. Climbing
is one of the fastest growing sport nowadays but if we want to be
part of the Olympics we probably need to change our competition
format as many other sports do. Here is some suggestions from 8a.

As many of you know the international federation for competition
climbing (UIAA-Climbing) was asked to hold some climbing
demonstrations during the Olympics in Bardonecchia, site of the
Olympic snowboarding events. The Mayor of Bardonecchia was able to
secure housing for 10 climbers at a time so the UIAA invited 30
climbers from around the world and cycled them through for the 16 days
of Olympic competition. I was in the first group and here are my
impressions of what went on and how climbing was received.

The first group was definitely the most international with climbers
from four different continents. There were two climbers from Asia (Lei
Zhao - China, Lai Zhao Cheng - Hong Kong), two more from Australia
(Christina Bedard, Alan Pryce), three from North America (Mike Doyle -
Canada, Vadim Vinokur - USA, Emily Harrington - USA) and four from
Europe( Jorg Verhoven - Netherlands, Magnus Midtboe - Norway, Angela
Eiter - Austria, Killian Fischhuber - Austria). Fortunately everyone
spoke english so we were all able to communicate.

None of us really knew what to expect when we arrived in Italy; Would
the Olympics be a party? Would lots of people watch the climbing? Were
we competing against each other? How cold would it really be? And the
most important question, would competition climbing benefit from this
event?

We all hoped that competition climbing would benefit and the
individual climbers made different sacrifices to be there. Some
changed road trip plans and paid their own way, some skipped school
and some took time of work to travel to Italy for a week.
Unfortunately I have to say that for the first group I'm not sure
competition climbing did benefit.

We were scheduled to climb twice a day with open climbing in the
morning and then a demonstration in the evening. It turned out there
was no difference as we would just end up climbing together and
sessioning. While it was a great time meeting everyone and climbing
around I'm sure it wasn't that exciting to watch. Imagine 10 people
scrambling around on boulders on one side of a huge room. People would
poke their heads in, stay for a bit and then leave. I'm guessing not
more than 20 people watched us in the week we were there. I was hoping
for more of a demonstration of climbing, maybe a mock competition or
at least something more exciting to watch.

As I said I was in the first group and I had hoped that things would
pick up after I left. Obviously the town and the athletes around were
pre-occupied with the Olympics. Unfortunately according to Maja Vidmar
things were pretty slow when she was there as well. She was in the
last group.

At least we had access to that amazing Itallian coffee and table tenis
(which China dominated)! The hospitality that the city showed us was
great and we were treated to the Male Snowboarding Halfpipe
competition so that was pretty cool. Although 6 hours of seeing guys
doing roughly the same thing was a bit much for all of us.

Nobody in the UIAA has any illusions about climbing becoming an
Olympic sport quickly. They understand that the sport still needs to
grow at the grassroots level in many countries. I would say that is
the biggest thing I took away from this event. The desire to help
bring competition climbing mainstream in Canada first. Now if only I
could quit my job...

For a slightly different perspective check out Debbie Glowach's report
here: http://www.usaclimbing.org/resources/2006_usac_olympics_report.pdf

Mike Doyle

Relay interview Natalija Gros vs. David Graham

The story of two worlds, 8C in Cresciano

Figaru-four on Story of two worlds, 8C

Can you see the hold?

Coup de Grace, 9a+

Kind of defined muscle structure

David seems to be using only friction...

I haven't had a chance to meet David Graham in person, I only know of him from few climbing videos where he showed an outstanding climbing performance and proved his name, talent and reputation. When watching these videos I perceived him (of course I might be mistaken) as a guy who is a bit shy or pulled-back at first, but can really open up to you once you get to know him. His style, charisma and sense of humor are the reasons why I decided to interview him. With this interview I wanted to not only brush on his climbing career (which I believe it is already known to most of the climbing community) but I also tried to (to some extent) focus on other aspects of his life (not necessarily climbing related), with a view to present David to the 8a.nu audience not only as a great climber but also as an interesting individual.

1. Let's start with a 'warm-up' question: When did you start climbing and why? What drove you to it?
I started climbing when i was 14, which means around April of 96. I was always into going outside and cruising around, mostly skiing or mountain biking or trying to play hockey on ponds, and when a friend of mine finally started climbing, I had an easy chance to start. I was really intrigued.

2. Do you have any brothers or sisters? Do they also climb?
I have one brother who is 20, who climbs a bit, and one half sister who is 7. She could be good, if she starts!

3. Do you often go on climbing trips to Europe and if so, which are your favorite spots?
Over the past 6 years I have spent the majority of my time living and traveling in Europe. I have spots all over which I love to visit! I love the Millau area in South France, Ticino, Fontainbleau, and I really enjoy exploring. I think typically I am finding at least 1 or 2 new "favorite" spots a year!

4. Have you ever been to Slovenia? We have some good climbing places here (also two 9a's if I am not mistaken).
I haven't been yet, but I will certainly be there someday!

5. As already mentioned, I have never met you in person, among others meaning also that I have never seen you on any of the  international competitions. What is your take on competing? Do you compete at all and will you ever compete in the World cups or World Championships?
I have been so intrigued by the realm of outdoor climbing, that I haven't even began to explore the competition world. The concept seems interesting, however, my ambitions, which are oriented around discovering beautiful new places and projects, don't coincide what-so-ever. Someday I would love to focus on climbing well in a comp, but at the moment, i am too intrigued with the depth of rock itself, i have so much more to learn, and so many more areas to explore!

6. Which climber was (or maybe still is) a role model for you as a kid? Which of the climbing legends (there are so many) would you put on the pedestal, why?
I was always inspired by people like Chris Sharma, and Fred Nicole. I really looked up to people who did first ascents and put up things in lots of different styles. The stuff those two put up, and continue to put up, are always in very different styles, and always very futuristic. Realization, and Dreamtime, were huge inspirations! They both tend to have a good eye for putting up really beautiful things, boulder or route, and always in a progressive style. Its hard to put people on pedestals, as I am sure they would appreciate being looked at as interesting individuals more than anything, but I would say they have an enor-mous amount of artistic vision, which I think is the most inspriring thing of all.

7. I know that you are an all-around climber: good on boulders as well as on hard routes. Which are the things that inspire you the most from both disciplines?
Well, that's a tough one. I love everything about climbing! It's hard to differentiate between climbing on a cliff, and climbing on boulders, as it is all climbing to me sometimes. I love the insane battles which ensue from routes, short and long routes alike, I tend to fight a lot more when tied in. Boulders are amazing because they are so accessible, and much more personal. I like being in Boulders, I can run around, explore, and do a lot by myself which can't be done at the cliff. However, the size, and grandeur of a cliff  is always so captivating. I think what I love truly is rock itself. I love the formations, the structure, and the colors. I love turning around corners and finding amazing things, or walking forever towards a wall, and the excitement that grows as you begin to discern all the lines and features. I could go on and on...

Since bouldering and route climbing are both done on the medium of rock, my attraction for the two is very similar. Its hard to split climbing, which feels so natural to say, in to sport climbing and bouldering. I love going climbing all the time, and that's why I go to a route one day, and the next day visit some boulders.

8. What about tread routes, mountain climbing and alpinism? Does that also interest you or do you, when browsing through the climbing magazines, usually skip the articles covering these topics?
I am really intrigued by the bigger rock formations. For years I have been traveling and seeing such amazing walls, which be little sport walls and boulders in so many ways. I feel like I'm honing my talent so to speak, practicing where its safe and accessible. One day, when the boredom hits me like a brick wall, I will be off, hiking to the base of one of the hundreds of incredible rock formations I have seen or heard about, to begin some real adventures. I can't wait for the day when that clicks, I have always wanted to be a big wall climber, and someday, when I have had my share of the smaller stones, I am on it. I read about that stuff all the time!

9. Congratulations for Coup de Grace (9a+) that you sent in  November 2005. Please describe in brief the route, especially the crux section, your overall experience in it and how was working on it? Did you celebrate the ascent?
Coup de Grace! That's my favorite route I have ever done. It's very unique, since it's on a boulder. The line is amazing, a steep line out the overhanging side of a massive bloc in a green valley. The route overhangs an ancient riverbed, so its very cozy, nice smooth rocks, open space, river, field, everything nice all at once! I found the route in May 05, exploring a new valley, and I was walking down the river, when all of the sudden, it was there. I guessed there wouldn't be any holds, but as I walked underneath it, I noticed that, yeah, there's holds! Big deal, since all the other big boulders are practically blank. I bolted on a miserable rainy day, and began trying it as soon as it was dry! I think I worked it for maybe 6 or 7 days, until I hurt my finger while climbing on it. That was devastating, since I was just about to go to Ceuse to try Realization, but hell, I couldn't do that after the injury. So I waited out the summer, and then began trying it again in the Fall. The moves are so friction dependent that I had to work out all new sequences, which were less powerful at least then the methods I was using in the spring. That's when the project came to life!

The route starts with a very powerful section on strange, oddly directed holds, maybe 8B bouldering. In seven moves, big ones, you climb a super steep section of about 6 meters, and then you climb direct into a very strange dihedral. It's very difficult to grade that section, as it is super technical and odd; but it is maybe 8A in itself. After this you have a rest, which is hard to take advantage of, since it's quite steep. However, you have no other choice as you are going into a final roof. This section is where the resistance really kicks in. It may be 8A/+, but given the fact that it consists of 15 drawn-out, technical roof moves it's a pain in the ass; all strecthed out on slopey rails. Lots of compression and bicycles for the feet, it caps the route off quite nice. After this you have a crazy little slab and arete, which is a bit scary, and rather strange, but no big deal.

My experience on that route was very deep, I worked on it in many different conditions, and the weather never helped me once. It was intense, as it was the one thing I wanted to do before I left the country, and I was so very happy to actually realize it! A huge step for me, I was psyched and I most certainly celebrated for about a week!!! I don't know really how hard it is, as I was the only one who tried it! We will see, hopefully it stays the same, and no one does anything horrible to it...It's most certainly the hardest route I have ever done, and considering all the routes I have accomplished in the last years, it seemed a serious standard above. 9a+? Its the most amazing piece of rock I have ever found, and its pretty damn majestic!

10. How do you prepare mentally for such a hard route? Do you have any special 'recipes' or tips that you might want to share with us?
Hmmmmm. Well, I cant really articulate how I prepare, as I am not sure myself. Somehow I would say: Find the rhythm! If you can harness rhythm in your mind and body, synchronize your physical self completely with your mind, then you are on the right path. Being in the right mental space takes a while, and sometimes it just happens. The mind is very subtle, and I find positive energy is one of the most important components. Balance, motivation and the right feeling in the body...as I said, it's hard to articulate "flow" but its key.

11. What is your next goal? Maybe trying a 9b?
Of course! I hope I can find something a step above! We shall see what it is, but I am ready!!! I just have to find it...

12. In the Dosage videos that I have seen you always looked very positive and full of energy. Do you also have days when you are 'down and out' and not feeling motivated for climbing and if so, what do you do to overcome that?
Hell yeah! I don't do well overcoming that. It's very difficult to stay positive and balanced when things you don't expect happen. For instance, I just fell off the last move of the heinous crimping nightmare Terremer, three times in a row, feeling super strong. On the last go, on the last move, my finger blasted off this tiny crimper, and I ripped my entire finger-tip-callous off. I was
totally screwed for the last week and a half, and the temperature went up by about 25 degrees F. I feel totally un-syncronized now, out of the flow and it's so insanely hot, I have a hard time seeing the positive side of the situation. I think this is the type of situation you learn a lot about yourself and how to overcome that "down and out" sensation. I believe it has to do with internal energy forces, and the most important thing is to somehow balance your mindstate, rationalize what you may consider as a "loss," and find a new, updated, satisfying approach to the current situation. Mind over matter's what matters? I suppose, its just hard not be hypocritical about it sometimes...

13. Do you also practice any other sport or do you have a hobby?
I love to go ski, but i rarely go. Reading, exploring places, traveling, people, cooking, talking, thinking...

14. I see that you are from Maine, USA. Do you like living there or would you rather live somewhere else? What do you do in winter where it is all covered with snow?
I haven't lived there for 6 years now. I had a hard time living there when I did, but I can see all the positive things I learned from my experiences growing up buried in snow. I love it there, in a way, and I am so happy not to be there sometimes, its crazy. My family lives there, so I am always really happy to be there when I return. Its a beautiful place and the restaurants kick ass. Maine!

15. I see from your date of birth that you are a Scorpio. Do you believe in horoscopes, karma and other stuff like that?
Yes, I do believe in energetic stuff like that...I am probably a typical Scorpio-rooster, people could say. It would be hard to delve into right now, but, the world is full of all kinds of energy, it's just open to interpretation.

Who do you call or go to when you really have to put something off your chest?
Go look for boulders. Brush something. Build a landing, or bolt.

17. I apologize in advance if being too personal and you don't have to answer this but anyways: have you ever been really in love and  are you seeing anybody at the moment? Have you ever been dumped by a girl?
I am in love with my girlfriend who I have been seeing for over 3 years now! She's rad, and we have had an amazing time cruising around all over the world!

18. Where do you go when fell like partying? Do you (occasionally, of course) drink? If so, what is your favorite liquor or other alcohol-based drink?
Tequilla!! Nice wine!

19. Which was the last movie that you went to see to the movie theatre? What is your typical Friday night like?
Every nights a friday night, and I never know what to expect. At the "house of Doom" where I currently reside here in Hueco, one never knows what to expect. Huge party, or people sleeping at 10. You never know in this crazy world what might happen. I haven't been to a theatre for ages, but currently I am watching the Evangalion japanamation series. Go figure...

20. OK, let's finish off with some easy  questions. Favorite show on TV?
Uhhh, I don't watch TV enough, so I don't know the current shows, but I like the Simpsons, and South park for satire. For pure idiocy and an accurate repesentaion of my generation of American culture, I watch MTV with a look of appalation and disgust, and anything Sci-fi ( I guess that includes MTV)

21. Favorite book?
A Scanner Darkly, by Phillip K. Dick
22. McDonald's or carefully selected nutrition?
Both!!!!
23. Hottest celebrity?
Hmmmmm, Penelope Cruz
24. Any last messages or shout-outs to all the fans at the 8a.nu?
Everybody keep it real, keep on developing this beautiful new culture we are a part of, and respect yourselves, each other and
the rock! FUERZAAAAAAAAA!!!!!
25. Who do you want to interview and why?
Joe Kinder! He is my one of my brethren, and has a really inspiring style in which he accomplishes everything he's doing!

Well David, thank you very much for your time and hope to see you maybe someday in person!
Natalija Gros

Relay interview Natalija Gros vs. David Graham

The story of two worlds, 8C in Cresciano

Figure-of-four on Story of two worlds, 8C

Can you see the hold?

Coup de Grace, 9a+

Kind of defined muscle structure

David seems to be using only friction...

I haven't had a chance to meet David Graham in person, I only know of him from few climbing videos where he showed an outstanding climbing performance and proved his name, talent and reputation. When watching these videos I perceived him (of course I might be mistaken) as a guy who is a bit shy or pulled-back at first, but can really open up to you once you get to know him. His style, charisma and sense of humor are the reasons why I decided to interview him. With this interview I wanted to not only brush on his climbing career (which I believe it is already known to most of the climbing community) but I also tried to (to some extent) focus on other aspects of his life (not necessarily climbing related), with a view to present David to the 8a.nu audience not only as a great climber but also as an interesting individual.

1. Let's start with a 'warm-up' question: When did you start climbing and why? What drove you to it?
I started climbing when i was 14, which means around april of 96. I was always into going outside and cruising around, mostly skiing or mountain biking or trying to play hockey on ponds, and when a friend of mine finally started climbing, I had an easy chance to start. I was really intrigued.

2. Do you have any brothers or sisters? Do they also climb?
I have one brother who is 20, who climbs a bit, and one half sister who is 7. She could be good, if she starts!

3. Do you often go on climbing trips to Europe and if so, which are your favorite spots?
Over the past 6 years I have spent the majority of my time living and traveling in Europe. I have spots all over which I love to visit! I love the Millau area in South France, Ticino, Fontainbleau, and I really enjoy exploring. I think typically I am finding at least 1 or 2 new "favorite" spots a year!

4. Have you ever been to Slovenia? We have some good climbing places here (also two 9a's if I am not mistaken).
I havent been yet, but I will certainly be there someday!

5. As already mentioned, I have never met you in person, among others meaning also that I have never seen you on any of the  international competitions. What is your take on competing? Do you compete at all and will you ever compete in the World cups or World Championships?
I have been so intrigued by the realm of outdoor climbing, that I haven't even began to explore the competition world. The concept seems interesting, however, my ambitions, which are oriented around discovering beautiful new places and projects, don't coincide what-so-ever. Someday I would love to focus on climbing well in a comp, but at the moment, i am too intrigued with the depth of rock itself, i have so much more to learn, and so many more areas to explore!

6. Which climber was (or maybe still is) a role model for you as a kid? Which of the climbing legends (there are so many) would you put on the pedestal, why?
I was always inspired by people like Chris Sharma, and Fred Nicole. I really looked up to people who did first ascents and put up things in lots of different styles. The stuff those two put up, and continue to put up, are always in very different styles, and always very futurisitic. Realization, and Dreamtime, were huge inspiriations! They both tend to have a good eye for putting up really beautiful things, boulder or route, and always in a progressive style. Its hard to put people on pedastels, as I am sure they would appreciate being looked at as intresting individuals more than anything, but I would say they have an enor-mous amount of artistic vision, which I think is the most inspriring thing of all.

7. I know that you are an all-around climber: good on boulders as well as on hard routes. Which are the things that inspire you the most from both disciplines?
Well, that's a tough one. I love everything about climbing! It's hard to differentiate between climbing on a cliff, and climbing on boulders, as it is all climbing to me sometimes. I love the insane battles which ensue from routes, short and long routes alike, I tend to fight a lot more when tied in. Boulders are amazing because they are so accessible, and much more personal. I like being in Boulders, I can run around, explore, and do a lot by myself which can't be done at the cliff. However, the size, and grandeur of a cliff  is always so captivating. I think what I love truly is rock itself. I love the formations, the structure, and the colors. I love turning around corners and finding amazing things, or walking forever towards a wall, and the excitment that grows as you begin to discern all the lines and features. I could go on and on...

Since bouldering and route climbing are both done on the medium of rock, my attraction for the two is very similar. Its hard to split climbing, which feels so natural to say, in to sport climbing and bouldering. I love going climbing all the time, and thats why I go to a route one day, and the next day visit some boulders.

8. What about tread routes, mountain climbing and alpinism? Does that also interest you or do you, when browsing through the climbing magazines, usually skip the articles covering these topics?
I am really intrigued by the bigger rock formations. For years I have been traveling and seeing such amazing walls, which be little sport walls and boulders in so many ways. I feel like I'm honing my talent so to speak, practicing where its safe and accessible. One day, when the boredom hits me like a brick wall, I will be off, hiking to the base of one of the hundreds of incredible rock formations I have seen or heard about, to begin some real adventures. I can't wait for the day when that clicks, I have always wanted to be a big wall climber, and someday, when I have had my share of the smaller stones, I am on it. I read about that stuff all the time!

9. Congratulations for Coup de Grace (9a+) that you sent in  November 2005. Please describe in brief the route, especially the crux section, your overall experience in it and how was working on it? Did you celebrate the ascent?
Coup de Grace! That's my favorite route I have ever done. It's very unique, since it's on a boulder. The line is amazing, a steep line out the overhanging side of a massive bloc in a green valley. The route overhangs an ancient riverbed, so its very cozy, nice smooth rocks, open space, river, field, evertyhing nice all at once! I found the route in May 05, exploring a new valley, and I was walking down the river, when all of the sudden, it was there. I guessed there wouldn't be any holds, but as I walked underneath it, I noticed that, yeah, there's holds! Big deal, since all the other big boulders are practially blank. I bolted on a miserable rainy day, and began trying it as soon as it was dry! I think I worked it for maybe 6 or 7 days, until I hurt my finger while climbing on it. That was devastating, since I was just about to go to Ceuse to try Realization, but hell, I couldn't do that after the injury. So I waited out the summer, and then began trying it again in the Fall. The moves are so friction dependent that I had to work out all new sequences, which were less powerful at least then the methods I was using in the spring. That's when the project came to life!

The route starts with a very powerful section on strange, oddly directed holds, maybe 8B bouldering. In seven moves, big ones, you climb a super steep section of about 6 meters, and then you climb direct into a very strange dihedral. It's very difficult to grade that section, as it is super technical and odd; but it is maybe 8A in itself. After this you have a rest, which is hard to take advantage of, since it's quite steep. However, you have no other choice as you are going into a final roof. This section is where the resistance really kicks in. It may be 8A/+, but given the fact that it consists of 15 drawn-out, technical roof moves it's a pain in the ass; all strecthed out on slopey rails. Lots of compression and bicycles for the feet, it caps the route off quite nice. After this you have a crazy litlle slab and arete, which is a bit scary, and rather strange, but no big deal.

My experience on that route was very deep, I worked on it in many different conditions, and the weather never helped me once. It was intense, as it was the one thing I wanted to do before I left the country, and I was so very happy to actually realize it! A huge step for me, I was psyched and I most certainly celebrated for about a week!!! I don't know really how hard it is, as I was the only one who tried it! We will see, hopefully it stays the same, and no one does anything horrible to it...It's most certainly the hardest route I have ever done, and considering all the routes I have accomplished in the last years, it seemed a serious standard above. 9a+? Its the most amazing piece of rock I have ever found, and its pretty damn majestic!

10. How do you prepare mentally for such a hard route? Do you have any special 'recipes' or tips that you might want to share with us?
Hmmmmm. Well, I cant really articulate how I prepare, as I am not sure myself. Somehow I would say: Find the rythm! If you can harness rythm in your mind and body, synchronize your physical self completly with your mind, then you are on the right path. Being in the right mental space takes a while, and sometimes it just happens. The mind is very subtle, and I find positive energy is one of the most important components. Balance, motivation and the right feeling in the body...as I said, it's hard to articulate "flow" but its key.

11. What is your next goal? Maybe trying a 9b?
Of course! I hope I can find something a step above! We shall see what it is, but I am ready!!! I just have to find it...

12. In the Dosage videos that I have seen you always looked very positive and full of energy. Do you also have days when you are 'down and out' and not feeling motivated for climbing and if so, what do you do to overcome that?
Hell yeah! I don't do well overcoming that. It's very difficult to stay positve and balanced when things you don't expect happen. For instance, I just fell off the last move of the heinous crimping nightmare Terremer, three times in a row, feeling super strong. On the last go, on the last move, my finger blasted off this tiny crimper, and I ripped my entire finger-tip-callous off. I was
totally screwed for the last week and a half, and the temperature went up by about 25 degrees F. I feel totally un-syncronized now, out of the flow and it's so insanely hot, I have a hard time seeing the positive side of the situation. I think this is the type of situation you learn a lot about yourself and how to overcome that "down and out" sensation. I believe it has to do with internal energy forces, and the most important thing is to somehow balance your mindstate, rationalize what you may consider as a "loss," and find a new, updated, satisfying approach to the current situation. Mind over matter's what matters? I suppose, its just hard not be hypocrytical about it sometimes...

13. Do you also practice any other sport or do you have a hobby?
I love to go ski, but i rarley go. Reading, exploring places, traveling, people, cooking, talking, thinking...

14. I see that you are from Maine, USA. Do you like living there or would you rather live somewhere else? What do you do in winter where it is all covered with snow?
I haven't lived there for 6 years now. I had a hard time living there when I did, but I can see all the positve things I learned from my experiences growing up burried in snow. I love it there, in a way, and I am so happy not to be there sometimes, its crazy. My family lives there, so I am always really happy to be there when I return. Its a beautiful place and the restaurants kick ass. Maine!

15. I see from your date of birth that you are a Scorpio. Do you believe in horoscopes, karma and other stuff like that?
Yes, I do believe in energetic stuff like that...I am probably a typical Scorpio-rooster, people could say. It would be hard to delve into right now, but, the world is full of all kinds of energy, it's just open to interpretation.

Who do you call or go to when you really have to put something off your chest?
Go look for boulders. Brush something. Build a landing, or bolt.

17. I apologize in advance if being too personal and you don't have to answer this but anyways: have you ever been really in love and  are you seeing anybody at the moment? Have you ever been dumped by a girl?
I am in love with my girlfriend who I have been seeing for over 3 years now! She's rad, and we have had an amazing time cruising around all over the world!

18. Where do you go when fell like partying? Do you (occasionally, of course) drink? If so, what is your favorite liquor or other alcohol-based drink?
Tequilla!! Nice wine!

19. Which was the last movie that you went to see to the movie theatre? What is your typical Friday night like?
Every nights a friday night, and I never know what to expect. At the "house of Doom" where I currently reside here in Hueco, one never knows what to expect. Huge party, or people sleeping at 10. You never know in this crazy world what might happen. I haven't been to a theatre for ages, but currently I am watching the Evangalion japanamation series. Go figure...

20. OK, let's finish off with some easy  questions. Favorite show on TV?
Uhhh, I don't watch TV enough, so I don't know the current shows, but I like the Simpsons, and South park for satire. For pure idiocy and an accurate repesentaion of my generation of American culture, I watch MTV with a look of appalation and disgust, and anything Sci-fi ( I guess that includes MTV)

21. Favorite book?
A Scanner Darkly, by Phillip K. Dick
22. McDonald's or carefully selected nutrition?
Both!!!!
23. Hottest celebrity?
Hmmmmm, Penelope Cruz
24. Any last messages or shout-outs to all the fans at the 8a.nu?
Everybody keep it real, keep on developing this beautiful new culture we are a part of, and respect yourselves, each other and
the rock! FUERZAAAAAAAAA!!!!!
25. Who do you want to interview and why?
Joe Kinder! He is my one of my brethren, and has a really inspiring style in which he accomplishes everything he's doing!

Well David, thank you very much for your time and hope to see you maybe someday in person!
Natalija Gros

By Lars Gilberg, Translation Karin Sterky

Junior World Champion 2005 in Bejing Pic: Siri Drageset

#7 in Kranj Pic: Urban Golob

#6 in Valence Pic: Cyril Crespeau

Le Cadre, 8c in Céüse

Do you consider what you do as an elite sport?
I haven't thought much about it. But I guess I do consider it a top-level sport because of all the training required to get successful. However, I think climbing is special, I think climbers care more for their sport than other top athletes - climbing is more like a lifestyle.

The average climber on 8a.nu, who climbs around 7a, what can he/she learn from you?
Maybe the fact that you don't need everything to develop as a climber. Joy for climbing and motivation for training is for sure the most important.

By: Knut Rokne

Sean McColl and Vikki Weldon are two of s top junior climbers. Sean won the Junior World Championships in 03 and 04, and placed 6th in last year. Vikki is the Canadian open Bouldering Champion, and placed 5th at the youth World Championships last year in . This interview was conducted over the space of a couple of days by email.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">How did you start climbing?

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Vikki - My older brother and sister started climbing at the climbing gym on the junior team. I would come every practise with my little brother and we would climb on the bouldering wall with our water shoes, while my other siblings trained. I was instantly hooked, and joined the team as soon as I could...and it took off from there!

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Sean - I started climbing when I was about 10 years old, and I started with my whole family as an athletic sport, just to keep fit and stuff.  After a couple of months I started going to a couple of junior team practices, then after my first comp, (which I won beginning) I too, was also hooked

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">How is the climbing going these days?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Sean - I've pretty much been training 3 times a week since worlds, and that will hopefully continue till next worlds, and I'll bump it up to 4 times a week during the summer.  Climbing outdoors right now is non-existent because we almost broke our "most days of rain" record of 27 days.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Vikki - Climbing is my life these days. I eat, sleep and drink climbing...if that were possible! I'm training on the competitive team at my gym in , the Calgary Climbing Centre. Last year was my best year of climbing so far. I placed 1st for women in Open Canadian Bouldering Nationals. I then travelled to  with the Canadian team where I placed 5th in the Youth A Female category. I'm excited for this year, and all its opportunities!

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What are you plans for the next little while?