Vertical-Life
ARTICLES
Who to believe...
Fact or fiction?
Markus Bock (picture below) has, once again, accused Rosta Stefanek of being a liar. It's not the first time this type of thing happens and certainly not the last. The problem is that there is simply no way of knowing if Bock is right or wrong. The only person who knows is Rosta himself.
Markus himself is one of the strongest boulderers in the world today. In his home area, The Frankenjura, he's repeated basically everything hard, including Action directe, 9a, and also opened loads of problems and routes of his own including two 8C's, Gossip and Montecore. He's also proved himself abroad with, for example, ascents of 8B+'s in Ticino and 8c+'s in France.
The sport of climbing is in no way an exact science. How difficult things are is impossible to meassure. Neither are the rules written in stone or God given in any way. We need to use common sense. Unfortunately common sense isn't as common as you'd be led to believe... But what is a fact is that you know whether you've done something or not. Everything else is bull shit. You know whether your ascent is valid or not. Was it really an onsight or did you have too much information, making it a flash? Did the rope help you to hold that swing? Did your heel touch the ground on that difficult sit down? No one else can know these things with the same amount of surtainty. We could make up a million detailed rules, but in the end it will always boil down to two words: honesty and trust. If everyone has to prove everything... I think you all understand where that would lead us. On the other hand it's easily understood that people are going to become sceptical towards your ascents if no one ever sees you climb anything on a similar level. As a climbing "star" you're sooner or later, also going to have to face and deal with the fact that you, at least to some extent, are a role model, someone who a lot of people are admiring.
The list of people who've been accused isn't short. Let me give you a few examples:
Rosta Stefanek (right picture) - So, let's start off with Rosta himself. Rosta is a Czech climber who, over the years, has established himself firmly among the World's best by climbing boulders up to 8B+ and routes up 9a. In his home country doubts were first raised almost 6 years ago, in the spring of 2000. If my memory serves me right, this is what went down: Those doubts led to an article in the leading magazine. In particular Rosta's ascent of Le Miroir des vanités, 8Bb, was questioned. He was supposed to have done this traverse in late April, and, as we all know, this is hardly the ideal time if you want to send hard stuff in Fontainebleau... Anyway, Rosta invited the reporter to go with him back to Fontainbleau to see for himself. Said and done, they went there and Rosta climbed the traverse in front of the reporter. This was in July...
In the same year, Markus Bock questioned Rosta's ascent of Peter Steel, 8A+/B, in the Frankenjura and now he's questioning both routes and boulders. He demands proof and says Rosta couldn't have climbed the things he claims because he either wasn't there, or the conditions were impossible. On the subject of proof, it should be said that Rosta actually sent me a video of him climbing Festin de pierres, 8c+/9a, at Saussois, back in 2002, and there are people who've seen him climb hard problems in really bad conditions. Case open
Fred Rouhling (left picture) - This Frenchman shouldn't need any further introduction. Many were very sceptical towards his ascents of both Hugh, 9a, in 1993, and particularly Akira, 9b, in 1995. People said that if it truly was 9b, he couldn't have climbed it and if he had, there was no way in hell it could be 9b. History seem to be proving Fred right. Full story here . Case closed
Thomas Willenberg - Mystical German boulderer who've repeated many hard problems including Dreamtime. Thomas has opened one 8C of his own, Tranzendans, in Sachsen, Germany. Many locals were sceptical towards his claims both at home in Germany and in Australia. After a trip to the Grampians and the famous Hollow Mountain Cave, he claimed to have climbed most of the (then) hardest lines, including Cave Rave and Eve Rave both 8Bb+. Things like "he wasn't there" and "I saw him trying that thing and he wasn't even close" were flying through the air (and also the internet) . Then it turned out his hardest ascents were caught on film... It's been quite a while since we heard anything about him. Case closed
Jochen Rühl (right picture) - Young German who appeared out of nowhere and claimed ascents of some really hard problems including La Dance des Balrogs, 8B, Eau profonde, 8Bb+ and Coxa distorta, 8Bb. No one could back his claims. On the contrary many had seen him struggle on relatively easy routes and problems. This was way back in 1998, but last year Jochen, curiously enough, backed Markus Bock when he accused Gaskins. Case closed
Philip Moser a.k.a. "the German" - For a long time Moser's name was high in the rankings of 8a.nu. He claimed a lot of FA's and repeats, crowning it all with his own L'Anarchiste, 8C, at S:t Anne in southern France. We got a lot of indications saying Moser wasn't all that he claimed, and after Fred Tuscan and friends repeated the "8C", down grading it to 7B in the process, the bubble finally burst. We haven't heard anyhting about him since... Case closed
Si O'Conor (picture below) - Scotland's own enigmatic original. Many believe his claims, including a couple of 8C's, to be totally bogus. Whatever the truth is, the climbing world would be an emptier and less colourful place without him. Case open
John Gaskins (right picture) -British climber famous for his incredible crimp strength and low traverses. First ascents of two 8C's, Walk away SD and Il Pirata, none of which have been repeated. Maybe you remember the animated debate between John and Markus in the summer of 2004. John claimed fast ascents of a some of Bock's hardest problems, including Gossip, 8C. Markus was building his case in much the same way as this time. Of course no one could prove anything, but I must say John's track record speaks in his favour. Interestingely enough, Gossip is still listed as unrepeated on the Boulderrausch list. Case closed
Martin Cermak (left picture) - Martin is a Czech climber, currently #8 in the rankings, who some has accused of being less than truthful regarding his ability and ascents. Apparently he's several times agreed to meet up and prove himself. Evertime he's failed to show up...Case open.
Like I said in the beginning, these are but a few. The list is long and keeps growing... So, what do we do? Well... we simply wait and see. We'll simply have to take comfort in the fact that, in the end, faking ascents doesn't work. There's no way we can force anyone to prove what he or she has done. That's impossible, and it's also not the kind of community we want. One of mistrust.
Pictures courtesy of Climbing, Mountain.ru, Climbing.de, Bleau.info
Confirmations and Up-/Downgrading suggestions
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8a.nu Glossary
8a.nu Glossary - Another 100 is on it's way
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Flapper |
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Whipper! |
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Deep Water Solo |
8a/8A 8a = route, 8A = boulder, worldwide standard by 8a
Beta Specific information on how to climb a route/boulder
Closed crimp/Open hand Different finger positions
Crimper (C) /Sloper (S) Different holds C = Small, sharp S = Big, smooth
DWS Deep Water Solo
Flapper If the skin of your finger has been cut loose
Hang-dog Climb a route using bolts and quickdraws
Knee-drop/Highstep Turning your knee inwards or outwards
Limestone, Granite, Grit Different types of rock
Lock-off To lock your arm(s) in a static position
Matching Change hands (feet) on a hold
Morpho A boulder /(route) where it's good to be tall
Pof Resin used in Fontaineb to get better friction
Polished Worn out (often) limestone without friction
Pull-in/Push out Arms bending in or straighten out Article to come
Pump/Sustained Long/even routes = Hard lactid acid forearms
Run-out/Whipper Few bolts on a route - risk for whipper
Rope walking Walking a rope to get back on an overhang
Smearing Standing on friction only, no holds.
Spot Protect/catch your bouldering partner
8a.nu Glossary
8a.nu Glossary - Another 100 is on it's way
|
Flapper |
|
Whipper! |
|
Deep Water Solo |
8a/8A 8a = route, 8A = boulder, worldwide standard by 8a
Beta Specific information on how to climb a route/boulder
Closed crimp/Open hand Different finger positions
Crimper (C) /Sloper (S) Different holds C = Small, sharp S = Big, smooth
DWS Deep Water Solo
Flapper If the skin of your finger has been cut loose
Hang-dog Climb a route using bolts and quickdraws
Knee-drop/Highstep Turning your knee inwards or outwards
Limestone, Granite, Grit Different types of rock
Lock-off To lock your arm(s) in a static position
Matching Change hands (feet) on a hold
Morpho A boulder /(route) where it's good to be tall
Pof Resin used in Fontaineb to get better friction
Polished Worn out (often) limestone without friction
Pull-in/Push out Arms bending in or straighten out Article to come
Pump/Sustained Long/even routes = Hard lactid acid forearms
Run-out/Whipper Few bolts on a route - risk for whipper
Rope walking Walking a rope to get back on an overhang
Smearing Standing on friction only, no holds.
Spot Protect/catch your bouldering partner
Boulder routes
| Koyamada "This is not bouldering": 60 moves 8Cc+ |
| Tonino 78, 8C with 15 moves |
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Fred Nicole in the huge Hollow Mtn Cave: 10 boulder routes, 8Bb+ (25+ moves) Pic Simon Carter |
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In 2002, 8a.nu started to report routes = 8a and boulders = 8A. This has become a worldwide standard as it makes it easier to understand and value reported news. Lately, the highest grades and most attention, on the bouldering scene, have been given to 20 - 60 moves 'boulder routes'. Short and powerful boulders are more seldom given high grades and fame. One reason for this is that sometimes 'boulder routes' are graded with the softer traverse grade.
8a.nu suggest and will start to report boulder routes = 8Aa, in order to separate and value different reported grades. By doing so we also hope to increase the focus and attention on the challenge of who is doing the most powerful moves and boulders.
Some 50 % out of the 8B+ boulders and most of the suggested 8C+s are likely to be called 'boulder routes', as they are 15 moves or longer. There is a tendency to proudly favor many moves when it should be the opposite, at the bouldering scene. Relatively few 8B boulders are truly power challenges, i.e. less than 10 moves, in strict contrast to the ones up to 8A where, maybe 90 %, consists of up to 4 metres of powerful bouldering.
The reason for this development is probably that it is mentally much easier to work on a 'boulder route' as you will have fun doing and linking moves and sequences. To project a new and short 'personal best' boulder will be extreamely though in the beginning as you want succeed or even get close to do the moves for maybe 20 hours/2 months. Thus, it is much more mentally pleasant to project 'boulder routes'. In fact, the same tendency is found in route climbing where most of the hardest routes are very long.
8A = boulder 8a = route New category 8Aa = boulder routes
| The boulder routes grading should be in between |
Where to draw the line and what grades to use?
It is impossible to come up with some rational logic on how to decide the definition and how to separate a boulder from a 'boulder route'. There are so many different aspects to be taken into account, so we can only suggest a few guidelines and then it is up to anyone to make his own interpretation.
The achievement of doing an 8A boulder is more or less the same as an 8b route. Most of the boulder routes and traverses that have been put up have used the traverse grading system which is something in between boulder- and route grading. It is thus equally difficult to do an 8Aa+ boulder route as an 8A or 8a.
8a.nu suggests the continuating of three grading systems and that the definition of a boulder should be something like this.
Up to 6 meter climbing - Up to 20 moves - Need to use chalk - ??
What do you think?
Comments from five spanish celebrities, copied with permission from Desnivel - Translations by Ignacio Sandoval Burón
Dani Andrada Pic Pete O'Donovan
With regard to the short bouldery routes, for me at the moment you clip an anchor, even though it is only one, you have to apply the routes graduation system, although I see it right to detail it could be a 9a in routes or a 8B+ in boulder, for instance. Or just to note down the version you like more. Josune Bereziartu on E la nave va, 8Cc (travers) Pic Rikar Otegui Pedro Pons - Boulder WC Champ 2000 Iker Pou doing an 8Cc travers Pic www.pouanaiak.com Above Iker is doing Arroita and he has reported it as a 8c, whether he is using the boulder grade or the traverse grade (boulder route) we don't know so we can not say if this is one of the Top-3 most difficult boulders in the world or a very hard boulder route. I don't think a new special scale to be necessary, but to graduate the boulders like traverses or proper boulders, without mixing them with the routes because it would make it even fussier. It is not the same to try a route with rope than a long boulder comfortably from the ground, so I do not think both styles can be graduated the same. I consider a problem like a traverse, not like a boulder, from 15 movements. For instance: an 8b+ traverse would equal a boulder of 8b and an 8c+ route.
It is true that nowadays the majority of the boulder problems are very long, but I normally consider boulders those a little bit ascending till a maximum of 10 or 12 movements. If they have more movements I tick them like a traverse.
Concerning the graduation system, I do think it can be changed, but it is not the same a traverse of 8c+, at a physical level, than a 9a+ route. It is not the same because it is easier to work the movements, there is no psychological component, neither you are uncomfortably hung on the rope. There should be specified.
But unify graduations is difficult because there is more and more difference between one thing and the other. Besides, bouldering is more morphological than the routes and it depends to a great extent on the concrete physical conditions of each climber.
Rikar Otegui & Josune Bereziartu:
The graduation of a 50 metres route, a boulder of three, a exposed pitch of a big wall and a traverse at ground level, has a common denominator: with every of these types of climbing we get different feelings.
Almost all the climbers coincide in that it is not the same climbing tied to a rope or to do it without it climbing in a boulder. The same for what we understand for bouldering: an exercise short in length and time, very intense (depending on the level of the problem), with the final objective of reaching the top of the boulder.
Although the exception to the 'rule' says (and it is a very wide exception nowadays) that besides, longer boulders (almost like a short route), connexions in a same boulder, boulder traverses, etc. can be climbed; for all these exceptions there exists a special graduation named 'traverse graduation', and it is different to that of boulder.
The examples are quoted in the article are extreme routes/boulders. Well, it is not the same a traverse around the 9A close to the ground, where you can try every movement the times you want with no effort, than a 9a route, taking a simple example.
We do think that the trigger of this controversy comes from those realizations in which, instead graduating it with a traverse graduation, the boulder one has been used.
When you take a look to the guides you are used to differentiate between a boulder and a boulder traverse. They are graduated in a different way. Even if they share numbers, symbols and letters, you reach to know what it means, for instance, an 8a traverse or an 8A boulder.
Climbing is not mathematics; precisely it is what makes it attractive for us. If different ways of graduation are understood, and when something is climbed out of the standard is explained, there should not be any problem to interpret every climbing.
Pedro Pons:
To lucubrate revolving around the graduation is, as we can see, typical of climbers, no matter you are called Manolo and you are in El Chorro eating olive tapas or Björn and you prefer smoked salmon.
As our Nordic friend states, graduations keep being imperfect, they are rather clumsy, I even would say more that what he raises and tries to solution with his standardizing theory. Let's see some curiosities in the climbing world:
- Grades suffer variations from a climbing spot to the other, and this happens with and without rope.
- The type of rock affects the number. It is not the same the limestone than the granite or the sandstone.
- The style summed to the rock gives the grade a fantastic variability yet, see a Yosemitic crack, slabs in La Pedriza or tuffas in Rodellar.
- The same scale is used at on-sight and at redpoint, when everybody knows that at on-sight all the routes in the same grade are not equal. The great part of the climbers do prefer a route with pockets stained with magnesium than a slab in La Pedriza cleaned after the last rains.
- As Björn says, there are some routes characterized by a single movement and others by their endurance.
- Etcetera, etcetera, etcetera?
Where do I want to come to with all this? First, that for me it is not a problem that somebody is first in the 8a.nu ranking with a boulder of 1000 movements, because if Dai says it is hard, it must be so.
Second, a highball with rope is not a highball, it is a top rope and it is evidently easier, isn't it?
Third, comparing difficulties with or without rope is completely mistaken, since the traverses are more accessible and therefore easier, that's why the traverse graduation exists. Besides, the issue is more complex than power or endurance.
Fourth, fourth? I do not know where I am. Ah yes, it maybe it is worth to completely unify it in order to the bar gathering after climbing do not finish on nothing and to the 8a.nu has a more attractive ranking or, it maybe not?
Iker Pou:
The truth is that it is an interesting text and of an issue that needed to be defined from a long time ago. It is true that every time there is a tendency to long boulders in order to look for more difficulty, but there is where I think people have to be more honest with themselves.
Those long boulders have to be graduated like traverses, that's why there existed a special scale where this boulder was given a grade and after that was specified whether it was a traverse (7c Fb trav.) or not.
User guide & FAQ
User Guide & FAQ
8a.nu is the world's leading climbing website with with more than 11 000 members, including the very best, who run personal webpages where they keep track of ascents etc. 8a.nu is unique, as compared to any other sport activity, as the best athletes personally interact in an open community. Interview in Climbing magazine.
- 1. Log-in by using your - Member ID Number or Email. Log-in problems is almost always
casused by cookies - Delete them.
2. If you don't remeber your password we can send it to you - "New member".
3. You can see "All Ascents". But normally, only your ascents the last 12 months are listed.
4. You can "Modify" all your registrated ascent; Change spelling, grade, date etc.
5. "Top-10 routes", list and show the calculation of your scorecard.
8a = 1000, 7c+ 950 and 7a = 700, onsight +145, flash +53 and toprope -51
6. "Total score (All time)", list all your registrated routes.
7. Automatic updating on your friends scorecard by one click.
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8. If you think the grade is very "Soft" or "Hard" you can mark your opinion.
9. "First Ascent" = The first person ever to do a new route/boulder
"Second:Go = If you do it, the 2:Go you try it, incl. the hang-dog or onsight/flash try.
"Traditional = A route that is protected by nuts and friends.
"Traverse" = A boulder that goes horizontal
8a = routes
8A= boulders is a worldwide standard started by 8a.nu
Grade conversion - 8a =5.13b, 29, IX/+/X- and V11
To get all old news - Click at the top of the news section 'Numbers
and news'
Questions & Problems, [email protected] or message system
Good Luck ;)
Recruitment finger training
In general terms, all finger techniques are equally good. However, different techniques suite different climbers, holds, angles and rock. Most climbers have a dominated finger position and this position is therefore trained frequently, meanwhile the abandoned techniques are getting weaker. A balanced gripping repertoire is the key factor for any top-climber. Introduction article-2002!
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Open hand |
Open crimp - Often weak |
Closed crimp |
Your preferred technique usually depends on where and how you began to climb. If you started out on verticals with crimpers you are probably strong in a style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">closed crimp position, while if you started out on steep indoor bouldering your strongest position is style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">open crimp. Climbers that have started out on small limestone pockets and slopers, like in Fontainebleau, are often very skilled in style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">open hand.
Recruiting muscle fibres
The good thing is that, through recruitment training of your finger muscles, it is relatively easy to adapt and increase the strength of the different finger positions. In bouldering, you have probably noticed that you feel stronger by the number of tries. This is in fact partly due to recruitment. For each try, more muscle fibre is being used and coordinated.
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To much load makes index finger 'collapse'. |
Recruitment Training
Gripping positions can get more than 100 % stronger in 1 hour (i.e. 100 % more muscle fibres will be in use). To train this, you just hang on your fingers with a load that they can take and then gradually increase this load. However, if you overload your finger position will collapse and the training will become contra-productive.
Procedure:
1. Start by making 10 pulsations and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 - 10 times. When you feel/get stronger, increase the load.
2. Make 2+2 moves upwards and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 - 10 times. When you feel/get stronger you can prolong the moves.
3. Make 2 double hand moves upwards and then rest for 30 seconds. Repeat 5 - 10 times.
When you feel/get stronger you can start doing downward moves.
Different possibilities to increase the load
- A. Low load can be achieved by simply standing on the floor.
- B. Step inwards/backwards to increase the load.
- C. Stand on holds
- D. Foot-less
Muscle Training & Injuries
Your maximum power depends on the strength (size) of your fibre and the proportion of fiber that is in use. A later article will discuss how you can increase the strength of your muscle fibres. The first step however is to increase the use of the fibres that you already have. This can be achieved through campus board training, however, begin with low load training to reduce the risk of injuries. A good idea is to start every session with focus on your finger positions. This will give you a better understanding and knowledge of the gripping techniques - a key factor in climbing.
| Closed crimp in combination with open hand by Richard Simpson |
Extremely strong Open crimp by Angela Eiter |