Vertical-Life
ARTICLES
Natalija Gros
Martina Cufar interviews Natalija Gros, #5 in ICC world ranking and three times Youth Champion, who will continue the relay with David Graham... Misja Pec - Pic Urban Golob Kranj 2004 - Pic Urban Golob #3 in Kranj - Pic: Samo Vidic Natalija in Misja pec - Pic Urban Golob
It's not easy to do an interview with someone you know as well as I know Natalija. Since 2002 we have been training together and we have become very good friends. We have learned from each other. Not just climbing skills but also things that are important in everyday life. She's almost eight years younger than me, but I really don't feel the difference. The funny thing is, that I used to be her idol in her early age of climbing; but just till the moment when I pierced my nose. For her, it's very important how one looks; she spends a lot of time in the bathroom before competition to do her make-up. She would be happy if there would be such rules in climbing like in figure skating; where also the artistic impression counts. And I bet she would get the most points there; not only due to her look but most of all due to her elegant climbing style. Lets get more serious!
Martina and Natalija after her first 8b+ dec 22,: Marko Prezelj
Natalija, I won't ask you when and why you started climbing, because I know you began to climb on artificial wall when you were six years old. www.8a.nu is a site more oriented towards rock climbing, so do you remember when and where you first touched the rock?
Yes, I remember vividly when we set out to go climbing in the rock for the first time. It was shortly after I became acquainted with artificial wall. The 'project' going to the rock had been announced one week in advance. It was a beautiful sunny day and we didn't go very far. We stayed in my hometown Skofja Loka, under a nearby hill. When I first saw that rock, which is today already too small for me, I was excited, yet a bit scared. I was just roped into the route named 'Piton', graded 4b. I had to fight a lot, but I succeed in the first attempt.
When we first trained together I was impressed by her open finger power. And I still get annoyed when on the hold that is just big enough for me to crimp it, she manages to match three fingers of each hand and rest. Open grip is her big advantage. But in her last route, Kaj ti je deklica, 8b+, she had to crimp one hold. Natalija, where do you think you got this open hold power and how small has to be a hold that you have to crimp it?
Since the beginning I have never use the closed crimp. I knew that this kind of grip exists, as Eva Tusar, my then climbing partner used it all the time. But it simply did't fit me, I think because of my long fingers. Besides I often heard it was dangerous for injuries and thus I didn't even try to get to used to it. In the route 'Kaj ti je deklica' there was a small crimper, which I couldn't hold with an open grip, therefore I tried to close it. Even though this way, I was weaker, it felt comfortable. In my opinion, it is not the size but the shape of a hold that determines how I take it.
She has a very strong head and she is competitive. If she decides to do something, she will do it. It's amazing how much energy she can invest in one route, especially on a artificial wall and on competitions. She enters her own world, she maybe looks a bit special and antisocial, but I know why; because she's very concentrated on the route that is waiting for her, and there she will explode. Natalija, before a very important competition, where your goal is the podium, what do you see in me; a friend or someone to beat? Ok, this year it was not so hard to beat me, but let's say I would be as strong as Maja Vidmar?
In the rock she feels a bit insecure, especially in the long routes or high over the last quickdrawer. If on the an artificial wall Natalija is predominantly stronger than me, the situation is reverse in the rock. Natalija, how do you feel in the rock comparing to an artificial wall? Do you think that in the future you will have the same motivation for the rock as now for competitions, or is the rock for you just a place to relax a bit on the sun?
In the rock I sometimes don't feel secure, I'm especially afraid of falling. I think however, that if I dedicated as much time and energy to the rock as I do now to artificial wall, this feeling would slowly disappear and my self-confidence would grow. Currently I give advantage to the competitions and do not focus extensively to the rock. In the future however I certainly intend to climb a few more demanding route and overcome my 'rock fears and boundaries'.
Since October me and Natalija have a common trainer; the trainer that used to be her trainer for 6 years from 1996 till 2002 - Ales Jensterle. Natalija how would you present our coach to the 8a members?
He is undoubtedly the best trainer! I have had three trainers in my life and after we finished our cooperation, I was willing to train myself, just because I have always sworn by him. His three principles: the perfection of movement, moral cleanliness and spiritual wealth, tell everything.
Where do you think you still have some reserves and in which aspects Ales can help you to become a better climber?
I think that mostly in more disciplined training. Furthermore, in strength and endurance, where I still haven't reached the peak, in climbing technique, which is often neglected, and mostly in discovering myself and my limits that are in my head.I know it is not an innovative question, but since the new year has just began; What are your plans for this year? Not only on competitions also in non-climbing part of your life?
My plans for this year as far as the competition scene is still not clearly defined. I certainly wish and will strive for the highest places. I would like to go on a climbing trip for 2 weeks. Further, I would like to pass as many exams as possible, so that I can enroll in the third year of my study and major in dance, which is becoming my third love.
And four more questions from the www.8a.nu editor, Jens Larssen:
Why do you think that Slovenians are dominating in climbing?
Yes, this specially holds for the 'devilish Slovenian girls'(as they call us in Slovenia). I think the answer to this question is in our desire to prove that being from a small country doesn't mean we are inferior. And maybe this willpower keeps us moving forward and fuels us with additional motivation. It seems that this is in our genes.
When will the Slovenian team come and climb in Scandinavia?
This I really don't know. Scandinavia isn't known like a common destination for climbing trainings, but if you are inviting us, we will start thinking about coming to visit you.
How much do we have to pay you here in order to make you an 8a member?
I don't have any good excuse for not being an 8a member. It's simply because I am too lazy for these things and that I spent very little time by the computer. But some days ago I registered and now I will do my best to update my page regularly.
Who would you like to interview in this relay and more important why?
I can do it with Dave Graham, if you want. He's funny!
Walking ropes
| Walking ropes - Doing the circus princess move I thought I knew all the tricks for hang-dogging a route. In fact, I had an article ready to be published when I suddenly saw a new brilliant move at Railay. Lousie Lewinschal fell and was hanging in open-air and I thought she was going to have to do 10 pull-up moves in order to get back on the route. Suddenly, however, she put a foot on the rope and "walked" up until she could reach the quickdraw and then the belayer took in the slack. I ran for my camera and this is waht it looks like;) |
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| To get your feet close to the body is the crux | |
| Once you can stand on the foot, you are home safe. Stand up! | If you need to get very high you can walk the rop |
| I have tried it myself and it is easy. In fact, I forwarded the tip to several climbers who where about to do the pull-up move and everyone understood it directely and saved a lot of energy. A mountainering guide actually said that this could be a life saver if you get in a situation where you need to do like 20 metres as you have missed the rappelling anchor etc. If you don't directely reach the quickdraw you have to let go of the rope. The hang-dog article will be publish in February. Anyone with more brilliant tricks? | |
| If you cant reach high enough you have to let go and do it again | |
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Muscle or Hold Focus: Static optimization
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David Lama doing a static lock-off bicep muscle move. |
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Technically, Mentally and Fysically challenged on a knee-drop. |
Most climbers aim for a more dynamic style of climbing. However, most of the World Cup climbers are monsters when it comes to static muscle strength! Why this contradiction? Why and When should you strive for static and dynamic movements respectively? How does this relate to mental focus when you are about to do the crux move? The Idea for this article sprang from the problems that many climber friends have with long, overhanging and pumpy climbs. To them i always say:
- Don't focus on the next hold, but focus on flexing your muscles. You should concentrate on getting your lower hand as close as possible to your chest before reaching for the next hold with your upper hand. It is your arm muscles that will decide if you reach and stick to the next hold.
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Challenges |
Fysical |
Technical |
Mental |
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Static |
High |
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Knee-drop |
High |
High |
High |
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Dynamic |
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Low |
High |
Multiple big wall free solos by Stuffer
Free solo climbing Summer 2005 for Manfred Stuffer
Ottovolante 360 meters, 7a+ - free solo and onsight!
Ascents on the Tofana (Dolomites) and 7c+ free solo!
Manfred Stuffer, mountain guide from Ortisei in the Dolomites (Val Gardena), who has been already known in the past for his difficult climbs (up to 8c+/9a) and solos, did some remarcable ascents and solos this Summer. The climbs he did without rope were probably some of the most spectacular of these times.
But let's start from the beginning. In June, Manfred starts the season with the onsight ascent of "Via attraverso il pesce", 7b+, (the famous "fish") on the Marmolada south face (left pic.).
On July 2nd 2005 Manfred does the big ascents on the Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites (picture):
Stuffer climbs the "Costantini Apollonio", 6c+, the "Costantini Ghedina" and the "Alverà" (1. Arete, 1. Spigolo) running up and down the wall three times in 5 hours and 30 minutes (starting from Rifugio Dibona and back to Rifugio Dibona). He climbs everything free (also the two difficult roofs with slopers on the "Costantini Apollonio") without pulling any gear, without using any harness or rope. The total climbing lenght of the three routes is 2180 meters! The highest grade is 6c+. The last time Stuffer did the three routes before the solos on July 2nd, was about three years ago!
After the three routes on the Tofana di Rozes, on the same day, Manfred drives to his favorite sport climbing crag at Pian Schiavaneis on the Sellagroup, where he does "Ciapa e tira", 7c+, free solo. A good day! He is probably also one of the first Italians soloing 7c+.
Who is now thinking that Stuffer is just crazy, is totally wrong. In fact at the end of July (again at Pian Schiavaneis) he climbs "Linea Mortale", 8b+/8c, (this time with rope...) and on Piz Ciavazes he free climbs (again with rope) the "Via Italia", 8a, on the 2nd try. It is the 4th and fastest redpoint of this 200 meters long old aid climb over a 4-meter-roof.
On August 12th Manfred Stuffer does one of the most spectacular solos ever. He onsights(!) "Ottovolante", 7a+, on the Torre Brunico in the Sellagroup. The route is 11 pitches long and Manfred climbs it totaly free without rope and, for the first time on this level, onsight. On just one move (on bad slopers) Manfred uses a long sling for self belaying (totally 1,5 meters). It is probably the first time ever that somebody solos 7a+ onsight on a 360 meter wall! For Manfred this was "one of the best climbs I've ever done".
Manfred's next highlight is on October 1st: he climbs two routes on the Tofana di Rozes, "Good bye 99" and "Da Pozzo vecchio Pazzo" onsight in the same day. Totally there are 20 pitches up to 7c with mixed natural and bolted protection.
In the nice and warm autumn 2005 of the Dolomites, Stuffer does a few more interesting climbs:
- first free ascent of "Via della Giraffa" (picture) on Sass Ciampac (8 pitches, natural protection and some pitons, 7c+);
- "Via Luciano da Pozzo" onsight on the Cima Scotoni (10 pitches, natural protection and some bolts, loose rock, 7c+)
On October 28th it's time for a solo run again: Manfred first climbs "Via Rossi", 6b, on the first Sellatower (Sellagroup, 6 pitches) and then "Via Bertoldi", 6b, 6 pitches, on the same face in totally one hour. He does everything free, without rope and the second route on sight!
We thank Manfred Stuffer and Flavio Moroder for text and pictures!
Christian Bindhammer
Christian doing Action Directe, 9a
Christian Bindhammer has, during the last ten years, reached at least one World Cup final (Top-8) and climbed a minimum of one 8c every year. Christian is #7 in the 8a all time high ranking. In 2005, he was #5 in Zürich and #6 in Kranj, made two 9a's, married Melaine and had a son (Lucas). In other words, life is looking good for Christian and he is very motivated to continue his progress in 2006. Here's some info on his training.
Have you changed your training over the years? Are there any secrets?
When I started to train regularly for climbing, the main problem was to find a place to climb or how to build a small training wall somewhere that would help to improve your strength. Training wasn't at all as systematic as it is today. It is so different these days when you can find good indoor training gyms in almost any country. Because of this, climbing performances increase faster than before and you need to train very specifically for your aims. But I see a lot of very physically strong climber without aims. To be in a top ranking or to climb the hardest routes, you need to be fully concentrated and train right. To say that these is only one way to train would be impossible. Training is individual for each climber. A good Coach or the Climber him/herself has to analyse his/hers weakness that needs to be improved in order to achieve ones climbing aims. That's how I have handled it and I think that is why I have achieved to stay a top level climber for more than 10 years.
The most important thing is to always stay motivated and to follow your personal aims. In addition to that, I always try to work on my weaknesses. A common mistake among climbers is that they tend to concentrate on climbing what they are best at. I am for the opposite and I believe that you have to train what you are worst at to become a more 'complete climber'. This is especially true if you want to achieve in competitions since these include all types of climbing.
Could you give some details on how you prepare for the next WC season?
First of all, I think it is important that you are motivated to compete before planning the for the season. 9 or 10 World cups with Masters and also National competitions can be a lot and you have to decide which comps you want to participate in. Personally, I need periods of outdoor Rock-climbing in between comp-blocks, because climbing on rock is as important to me as competitions. It is what keeps me motivated to perform within my sport.
What is your best advice to youngsters struggling to do their first 8a?
Take a brake, don't try the route too often. Otherwise you'll get a 'headcrash'. It is better then to train specifically for the route and come back if and when you feel stronger. This is what I did when for some of my hardest sends. You have to feel that you are ready to do the route, that's the key to success.
How have you financed your climbing over the years?
Since a few years back I have a very good sponsor deal with EDELRID. In addition, I do some work with MADROCK, the new powerful Climbing Shoe manufacturer, and together with Andreas, my brother, I run Business called 'Master Range'. In 1999 we started selling climbing holds and for about 3 ½ years now we run the German distribution of 'SintROC' Climbing Walls. It's a great experience and also possibility to use all my 'climbing know how' for designing new walls and projects.
What's your next project and goal?
For this year, I will concentrate on the World Cup Season. I will also try to find time to send two classic and long projects in France and Italy and climb a few multiple pitches in the 'Rätikon'.
Which are the best crags/routes you have ever climbed?
There are so many good crags and routes all over the world, so that's a difficult question. For me, there are always different reasons to why a crag or a route is impressive: Climbing history, landscape, local people etc., they all count. Usually though, I prefer to climb in France and especially around Nice. But the best route I've climbed is probably 'Action Directe' and I would very much like to climb 'Just do it' at Smith Rocks because it's such a great line in an amazing setting.
Will climbing be a part of your life in ten years?
I'm a 100% Climber and although life will change as the years go by, climbing will always be a big part of my life.
Thailand: A climbing guide
Thailand: A climbing guide
by Sam Lightner Jr. from Mountaineers Books
![Thai.jpg]()
This is not only a climbing guide. It's also a travelers guide to Thailand, complete with tips and tricks to make your stay easier both on and off the rocks. On your rest days, you can read about dos and don?ts, funny and scary anecdotes, wildlife, the history of climbing in Thailand, The history of the country, geology etc.
Sam Lightner Jr. has spent much of the last decade and the half on Thai rock, climbing and developing new routes. If anyone can claim to know Thai climbing, it's him. I recommend this guide to anyone who's considering spending a climbing vacation in Thailand.
Dosage III
Dosage III
Featuring: Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Klem Loskot, Tim Emmet, Beth Rodden, Ron Kauk, Tommy Caldwell, Jason Kehl, Ben Moon, James Litz, Melissa Lacasse and more
Summing up Dosage III in one word is easy: MOTIVATION. The footage is, as we become accustomed to, impeccable and the characters the usual suspects. After having watched Chris Sharma pull, swing and scream his way through spectacular problems of the Ozarks, Arkansas and Dave Graham's fingers of steel grasping minuscule crimpers on Swiss gneiss, you really want to get out there and pull! When it comes to the D.W.S. in Vietnam, I'm not sure I'd like to stick my neck out quite that far, but it's always thrilling to watch someone else doing it. Absolutely wild!
What I didn't really get was Ron Kauk's "Return to balance" dose... I guess it's good for your soul in some way, but in a climbing movie I'm looking for action and adrenaline, rather than meditation.
Dosage III also features Beth Rodden climbing "The Optimist" and Jason Kehl, James Litz and company climbing in Utah.
The Lowell brothers and crew have found the right balance between too much and not enough emphasis on the working of the problems/routes and you also get a realistic feeling of how hard these things really are i.e. close-ups of the holds, multiple angles.
I've gotten my dose. Now I suggest you get your...
Merry Christmas and a Happy New 2006
Josune Bereziartu & Rikar Otegi
JOSUNE BEREZIARTU & RIKAR OTEGI Interview & translation: Ignacio Sandoval Burón. All of us know that the fact that a woman put her performances in the same level with the best comrades of the opposite sex in a physical sport is not very frequent? Well, here you have one of those exceptions, with the name of Josune Bereziartu, who is since 1998 beating feminine records and getting closer until reach with Bimbaluna (9a/+), the maximum proposed and confirmed grade.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Besides, we also count in this interview with her partner, Rikar Otegi. He's a man not very lavish in his sends diffusion, but that with no doubt, they are at the first rate. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> - style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell us who are you and something about your partner
Josune in a 8b pitch in Yeah Man
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I was born in Lazkano (Basque Country - ) I've been climbing for 16 years and I started climbing just because I watched a pair of women climbing in a TV program and decided I had to practise that sport. I've been practising countless sports, basically collective ones (football, basketball, handball...), since I was a little girl. The thing which more attracted me from climbing was that feeling, half fear, half disequilibrium, hard to describe and that when you are starting is so difficult to dominate.
Concerning Rikar, the most characteristic feature of his personality is the calm. I am much more visceral and passionate.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: I am Rikar Otegi, was born in Ordizia (Basque Country-), the adjacent village to Josune's, and I'm the Josune's partner. I've been climbing for 20 years. I started climbing big walls and later sports routes almost exclusively.
Josune is quite "pigheaded", if something gets in her mind she doesn't give up till she achieves it. Determination is an important feature of her character as well.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What is the most and the less motivating thing when climbing with your couple?
The best thing is the tune and the reinforcement with the other when both are going to try a common project. The worse is that someone's problems pass into the other and this debilitate you sometimes.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Do you climb full-time or do you have to make other things to reach the end of the months?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> My father died seven years ago. He shared an insurance portfolio with a friend. My mom gave over its
Rikar also in Yeah Man. This time in an 8a pitch Picture: Laurent de Senarcliens
exploitation to Rikar and me. When we are very focused in climbing we have a friend and silent partner who carries all the work. But when we are less centred we have to work and watch over it.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What is your concept for climbing?
It is a similar way of understanding the climbing. We come from a time when we felt very involved in its evolution. Both of us have started climbing in rock routes even when Rikar did some alpinism. The mountain runs in our blood, it is unforgettable, it is our roots. We knew the competition almost at its beginning. The tool which allows us to enjoy climbing is the training, the mean is the climbing gym and the scenario is the rock and its different routes.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">I can suppose each time you visit a climbing spot you are the focus of attention. How do you feel that? Is it oppressive or it serves you an extra of motivation?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: It is something understandable and we have to accept it. When I feel better is when it exist a nice ambient and a special conjunction is created with other climbers, the environment, etc. It gives you an extra of motivation to climb and push yourself a little bit further.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell us something that you would change in climbing and something that you would preserve as a treasure.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: It is not exactly something I would change. I'd wish and support more women to climb with free will and self-confidence, but with respect. Society in general puts us up enough barriers to dodge yet, do not place ourselves more.
I would maintain to the last the respect for the climbing spots, their routes and their environment.
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Josune crimping in another shot of Yeah Man. |
- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Your most notorious sends during the last times have been at on-sight. Is this style what motivates you the most right now?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I was a little bit tired of trying routes. I felt like breathing new air, going to a new climbing spot and if you fancy staying and you feel ease then you climb and if not you leave the place, with no fixed destination, letting the climbs and the circumstances you receive in that moment guide you. That feeling that the on-sight provides you, one only opportunity and that's it. It is very strong and special for me. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">It seems evident with Josune that women can match men in climbing but, do you think you are a special case or that it is just a matter of constancy and motivation? In your special case, Josune, what sacrifices have you paid to be where you are? Any in special with regard to men?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I think that the path I have opened must be useful for other girl climbers to lean and get persuaded of that it is possible to climb really hard routes. That path is there but, that amount of energy, perseverance, motivation, determination and belief in what you are doing has to be put. Summing it up in perseverance and motivation is too simple. I do not feel sacrifices like that, compensations always arrive, bigger or smaller but, if
Josune in Logical Progression, 9a. Yoyama, Japan. Picture: Rikar Otegi.
you know how to look for them they are always attained.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell me how you train.
Basically, we have two periods of form at year; each period is divided in meso-cycles and they are split, at the same time, in four-week cycles. In every meso-cycle we give priority to one aspect, without forgetting the others. We make a lot of series with short recovery times depending on the traverses. We never give up rope climbing, it is to say, in a climbing gym or in real rock when the weather is okay. When the big training periods arrive to the end we basically climb outdoors.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">In the last times you have diversify your practice towards the big walls. Has it been a mirage or it is something which really hooks you up?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: We have been climbing big walls every summer, sometimes harder routes, other times easier ones. Rikar comes from climbing and even opening some semi-sport climbing routes (not totally bolted) in the and I started climbing semi-sport climbing routes in multi-pitch routes, so it's not a new thing for us. It is a kind of escape from the sport climbing, understanding this last one as something more rigid (training, etc.).
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">It seems like David Graham, besides revising the bouldering grade down, has also commented that Bain de Sang is more like 8c+ for him. What's your opinion in both topics?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I know just a little bit about the controversy set by Dave concerning the graduation in the 8C's. I can't give my opinion about this new graduation because I haven't done any of these 8C's. Besides, I do not know
Fuente de Energía, 8b. Vadiello. Picture: Rikar Otegi.
whether he still thinks the same.
Every climber has his/her own point of view about the routes/boulders he/she climbs. If Dave thinks they are that graduation, it is his opinion and it is pretty respectable. Everyone knows graduation is something subjective and personal. They are emotional feelings transmitted by the climbing and that then we translate into numbers and letters.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: This is why it is so important of an opinion tendency concerning the graduation of a route or boulder to exist. In the case of hard routes it is something almost exclusive for very few climbers able to climb them.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Are you going to try with the competition again? What do you like and what you don't like? What would you change in its format?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: Competition is something we have almost completely forgotten. I keep very good memories but the decision of quitting it was very important to me. Looking it from a competitor's point of view, I think hours spent in the isolation zone should be drastically reduced. From the spectator's side, if routes were to be climbed "flash" there would be more rhythm and the spectacle would improve giving it more dynamism.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Please, share with us your best climbing memory and, on the other hand, what is a perfect day for you.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I have had quite lot days with great feelings. A special day was when I sent Honky Tonky, 8c. It was the first feminine 8c in the world and I had this aspect very deep in me. Till then some of us, girl climbers, had sent 8b+, that was the bench mark. Getting rid of all that pressure, set in a great part by the people around me, took me a lot and when I was able to send the route it felt like a great relief and a tremendous satisfaction.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Any day you see you are climbing fluidly and you feel strong. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> If happens that you fire an important route for you, that can be a perfect day. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What are your projects at short, medium and long term?
Right now we are relaxing for a short period. We will be focused by for the beginning of Spring but with no clear objective in mind at the moment. It will depend on how we feel to take one or other destination, to focus on a hard route or on the on-sight, we will see. A long route will be done in the process for sure.
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Josune in Solaris, 8A+. Picture: Rikar Otegi. |
- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What do you think on our web page?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> It's a very dynamic web page. The most interesting thing is the personal cards filled by the climber after sending a route. Classifications, points and all that stuff don't interest me that much. Besides, it seems like if you are having a spectacular growing.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: I like the fact that an opinion forum is created in a democratic way. For that it is decisive the personal decision to write comments only by people with a proper name. I worry that, just like any other news web page through internet, sometimes the source of information is not very reliable and the error which can derive from it, etc. I am also interested, like Josune, very much more in the cards every climber fills than in the classification which derives from it.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar, why being so strong you have chosen to remain anonymous?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> My personality, my character makes me act naturally this way. It is the way I have lived the climbing since I was doing 7a till when I have fired some 9a's. Besides, Josune makes of natural "barrier" with the media. She receives the attention like it is normal. My idea is to share my climbing with those which really appreciate it. Media is a too powerful speaker for my taste although it is impossible when I climb a very hard route that it doesn't show up.
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- style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Is your motivation weakening after all these years? What are you going to do when your body does not give any more?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Yeahh, it weakens, it is something absolutely obvious and normal. The time and the experience acquired teach you to save one's strength and focus more and better the moments and periods of climbing making them to coincide with moments of great motivation. I think there is a rising physical haul, but always when the mind acts as an engine.
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Rikar Otegi now in an 8b pitch in Yeah Man. Picture: Laurent de Senarcliens. |
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I will climb with a level in accordance with the moment; surely I will do a lot of mountain and multi-pitch routes. Nowadays, in Summer, it is like an escape but in the future it will be what motivate me the most.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A dream?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: have fun. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikard: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Be able to keep on enjoying climbing. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A book?
J: "A moveable feast" Ernest Hemingway. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Alfred Hitchcock's Biography. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A film?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A classic one, "Breakfast with diamonds" (Katherine Hepburn as the protagonist).
R: "Blade Runner". style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Music?
J: "Anari" (the last album from this Basque's composer: "Zebra"). style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R:
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Politics?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Own benefit. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Mistrust.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Religion?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Sometimes. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Not much. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Half-full or half-empty?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: I have it and I have to see it half-full, although sometimes my character tends to see it half-empty.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Half-full.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Routes or boulder?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A moment for each one. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Passion for the routes, amusement in the boulders. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rice and salad or big mac with fries?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Big salad with rice and potatoes.
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Josune in company... |
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Rice and salad. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A sports car or a van?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A van. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: A sports car. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">8a.nu or gossip magazines?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 8a.nu. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 8a.nu. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Love or sex?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Sex with love. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Love with sex. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Science or beliefs?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Beliefs and science. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Science.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Aerobic or yoga?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Yoga, no doubt.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Yoga. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Beach or mountain?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Mountain.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Mountain.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Creatine or chorizo?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham). style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Neither one, nor the other.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Play station or electro-stimulation?
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Nowadays we can't leave without electronics. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Play station. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Born date:
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 19-01-72
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 15-12-67
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Height:
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Josune in Bimabaluna, 9a/+. Picture: Rikar Otegi. |
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 1, 74 cm.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 1, 78 cm.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Weight:
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 53 kg.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 60 kg.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Sponsors:
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: BEAL, PRANA, PETZL, TENAYA, EUSKALTEL, KIROLGI.
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: PETZL, BEAL and TENAYA give me some stuff.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">JOSUNE'S Scorecard created and administrated by 8a:
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Red point: FETUCCINI, 8b+ (1996) El Convento HONKY TONKY, 8c (1998) Araotz HONKY MIX, 8c+ (2000) Araotz NOIA, 8C+ (2001) Andonno, Italia BAIN DE SANG, 9a (2002), St.Loup LOGICAL PROGRESION, 9a (2004) Yo-Yama BIMBALUNA, 9a+ (2005) St.Loup |
On-sight: NASCA, 8a+/b (2001). STEROID PERFORMANCE, 8b (2004) Hourai, Japan. FUENTE DE ENERGIA, 8b (2005), Vadiello. LA RESERVE, 8b (2005) St.Leger du Ventoux. |
: BEREZI, 8A, (2000) ATOMIC PLAYBOY, 8A+ (2002) LA TRAVESIA DE BALZOLA, 8C (Traverse, 2002) Baltzola. SOLARIS, 8A+ (2003), Baltzola (Basque Country ? ) E LA NAVE VA, 8C (Traverse, 2003) Lindental, Switzerland. |
Big walls: EL PILAR DEL CANTABRICO, (550 metres, 8a+ max.) El Naranjo de Bulnes. YEAH MAN, (300 metros, 8B+ máx.) Switzerland. |
Interview & transalation: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.