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TRAVEL & CRAGS

Thursday, 26 July

New website and topo for Maltatal in Austria

Gerhard Schaar, Rote Wand © Rainer Eder
Stefan Köchel, Imperator © Sam Strauss
Gerhard Schaar, Hochsteg © Rainer Eder
Paul Robinson, The Source © Stefan Köchel

New website and topo for Maltatal in Austria

The world famous bouldering and sport climbing spot Maltatal, in the south of Austria, has a great website now. Climbing guidebook author and main developer Gerhard Schaar has put up www.maltatal.rocks in order to inform about the whole area. The website is available in all major languages!
The Maltatal belongs to THE main Austrian climbing areas, offering about 400 boulders in four areas, 300 sport climbs, about 100 multi pitches and also amazing alpine lines.

The first guidebook about the area in 2015 was very successful and has sold out quickly. So Gerhard will publish a new guidebook this fall which will be available in the Vertical Life App as well. 
The website is part of a tourism initiative which also involves a Facebook site (https://www.facebook.com/Maltatal.rocks) and an Instagram account (https://www.instagram.com/maltatal.rocks) #maltatalrocks.


8a.nu: Gerhard, the first Maltatal guidebook has long sold out, when will we see the new edition with all the new routes and boulders?

Well, thanks first of all to the climbing community for appreciating our beautiful valley and the climbing here. I as the author and Panico as the publisher were really pleased to realize, how huge the demand for the Maltatal guidebook was. We did not expect that much of a demand and were somehow puzzled the guidebook sold out within 18 months. We wanted to wait a bit now, before we upgrade the 1st edition with all the new stuff. The guidebook should be on the market around October I guess.


8a.nu: So what can we expect?

The main thing about the new edition is the new bouldering area “Bienenlehrpfad”, with more than 200 new problems from 5a to 8b. In addition to that there are about 50 new sport climbs and a couple of easier multi pitches. Finally there will also be new areas in the guidebook a bit outside of the Maltatal, which make about 150 new sport climbs. We have a beautiful lake just 20 minutes away, the Millstätter See, with two nice areas. Plus another gneiss area located at a beautiful spot called Danielsberg. So the new guidebook will be substantially thicker!


8a.nu: What about the Maltatal.rocks platform? What is that all about?

This platform is simply about the touristic development of the climbing sport in our region. Many people are very happy about the development and more climbers visiting our beautiful valley. Only by giving it a touristic dimension in form of all these channels (Facebook, Instagram, web, guidebook), giving it an economical value, can the existing areas be protected and climbing as a whole progress here. We would like to invite the climbing community to use the platform so the sport finally gets the attention it deserves by the local government and the tourism board. We are 100% private and rely on climbers staying at our partner hotels and other local partners such as restaurants and small regional shops to be supported.

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TRAVEL & CRAGS

Thursday, 26 July

New website and topo for Maltatal in Austria

Gerhard Schaar, Rote Wand © Rainer Eder
Stefan Köchel, Imperator © Sam Strauss
Gerhard Schaar, Hochsteg © Rainer Eder
Paul Robinson, The Source © Stefan Köchel

New website and topo for Maltatal in Austria

The world famous bouldering and sport climbing spot Maltatal, in the south of Austria, has a great website now. Climbing guidebook author and main developer Gerhard Schaar has put up www.maltatal.rocks in order to inform about the whole area. The website is available in all major languages!
The Maltatal belongs to THE main Austrian climbing areas, offering about 400 boulders in four areas, 300 sport climbs, about 100 multi pitches and also amazing alpine lines.

The first guidebook about the area in 2015 was very successful and has sold out quickly. So Gerhard will publish a new guidebook this fall which will be available in the Vertical Life App as well. 
The website is part of a tourism initiative which also involves a Facebook site (https://www.facebook.com/Maltatal.rocks) and an Instagram account (https://www.instagram.com/maltatal.rocks) #maltatalrocks.


8a.nu: Gerhard, the first Maltatal guidebook has long sold out, when will we see the new edition with all the new routes and boulders?

Well, thanks first of all to the climbing community for appreciating our beautiful valley and the climbing here. I as the author and Panico as the publisher were really pleased to realize, how huge the demand for the Maltatal guidebook was. We did not expect that much of a demand and were somehow puzzled the guidebook sold out within 18 months. We wanted to wait a bit now, before we upgrade the 1st edition with all the new stuff. The guidebook should be on the market around October I guess.


8a.nu: So what can we expect?

The main thing about the new edition is the new bouldering area “Bienenlehrpfad”, with more than 200 new problems from 5a to 8b. In addition to that there are about 50 new sport climbs and a couple of easier multi pitches. Finally there will also be new areas in the guidebook a bit outside of the Maltatal, which make about 150 new sport climbs. We have a beautiful lake just 20 minutes away, the Millstätter See, with two nice areas. Plus another gneiss area located at a beautiful spot called Danielsberg. So the new guidebook will be substantially thicker!


8a.nu: What about the Maltatal.rocks platform? What is that all about?

This platform is simply about the touristic development of the climbing sport in our region. Many people are very happy about the development and more climbers visiting our beautiful valley. Only by giving it a touristic dimension in form of all these channels (Facebook, Instagram, web, guidebook), giving it an economical value, can the existing areas be protected and climbing as a whole progress here. We would like to invite the climbing community to use the platform so the sport finally gets the attention it deserves by the local government and the tourism board. We are 100% private and rely on climbers staying at our partner hotels and other local partners such as restaurants and small regional shops to be supported.

Read more

TRAINING

Friday, 30 March

Injury Prevention

Living and working in Laos

Growth plate fracture



Injury Prevention in Rock Climbing and Bouldering

By Volker and Isabelle Schöffl – Sportsmedicine Bamberg
Isabelle and Volker Schöffl are both active climbers and medical doctors. Both have done first ascents up to french 8b, many of them in Laos and Thailand.They are team physicians to the German Climbing team and Volker is a member of the MedCom IFSC and author of „One move too many“. They have done 100+ scientific papers on climbing medicine and are teaching world wide on this topic. They are right now working for an aid organization as doctors in Laos where they also were among the pioneers for Thakhek
Further information: www.sportsmedicine.rocks

With the increase in popularity and level in all climbing disciplines the topic of injury prevention becomes even more important. Also, the inclusion of climbing into the Olympic program of Tokyo will add to a further increase in training load and younger climbers peaking early in their climbing level. As Medical doctors, the authors adhere to evidence based medicine when available. This means that we rely on scientific data when determining the correct diagnosis and recommending treatment. In this article, we want to present data that has been published in scientific journals. It may very well be that a person on its own has not followed any of the recommendations we will present and still has not had any of the presented injuries, or he or she may have followed all the recommendations stated here and still have injured him- or herself. However, bear in mind that there is very little scientific research being conducted on injury prevention in sports overall and even less so in sports climbing.

Let´s look at this in two aspects: Prevention of acute trauma (e.g. injuries related to a fall) and prevention of overstrain.

Trauma: Acute trauma in climbing and bouldering is mostly happening to the foot and leg in consequence of a fall. With more modern climbing techniques, e.g. heel hooking new injuries advanced also. The following preventive matters are based on medical evidence:

• spotters and crash pads in bouldering (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012)
• closed intersections of mats in indoor climbing (V. Schöffl & Schlegel, 2000) (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012; V. R. Schöffl et al., 2013)
• dynamic belay technique (adolescents weight related!) (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016, Schöffl et al. 2018)
• reasonable shoe size in climbing shoes (Buda et al., 2013; Killian et al., 1998; A. B. Morrison & Schöffl, 2007; V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl & Küpper, 2013; V. Schöffl et al., 2012; V. Schöffl & Winkelmann, 1999c; van der Putten & Snijder, 2001)
• proper training on belay techniques (DAV, 2012, 2014) (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012; V. R. Schöffl et al., 2013)
• double check – partner check of knot, harness and belay device (DAV, 2012) (Robertson, 2012; V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012; V. R. Schöffl et al., 2013)
• use of a helmet in alpine (traditional) climbing (Nelson & McKenzie, 2009; V. Schöffl et al., 2012; V. Schöffl et al., 2010)
• general recommendations of route setting in first ascents (positioning of first bolts, top anchor chains at sport climbs, stainless steel bolts, etc.) (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016)
• use of equipment with UIAA safety label (DAV, 2014; V. R. Schöffl et al., 2013) • warm up and cool down (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012)
• ankle joint stabilising and posture training (Schweizer 2005)
• avoidance of muscular imbalance (Förster, Schöffl et al. 2008)
• fall training for boulderers (Schweizer, Bircher, Kaelin, & Ochsner, 2005) (V. R. Schöffl et al., 2013)
• no preventive finger taping (no injury present) (Woollings, McKay, Kang, et al., 2015)

In addition to the listed evidence based factors we think that posture training, core stability, equilibrium training and in certain medical conditions additional taping will help to prevent acute trauma.



Prevention of overstrain

Most of the acute climbing injuries we see in our climbing medical center are based on overstrain. This is based on the fact that many “standard” climbing injuries receive treatment in a medical unit close to the injury site, while we see many specific climbing injuries secondarily for expert advice. Overstrain injuries are mostly a result of performing a strenuous move or applying repetitive trauma on a certain body part (e.g. epiphyseal growth plate fractures) and are mostly on the upper extremity, mainly the hand and fingers. Medical science gives evidence for the following preventive matters:

• no preventive finger taping (if no injury is present) (Woollings, McKay, Kang, et al., 2015)
• warm up and cool down (V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; V. Schöffl et al., 2012)
• finger warm up reduces risk of pulley ruptures (Schweizer A. 2001)
• more static moves than dynamic moves (Schöffl et al. 2016)
• reduced amount of high finger intensive bouldering (V. Schöffl & Schlegel, 2004)(I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2015)
• avoidance of a constant use of the crimp grip position (Hochholzer & Schöffl, 2012; A. Morrison & Schöffl, 2012; I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2017)

for Adolescents:

• neglect of campus board use in young climbers before closure of growth plates (A. Morrison & Schöffl, 2012)(Hochholzer & Schöffl, 2012; I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2015, Hofmann, Schöffl et al. 2018)
• no training with additional weight (Hochholzer & Schöffl, 2012)
• reduced amount of high finger intensive bouldering (V. Schöffl & Schlegel, 2004)(I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2015)
• avoidance of a constant use of the crimp grip position (Hochholzer & Schöffl, 2012; A. Morrison & Schöffl, 2012; I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2017)
• gender and biological age related training (Hochholzer & Schöffl, 2012, 2013; A. B. Morrison & Schöffl, 2007; I. Schöffl & Schöffl, 2015; V. Schöffl, Hochholzer, et al., 2016; Woollings, McKay, Kang, et al., 2015)



The sports medical surveillance of young climbers must be improved and should be standardized. Injuries may have long term consequences (e.g. epiphyseal fractures) and require a special awareness. With the participation of climbing in the Olympic Games in 2020, this will be even more important, as training hours, load and amount will further increase. Further scientific evaluation of certain training aspects e.g. shoulder stability, core strength, overall muscular status, muscular imbalances, rehab techniques (black roll, fascial massages, yoga, acupuncture ring etc.) are necessary. Nevertheless, we need to point out that some ideas or devices sold in the internet, which claim to help reduce the risk of injuries still lack scientific evidence. While some companies provide scientific proof e.g. Vertics for their products others don’t. We believe it should be a responsibility of every company to undertake scientific studies in order to provide proof of their claims regarding injury prevention.
www.sportsmedicine.rocks

Recommended literature
Schöffl V, Lutter C, Woollings K, Schöffl I (2018) “Kids in Adventure and Extreme Sports: Too Risky?” Rock Climbing
Research in Sports Medicine (in press)
Schöffl V, Morrison A, Schöffl I, Küpper T (2012)
The epidemiology of injury in mountaineering, rock and ice climbing Med Sport Sci 58, 17-43 (Epub Jul 18. 2012)
Schöffl V, Hochholzer T, Lightner S (2016)
One move too many 3rd, revised edition
Sharp End Publishing, Boulder, CO, USA

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INTERVIEWS

Saturday, 30 September

The Rise of Women-Only Climbing Events

More and more females are pushing the limits of our sport not only athletically but also professionally. Now there are women route setters, women managing climbing gyms, and women only climbing events put on by and for women! We think such equality is a cause for celebration and have interviewed a top female route setter from the US, Sarah Filler, about her thoughts on the topic.


Q: How many women only events have you participated in?
A: I’ve participated in two women-only events. The first being the Woman Up comp at Touchstone in San Francisco and the second being the She Sets Setters Showdown at L’escalade in Kentucky.

Q: How many years have you been climbing and / or working in the industry?
A:  I’ve been climbing since March of 2006 and working in the climbing industry as a setter for 10 years.

Q: What effect, if any, do you think these events are having on the future of women in our sport?
A: These events help promote and highlight females working hard to achieve the levels of success they have in the climbing industry. By having a stage for women to stand on and show off their accomplishments, other females will be inspired and have the confidence to chase their goals not only within the sport, but also within their own lives.

Q: Any areas for growth in the success of these events?
A: One area where there can be growth is through women gaining more experience by organizing these events. Because women are still fighting for their place in the climbing industry, many of us have not yet gained the experience of organizing as large-scale events as these have turned out to be.

Q: Positivity that has come because of the events?
A: For me, getting the chance to work with all female setters has been amazing. It’s a much easier environment to work in because it doesn’t feel like a competition between setters where egos can sometimes get in the way; we’re working more as a team that understands that the end product isn’t just for us individually. I also think it’s providing a lot of positive feedback to women by showing them that they’re capable of doing anything a male can do in the climbing industry by creating a more open and welcoming environment that maybe was more intimidating to break into because it currently is so male dominated.

Q: Do you feel like climbing has helped you in any of the following ways: come to terms with femininity, sexuality, give confidence, come of age, become more aware of health, make friends, feel a stable community connection, etc?
A: YES. I started climbing when I was 13 so a lot of what I’ve learned in life and about myself has come from climbing and the community. Climbing and working as a routesetter in the climbing industry for a long time has given me so much confidence in myself and my ability to succeed. I wouldn’t be where I am today without having the confidence to push myself in routesetting. I also have made a lot of close climbing friends who are very supportive and psyched to see everyone around them succeed in climbing. Also more recently I’ve made a lot more female climbing/setting friends from these events, which is so helpful and exciting.

Q: Anything else to add?
A: Consideration/ Style: Thinking about it, I think it’s easier to set for an all woman comp because I can worry less about anyone trying to skip hold because they’re way too tall, everyone is a little closer to my height. I don’t think my style changes much either. I think women are just as capable of climbing the boulders that I would normally set so they don’t need to be modified just because only females are climbing on them.

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INTERVIEWS

Monday, 18 September

Luis Rodriguez Martin in regards to training with Patxi Usobiaga

The other day on 8a we posted a video of Patxi Usobiaga, Klemen Becan and Luis Rodriguez Martin climbing in Ceuse. We’ve interviewed Luis (previously he has been mentioned on 8a for his first 9a redpoint) about his training over the past three years with Patxi.

1.      What has three years of training with Patxi taught you?

The most important things I’ve learned from training with Patxi have been to give myself short and long term objectives, always have a goal and fight to obtain all of these! This is the way I keep my motivation constant and enjoy the journey.

2.      In the video you mention that you will try Biographie in the future. Why Biographie?

When I started my obsession with climbing I couldn’t stop watching videos of routes all around the world, and Biographie is the route that stuck with me the most. I must have watched Patxi’s video more than 100 times and 4 years later there I was in Ceuse belaying him on the route, 13 years after he had done it, I would have never thought! It’s the most aesthetic line I’ve ever seen… everything from its color, its holds, its movement. If there ever was a perfect route, it’s got to be Biographie. I didn’t try it this time but it left me wanting to.

3.      What motivates you more, outside climbing or training?

Normally I train 4 days a week combined with two days of outside climbing since I can’t get outside more because of my job. But even if I had more time I think I would train because I love to suffer! Thanks to Patxi, I am always able to organize my training so that I’m in good shape for my trips. But after so many days of outside climbing on trips, I feel like I have to get back home and train so that I can come back in better shape! It’s a cycle that always repeats itself… you always want just a little more.

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O roku 2016 sa mnohí vyjadrovali ako o najhoršom vôbec a boli radi, keď sa konečne skončil. Teraz v marci máme už takmer tretinu nového roka za sebou a na starý sa už skoro zabudlo, no ja by som vám ho rád pripomenul, lebo čo sa lezenia týka, nedá sa povedať, že by bol neúspešným. Na skalkách a bouldroch sa chalanom aj babám darilo, big-wallová scéna takisto zažila slovenský frontálny útok a tak si aspoň v krátkosti môžeme zhrnúť, kto a ako sa zapísal do lezeckých kroník.

Ešte pred začatím tohto sumára by som sa v krátkosti chcel ospravedlniť za jeho neskoré vydanie. Myšlienka naň bola v mojej pamäti uložená dlho, no pretaviť ju do reálnych kontúr zabralo viac času, ako som predpokladal. Veta "lepšie neskoro ako nikdy" je mnohokrát považovaná za výhovorku, no rád by som si myslel, že takéto prelezy si človek môže vážiť, aj keď sa o nich dozvie s odstupom času. Ale dosť vykecávania, poďme na vec!

Sezóna s lanom priniesla zvyčné mená slovenského lezenia, ktoré už väčšina z nás poznať bude. Kubo Kováčik je už dlhoročným ťahačom a tento rok tomu nebolo inak. Počas výjazdu do Siurany sa mu podarilo dorovnať svoje maximum prelezom Pati noso 8c+, pridal takisto jedno 8c a po jednom sa mu podarilo preliezť v Rodellari a Ospe. Okrem toho sa činil aj na domácich skalkách, predovšetkých na Súľove, a zapísal si viacero hodnotných ciest do 8b+. Ďalším úspešným, ktorého netreba predstavovať, je Pišta Bednár. Po Erazme v Slovinsku si stále drží formu, ktorá sa paradoxne prejavila hlavne v boulderingu, no úspešný bol aj s lanom - v Rodellari si zapísal prelez Minas Tirith 8c+.

Kubo Kováčik v Pati noso 8c+, najťažšej ceste jeho minuloročnej sezóny

Výkony na sloveských skalkách boli v réžii viacerých borcov. Medzi nimi sa najťažším výkonom blysli Kmeťo Cáder a Tomáš Plevko prelezom Kobry 10+/11- vo Višňovom. Pre oboch chalanov je Višňové domovskou oblasťou a tak bolo zapísanie si cesty len otázkou času. Napriek tomu, že vekový rozdiel medzi nimi je značný, obom v poslednej dobe forma stúpa raketovým tempom. Okrem Kmeťa a Tomáša sa o ťažké prelezy okolo 10+ (8b+) postarali viacerí borci, menovite Robo Luby, Hrubo, Vilo Ferčák, Juro Klimo a Rišo Gelle. Z mládežníkov treba spomenúť dvoch pätnásťročných borcov: Pala Kratochvíla, ktorý si na svoje konto pripísal dve cesty 8b (10), Massih attack vo Flatangeri a Mrtvaški ples v Ospe, a Peťa Kurica a jeho prelez Siwie 8b na Súľove. Paráda chalani!

Kmeťo Cáder a Tomáš Plevko v Kobre 10+/11- vo Višňovom

Za nežnú polovicu lanovej scény treba jednoznačne spomenúť Vandu Michalkovú, ktorá je už v tejto chvíli jedinou ženou na Slovensku, ktorá preliezla 8c. Ešte minulý rok bolo však jej maximum 8b/b+, ktoré si zaistila prelezom cesty Botanics v španielskom Ventanas del Mascún. Okrem toho si na konto pripísala aj cestu Lahko Noč Irena 8b. Vanda sa popri minuloročnom lezení dostávala aj z nepríjemných zranení lakťov a je super vidieť, že je späť v plnej forme!

Vanda Michalková a El delfin 7c v oblasti Ventanas del Mascún. Vanda si tu posunula minuloročné maximum prelezom cesty Botanics 8b/b+. (c) Anka Michalková

Mám pocit, že ešte pred pár rokmi bol bouldering považovaný za disciplínu outsiderskú a na jej prívržencov sa pozeralo s nedôverou. Prečo by sa niekto váľal v prachu na matraci, keď má toť za rohom pekné odistené cesty? Toto už v dnešnej dobe ale určite neplatí a dokazuje to aj minuloročná sezóna. V kategórii najťažší prelez jednoznačne dominuje už somínaný Pišta Bednár. Po prezretí jeho zápiskov z minulého roka človek zistí, že obsadil prvé tri miesta: ako prvý Slovák preliezol 8B+, From Shallow Waters to Riverbed v Magic Woode, v tej istej oblasti pridal aj Riders on the Storm 8B a na konte má viacero hodnotných zahraničných prelezov obtiažností 8A+ a 8A. Stálicou na bouldrovej scéne je Tomaso Greksák a tento rok tomu nebolo inak. Počas svojich potúlkoch svetom preliezol štyri bouldre 8A+, dva v Nórsku a dva v Amerike. Jedným z nich bola aj ikonická a ťažko vydretá Mandala 8A+ v Bishope.

Pišta Bednár si počas svojho pôsobenia vo Švajčiarsku zapísal okrem prelezu From Shallow Waters to Riverbed 8B+ aj mnoho ďalších hodnotných bouldrov. Jedným z nich je lištová siláčina Sofa Surfer 8A+.

Legendárny boulder Mandala 8A+ v podaní Tomasa Greksáka

Stano Klimo, konvertovaný lanový lezec a po novom aj bouldrista konvertovaný na beh, sa ešte minulého roku poriadne činil. V Zillertali preliezol Sundance SD 8A+, zapísal si aj viacero 8A a 8A/A+ na Slovensku aj v zahraničí a má na svedomí aj najťažší prelez na slovenských kameňoch, Mlynček na mäso 8A+ na Končitej. Kmeťo Cáder sa ako univerzálny lezec-fanatik venuje aj boulderingu a takisto sa vyskytol na Končitej. Priniesol si odtiaľ skalpy dvoch 8Ačiek, Ozembucha a Ilúzie, ktorú minulý rok po dlhšom skúšaní konečne preliezol aj Oli Vysloužil. Žilinský silák Peťo Gašiak si na neďalekej Pavúčej skale zvýšil osobné maximum prelezom Jarnej únavy SD 8A. Posledným z chalanov, ktorých spomeniem, je mladý reprezetant Palino Kratochvíl, ktorý si takisto posunul osobné maximum na 8A prelezom Smith's venner v nórskom Briksdalene.

Mladý reprezentant Palino Kratochvíl mal úspešný výjazd do Nórska, počas ktorého dosiahol osobné maximum 8A. (c) Tomaso Greksák

Najúspešnejšou bouldristkou bola Katka Cáderová, ktorá úspešne pokračuje v tatkových šľapajách. V poľskej Borezete vyliezla dva bouldre obtiažnosti 7B, Troche szaleństva a Friendship

Bouldering na poľskej Borzete priniesol Kačene Cáderovej ovocie v podobe dvoch 7B

Poslednou kategóriou ostáva big-wallové a horské lezenie. Správy o oboch prelezoch obleteli slovenské weby aj facebook, no určite sa ich oplatí spomenúť ešte raz. Trojica Vlado "Kazo" Linek. Maťo Krasňanský a Jožo Krištoffy sa postarala o historický výkon, najťažší prelez v oblasti Cochamo v Patagónii, ich novou cestou El Condor Pasa 10. Jožo bol úspešný aj na tatranskom fronte. Na Jastrabke vyliezol vlastnú cestu Korona 11-.

Jožo Krištoffy v najťažšej 14. dĺžke cesty El Condor Pasa klasifikácie 10 v patagónskom Cochame. (c) Kazo Linek

Počasie sa nám konečne celkom umúdrilo, po snehu už v nižších polohách nie je ani pamiatky a na lezenie vonku už sa nejaký ten týždeň myslieť dá. Dúfam teda, že aj tento neskorý článok prinesie kúsok motivácie potrebnej k vyškriabaniu sa pod skalu a vyskúšaniu toho projektu, na ktorý sa už tak dlho pozeráš, či už je za 7 alebo 10.

Lezeniu zdar!

Aďo

TRAINING

Thursday, 16 March

Skalná sezóna 2016

O roku 2016 sa mnohí vyjadrovali ako o najhoršom vôbec a boli radi, keď sa konečne skončil. Teraz v marci máme už takmer tretinu nového roka za sebou a na starý sa už skoro zabudlo, no ja by som vám ho rád pripomenul, lebo čo sa lezenia týka, nedá sa povedať, že by bol neúspešným. Na skalkách a bouldroch sa chalanom aj babám darilo, big-wallová scéna takisto zažila slovenský frontálny útok a tak si aspoň v krátkosti môžeme zhrnúť, kto a ako sa zapísal do lezeckých kroník.

Ešte pred začatím tohto sumára by som sa v krátkosti chcel ospravedlniť za jeho neskoré vydanie. Myšlienka naň bola v mojej pamäti uložená dlho, no pretaviť ju do reálnych kontúr zabralo viac času, ako som predpokladal. Veta "lepšie neskoro ako nikdy" je mnohokrát považovaná za výhovorku, no rád by som si myslel, že takéto prelezy si človek môže vážiť, aj keď sa o nich dozvie s odstupom času. Ale dosť vykecávania, poďme na vec!

Sezóna s lanom priniesla zvyčné mená slovenského lezenia, ktoré už väčšina z nás poznať bude. Kubo Kováčik je už dlhoročným ťahačom a tento rok tomu nebolo inak. Počas výjazdu do Siurany sa mu podarilo dorovnať svoje maximum prelezom Pati noso 8c+, pridal takisto jedno 8c a po jednom sa mu podarilo preliezť v Rodellari a Ospe. Okrem toho sa činil aj na domácich skalkách, predovšetkých na Súľove, a zapísal si viacero hodnotných ciest do 8b+. Ďalším úspešným, ktorého netreba predstavovať, je Pišta Bednár. Po Erazme v Slovinsku si stále drží formu, ktorá sa paradoxne prejavila hlavne v boulderingu, no úspešný bol aj s lanom - v Rodellari si zapísal prelez Minas Tirith 8c+.

Kubo Kováčik v Pati noso 8c+, najťažšej ceste jeho minuloročnej sezóny

Výkony na sloveských skalkách boli v réžii viacerých borcov. Medzi nimi sa najťažším výkonom blysli Kmeťo Cáder a Tomáš Plevko prelezom Kobry 10+/11- vo Višňovom. Pre oboch chalanov je Višňové domovskou oblasťou a tak bolo zapísanie si cesty len otázkou času. Napriek tomu, že vekový rozdiel medzi nimi je značný, obom v poslednej dobe forma stúpa raketovým tempom. Okrem Kmeťa a Tomáša sa o ťažké prelezy okolo 10+ (8b+) postarali viacerí borci, menovite Robo Luby, Hrubo, Vilo Ferčák, Juro Klimo a Rišo Gelle. Z mládežníkov treba spomenúť dvoch pätnásťročných borcov: Pala Kratochvíla, ktorý si na svoje konto pripísal dve cesty 8b (10), Massih attack vo Flatangeri a Mrtvaški ples v Ospe, a Peťa Kurica a jeho prelez Siwie 8b na Súľove. Paráda chalani!

Kmeťo Cáder a Tomáš Plevko v Kobre 10+/11- vo Višňovom

Za nežnú polovicu lanovej scény treba jednoznačne spomenúť Vandu Michalkovú, ktorá je už v tejto chvíli jedinou ženou na Slovensku, ktorá preliezla 8c. Ešte minulý rok bolo však jej maximum 8b/b+, ktoré si zaistila prelezom cesty Botanics v španielskom Ventanas del Mascún. Okrem toho si na konto pripísala aj cestu Lahko Noč Irena 8b. Vanda sa popri minuloročnom lezení dostávala aj z nepríjemných zranení lakťov a je super vidieť, že je späť v plnej forme!

Vanda Michalková a El delfin 7c v oblasti Ventanas del Mascún. Vanda si tu posunula minuloročné maximum prelezom cesty Botanics 8b/b+. (c) Anka Michalková

Mám pocit, že ešte pred pár rokmi bol bouldering považovaný za disciplínu outsiderskú a na jej prívržencov sa pozeralo s nedôverou. Prečo by sa niekto váľal v prachu na matraci, keď má toť za rohom pekné odistené cesty? Toto už v dnešnej dobe ale určite neplatí a dokazuje to aj minuloročná sezóna. V kategórii najťažší prelez jednoznačne dominuje už somínaný Pišta Bednár. Po prezretí jeho zápiskov z minulého roka človek zistí, že obsadil prvé tri miesta: ako prvý Slovák preliezol 8B+, From Shallow Waters to Riverbed v Magic Woode, v tej istej oblasti pridal aj Riders on the Storm 8B a na konte má viacero hodnotných zahraničných prelezov obtiažností 8A+ a 8A. Stálicou na bouldrovej scéne je Tomaso Greksák a tento rok tomu nebolo inak. Počas svojich potúlkoch svetom preliezol štyri bouldre 8A+, dva v Nórsku a dva v Amerike. Jedným z nich bola aj ikonická a ťažko vydretá Mandala 8A+ v Bishope.

Pišta Bednár si počas svojho pôsobenia vo Švajčiarsku zapísal okrem prelezu From Shallow Waters to Riverbed 8B+ aj mnoho ďalších hodnotných bouldrov. Jedným z nich je lištová siláčina Sofa Surfer 8A+.

Legendárny boulder Mandala 8A+ v podaní Tomasa Greksáka

Stano Klimo, konvertovaný lanový lezec a po novom aj bouldrista konvertovaný na beh, sa ešte minulého roku poriadne činil. V Zillertali preliezol Sundance SD 8A+, zapísal si aj viacero 8A a 8A/A+ na Slovensku aj v zahraničí a má na svedomí aj najťažší prelez na slovenských kameňoch, Mlynček na mäso 8A+ na Končitej. Kmeťo Cáder sa ako univerzálny lezec-fanatik venuje aj boulderingu a takisto sa vyskytol na Končitej. Priniesol si odtiaľ skalpy dvoch 8Ačiek, Ozembucha a Ilúzie, ktorú minulý rok po dlhšom skúšaní konečne preliezol aj Oli Vysloužil. Žilinský silák Peťo Gašiak si na neďalekej Pavúčej skale zvýšil osobné maximum prelezom Jarnej únavy SD 8A. Posledným z chalanov, ktorých spomeniem, je mladý reprezetant Palino Kratochvíl, ktorý si takisto posunul osobné maximum na 8A prelezom Smith's venner v nórskom Briksdalene.

Mladý reprezentant Palino Kratochvíl mal úspešný výjazd do Nórska, počas ktorého dosiahol osobné maximum 8A. (c) Tomaso Greksák

Najúspešnejšou bouldristkou bola Katka Cáderová, ktorá úspešne pokračuje v tatkových šľapajách. V poľskej Borezete vyliezla dva bouldre obtiažnosti 7B, Troche szaleństva a Friendship

Bouldering na poľskej Borzete priniesol Kačene Cáderovej ovocie v podobe dvoch 7B

Poslednou kategóriou ostáva big-wallové a horské lezenie. Správy o oboch prelezoch obleteli slovenské weby aj facebook, no určite sa ich oplatí spomenúť ešte raz. Trojica Vlado "Kazo" Linek. Maťo Krasňanský a Jožo Krištoffy sa postarala o historický výkon, najťažší prelez v oblasti Cochamo v Patagónii, ich novou cestou El Condor Pasa 10. Jožo bol úspešný aj na tatranskom fronte. Na Jastrabke vyliezol vlastnú cestu Korona 11-.

Jožo Krištoffy v najťažšej 14. dĺžke cesty El Condor Pasa klasifikácie 10 v patagónskom Cochame. (c) Kazo Linek

Počasie sa nám konečne celkom umúdrilo, po snehu už v nižších polohách nie je ani pamiatky a na lezenie vonku už sa nejaký ten týždeň myslieť dá. Dúfam teda, že aj tento neskorý článok prinesie kúsok motivácie potrebnej k vyškriabaniu sa pod skalu a vyskúšaniu toho projektu, na ktorý sa už tak dlho pozeráš, či už je za 7 alebo 10.

Lezeniu zdar!

Aďo

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INTERVIEWS

Tuesday, 22 November

Luis Rodríguez Martín encandena su primer 9a

Luis Rodríguez Martín, un escalador malagueño que apenas lleva seis años con el deporte, se hace con su primer 9a, Mandanga Total. La vía se encentra en Villanueva del Rosario, en la famosa cueva de Chilam Balam. Hoy nos cuenta un poco sobre sí mismo, sobre la vía y sus planes para el futuro. “Empecé a escalar a finales de 2010 y desde los comienzos no he pensado en otra cosa que en escalar, y como poder ir evolucionando. Es como un juego en el que tienes muchas maneras de evolucionar (entrenamiento, alimentación, relajación, estrategia, control mental y una infinidad de campos en los que mejorar), ¡pero ante todo siempre disfrutando de cada paso! Mi sitio favorito por ahora es Red River Gorge. ¡Creo que allí escalé las mejores vías de mi vida! La vía se llama Mandanga Total. Es una conexión entre Mandanga 8c/+ y un 8b+ y el paso más duro es el de conexión entre ambas. La primera ascensión corrió a cuenta de Carlos Jiménez proponiéndola de 8c+/9a, pero tras la rotura de varios cantos, Seb Bouin (primer repetidor) propuso 9a. Después la repetirían Edu Marin y Cedric lachat confirmando el grado. Mis planes para el futuro: seguir disfrutando como hasta ahora, progresando y compartiendo buenos ratos con los colegas, si no, ¡¡esto no tiene sentido!! Y este año un poco más de boulder, ¡eso seguro!”

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REVIEW

Wednesday, 21 September

Skin care by Climbskin

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1. Introduction

 Hands are our direct connection with the rock, they allow us to perceive it in a special way. A well-cared skin – with calluses, yes, but even and springy ones – will dramatically improve our sensations, making a difference in our performance when climbing.

 No need for extraordinary care of our hands, just a small additional routine to our climbing will help us to better understand their skin and necessities.

2. Care & Advice

 Before: Prepare the skin for climbing. "Warm up"

 - Until now, it was unthinkable to use any existing products before climbing. Now, you can use Climbskin Hand Cream one hour before climbing. A thin layer is sufficient to give the skin greater elasticity. This acts as a "warming" that helps to prevent skin damage (reduces the possibility of "smilies", calluses, cracks, or taking off the skin under the nail ). Tincture of benzoin and natural silica also help to regulate sweating, which is an important factor in skin wearing.

During:

- Keep a cool, dry skin. A common mistake is to keep your hands in your pockets right before starting to climb. A skin with some degree of sweating and at higher temperature than its surroundings will suffer more wear. Instead, put your hands in contact with the rock for a few seconds before climbing.

- Cut and file any lifted skin as soon as possible, no matter how small it may seem, to avoid further damage by snags in the same area.

- If you notice that your skin is really close to open a crack or smilie...sure you have had this feeling...Stop! to fight against motivation it is not an easy thing sometimes but if you stop in the right moment, not only you are avoiding the damage, your skin will react getting stronger in that part a cause of the pressure and friction. Your skin will be full ready to crush in 2 days.

text-align:justify;background:white"> - If a callus is lifted, the first thing to do is to stop the bleeding. Then cut the skin and file the generated skin step. Apply Climbskin Hand Cream to the affected area and leave it there for 20 minutes before spreading it. For this kind of wounds, an excessive hydration is counterproductive as this would soften the skin and slow regeneration, so keep the wound uncovered. But if you decide to keep on climbing – most surely you will – cover it with several turns of a thin strip of breathable tape, beginning from the tip of the finger downwards so it will take longer to move (change it as soon as it starts to move). text-align:justify;background:white">Slits, cracks or smilies are usually caused by a lack of elasticity in the callus, and repetition of movements. When they occur, they must be cleaned and filed out. Then apply Climbskin cream as indicated above. text-align:justify;background:white">After: Level the skin of your hands at the end of each session (theory of the layers). text-align:justify;background:white">- Before washing your hands, you must carefully file all the broken skin. Only after, wash them. If you have a skin particularly dry, it is important to file them as soon as possible in order to wash them asap too. To file your hands while there is still magnesium facilitates the disposal of the waste accumulated on the skin. If you use the Climbskin file to file your hands while they still have some moisture or grease, use the black side (for metal). Afterwards you can completely remove any residue from the file by rubbing it on a cloth or rubbing it with a toothbrush (the lime will not suffer any wear). text-align:justify;background:white">- File and level every crack of your skin. If you have suffered great wear of the fingertips, then it is important to file the skin around the nails to favor a uniform regeneration. An excess of callus in these areas is not convenient, since it favors the wear of the fingertip. text-align:justify;background:white">-File the excess of callus beneath the fold lines in each finger joint to prevent the lifting or pinching of the calluses (especially important when you are starting to climb or train). text-align:justify;background:white"> - If the callus overhangs the nail you must also file it to prevent it could get caught in some grips. text-align:justify;background:white">Once the skin is entirely leveled, you can wash your hands to remove dirt and magnesium. Then dry them well. text-align:justify;background:white">Now it's time to use Climbskin Hand Cream. You should apply it in layers, extending it thoroughly. Usually, 1 or 2 times will suffice. The layers should not leave any residue on the skin (if your hands are a little bit greasy, then you have used more cream than necessary). Cover the wounds, cracks or smilies with the cream for 20 minutes, then spread it and leave them uncovered, in contact with the air. Do this twice a day to speed up recovery. text-align:justify;background:white">You can use CLIMBSKIN® hand cream several times a day, before and after each session of climbing, without any problem. Make the skin care of your hands a healthy routine and you will see the difference in no time. white">"It is a great product, it moisturizes and rebuilts your skin. It is not like the waxy or oily materials, you can actually put it on before you climb which is one of the most amazing things. Climbskin is gonna change people's climbing. It is by far the best product on the market". — Chris Sharma 

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TRAVEL & CRAGS

Wednesday, 14 September

Father and son win a Great Wall in Brazil

Father and son win a Great Wall in Brazil, in Espirito Santo state, near Pedra Riscada, the Brazilian Paradise, from where endless possibilities of new climbing routes arises. On a 630 meters wall, born a route called "Spirit of the Gerais", check out the full story of this adventure on Edemilson Padilla and Ian Padilha’s blog

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INTERVIEWS

Thursday, 26 May

Jon Cardwell does Biographie after 10 years and 75 tries

(c) Matty Hong

"Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"




Jon Cardwell shares his amazing story of have he did Biographie 9a+ in Céüce after some 75 tries during ten years. It is the nicest story of how he came to Céüce having just done his first 8c+ as a 18 year old and directly started working on Chris Sharma's 9a+. Jon's story is about inspiration and team work and to never give up. It is about evolving and enjoying the process and getting mental stronger. It is about climbing! It is about having fun!

- I first visited Céüce in 2007 with Ethan Pringle, naturally on my first day I jumped on realization the first day, quickly realized it was too hard at the time and carried on the rest of my time there experiencing many other routes - I went on to watch both Dave Graham and Ethan send it that season. A couple years later in 2009 were my first real attempts, I think I redpointed to the top crux about 20 times but I think even then it was maybe just a little too challenging for me then there was a long break and I returned in 2014, where unfortunately we had poor weather, despite this I got close, maybe falling at the crux another 6 or 7 times. Then there's last year when I got super close - I was working it by myself and then eventually Stefano Ghisolfi, who was super inspiring! Unfortunately I couldn't do it, mostly because I had created this mental block that falling at the crux was to happen every attempt. It was really hard to work through. But, finally, this year I returned after a lot of training and a better attitude and after about 15 tries, I finished it!

The previous day I got really close, climbing the first part effortlessly but I made silly mistakes, like rushing into the crux causing a foot slip, and on other time I hesitated midway through the crux and I shorted a grip...conditions were perfect! The next day, it was warmer and there was pretty much no wind - which has always been helpful in ceuse. However, the warmth kind of felt nice and I was finally able to climb in a normal t-shirt as opposed to a long sleeve. It made me feel more free to move as silly as that sounds. Anyway, the warm up was nice and my first attempt was super solid, but just as I grabbed a hold further than I was falling previously, my hand slipped off! It wasn't too frustrating though because I knew that I didn't waste much energy, I was hardly tired! I rested about 2 hours and then tried again, what followed was a smooth climb of the first part and a true fight in the crux! I was exhausted from two days of climbing but somehow my intuition kicked and I had just enough power to make it to the jug. It was totally surreal, it felt like a dream everyone cheering me on. The top felt weightless. So happy.

I think in the last year, I really improved as a climber. Mostly in my ability to climb with less hesitation - in the last year I really focused more on onsight and flash and I think these forms of climbing really help that, more than physical challenges they are almost the best training for one's climbing mind! You must make important decisions quickly, without self-doubt, and when you make a mistake you're often finished. This really helps your mind act without emotion - which often gets in the way of hard redpoints - "is this the try?" "Are conditions perfect" etc....once I realized thoughts like that didn't help, I moved with more confidence and was able to perform to the best of my ability (still far from the super stars we see today) but definitely at a higher level than last year. That, and quite possibly after so many tries on one climb, I had it dialed! 

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