Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms Wouldn't it be a nice feeling if lactic acid and pumped forearms didn't exist, like it is for kids*. Athletics have been fighting with lactic acid build up for decades, but there is no universal solution. It is a bummer for us climbers, even less is known. This article takes a brief look at the "pumped" syndrome, what lactic acid is and how you can deal with it. If you have ideas or know more than us, email 8a.nu now! We always want your feedback. Practise - What is a pumped forearm and how to avoid it? There are three possibly reasons why your arms feel like lead and have blown up like balloons. Firstly, lactic acid has been left in your arms which makes the muscles swell, secondly the contractions in the muscles have a hard time to let go and thirdly there is too much blood into your arms. Below three methods to prevent getting pumped forearms is presented. A pulsating or tickling gripping technique Based on the theory below, pumped forearms are the result of long constant contact time with the holds. One way of avoiding this is using a pulsating gripping technique. It helps liberate the muscle contraction to make blood supply possible, even for just a couple of short time windows. It means that all your body weight will have to be carried by only one hand at the time. The circulation in both your forearms is low when both your hands are used for holding on. Remember that the blood supply is completely shut when the muscle is at 50% of its maximum load. Most probably you are already unconsciously doing this as all top climbers are using it, but keep it in mind and develop your technique to make it more efficient. Hands up and squeezing Often the strongest feeling of a pumped forearm occurs immediately after you have finished climbing. To avoid blood being pumped and pushed downwards into your forearms, you should hold them above your head and lean them against the wall immediately after you have climbed. By doing this you will make it harder for the arteries to flood your forearms and increase the possibility for the blood to flow in the veins. The time of holding your arms above your head is individual and depending of how pumped you are. Another way of assisting the blood circulation is to squeeze your hands in order to increase the blood flow in the veins. Running - Dilution and Purification of lactic acid Once you have lactic acid in your forearms you need to speed up the recovery to remove it. One way of doing so is to increase the supply of blood by mildly activating other bigger muscles in your body. It will even out the spread out lactic acid in your body's muscles and the high concentrate of acid in your forearms will be diluted. The other reason for increasing the blood circulation is because your liver is a purification plant. It turns waste products, lactates, into usable energy. A faster blood flow through the liver causes the level of lactic acid to diminishing more rapidly. In general, most of the lactic acid in your forearms is broken down within two hours, but some of these measures can halve that time. Theory - What is lactic acid and how is it created? In brief the oxygenated blood which is flowing into your muscles can be insufficient and lactic acid is produced. Lactic acid is a product of a non-oxygenated muscle process and called anaerobic metabolism (Gr. an- means "without", aer- means "air"). When there is a steady supply of oxygenated blood in your muscles, it's called an aerobic process, and you can't get pumped. One reason for why the oxygen in the blood is insufficient is that when a muscle contracts it squeezes the capillaries within it closed. This is a problem as these capillaries supply the muscles with oxygen rich blood. It is believed that if you load your muscles to 50% of their maximum strength the capillaries are completely closed. A lighter load makes it possible to gradually open them and continue the blood supply. If the load is below 20% they will be more or less fully open. Another factor is the intervals in which a muscle has to work. When a muscle is working and is being interrupted by a relaxation contraction, every couple of seconds, lactic acid production will be avoided. New oxygenated blood is being supplied, to the muscle, in-between these working intervals. This has to do with something called ATP which the muscles have restored for some five seconds work. Longer contractions than five seconds, or repeating contraction intervals with minimum rest, means that lactic acid starts to be produced as the ATP has to be made anaerobically, without oxygen. The muscle fibres creating the contraction, are working like mousetraps, either loaded or burnt off. No energy is needed for the contraction of the muscle, but for the relaxation loading procedure energy is needed. If no energy is provided the contraction goes on forever and the ultimate stage is called rigor mortise. A softer stage of a continuous contraction is cramp. Once here you are in a vicious circle as the contraction cuts the capillaries flow and no oxygenated blood can be supplied to the muscle. When there is too much blood in your forearms this also end up as a hindrance more than a benefit and limits the supply of blood. The reason for this is the arteries in the forearm are flooding it. The corresponding veins are unable to remove the surplus blood as the arteries have a higher pressure continually forcing more blood into the arm. This situation occurs after you have climbed and your arms is hanging downwards. Blood flows in easy to pump them up but, at the same time makes it difficult for the veins to squeeze it back. *Children have a higher ratio of capillaries to muscle fibres and a low ability to maximum recruitment (contraction) which means that their blood supply to the muscles is constant.

Crash pads på Östergarnsberget	Klippan är full av chippade hål och cementerade bladbultar

Högklint, lite Verdon känsla, dock lite löst

Raukar på Ljugarn

Anders Hummel

Klättring på Gotland är för många liktydigt med videon, Hårda Tag, där Anders Lundahl (ca 43) solar upp för en mycket brant ca 8 meter hög 8a iförd 80-tals storskor. I en intervju förklarar 'tvåstöringarna' Lundahl och sambon Eva Selin sälen om klättring och deras livsstil. Det känns som professor Lundahl läser ur ett manus när han förunnar klättringens innersta väsen* innan han kör lite väderkvarn och beger sig hysteriskt upp för väggen. Detta är en ultra klassiker som även icke klätterintresserade kan fascineras av.

Klippan, Östergarnsberget, är av kalsksten och ligger mycket lättillgängligt nära den östra spetsen på Gotland i naturskön miljö med gräs nedanför. Vi trodde dock att vi hade kommit fel eftersom den var så låg, jämfört med hur det ser ut på filmen och att det var helt grepplöst. Det låg dock ett par gamla skumgummi madrasser (crashpads) och snart kunde vi se massor av chippade grepp och incementerade rostiga bladbultar. Det finns säkert plats för ett 30-tal leder eller höga boulders och det bästa är 7A och uppåt. Svårt att topprepa då det är så extremt brant. Notera även att kalkstensklippan ligger i ett naturreservat.

Det enda riktigt etablerade berget heter Galgberget och ligger ca 1 km norr om Visby. Här finns topo och vägbeskrivning till 10 leder. I 8a's databas finns det faktiskt ca 40 ascents registrerade.

Den största och klart mäktigaste klippan ligger dock vid utkiksposten vid Högklint. Här finns ca 40 meter höga kalkstensklippor som börjar vid strandkanten och där vissa delar tom är överhängande. Vissa partier såg dock lite lösa ut men det var ändå lite Verdon känsla av att stå och titta ner från toppen, utan skyddsräcken. Man kan gå runt och det är hur mycket klippa som helst. Vi hann dock inte sätta topprep. Är det någon som klättrat här förut?

Ute på östra spetsen testade vi lite bouldering på några raukarvid , Ljugarn. Lite löst även här men potentialen var stor.

*(Det klassiska citatet från Anders Ludahl)
'Själen är ändå att befria sig från det sociala att gå in i sig själv totalt, integrera kroppen och själen i den hära... 'No thinking'. Det är inget tänkande. Ska man bli en bra klättrare måste man sluta tänka, analysen måste ske före själva tillmötesgåendet av klippan. Då kan vi tala våra sociala ting. Men när du är där, om det ska bli en bra prestation, 'No thinking', bara flytts som ett djur, rent djuriskt, 'Will power' och öka den maximalt och se hur långt man kan komma.'

PUMPED FOREARMS – A ROUTE CLIMBERS NEMESIS Edu Marin fights the pump on La Rambla, 9a+. Picture Sam Bié. Wouldn’t it be nice if pumped forearms did not exist? Athletics have been fighting with immediate muscle soreness (pump) for decades, but the only solution appears to be training, and proper eating and drinking. This article takes a look at the "pumped" syndrome, what is causing it is and how you can deal with it.     WHAT IS PUMP? There are three main factors that interact to produce pumped forearms, 1) acidosis of muscle tissue (low pH), 2) spastic contraction of the muscles (i.e. cramp), and 3) reduced blood circulation through your muscles. 1) Contrary to common belief pump, i.e. immediate muscle soreness, is not caused by the accumulation of lactic acid, as lactic acid cannot be produced under regular circumstances in human tissues. Instead, a substance called L-lactate is constantly produced during normal metabolism and exercise. During intense exercise when the rate of demand for energy is high the rate of lactate production exceeds the rate of lactate removal. This is a beneficial process that ensures maintained energy production during the exercise. The acidosis that is associated with increases in lactate concentration during heavy exercise arises from a separate reaction. In brief this has to do with the increase of “loose” hydrogen ions during hydrolysation (cell respiration). During intense exercise, aerobic (oxygenic) metabolism cannot produce enough energy to supply the demands of the muscle. As a result, anaerobic (non-oxygenic) metabolism becomes the dominant energy-producing pathway. This leads to an overload of tissues with “loose” hydrogen ions, causing pH to fall and creating a state of acidosis. This contributes to the acute muscular discomfort experienced shortly after or during intense exercise. 2) Cramp has two main causes, 1) fatigue, and 2) low hydration. Fatigue (1) means that cramp sets in when our muscles are tired due to inadequate oxygenation (oxygen-flow). Resting, reloading of energy (i.e. eating) and stretching the muscles may solve this problem. Low hydration (2) means that there is a lack of water or salt in the cells, which reduces the functional ability of the muscle cells. Remember, cramp can also be an indication of low health condition, i.e. you are sick or not fit enough. 3) Reduced blood circulation and low oxygen levels can be caused by muscle-contraction-squeezing of the capillaries. In fact, heavy loads during long intervals may close the capillaries completely, resulting in acidosis and great pain. The same thing can occur when the arms get flooded with blood. This happens when the veins are unable to remove the surplus of blood that the arteries, which have a higher pressure, continually force into the arm. The overflow “squeezes” the capillaries, further lowering the ability to remove “old” oxygen-poor blood. Note: Children have a higher ratio of capillaries to muscle fibre and a lower ability to contract their muscles, producing a more constant supply of blood to the muscles.     HOW TO AVOID PUMP •    Warming up is essential if you want to reduce pump. A short walk, run or jumping up and down will increase your blood flow. Stretch some before climbing and start of with some easy routes or moves that will get your muscle activity going. Don’t chock your muscles. •    Do not forget to eat and drink before, during and after climbing, as this will help you avoid cramp. The amounts of food and drink required vary and you will have to learn what is right for you and your body. In general, fast energy (i.e. sugars), minerals (i.e. salts) and water are most important during climbing, especially if conditions are warm and humid. •    Gripping technique is important, since pump increases with high and constant load. Reducing the contact time between hand and hold by using a more pulsating gripping technique may help. Try to alternate the load between arms, rest the “loose” arm and breathe continually. •    Improved foot technique, such as heal hooks and knee-drops, will enable you to put more load onto your feet and legs, saving some of the pressure and load on the arms. •    Pump often occurs right after intense exercise (e.g. a crux move, long hard sequence, etc). To avoid spoiling you chances of another “go”, hold your hands above your head and gently squeeze the palm of your hands to increase blood-flow. Soft massage and stretching may also help, but don’t pound the muscles or over-stretch as this can increase the soreness! •    Pump is also dependent on your general fitness. A healthy body has a lower risk of pump, although this is also genetically determined. Try to keep fit and don’t climb when you’re sick.

More than 400 youngsters from 39 countries	David Lama #3 at his home gym

The Youth Championship 2006 was a great success with more than 400 teenagers from 39 countries. This was the largest international climbing competition ever and it was perfect organised including very good routes. The climbing gym in Imst was full of energy and a friendly atmosphere for five days and the host country, Austria, dominated with seven medals.

Sean McColl from Canada, interview, took his fourth and fifth gold medal by winning both lead and speed, in the oldest category, and Eric Lopez from Spain did get his first two golds in the youngest category. Tiffany Henslay did get two silver as did Anna Stöhr, who did win a senior boulder World Cup in June! 

Sensational #1 Anmi Sachi - Japan	#2 Jakob Schubert 1990-12-31

However, the most striking results from the championship were in fact that the youngest out-climbed the older ones and that the senior European lead Champion in 2006, David Lama, was beaten by two new wonder kids; #1 Sachi Anma - Japan and #2 Jakob Schubert - Austria (born 901231). Sean McColl would not have made the podium competing with these more than three year younger guys.

Among the girls, the senior European lead Champion Charlotte Durif (16) won her category but she was out-climbed by 13-year-old Johanna Ernst - Austria, who was superior in the youngest category. 

The youngsters are taking over the scene but how is this possible and what is the future scenario? Reino Horak had a quick chat with Johanna where he understand that she is very dedicated and that her Austrian climbing community is very professional. Johanna trains some 20 hours per day divided on bouldering, technique and endurance. Further more, she also do general exercises, runs and mental training. As her hobbies are chess, enhjuling and gymnastic we understand that she loves challenges and that she is prepared for any climbing sequence.

Johanna Ernst - Austria

She is trained by her father who has built a bouldergym in their basement. In the beginning, they had to travel 5 hours every weekend in order to climb in a gym. The national coach gives her a training plan and sometimes her climbing is recorded which is sent to the coach. At least, once every month they meet the coach for having feedback and putting together new training exercises. 

- Johanna is fully professional and very goal oriented. She can hold any crimper and just relax without getting tired, as she has not yet reached the puberty, she can not produce lactic acid. Reino told me, beeing quite amazed by talking to her and seeing her climb.

Will climbing evolve into the same teenager sport like gymnastic?
In gymnastic, most girls have their peak at 16 after ten years of 20 - 40 hours training per week. I would believe that if a similar training approach would reach climbing we will see a younger peak. It is easy to understand that climbing is not as complicated as gymnastic where they compete in many different disciplines with super strange movements which can only be learned from a highly educated trainers. Injuries and nasty falls are much more normal than in climbing and being small sometimes is a disadvantage for the choreography judgement.

In climbing, you can pretty much train yourself and just have fun. You have advantage from a light body and especially small fingers which make it possible to switch hands everywhere. Route-setters have to make it reachable also for shorties meaning that it often ends in an endurance challenge. If you can not produce lactic acid you will not get tired. It just might be that Johanna Ernst would have out-competed also all the top senior World Cup climbers once again, as she did while doing some onsight training on the final World Cup route in Imst.

However, all gymnasts quite their sport and it is a great risk for everyone that only focus on indoor climbing and competitions that they also will quite without having tried the lifestyle at the crags. Climbing is a lifestyle, points and competitions just for fun!  PS Next year in Ecuador, Adam Ondra #5 in the 8a world ranking, is old enough to compete in Youth. 



 

When it comes natural!   Chris climbing & spotting Chris Sharma is at Railay Beach - Thailand, together with his lovely girlfriend Julie, and it's obvious that this is his paradise. Last year he was mostly doing routes but this year he is also bouldering, directly from the beaches, with the locals. - It is more natural! It is more fun! Short sentences and always a welcoming smile and he is just like one of the natural-borns on the playground. His only problem is that they are all around 165 cm and not used to spot (like me). - Could you help me when I'm climbing? Sharma tries to invite a tall stranger passing by on the beach, as he needs him badly for the new problem he wants to do. It ends up that we all are shuffling sand over some flagstones. - COME ON! Chris is super psyched but he's not climbing, he is spotting and he is so focused and powerful when he is spitting the commands out that he just grabs them on straight arms when they pop of. Brushing away the sand from his feet and carefully chalking his hands and he is off. Some quick moves and the first thing that puzzles you is the power he puts on his feet when he squeezes the overhanging bulge. Higher than ever, going for tiny holds that no man has ever touched, and you can feel that he is a bit worried about the weak spotting squad beneath him and he screams when he desperately goes for an undercling and falls in our arms. Everyone is laughing and he has to wait another day for more sand. - Look at it, it's so beautiful! Sharma is smiling and you can see in his eyes that this problem is not about ratings or being the best. You do not have to ask why, it's just natural as it is. But you start to wonder. Is this the reason for him knowing that he has been the best or is it a consequence? Hard facts __ Chris Sharma Born __ 1981 World Championship - 1997 __ Second Redpoint __ 8c+, Biographie Boulder __ 8b+, Slash Face WC Rovereto (bouldering) - 2000 __ Third 8a.nu's World Ranking Routes & Boulders __ ~40 & ~15 Sponsors __ 5.10 & Prana   Playing with the stalactites Cruising Voodoo Doll, 7c+ He started out when he was 12 when his parents left him at the gym and ever since, climbing has been his true passion. Three years later he was number two in the world championship in 1997 and at the same year, turning 16, he was within the top five in all the seven UIAA competitions he participated in. So what's the secret? How are you supposed to train to become such a super athlete? Few questions and minutes later you really understand that, in his case, it's most about natural talent and attitude. At least, he can't come up with good enough training reasons. The explanation he gives is having the right "feeling" and having "fun" and not to follow any specific "program". Surprisingly he says that WC comps are fun and he is in fact thinking of a comeback in the next season. But he really doesn't know and when he is answering why he has done so few since 1997, he looks deeply in my eyes and makes me understand that the feeling hasn't been right. In fact, the feeling hasn't been that right for producing results for close to three years and it's instead the myth that has grown stronger. He has seriously been trying to give Biographie, 8c+, in Ceuse, a 50 feet 9a+ extension but fallen numerous times at the top. But mostly he has been bouldering and earlier this year the un-rated Mandala, was on everyone lips. Speculations assumed up to 8B+ but as it was relatively easy repeated and the grade has been suggested to 8A+. He will remain in Railay for another couple of weeks before he goes to the Phillippines and India, during the winter season. Then back to the States and maybe Europe and some WC series the next summer, whatever! This guy he is living in the moment and why should he bother when he is here in paradise together with his girlfriend. As soon as I'm starting to ask about ratings and Hot Flashes he starts to feel uncomfortable. In fact, his body language changes so dramatically just when he understand that I'm like everyone else and it ends up that I have to apologize to even have brought the matter up and he walks back to his girlfriend. Last week we saw him doing an 8a+ on-sight, but that's not important to him. The important thing, it seems, is each time as he, fully loaded, feels rock under his nails. Then he is, each time, just letting go of all the energy he gets in this paradise, just by walking around and being with Julie. Happy-go-lucky he waits for the next time - When it comes natural! Alternatively, the worlds most talented climber, since the (9a route) legend Wolfgang Gullich, could do like him and the rest of the world class climbers - train hard - and instead of being a myth he might become the legend of 9A bouldering... Paradise...

-->

World Champion 2002, 2003, 2004 and twice 2006! The best ever competition result for a junior.

Beating the Russian speed specialists Pic Mike Doyle

Sean at the qualification route Pic Mike Doyle

 Sean McColl has won the Youth World Championship for the fourth time, making him the most successful junior competitor ever. I met him during the Petzl Roc Trip in Millau, in July, and we had a quick chat. Luckily I found my notebook from this interview. However, even if I go through details like his 8b+ at 12 and piano lessons six times a week for many years etc., the thing that made most impact on me was his relaxed approach and  friendliness. You know, he's the type of guy you hope your 25-year-old sister will marry.

 The day after, Sean won the Speed event as well, and since we had a chat over Internet, we start the interview with some questions about his victory. In fact his speed victory was a sensation since all important speed victories, including the World Cups etc, have been won be the speed specialists from Ukraine and Russia, who focus more on speed than lead!

How have you trained for the speed event?
 Well, I haven't trained a day of speed climbing in my life, it must be my competitive nature, and my fast twitch running muscles. I just barely beat my opponents every round.

What!? No preparation at all, that sounds really crazy!?
 I'm not too sure about speed. I've always been a fast runner and I just relate speed climbing to track running. Also I'm a very powerful climber and enjoy bouldering as well. I believe that in speed, you have to combine physical strength with speed and good muscle memory. Even in the speed climbing this year, I surprised myself.

What are your plans in the short run?
 I am currently going to attend the Arco Rockmasters at the beginning of September, and then I'll be going to the World Cup in Marbella, and then I'll be going to Kalymnos for the month of October with the Petzl Roc Trip.  In November, I'll be going to the World Cups in Penne, Italy, and Kranj, Slovenia.

And in the long run, education plans etc?
 Going back to the US, start working to save for my next climbing trip. I'm planning to just climb for a bit, I've done pretty well and I always want to do better. I already took a year of college, and a year off is nothing out of the ordinary. I might go back to school in August 2007. 

Winning the speed event ahead of these guys from Ukraine and Russia who only focus on speed. In fact, this was the first time since 2001 since, that a climber outside Eastern Europe won an important title in speed.
 
 In the autumn of 2000, when we started our Global page, we reported that Sean did his first 8b+, the Pulse, at the age of 12. This was a new world record. What we did not know was that he did the 8b+ after only two years of climbing. Sean has mostly been climbing and training indoors. He mentions that he owes all his training tips to Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle. They have put together his program which includes periodization which means that different training apply for different periods. By talking to Sean you really understand that he is a trained athlete and he underlines this by saying that everybody should have a trainer.

 His other two main interests are piano, which he has played every day up until two years ago, and soccer. When I try to calculate how he has had time to do this I start to wonder how he can be so relaxed. I mean, a 150% busy guy like him often tends to be hyper active, responding quickly, especially when he sees that I don't really understand his answers. Instead he just sits there relaxed, enjoying our conversation. Apparently, he has been quite successful also in the field of piano, which maybe a good explanation to why he has such strong fingers. As most of you've probably never heard of any Canadian soccer team, so let's leave it there.

 In 2006, he has spent a few months climbing outdoor in Europe and he hopes he can continue this lifestyle. So far he has been lucky with support from his sponsors; Nature Path, Petzl, 5.10, Bluur, Sterling ropes, and Flashed. Probably we will see a stronger focus on outdoor and onsight climbing in the future. So far he has 'only' managed to onsight 8a.

   

Sasha DiGiulian (13) - challenger to Charlotte Durif
By J-M Casanova who also has taken all the pics

Imagine being 13 years old, having onsighted a 7C+ boulder and a 7c+ route, and to be #2 in the 8a combined world ranking. She has won almost all comps she has entered and in the latest one, Sasha was only beaten by the reigning European Champion Charlotte Durif,*1.

"I climb because it's my way of setting goals, and things to accomplish. Climbing really builds great determination, because it is greatly influenced by mental thinking, like knowing you can do something, even though it might seem impossible- you can't let the impossible take over, because nothing is actually impossible, just takes more work effort than something else might."

"For all those just starting climbing, keep it up. When you fall, stand back up and try it again. Think of falling as improving. Every amount of effort you put in to your climbing, is the amount of progress you will get out of it. Don't give up when you feel like you are doing crappy, keep your head high and keep trying!! ? please note I try my hardest to follow these directions myself, and am certainly no where near being perfect!!!"

1. How and When did you start climbing?
I started climbing at my brother's birthday party about six years ago, and liked it so much that I kept coming back. About five years ago I began competing.

2. How much and How do you normally climb during a week?
I try to climb about 4 -5 days a week, and the days I don't climb, I do power training consisting of lots of different types of pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, and locks, etc. I take one rest day of doing nothing, which I like to have on Fridays. When I climb, if I'm doing endurance I do lots of laps, and if I'm on-sighting I try to on-sight all the new hard routes. For bouldering, I work on problems and do lots of problems without taking much break, to work up power endurance.

3. How is a perfect day at the crag?
About 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit, sun shining on your back, but rock pretty cold, blue sky, rock not wet, and to be psyched to climb!!!

4. Do you have a trainer and are you working with any special exercises?
I've got a main coach who has coached me for about 5 years, Claudiu Vidulescu, and I'm being coached by Jean-Michel Casanova (JM) who is also my manager, and Vadim Vinokur. It pays off because I learn different things from each of them, which really helps!

5. What is your plan for the future? Climbing and Education?
Right now I'm in routes season, so I'm training for worlds, which finally this year I'm old enough for! I like to climb outdoors mainly, but competitions are fun too. I go to a private school, and have gone there since kindergarten. I really like it because I've known everyone for a long time and have lots of awesome friends!

6. Which is the best boulder and route climbing area you have ever visited?
Bouldering: HUECO TANKS for sure! Routes: I liked Red Rocks, NV and Rumney a lot, as well as some places I go to in Quebec, Canada like Val David.

7. Competitions plans? World Cups, etc?
Right now I'm still doing routes comps, and my junior Worlds is at the end of August, so that's the main focus. I'm too young to compete in Adult World Cups L

8. What do you want to do later?
I want to go to Harvard and become a lawyer, while still climbing a LOT!!!

Sponsors: Mad Rock, Sickle and Kidsofclimbing.com

*1. Sasha won after a super final, which took place at the same route as the 15-year-old were competing at. Sasha climbed just two holds underneath Charlotte Durif, who won this older category.

The small rubber piece from SUM makes the screw carabiner stay in place, for free for all 8a T-shirt buyers

Fingers of Fred Nicole

More pics later...

The outdoor trade show in is a yearly event where all major actors take part including some 60 climbing companies and another 600 outdoor companies. You can easily do a marathon walking around all booths four days in a row. We registered up as media, saved some 100 euros, and during two days we had 65 meetings.

We were astonished by the feedback we did from the market and it feels good to say that we will never have to charge any member fee (it has never been the plan but many have asked us). Contrary, we will be able to speed up the development of features and give better services as we can start giving the webmaster some salary. Jonas has been working 15 h per week for almost four years without getting any money.

We invited all companies to take active part in the 8a community and contribute with news worthy information like; product innovations, pictures, news, and interviews with sponsored climbers. In the long run, the producers will have the opportunity to be members with their own password etc providing us with news under a separate column. Millet asked us to be our first company member ;) Major actors did get the 8a T-shirt and it was sure nice to see that when we left the party we actually did see our T-shirt out there.

Renald Quatrehomme from Beal, an 8a member since many years, told us that he had cut down the printing magazine budget with 50 % for order to give higher priority to the web. The following producers informed us that we are in their media plan for 2007;

5.10, Black Diamond, Faders, , Mammut, Millet, Nepa Bouldering, Petzl, Prana, Roc Pillar and The North Face.

Innovations & Trends

The simplest idea is often the best as it also can be dev. Mammut has some new Deep Water Solo shorts where you actually put the chalk into two ordinary pockets. The material gets dry in few minutes and you can challenge yourself over-and-over again without having a dussin chalkbags that never dry. I would guess that this simple idea will be copied immediately and we will see chalk bags without fluffy material that dries super quickly. Sharma will love it, having fell 100 times in his latest project.

Sometimes when you check your belay device you see that your screw carabiner has wandered 90 degrees. By putting on a small rubber piece from Faders on your carabiner it will always be in correct position. (Faders will send us 100 pieces that we will distribute to all 8a T-shirt buyers.)

Many new belay devices and Edelweiss has the most simple an cheap one doing the same thing as the GRIGRI.

Quickdraws get smaller and thinner, both the webbing and the carabiner. However, if you are a frighten climber like myself you actually prefer a thick webbing connected to a big carabiner when you catch the quickdraw to avoid that whipper.

The waist belt of the harness has a net which I guess is due to allow breathing, reducing the suet. However, we have found that once your t-shirt has been taken of, and you hang long time you might get some red bruises from the friction, the net creates.

Celebrities
David Graham is still injured. He has had four month without climbing and his hand problem actually don't seem to get better. He is getting super frustrated! Rosta Stefanek complained about the heat and told us that he for three weeks only has trained his little finger. Apparently he has a project in Frankenjura where he can not squeeze his monster fingers. We also meet Fred Nicole, gave him the 8a T-shirt, and set up plans for another interview and by shaking and looking at his hand we could understand that also his little fingers are to huge to squeeze into any normal size holds. The girlfriend of Evgeny Krivosheytsev said to us - Please don't brainwash him any more with this 8a talk. He is always surfing and planning how his next hard redpoint could get him higher in the ranking.

We changed strategy and gave her the 8a T-shirt instead!

Alexandre Chabot just won the French Championship for the sixth time, but the The French Climbing Federation didnt´t give Chabot any time for celebration. The day before the world cup in Chamonix, Chabot was called in front of the national commission (FFME), for having masked the logo of the brand Quechua. Quechua is official sponsor for the French national team. First Chabot was sactionned the 12th of may and given four months suspension from competitions without restrictions, for the same reason. The final pursuit wasn´t made before after the Europeen Championship (29. - 30. June 2006). The final result, for not having worn the famous logo on his official gear, is that Alexandre Chabot has to stop competing for another eight months (for the french team). The decision of the french assosiation is a bit surprising, since Chabots position has been unchanged since last season!

Karina Hillestad has helped us and translated this info from Kairn.com

In cooperation with Tendon, twelve 8a members have tried their 9.2 and 9.7 mm ropes. In general terms everybody has been satisfied and especially for the durability of the ropes. We did not receive any major complaints so it is thumbs-up and recommendations from the Test-pilot panel. Here are the Test-formulair and the Results: More info of the ropes at www.mytendon.com and here is a good rope manual from Tendon.

Water resistence process

"We hope you have had the possibility to try the Tendon ropes. Here are some quick questions. Please answer at a scale: If you don't have an answer just mark "?".

5 = Best in market
3 = Average
1 = Worst in market

A. Quality (Durability of Sheath and Core) = 4.3
B. Dynamic (Soft falls) = 4.2
C. Looks = 3.5
D. Softness (Knotting) = 4.0
E. Twist (Entangle) = 2.8
F. Water resistance = ? (Only two answers) 

General comments on your Tendon rope? What was good/bad? Will you recommend it to friends? 
"The rope is the best I've tried when it comes to dynamic falls, and the sheet makes it easy to give out rope quickly. Even after considerable use it still feels easier to give rope than my Edelrid and Beal rope. (Could it be that this rope is actually thinner than what is said?) I have climbed a lot on this rope and the sheet is still almost as good as new! All in all this rope has been great to climb with, the best rope I have owned and I would recommend it to anyone. (Although the colour is but-ugly in my eyes)."

"I had never owned a rope under 10.2mm. Some characteristics of the Tendon rope make it easier to feel comfortable on a thin rope for the first time while redpointing, such as the apparent longer durability of the sheath. Thanks! For someone searching for a thinner quality dynamic rope, I would definitively recommend it!"