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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2006-02-10  | Category: Training    | Comment  

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Starting from two mattresses produces a natural position compared to a low sit-start.

A full pull-in knee drop move. Now it is easy to sit back down on the mattresses and repeat the move.

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Start position for a push-out high step move. As you only use one hand, more pressure is created. You can weight-adjust the move, simply by putting your foot on the floor or at small foot holds.
Specific finger-position training

Repetetive weight-adjusted training for specific finger-positions is rare among climbers. Instead, we boulder (which is not specific and weight-adjusted) and do campus excercises (which don't resemble to the pull-in moves you do in climbing).


By using two thick mattresses and one or several holds you can start doing repetitive training for specific fingerpositions/moves. All you have to do is; pull-in, crash into sit-start and pull-in again! The point of having matresses is that you can crash into a high sit start and easily do sets of 8 - 12 repetitions of the same fingerposition and move. Without mattresses you have to move inwards before every repetition and this does not resemble a normal climbing move. 


By standing on different sized holds or even on the ground you can weight-adjust your training so that you manage to do four sets on each hand, with one minute rests in between. When you get stronger you can do the same excercise on more overhanging walls. Hence, with this technique you can choose to exercise different muscles and finger positions together with endless combinations of feet and leg positions.


Two examples of good excercises are the closed crimp, pull-in knee drop move and the open crimp, push-out high step move. Maximize your load on the fingers by moving as fast as possible and then stay in the high position for one second. Try to move in a convex curve in relation to the wall, i.e. hit the wall with your body.

You can finish the excercise by staying in the highest position for 10 - 20 seconds, 3 - 5 times depending on your training experience. Rest some 2 minutes in between runs. Make sure that your finger position is the same all through the exercise.

The key to do the excercise is that the mattresses are high enough, avoiding a low sit-start.