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Onsight slaughter by Martina Demmel (18), ranked above all male!

Monday, 7 September

Onsight slaughter by Martina Demmel (18), ranked above all male!

Martina Demmel, who was #24 in Briancon, has during the last three weeks onsighted 15 routes 7c to 8b and the 18-year old is #1 in the onsight ranking game last month, including also the male. This is the first time in the 8a history a female is ranked ahead of all male! Interestingly, she is also ahead of all male when it comes to the Top-100 onsights the last year, as well as in the Top-100 routes the last month!. Only in 2020, she has onsighted 82 routes 7c and harder and in total, she has done 131 routes 8a and harder including nine 8c's, all of them done within a couple of sessions. (c) Christian Seitz

8b: Radote jolie pépère, "Things like this only will happen when you don't expect them at all! Just wanted to boulder up once to warm up for an onsight in the left one but directly found myself clipping the chains of this exposed king line as well:)) two bouldery sections separated by a big rest; couldn't see anything while coming around on this edge in the 2nd crux as the sun was still in the wall..."
8a+: Beauté de chine in Tournoux, Encore in Céüse
8a: Bouse de douze in Céüse and Cost of Freedom in Tournoux

"So in general I don't wanna spent the whole trip trying only a few hard routes I rather wanna get an insight to the place by climbing as many different routes as possible mostly the classics or those who simply look impressive. By climbing lots of different styles I'm slowly getting more comfortable in reading which saves a lot of power and tries as I may find the almost perfect solution for my small size pretty fast. Furthermore, the main reason why I really enjoy onsight climbing because I can decide much more intuitively, be more in the moment without thinking about anything else and to not know what's ahead of you makes this kinda challenge pretty attractive for me. On the other side, I'm psyched to see where my redpoint limit is as well but this isn't what motivates me at the moment maybe in a few weeks, months who knows;) still a lot to learn on keeping up the motivation in a longterm project🔥😊 I don't have any plan or strict routine during the day at all just deciding the routes how I feel or where the others wanna climb which keeps the expectations pretty low😉"

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Balboa 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Monday, 7 September

Balboa 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Michele Reusa has done his third 8a, Balboa in Tetto di Sarre, his sixth attempt. At the same crag he also onsighted his third 8a, Sogno di Nessuno. The 13-year-old and 175 cm tall trains three times a week in a gym called Kuota 8.10 and then climbing outdoors most weekends.

"I always try onsight up to 8b. Saturday I was close on an 8a+ but I fell missing just two bolts. My goals for 2020 are to do another two 8c's and an 8c+. In September there will be a meeting for the Italian national team and I hope to qualify for the European youth cup."

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MORE NEWS

Sahara 9a+ and an 8c flash by Loic Zehani (18)

Sunday, 6 September

Sahara 9a+ and an 8c flash by Loic Zehani (18)

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 21 routes 9a to 9b, has done three more impressive ascents including his first 8c flash, Stay kratom stay safe in St Leger, Sahara 9a+ in Gargantua and Sang neuf 9a in Pierrot Beach.

"My father flashed me the route. It is his project. Sahara" is a connexion of "Fésert convoité" 8c , "Lunatique" 8c and La fiesta del biceps" 8c+ . It's beginning with a natural boulder section and after it's very resistant. After a 9a and a physical rest, you must do an 8b/b+ very physical too. It's one of the most difficult connexions in the cave. It is unfortunately not a natural route but this is a very interesting effort. Four days before "Sahara", I sent "Sang neuf" 9a at Pierrot beach. It took me 2 days."

Loic's father is Christophe (46) who has done two 8c's in 2020. The last time he did a 9a, out of a handful, was four years ago.

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Serenata 8C by William Bosi

Sunday, 6 September

Serenata 8C by William Bosi

William Bosi, who did his first 9b this spring, has done his second 8C, Serenata in Impossible Roof after almost ten sessions. "This has been my first big boulder project so it’s been a really cool experience. It feels amazing putting so much time into something that felt desperate and making happen. With the boulder being only 30 minutes from my house I’ve been able to have quite a few sessions and really push myself on a boulder project which has been a super cool experience. Although the line is an eliminate it climbs really nicely. On my last session I slipped on the last hard move missed the boulder mats and badly sprained my ankle. Luckily it healed quickly and I was able to come back this week and get it done"."

What is next and what about the Olympics?
In terms of outdoor projects hard to say, need to finish Mutation (9a+)! I’m still focused on the Olympics but as walls have only just started opening up I haven’t been able to speed climb since March! So just had to do a lot of off wall exercises.

Last year in Toulouse, he was super close to get a ticket in the qualifying event as he was the only one getting a hand on the last boulder after having done the first three.

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Two 8c+' by Tanguy Merard (16)

Sunday, 6 September

Two 8c+' by Tanguy Merard (16)

Tanguy Merard, who has done two 9a's this year, has done two 8c+; Espace Challenge in Précipice de Corbière, "It's a very long route with a boulder just before the top. For me it was a big challenge to do the route in three days, (before leaving). I liked climbing on this long route, so funny to climb!" and Deltaplane man direct in Entraygues, "A bouldery route with a very interesting effort, really intense and I love it." (c) Antoine Mesnage

In July, the #1 in the junior ranking game, fell on the last move on Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. "Interesting to try the world's first 9a+. I will come back soon to try to send the route! I was close and I have to finish the work."

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Sunday, 6 September

Boone Speed portrait

Saturday, 5 September

L’étrange ivresse des lenteurs 9a+ by Alex Megos

Alex Megos reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's L’étrange ivresse des lenteurs in Céüse. He did it in 5 or 6 tries over three days when he also was filming his recent 9c. "It felt hard for the grade to me so I went and tried “Biographie” a day later to compare and I personally think “L’étrange Ivresse” felt more like 9a+/b to me."

In total, the German has now done some 80 routes 9a to 9c. Last year, the 27-year-old qualified to the Olympics and he also got the silver in the Lead World Championship.

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Athena natural (without chipped holds) 9a by Adam Ondra

Saturday, 5 September

Athena natural (without chipped holds) 9a by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has added yet another four hard ascents, out of which three with personal grades and the FA of Athena Natural 9a in Arco, which means he skipped the chipped holds on a classic 8b+. "Athena climbed without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it). I almost did second go in 2018, then I broke a foothold on my 3rd try and then gave it maybe 15 tries over the last 2 years?! In the end, I found better beta and did it today while being tired and with approaching darkness."

Beginning 9a (+) in Arco, FA by Stefano Ghisolfi: "Very resistant climbing. I found a kneebar and that made the route less bumpy, which might make it only 9a. Checked the moves and did it next go. But I had done St Anger in the past and tried Zauberfee before."

Sid Lives 8c+ (9a) in Arco: "Probably more 8c+ with good conditions. Tried a few yrs ago, I had OK flash try, but then did not try it anymore. Today despite quite warm weather checked the moves, slipped once and did it."

Estrella 8c (+) in Warmbad: "Probably more of just hard 8c. The first crux is not enough to make it 8c+, and then there are rests that are too good. Amazing route nonetheless!"

It should be mentioned that Adam Ondra is the climber in the world that has given most personal grades which later almost always have been confirmed. Without all these personal grades, including as an example, the first two 9a's he onsighted, most probably there would have been more grade inflation in the climbing world. The 27-year-old has suggested personal grades since being a young teenager. In total, he has recorded 175 routes 9a and harder but it would probably be at least 200 without personal grades. Picture from his Insta with more than 600 000 followers.

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Friday, 4 September

White Zombie 8c onsight by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his second 8c onsight, White Zombie in Baltzola, on his third day on. The super steep route is mentioned in the record books for the first-ever 8c onsight, performed by Yuji Hirayama back in 2004. It should, however, be mentioned that later some have given it 8b+ and Jorge comments on Insta, "But I really have to say that now it's a little easier with kneepads than it was before 🤔 although I did not see many of them 😅".

During the last month, the 20-year-old has done six routes 9a to 9b and he is getting superior in the 8a ranking game. Photographer, Carlos Padilla has followed many of his hardest ascents and comments,

"He is undoubtedly one of the best climbers of the moment, not only because of the level he does but also because of the number of hard routes that he is able to send in a few sessions and without rest. Motivation is without a doubt one of his strengths, he never gives up. He also has an extraordinary capacity for recovery that allows him to climb many days in a row, always at the highest level. It continues to amaze me the ability to do his maximum level, several times a day, several days in a row. He has an exceptional assimilation capacity. He has certainly not peaked. He seems for us like a real X-Man...😜"

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