Natalia Grossman, who finished third in Meiringen, faced extreme pressure on the last boulder, starting last, having done nine attempts and not reached the zone with some 40 seconds left. Then she did the dyno to the zone, which secured the win, and with ease she topped it out.
Adam Ondra, who won in Meiringen, struggled a bit on the first Boulder doing it on his fifth go. Then he flashed the last three with ease looking superior, it seemed.
1. Natalia Grossman (19) USA 44 - Adam Ondra CZE 44
2. Oriane Bertone (16) FRA 34 - Mejdi Schalck (17) FRA 34
3. Brooke Raboutou (19) USA 33 (4) - Jakob Schubert AUT 33 (4)
4. Miho Nonaka JPN 33 (7) - Kokoro Fujii JPN 33 (12)
5. Jessica Pilz AUT 13 - Anze Peharc SLO 13
6. Johanna Färber AUT 12 - Gregor Vezonik SLO 12
Matteo Reusa has done his second 8c+ by the FA of One Punch in Falesia del ghëddo which is a new crag in Piedmont developed by his family and trainers. Last week, his brother Michele (14) made the FA of another 8c+ and they plan to set up some 30 routes at the 20-meter crag.
"The route, after a simple part of 7a +, consists of 15 very difficult movements. My father bolted it and I tried the route for 12 days."
1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 - Kokoro Fujii JPN 34
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 34 (6) - Adam Ondra CZE 23
3. Johanna Färber AUT 34 (9) - Gregor Vezonik SLO 13 (2)
4. Jessica Pilz AUT 34 (11) - Jakob Schubert AUT 13 (3)
5. Miho Nonaka JPN 33 - Anze Peharc SLO 13 (4)
6. Oriane Bertone FRA 24 (2) - Mejdi Schalck 13 (12)
Marcello Bombardi, who won one World Cup in 2017, has done the third ascent of Lapsus in Andonno giving it a 9a+ personal grade. Stefano Ghisolfi put it up in 2015 and it is an extension to Noia. The first repeat was done by Adam Ondra. Marcello has previously done five 9a's out of which four the last year.
Jorge Verhoeven reports on Insta that he has done three hard routes in Arco giving them all a personal 8c+ grade, which means one suggested upgrade and two downgrades. The downgrades might be related to the use of knee pads which can be seen in the picture by Tobias Lanzanasto .
Reini's Vibes is the classical 8c in the big Massone roof. Underground is the third most repeated 8c+/9a in the world, at one time 9a, with 35 ascents. Puro Dreaming is a 9a that Alex Megos flashed last October and he was the first to say it is possibly just 8c+.
The 35-year-old says it was exactly 20 years since he first tried them. The same year he got the silver in the Youth World Championship which he later won in 2002 and 2004. In 2008, he won the Overall Lead World Cup. Once he finished his competition career in 2014, he has done some very impressive big walls such as The Nose 8b+ and Dihedral wall 8c on El Capitain in Yosemite. During the last years, his main focus has been setting up new lines, video documentary, as well as his Project-9b.com in Spain, which is paused due to Covid-19. In short, this Dutchman, who moved to Innsbruck in 2004, has been one of the big profiles on the scene during the last 20 years.
Jonatan Flor reports on Insta that he has done two 8c+/9a in Rodellar; Incredible Total and The escape of Ali, Priorato de Sión 9a in Alquezar and the FA of Picacho increíble total 9a+ in the Ali Baba cave Rodellar. (c) Javi Pec
Jonatan's big project is to do El Picacho which is a new link-up starting with an 8B+ boulder. In total, the Spaniard has done 45 routes 8c+/9a to 9b.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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