Vertical-Life
Ben Hanna onsights Humildes pa Casa (8b+)
”Onsighting 5.14 [8b+] had always been a dream of mine. Last week I told @iandzilenski I wanted to onsight Humildes pa Casa before the trip was over, for no other reason then it was the first 5.14a I saw on the Oliana topo. Yesterday we drove to Oliana with this as a goal, but as soon as I started warming up I felt terrible and almost bailed. But we were there, and Dizzy wasn’t about to let me leave without trying. I decided to just give it the good old half ass college try.
I almost fell 3 times on the intro 5.12 and was pretty blasted by the time I got to where the route really starts, but to be perfectly honest, once I started into the tufa I forgot all about how pumped I was and what I was trying to do. I was completely lost in how epic this route is! Probably the most beautiful and enjoyable line I have ever climbed. I had a ear-to-ear, shit-eating-grin across my face the entire route.
The next thing I knew I was pulling the last meter of tufa. It wasn’t until these last couple moves to the anchor that I realized sending was possible, and the fight was on. At this point I was able to get a no hands knee-bar at the last draw which did absolutely nothing I was so pumped. I managed to pull onto the head wall but because of all the rain the last few weeks non of the holds had chalk on them and so I was fully shooting in the dark. With a little bit of luck and power screaming I’m sure all of Spain could hear I was able to pull it off.”
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Solveig Korherr onsights Humildes Pa Casa (8b+)
Solveig Korherr has onsighted Humildes pa Casa (8b+) in Oliana. Having already done five 8b onsights and a total of 55 onsights 8a and harder, the 25-year-old h…
Solveig Korherr does Escalatamasters 9a (8c+)
Solveig Korherr has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. ” Probably one of the best lines I have climbed on limestone so far! Having two completely di…
Thibault Lair sends his first 9a+, Papichulo
Lair Thibault, who previously has made five 9a's, out of which four FAs, has done Papichulo (9a+) in Oliana. Two days earlier he did the FA of Fake news (8c+) i…
Solveig Korherr onsights Humildes Pa Casa (8b+)
Solveig Korherr has onsighted Humildes pa Casa (8b+) in Oliana. Having already done five 8b onsights and a total of 55 onsights 8a and harder, the 25-year-old h…
Solveig Korherr does Escalatamasters 9a (8c+)
Solveig Korherr has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. ” Probably one of the best lines I have climbed on limestone so far! Having two completely di…
Thibault Lair sends his first 9a+, Papichulo
Lair Thibault, who previously has made five 9a's, out of which four FAs, has done Papichulo (9a+) in Oliana. Two days earlier he did the FA of Fake news (8c+) i…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…