NEWS

Po analรฝze dรกt zo Similarweb sme zistili, ลพe 8a.nu je z globรกlneho hฤพadiska najรบspeลกnejลกรญm lezeckรฝm webom na svete. Vรคฤลกina ostatnรฝch webov mรก nรกvลกtevnรญkov priamo z krajiny, kde boli vytvorenรฉ, kedลพto poฤet nรกvลกtevnรญkov 8a je rovnomerne rozloลพenรฝ medzi viacero krajรญn. Zaujรญmavรฝ je vลกak aj fakt, ลพe 84% z tรฝch, ฤo navลกtรญvia 8a.nu zadajรบ adresu "priamo" a nejdรบ cez link na Googli ฤi Facebooku. Tu je ลกtatistickรฉ porovnanie 8a a ฤalลกรญch populรกrnych lezeckรฝch webov: 84% 8a.nu 41% UKClimbing (44% from "Google" & 66% z Britรกnie) 32% PlanetMountain (40% from "Google" & 49% z Talianska) 28% Rock&Ice (40% zo sociรกlnych mรฉdiรญ & 48% z USA) 25% Climbing Magazine (43% z "Google" & 49% z USA) V dneลกnej รฉre sociรกlnych mรฉdiรญ, kde globรกlne weby ako Google a Facebook sprostredkuvรกvajรบ linky na mnohรฉ strรกnky je veฤพkรฝm รบspechom maลฅ 84% "priamych" nรกvลกtevnรญkov. Zรกroveลˆ to vลกak poukazuje na potenciรกl, ktorรฝ 8a mรก.

Coleman & Puccio win USA Bouldering Nationals
Nathaniel Coleman and Alex Puccio have won the USA Bouldering Nationals, being ahead of Kai Lightner (17) and Ashima Shiraishi (15). Alexey Rubtsov and Brooke Raboutou (15) were third. For Alex it was the tenth time she won! Complete results. It is interesting that Coleman was #9 in the semi and having started first in the final he flashed all four problems. Overall, the results shows again that it seems to be an advantage to start first climbing with less pressure and better friction on fresh holds. The scoring system is not the standard IFSC scheme. Instead, the climbers are ranked individually on each problem which is later summed up. However, the first ranking criteria is the number of tops. This means that if you get a really poor result on one boulder this will have a very negative impact. Sean McColl was ranked #116.5 out of 123 competitors on the last boulder which made him just miss the semi even if he had done the first three boulders in just five tries. With IFSC rules, which focus mainly on your best results, he would have made it to the semi. The biggest drawback of the USA scoring format that it is very hard to follow and analyse the results before everyone has competed.

8B flash by Beto Rocasolano in La Pedriza
Yesterday Beto Rocasolano did his first 8B flash, Pin y Pon, an old project of which Nacho Sรกnchez did the FA and which had remained unrepeated since then. (c) Israel Olcina He wrote on Instagram: Today the planets where aligned and accompanied by my sensei Israel Olcina could flash Pin y Pon 8B and then Gorila 8A+(8A)". FA video by Nacho Sรกnchez to be watched here.

2nd ascent of La Teorรญa del Todo 8C (+) by Rubรฉn Dรญaz in Albarracรญn
Rubรฉn Dรญaz has done the 2nd ascent of La Teorรญa del Todo 8C (8C+), Ivรกn Luengo's problem of which Alberto Rocasolano did the FA, calling it an 8C+, which was was the Spaniard's first suggestion of this grade. (C) Ivรกn Luengo Rubรฉn says: "Don't know what an 8C+ is and that's why I think it's a solid 8C." Note that Beto has repeated all the 8C proposals in Spain, including even Crisis, Nacho Sรกnchez's 8C/8C+ in Crevillente.

The stats presented below are based on more than 3 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing shoes 2017. The results are almost identical in comparison to the last years. In brackets, you have the 2016 results. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (Ocun often mentioned) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

On Bouldering reports that Sean McColl and Daniel Woods (9 times champion) did not make it into the Top-20 semifinal in the USA Nationals. Alexey Rubtsov and Ashima Shiraishi won the qualifications. There were 118 males competing in one group meaning that some had to stay more than 9 hours in Iso. Semi live streaming starts at 9.50 UTC -7, 5.50 Euro time.

Po sรบฤte viac ako 3000 hlasov mรดลพeme odprezentovaลฅ, akรก je podฤพa vรกs najepลกia voฤพba lezeฤky pre rok 2017. Tieto vรฝsledky sa skoro na chlp zhodujรบ s vรฝsledkami z predchรกdzajรบceho roku. ฤŒรญsla z roku 2016 sรบ uvedenรฉ v zรกtvorkรกch. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (ฤŒasto zmieลˆovanรฝ bol Ocรบn) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

Adam Ondra preliezol v Oliane 9a+ a chystรก sa na ลฅaลพลกie projekty
Adam Ondra oznรกmil na Instagrame, ลพe sa mu podarilo preliezลฅ cestu Pachamama 9a+ v Oliane. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "ฤŽalลกรญm na zozname je parรกdne spojenie ciest Papichulo a Pachamama, ktorรฉ navล•tal Chris Sharma..." hovorรญ Adam a dodรกva, ลพe obtiaลพnosลฅou by to mohlo byลฅ 9b, moลพno aj 9b+. Adam drลพรญ titul svetovรฉho ลกampiรณna na obtiaลพnosลฅ uลพ dva roky po sebe a za svoju kariรฉru vyliezol 43 ciest obtiaลพnosti 9a+ a ลฅaลพลกie. Na majstrovstvรกch sveta v boulderingu zรญskal dvakrรกt striebro a raz zlato. ฤŒi mรก Adam olympijskรฉ plรกny zatiaฤพ nevieme. Spolu s Adamom je v ลกpanielsku aj mladรฝ slovenskรฝ borec Tomรกลก Plevko a sme zvedavรญ, ako sa mu zadarรญ. Drลพรญme palce!

Pachamama 9a+ Ondrรกtรณl รฉs รบton a kรถvetkezล‘ megaprojรณ
Adam Ondraposztolta Instagramjรกn, hogy lekรผldte a nehรฉz 9a+ -ba sorolhatรณ Pachamama-t, amit Sharma nyitott mรฉg 2009-ben รฉs azรณta is tudtommal csak ketten tudtรกk ismรฉtelni. Az egyik Ramon Julian volt, azon a hรญres nevezetes megล‘rรผlล‘s hetรฉben, amikor nรฉgy 9a feletti utat csลฑrt le Olianan. A mรกsik ismรฉtlล‘ Sachi Amma volt, aki รฉlete รบtjรกnak tartotta, 14nap melรณt tรฉve a megmรกszรกsba kรฉt รฉv alatt. "The best route in my life." -รญgy a komment. Adam To do List-jรฉn most a Chris รกltal nyitott megaprojekt variรกns szerepel, ami a Papichulo รฉs Pachamama รถsszekรถtรฉse 9b - 9b+ lehetsรฉges fokozattal. Adam instรกjรกn panaszkodott, hogy kiesett a megmentล‘ kancsรณk elล‘tt a legvรฉgรฉn รฉs tรถbbet kellett a Pachamama-val foglalkoznia mint tervezte korรกbban, "de legalรกbb be fog รฉpรผlni a projรณra, aminek ugyanez a vรฉge." Photo: Petr Piechowicz