Adjust your strength for specific routes/boulders

If you train hard on crimps you actually loose some strength on sloopers or deep two finger pockets. In other words, if you train hard indoors for your next trip or outdoor project, it will be much better if you train on the same type of holds and gripping positions. The good thing is that it just takes a few sessions to adjust your strength for specific routes/boulders by recruitment finger training. The weakest position for most climbers is normally the open crimp, shown in the picture. By making this gripping position stronger, you get a more balanced repertoire in between open hand and closed crimp.