Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who did her first 9a in May, has sent Panorámix (8c) in Araotz/Oñate, after trying it for three days. The picture, (c) Javi Pec, is from when she was #2 in the Spanish Cup two weeks ago.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Since it’s a route with a lot of tricky kneebars and I’m not very used to them. It was pretty hard initially but when I managed to get all these little tricks, I did it pretty quickly

Dai Koyamada reports on Instagram that after two years of work he has done the FA of Okuro (8C) at Kasagi.

Dai first made headlines in 1998 when he was #4 in a Lead World Cup. After quitting the comp circuit, he did his first 9a in 2002 and the next year he did his first 8C boulder. Over the last 20 years he has done close to 40 8C’s and most of them have been FAs.

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Tara Hayes, who has done five 8A's this summer, has sent Fat Lip (8B) in Peak District. The 26-year-old finished her competition carrer last year after being part of the GB team for 15 years.

”I first tried Fat Lip back in May to see if it was a realistic project for me close to home. Both of the crux moves revolve around knacky heel hooks which suits my style, so I actually made quick progress to begin with. The moves are fun and there was a lot of beta to learn and refinement to be made, so staying psyched wasn't an issue.

I managed to climb it from a few moves in on my 4th session, linking both crux sections into the end. Unfortunately, on my next go from the start as I pulled on the pocket, I felt a tear down my forearm. That session ended abruptly there and later I found out I had an injury to the lumbricals and flexor tendon.

After a 4 month break to let my fingers recover, I started trying it again and managed to re-learn the moves quickly. For the past month I've been going frequently to gain efficiency and give myself the best chance of sending it before the crag starts to seep (which is normally around November).

I think in the end, a combination of good conditions, being rested and having the right level of focus allowed me to execute the moves really well and therefore not be too powered out for the end section. It's the most sessions I've had on a boulder so I'm really psyched to have sent it!”

Why do you think your latest senes have coincided with you having stopped competing?
I think I was able to prioritise training for Fat Lip specifically rather than my training focusing on comps, where a lot of the exercises and moves don't necessarily translate to outdoor climbing. I was also able to rest more for better quality sessions without worrying about comprising my comp climbing form and missing sessions.

Camilla Moroni, who last year sent 8 boulders 8A+ or harder, has done Bodge Job (8B) in Valle Bavona logging it as a 8A+ as she just needed three sessions for the send. The 22-year-old Italian is an active competition climber who in 2021 won the silver in the World Championship.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what you have been up to lately?
In the last month I decided to try a multi-pitch [climbing] instead of bouldering as usual. I managed to send “La scimmia nuda” (200m max 8a) in Val Bavona. It’s a nice route on a beautiful granite wall. I’d like to send also Super Cirill on the same wall, it’s a famous mixed route in the valley.

During the time I tried “La scimmia nuda” I chose to try Bodge Job (8A+) as a side project. It’s a cool compression boulder first ascended by Nathan Phillips, I really recommend it. For those who want to try it, pay attention to the landing and check it before trying.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who last week flashed Clin d'œil au paradis d'en face (8c), reports on Instagram that he has done Bibliographie (9b+) in Céüse. It was put up by Alex Megos in 2020 and has previously been repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi, Sean Bailey and Seb Bouin. Jorge did his first 9b+ in February and he has also done a total of nine, 9b's. (c) Marco Zanone

"I never stopped dreaming, up until the moment the dream came true ✨ Once again, I learnt a valuable lesson. Never lose hope, because everything is possible. Be your best version, work very hard, stay focused, motivated and above all, have the patience and the moment will come 🍀 Everything is always easier when you have people supporting you along the way. Without you this would have been much more difficult. Thank you! ¡Gracias! 🙏❤️"

Fanatic Climbing has made an interview with Nicolas Moineau, who has sent his first 8a, Los Tacos de los dos rigolos in Saint-Géry, which is 40 m long, although he can not see. The 46-year-old won the World Champion in 2012 and has since he retired from the competition scene focused on outdoors and last year he did his first 7c+.

"The things specific to my blindness here were tickmarks in the first section up to the 4th QD precisely. I marked three micro-feet for the belayer/guide. I ended up finding them almost without help but it reassured me that someone could tell me I was really putting my foot in the right place."

Can you tell us how you memorized all the moves and how many there are?
I just did it again and again for one year, until the route was a part of me. I can count 87 moves with the hands. I did not count the moves of the feet.

"What reassures me about my mental health is that boulderers spend several months adjusting two movements on extreme lines. You can always find someone more neurotic than you in the end."

Zander Waller has skipped two grades by repeating James Webb’s Sleepwalker 8C+ in Black Velvet Canyon. ”Really cool new beta, unfortunately it’s easier now, hoping for hard stuff in the future!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your thoughts about the grade?
I managed the ascent in three sessions this trip, plus one short session last trip when it was really hot and I could not do any of the moves. The beta I used skips the intermediate bump hold and goes to the sloper from the better undercling, effectively making the start of the boulder V13 instead of hard V14 or 15. I’m about 6ft [183 cm] with a +4 or 5 wingspan, so my beta is probably only feasible for a few guys. I think Benn Wheeler, Ethan Freudenheim, Simon Hibbeller, and a few other people would do really well with this beta, and I’m curious to see what other people think.

Concerning the grade, I’ve talked with a bunch of people and feel like V15 is how it felt for me. This beta was such a step down from the other methods, and there is no way that it can warrant V16. During my second session, I was really struggling with the old beta. I randomly stumbled upon this new method, and I was able to do the moves within 5 tries and ended up sending it fourth try from the ground.

Of course, this is just a suggestion, but I have a feeling that if other people can execute the same beta then it will get downgraded.

How's the 9A sit start?
I tried the sit for about an hour yesterday. It’s really hard! It will take a lot more training before I can even do all the moves, let alone send the boulder.

Alex Barrows has completed Autoengaño (9a) in Rodellar. The 36-year-old has done nine 9a's, out of which three in 2023.

Alex describes this line and his ascent as, "Spinning around on jugs and knees through the middle of a big roof... very me! Nice to feel good on it today after punting the end last weekend falling out of a kneebar like a moron. Finished on the jug on the lip of the roof, not by clipping the chains from the kneebar before (back around anyone who did that ;) ) Must be very squishy for the grade, but it's very cool."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked it for 4 days, fell off the end (out of a kneebar, like an idiot) on the fifth day and managed to not be quite so stupid on the sixth day. Obviously, not all in a row, I'm too old to not rest a lot 😂