Kai Lightner completes Life of Villains (9a)
"Completing Life of Villains means more to me than just sending a route. It represents a personal and psychological win I needed for myself. Recently something shifted in me. After graduating college and refocusing myself, I realized my body worked perfectly fine. I realized I was just as capable of pushing my limits now as I was as a gangly teenager with big hopes and dreams. I realized I could accomplish whatever I put my mind to, in whatever body God gifted me with. Sending Life of Villains is only the beginning of that dream being realized." Newly release video: Reflecting forward
What have you been up to over the last months leading up to this ascent?
For the past couple months, I’ve been focused on raising my overall fitness for hard outdoor lead climbing. After spending the entire month of August pursuing a multi-pitch project, I reserved September and October exclusively for training and building up my power endurance. A normal day of training for me usually involves a light non-climbing morning session involving cardio, stretching, and a short workout. Then, I’ll do a 2-3 hr afternoon session of climbing, usually on a kilter or tension board. I also reserve a couple days a week for some hard lead climbing sessions! Luckily, my fitness was just enough by the time I showed up to Life of Villains! (c) Dizzyfilms
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Tyler Thompson, who did his first 9a+ in February, did Joe Kinder’s Life Of Villains (9a) in Hurricave, two weeks ago. Here is the 8a news article. In the video, we can see him doing a crazy knee drop [6.03 min].
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