29 November 2023

Kai Lightner completes Life of Villains (9a)

Kai Lightner made his first headlines when he sent Southern Smoke (8c+) at age 13, in 2012. The next year, he won the Youth World Championship and completed Era Vella (9a). Life Of Villains (9a) at the Hurricave marks his first 9a since then and Kai says on Instagram. "After all these years, I had almost completely given up on myself…

"Completing Life of Villains means more to me than just sending a route. It represents a personal and psychological win I needed for myself. Recently something shifted in me. After graduating college and refocusing myself, I realized my body worked perfectly fine. I realized I was just as capable of pushing my limits now as I was as a gangly teenager with big hopes and dreams. I realized I could accomplish whatever I put my mind to, in whatever body God gifted me with. Sending Life of Villains is only the beginning of that dream being realized."
Newly release video: Reflecting forward

What have you been up to over the last months leading up to this ascent?
For the past couple months, I’ve been focused on raising my overall fitness for hard outdoor lead climbing. After spending the entire month of August pursuing a multi-pitch project, I reserved September and October exclusively for training and building up my power endurance. A normal day of training for me usually involves a light non-climbing morning session involving cardio, stretching, and a short workout. Then, I’ll do a 2-3 hr afternoon session of climbing, usually on a kilter or tension board. I also reserve a couple days a week for some hard lead climbing sessions! Luckily, my fitness was just enough by the time I showed up to Life of Villains! (c) Dizzyfilms
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Jakob Schubert's B.I.G. goes at 9c

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that B.I.G. aka Project Big in Flatanger, goes at 9c. The Austrian made the FA, of the Adam Ondra bolted route, last week du…

Tyler Thompson sends Life Of Villains (9a)

Tyler Thompson, who did his first 9a+ in February, has repeated Joe Kinder’s Life Of Villains (9a) in Hurricave. Can you tell us more about the ascent? I trie…

Tyler Thompson, who did his first 9a+ in February, did Joe Kinder’s Life Of Villains (9a) in Hurricave, two weeks ago. Here is the 8a news article. In the video, we can see him doing a crazy knee drop [6.03 min].

Gold and silver in the USA Nationals and Life Of Villains 9a and an 8c+ by Colin Duffy (17)

Colin Duffy, #7 in the Olympics, has done Flight Of The Conchords (8c+), on his second go, and Life Of Villains (9a) in Hurricave. "Amazing route! After not bei…