NEWS

Jernej Kruder is one of the leading multi-discipline climbers in the world who was #2 in the Boulder World Champion in 2014. Last year he did the DWS Es Pontas 9b and he has also done several hard multi-pitches. In the video he does an old bolted 8b+ on trad gear. Next is the Lead World Cup in Arco, followed by the Boulder World Cup in Munich. Later he will also start training Speed in order to try to qualify to Tokyo 2020.

OHM - A future smashing success
My 19 kg son tried belaying me at 67 kg for the very first time and thanks to the OHM it worked great. Olle was really pleased to have full control and I had to climb up two meters several times so he could lower me down. - Dad! This is cool. How does it work? - The OHM in the first bolt assists small belayers by creating friction. - I want to try again. Now I can work as your belayer when you are drilling. It should be noted that the official Edelrid manual says, "Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg". The OHM is first of all produced to assist lighter belayers when their partner takes a fall. Often in a gym or even outdoors you see smaller belayers attached to some kilos of sand or so. It says that the OHM does not increase the rope drag for the lead climber but when we tested the device on a slab, sometimes it rotated and some ropedrag was created. On steeper terrain we noticed almost no increased ropedrag. I do think this will be a smashing success especially for families with kids. I will certainly not allow my kid to belay me climbing for several years but in order to get everyone more involved, I will let Olle, under my careful supervision, belay his little brother. I am very sure they will be both very proud and it is very good for them to learn the safety protocol and how to trust each other.

Climbing presents an interesting article in regards how a study has showed how indoor bouldering could help against depression. Some hospitals in Germany have started using bouldering interventions. "For one, it requires mindfulness, which can break people out of negative thought cycles, which can reinforce depression. Social support is a big part of climbing too, and the sport can also grant an immediate sense of accomplishment upon completing a route or challenging move."

Second 8b for Alex Totkova (12)
Alex Totkova has done her second 8b Bruce Lee in Dryanovo Monastery. The Bulgarian has been climbing three times a week indoors and during the weekends outdoors with her father, for only four years. The last two years she has won all the Lead comps she has done in Bulgaria, Petzen, Imst and Arco.

Nicolas Collin BEL - Franziska Sterrer AUT Leo Favot FRA - Hannah Meul GER Alberto Lopez ESP - Vanda Michalkova SVK Complete results No nation dominated but Germany, who has had several years of not so good results, was the only country with three medals. Nicolas Collin was the only winner who also won the qualification. On average, the winners of the semifinal ended just as #4. One possible explanation for this is that the semi winner has the worst friction on the holds, as seven climbers have tried them for 35 minutes before they start.

It is said that tight cooperation among the Japanese climbers is part of their success. Everyone is participating in the sharing in order to optimize their performance which is also part of the Japanese culture. How the competition climbers cooperates during the observation is also something non-climbers are really fascinated about. This sharing culture is nice to follow and pick up on the federations Facebook pages. Almost every week, you read about how different nations have had some training sessions or have joined some local competitions. Another example of this is that four days before the World Cup in Munich, Boulderwelt invites competitors for a pre-comp down in semi mode on four problems. "After the simulation, the route setters will talk you through boulders, explain what their ideas was and give you feedback". It is free of charge and there are still some open spaces!

Laura Rogora reports on Facebook, "Unfortunatly a little injury in my finger stopped me from trying "Biographie". Anyway, Ceuse is full of beautiful lines to climb. Today I sent "Dures Limites" 8c." In total the 16 year old has done 12 routes 8c to 9a during the last 12 months and she is #1 in the female ranking game as well as in the Age and Gender bonus ranking game.