By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2006-01-16  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
 8a.nu

8a.nu Glossary - Another 100 is on it's way

flapper.jpg

Flapper

Monsterjump (2).jpg

Whipper!

deepwater (2).jpg

Deep Water Solo


8a/8A                            8a = route, 8A = boulder, worldwide standard by 8a
Beta                             Specific information on how to climb a route/boulder

Closed crimp/Open hand   Different finger positions

Crimper (C) /Sloper (S)     Different holds C = Small, sharp S = Big, smooth
DWS                               Deep Water Solo

FA/Trad/2:Go/Trav :         For the 8a scorecard - Check article
Flapper                            If the skin of your finger has been cut loose
Hang-dog                        Climb a route using bolts and quickdraws
Knee-drop/Highstep        Turning your knee inwards or outwards
Limestone, Granite, Grit  Different types of rock

Lock-off                          To lock your arm(s) in a static position
Matching                        Change hands (feet) on a hold
Morpho                             A boulder /(route) where it's good to be tall
Pof                                   Resin used in Fontaineb to get better friction
Polished                           Worn out (often) limestone without friction
Pull-in/Push out                Arms bending in or straighten out Article to come

Pump/Sustained                Long/even routes = Hard lactid acid forearms
Run-out/Whipper              Few bolts on a route - risk for whipper
Rope walking                     Walking a rope to get back on an overhang
Smearing                           Standing on friction only, no holds.
Spot                                  Protect/catch your bouldering partner 

8a.nu