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Blockhaus crew in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Sixth 8c onsight by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who just did Biographie 9a+, has onsighted his sixth 8c, Nuria in Cuenca. "So happy to be able to control everything all the way to the top."

Including also eleven 8b+ onsights, the 21 year old Pole should be among the Top-10 best onsight climbers in the world. The superior number one is Adam Ondra with 81 onsights between 8c and 9a. A possibly runner up is Kleman Becan with around ten 8c and 8c+ onsights. Here is an 8a onsight interview from 2005. The first climber to onsight 9a was Alex Megos with Estado Critico.

 
 
Nice 7C by Heiko Queitsch  Facebook
 

 
 
Gimme Kraft: Mobility for climbers - lower body  Facebook
 

 
 
Projecting a 9a after a bad accident - looking for uncertainty  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, with a personal best of 8c, started projecting Rainshadow 9a almost three years ago. In august lat year, she fell up-side-down and was taken to the hospital with a helicopter. In a Tedx event she explains her drive in climbing and that she is actually looking for uncertainty to meet her goals. In all, her talk is a lesson in mental training and part of why we all love climbing.

 
 
Four 8a's in a week by Cathy Wagner (52)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCathy Wagner, who has done 665 routes 8a and harder, has done four 8a's, the last week. Just during the last year the 52 year old has done 60 routes 8a and harder meaning she is having her most productive year ever. Is there any other female who has done more 8a's or has a more wide grade pyramid?

 
 
SLO & ITA dominated in Brunico  Facebook
 

In the Lead European Youth Cup in Brunico, Slovenia and Italy got nine medals out of which eight in the two oldest categories. Complete results

99: Filip Schenk ITA - Vita Lukan SLO
01: Luka Potocar SLO - Laura Rogora ITA
03: Ondřej Slezak CZE - Lucija Tarkus SLO

 
 
Rioupéroux bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ by Jakob Kronberger (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger who did his first out of six 9a's when he was 14 years old, has done Schneller als der Schatten 8c+ in Salzburger land.

"I've never sent a route this hard so quickly. The crux includes one of my favorite dynos in any route I've ever climbed. More info on his Insta.

 
 
9a by Adam Mach  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Mach has done two 9a’s; Acapulco extension and Stal Milec in Dolina Kluczwody. The katter was originally an 8c+ with artificiell holds which was taken out in 2012.

Probably I am the first who did both the most difficult routes in poland. At the beginning of this year I was able to train 2 times a day which probably resulted in some degree of success. When I work abroad I spend a lot of time on the trx handles of the wheel and kettle. I want to thank everyone that came with me to the cave and everyone who belayed me.

 
 
Jean-Claude Van Lamb (8B)  Facebook
 


Beta - Jean-Claude Van Lamb (8B), Blackwell Dale from David Mason on Vimeo.

 
 
9a FA link-up by Jon Cardwell  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who previously has done three 9a+' and often gives personal grades, has done the FA of Z Nation in Rifle, calling it a hard 9a. (c) Bearcam

"It's actually a link-up between three existing routes; Zulu, The Crew, and Bad Girls Club. I envisioned the link because another project I have in the canyon had some wet holds and I figured it would be a nice endurance challenge in the meantime. After climbing the first few bolts of Zulu, which is pretty bouldery, you get a good rest and then connect into the Crew via a pretty difficult boulder problem. After that, it's a pure endurance challenge to the end with the most difficult section coming at the last bolts of Bad Girls Club.

 
 
Amazing solo climbing by Raccoon  Facebook
 

 
 
Jerry Moffat and mental training  Facebook
 

R&I has published a long article where Jerry Moffat explains how he dealt with mental pressure. Jerry was one of the best climbers during the 80’s on rock but had problems to perform in comps.

A week or so later the proverbial light went on. I realized I didn’t need more power, or endurance. I didn’t need to lose weight. I needed to be strong mentally. I needed to know what exactly I should be thinking. If I couldn’t utilize my power or technique under pressure, I would never win."

 
 
Kaddi Lehman does Kryptos 8C  (34) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatrin "Kaddi" Lehmann has done Franz Widmer's Kryptos in Balsthal becoming the second women to do 8C. It has previously been repeated by Fred Nicole and Kevin Heiniger. She discovered it 15 months ago and since the end of last year she has been projecting it hard. More info on Black Diamond

“I knew in May I wouldn’t have much time. Since it was so warm already, I drove to the area after work late in the evening. I only arrived at midnight. Slept there, got up at 6am, had coffee and some breakfast, cycled or walked up to the boulder, tried some moves, cycled down to the car, drove back and went straight to work. It was hard to get up so early and try hard. People who know me, know that I am not really an early morning person. But all that effort was worth it. I thought even if it didn't work out, I had a nice time outside. And then on the 14th of May I was able totop out this boulder”. (c) Michael Steimle FA video.

 
 
Increased Japanese domination in Boulder WC  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2013, Japan was runner up in the Boulder World Cup ranking with 1 523 points behind Austria at 1 946. In comparison to the total Top-5 countries score, Japan got 21 %. This figure has been on a steady increase over the years and in 2018, they are 43 %.

 
 
8a Female Climbing Hero - Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on some 1 800 unique votes, Female Climbing Hero?, with 2017 figures in brackets, Margo Hayes were voted #1. Here is a short 8a interview after she did La Rambla 9a+. Later she has also done Biographie. (c) Matty Hong.

18 % Margo Hayes (15)
14 % Angela Eiter (11) and Lynn Hill (35)
13 % Alex Puccio (10)
10 % Barbara Zangerl
08 % Janja Garnbret (9), Akiyo Noguchi
04 % Shauna Coxsey (6), Josune Bereziartu (8)
02 % Sasha Digulian
05 % Other

 
 
Two 8As by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber has done two 8A's in Silvretta; High Society and X-Ray, "FINALLY! Took my Silvretta nemesis boulder down! Shitty conditions in the hole, kinda slippery and dampy next stop: Rocklands!" In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #7 with a perfect score of 10 000 points, having done ten 8A's the last 12 months.

 
 
Simon Brunner doing an 8B  Facebook
 


Felbertauern - Afterlife (fb 8B) from Simon Brunner on Vimeo.

 
 
Kruder vs Narasaki and Nonaka vs Noguchi in Munich  Facebook
 

The seventh and last Boulder WC will take place in Munich 17-18/8 and it is a two + two person battle. Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka are in forefront. Tomoa Narasaki needs to be #9 or better and beat Jernej to win and Akiyo Noguchi needs to be #2 and beat Miho to win. Complete rankings

 
 
How many have done 8a and harder?  Facebook
 

It is impossible to say how many have done an 8a. One way to come up with a guess is to use factor 3.5 for every grade. In practice, a factor 4 fits better for the the somewhat official stat we have for 9a to 9c but the history shows that many of them will probably get down graded. Anyhow, in one way, such calculation helps us to understand the width of the grades and how the grading system works.

1 = 9c (Ondra)
3.5 = 9b+ (Ondra, Sharma and Megos)
12 = 9b (Some 16 guys)
43 = 9a+ (Around 70 guys)
150 = 9a
525 = 8c+
1 838 = 8c
6 433 = 8b+
22 519 = 8b
78 815 = 8a+
275 854 = 8a

 
 
Trad in Frankenjura  Facebook
 

 
 
Mobility for climbers - upper body: Cafe Kraft  Facebook
 

 
 
Mason Earle and Ringlock Ranch  Facebook
 


Ringlock Ranch from Eddie Bauer on Vimeo.

 
 
Hukkataival opens a new sector in Rocklands  Facebook
 


Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands - The Realm from Kevin Takashi Smith on Vimeo.

 
 
Midtbö climbing for Vertical-Life gym points  Facebook
 

Magnus Midtbö, #4 in the WCH in 2011 and famous vlogger from Oslo Climbing Center, tries out Vertical-Life gym ranking challenge in order to get #1 in the annual global ranking in just one day. VL plan to set up such one day challenges during the autumn. There are now 65 gyms world wide connected to the system, having a digital updated topo. The scoring is a copy of the 8a ranking game and you can filter it in many more ways. Invite your gym to join Vertical-Life.

 
 
Vail gallery by Eddie Fowke  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio wins in Vail and Eddie Fowke has created a stunning gallery.

 
 
Highlights from Vail  Facebook
 

 
 
Japan dominates the overall ranking  (5) Facebook
 

1. Jernej Kruder 400 - Miho Nonaka 500
2. Tomoa Narasaki 396 - Akiyo Noguchi 495
3. Rei Sugimoto 322 - Fanny Gibert 305
4. Alexsei Rubtsov 296 - Stasa Gejo 222
5. Jongwon Chon 247 - Katja Kadic 202
6. Kokoro Fujii 233 - Janja Garnbret 180

The above ranking calculates all six events before the last event in Munich. Counting all but one, Tomoa and Akiyo are in the lead. Complete results

Country ranking
1. Japan 2269
2. Slovenia 1107
3. France 751
4. Austria 584
5. Russia 543

 
 
Excellent show in Vail with four Japanese on the podium  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Alex Puccio USA 33 - Rei Sugimoto JPN 34
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 23 - Sean Bailey USA 24:2
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 13 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24:3
Complete results

Alex Puccio, doing her first WC in 2018, was last out and flashed the boulder and secured the victory in front of her home crowd. All boulders were topped out. Among the male, Rei Sugimoto was in the lead before the last boulder which he could not top. Then it was Sean who on his flash attempt could not hold the swing on the top hold and the same situation later ocurred for Tomoa. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Semifinal Vail World Cup  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
Biographie 9a+ by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie in Céûse. More info on his Insta. In the ranking game, the 21 year old Pole is #3. (c)Jan Novak

”I’ve tried it a lot in July 2016, got very close but then the downturn began. I’ve tried to come back 3 times but there was always something disturbing and I wasn’t ready. Noe I came back stronger and mentally fresh and climbed it in the 4th day, just when the conditions and head made it possible. As you can see in my insta the send means so much to me, I’ve felt everything that you can feel on the project while trying Biographie.. so now Just pure happiness, relief and pride.”

 
 
Vail Bouldering WC: 8 Japanese Top-12 in qually  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe sixth and second last Bouldering World Cup 2018, starts today in Vail and there are 91 male and 58 female participating. Last year, 59 male and 55 female competed. Updated qualification results, 8 male Japanese Top-12. Gabri Moroni who won last week was #29 and failed to make semi. © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing


GMT-6
Saturday: 9:30-11:45 Semi (LIVE) - 14.45. Finals (LIVE)

 
 
8B+ by Rei Kawamata (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRei Kawamata, Youth Boulder World Champion last year, has signed up to 8a and added three 8B's and the well confirmed 8B+, UMA in Shiobara. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 14 year old is #5. More pictures on his also new Insta. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

 
 
Udo Neumann - Hips don't lie!  Facebook
 

Innsbruck 2018 has published an article by Udo Neumann analyzing hip movement in the last World Cup in Japan.

 
 
Dave Graham perspectives  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
The Carpenters Apprentice 8A+  Facebook
 


The Carpenters Apprentice 8A+ ○ Dinas Rock ○ South Wales from Morgan Preece on Vimeo.

 
 
Ted Kingsnorth (40) doing Just Do it 8c+  Facebook
 

 
 
8c, 8c/+ and 8c+ by Angie Eiter  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngela Eiter, the best female Lead competition climber in the history who last year did a 9b, has done some yet impressive ascents. In Frankenjura she has done Battle Cat 8c in just three attempts and there is more. (c) Bernie Ruech

Today I had a cool sending day in Allgäu in Germany! I completed "Basica 8c/+" and the combination "Andiamo, 8c+".

 
 
1.58.07 by Caldwell and Honnold  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have set their third Speed record of the almost 900 meters The Nose in Yosemite, 1.58.07. (c) John Evans

 
 
Leo Skinner at Parisella's cave  Facebook
 


Bouldering in Parisella's Cave from Leo Skinner on Vimeo.

 
 
9a by Jonathan Siegrist with figure four  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has onsigthed Wrongdoer 8b+ in Mt Charleston where he also did Arrested Development 9a. "Actually used a figure four! Enormous move at the third bolt was my crux."

Figure four means that you put your leg over your arm and almost sit on it in order reach further to a relatively small hold. More info and video sequence on his Insta In the 8a ranking game, the 167 cm tall is #4.

 
 
The Nose in 2.01.50 for Honnold and Caldwell  (3) Facebook
 

R & I reports that Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell has set a new Speed record of the 900 meters long The Nose in Yosemite, 2.01.50. Last week they did it in 2.10.15 so probably they will try to go sub 2 hours next.

 
 
9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle  (46) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has made the FA of Focus Pocus 9a+ in Jansegg and you have the full story here.

"The hardest single move of this first seven-moves-boulder is an extremely extended stretch out to a miniscule one finger pocket. It you don’t hit it well, you won’t hold it. If you are smaller than 1,80m you won’t reach out to the foot holds and when you don’t have my finger strength – I have to admit that my static power isn’t the worst neither – you won’t move at all in the whole sequence. And if you have thicker fingers than me – what should be the case for most of the very strongly trained high end climbers – you won’t even enter into this mono."

Pirmin has previoulsy done 20 routes 9a and harder out of which 14 FA, including two 9b'sand two 9a+'s.

 
 
Female Climbing Hero?  Facebook
 


 
 
Male Climbing Hero 2018  Facebook
 

Based on more than 1 500 unique votes, here are the results to - Male Climbing Hero? Results from 2017 in brackets.

33 % Adam Ondra (32)
16 % Alex Megos (7)
09 % Chris Sharma (17)
07 % Alex Honnold, Fred Nicole and Wolfgang Güllich (12)
05 % Tommy Caldwell (5)
03 % Dani Andrada (6) and Yuji Hirayama (3)
09 % Others

 
 
Niccolo Ceria Hidden Gems in Font  Facebook
 

 
 
Vertical-Life challenges with great prizes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvery month, Vertical-Life run different challenges with a chance for great prizes for everyone who "zlags" some hundred meters of climbing. The June VL Challenge is to climb 550 meters or some 120 boulders and you can be the winner of a free spot of a Rock buster Europe trip in September and many more prizes.

In the challenge you can also get an updated ranking for the gyms, the crags and the individuals zlagging most meters.

 
 
Euro Youth Cup Bouldering Delft  Facebook
 

France totally dominated the European Youth Cup in Bouldering in Delft with three golds and another four medals. Interesting is that Sandra Lettner, who was #4 in the only World Cup she has done this year, was also fourth among the ones born 01.

99: Peter Ivanov BUL - Mattea Pötzi AUT
01: Matteo Baschieri ITA - Favy Cohaut FRA
03: Paul Jenft FRA - Naile Meignan FRA

 
 
First 9a for Peter Dawson (19)  Facebook
 

Peter Dawson has done Rainshadow 9a in Malhalm. In the 8a Combined 8a ranking game, the 19 year old is #10. "My first 9a. A bouldery crux after Raindogs then a 8a+ power endurance fest."

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

 
 
8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

 
 
Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

 
 
9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

 
 
9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

 
 
Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

 
 
Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

 
 
Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).


Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

 
 
9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook
 

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

 
 
The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

 
 
Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

 
 
8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

 
 
8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook
 

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

 
 
8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

 
 
8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

 
 
8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

 
 
8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

 
 
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

 
 
Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

 
 
8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

 
 
First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

 
 
Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook
 

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

 
 
Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

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