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Raboutou and Nishidi Youth A Champions  Facebook
 

Brooke Raboutou and Hidemasa Nishidi are the Youth A Lead World Champions. Hidemasa is the only one in Moscow who topped all four routes and he actually cruised the final route. Two weeks ago, the 15 year old was #11 in the Arco WC. Last year Brooke was #9 in a Lead WC and #10 in a Boulder WC.

1. Brooke Raboutou USA - Hidemasa Nishidi JPN
2. Futaba Ito JPN - Luka Potocar SLO
3. Sandra Lettner AUT - Katsura Konishi JPN
Complete results

Interesting is that Alberto Gines, who was #7 in the last WC in Arco, was #5 and Laura Rogora was #6. The level in this category is extremely high and anybody in the final seems to also be able to be Top-15 also in the World Cup.

 
 
Udo Neumann - Factors deciding in Lead  Facebook
 

 
 
8B and 8A+ by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Quintessential 8B in Rocklands. © Chad Greedy In total, she has now done 47 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is runner up in the female ranking game.

"Psyched! Also I did Steak House 8A+ the other day! Not a crazy hard boulder but way outta my style so I’m pretty psyched about it... Gonna try and continue my theme of classic boulders still unclimbed by women."

 
 
3rd 9a by Julia Chanourdie  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic-Climbing reports that Julia Chanourdie, #4 in the Lead WC last year, has done La cabane au Canada 9a in Rawyl. In total, she just needed ten tries to do her thrid 9a which Adam Ondra onsighted in 2013.

"This ascent was important for me. My international lead competition season is over and stopped early, so it was hard to fix new goals. Since my first day in Rawyl, pleasure to go climbing was back and a new goal with. I currently have no idea about the next route, but why not one step harder?”"

 
 
8A #19 for Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

 
 
Jung interview on his trad 8c+++?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung started working on The Recovery Drink in 2012 together with Nico Favresse. Next year he was back when Nico did the FA and also in 2015 and 2017 he made long trips up to the remote Jössingfjord in Norway but no success. This year he was back and some holds broke, making it slightly harder. In the end he had to extend his trip with another four days, before taking down the possibly hardest trad route in the world. As Favresse, Daniel avoids giving a grade but what we know is that the German had to struggle at least as hard for when he did his two 9a+', La Rambla and Coruna.

Did you train specifically for doing the Recovery Drink?
After the first trip I did some stretching, I was struggling with one move, because I was too stiff. Also I set some volumes on a steep wall of our bouldering gym, Schlüsselstelle. I trained to rest in steep open handjams, that was really good to do. For my last trip, I just new that it is good to arrive with lots of power endurance. So I trained on long boulderproblems, mainly in the night, because it was too hot before 22:00. To train during the summer heat was a hard time.

What made this route so important so you did go back for three long dedicated trips?
The most important is to send my long time projecting in a beautiful place on a perfect wall. So the Jössingfjord fitted very well. Also, I was sure that I would be able to climb it. The process took a while, but why giving up when I feel close? Also I‘m very bad in giving up!

How does it compare also grade wise to the hardest sport routes you have done?
I really can’t compare the route, it’s an unique style, a totally different cup of tea compared to what I did before.

 
 
9a again by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his 17th 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco, which Adam Ondra put up this spring. " It would be a hard 9a if Adam wouldn't find this kneebar after the first section of the route, so it is "just" 9a." (c) Sara Grippo

In the Lead World Cup, the Italian is #2 after having won one event out of four. Currently he is training hard often in Innsbruck in order to prepare for the upcoming World Championship next month.

 
 
0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering  Facebook
 

As you probably know, based on the change in the IFSC bouldering rule, it is possibly to present the results as points. Last year I was part of a Working Group in IFSC invited to a meeting in Munich where I suggested one bonus point for a flash as well as increase to two zones.

One reason for this is to make competitions more fair based on how good the athletes did climb. Two zones will also reduce the risk for going home empty handed with zero zones, aka 0 points as happened often for 10 % of the field like in Moscow YWC.

Another way, or in a combination, to make the comps more fair and understandable for the spectators could be to give 0.1 point for touching (or controlling) the final hold with one hand. Alternatively, you can define the second zone as controlling the top with one hand.

It is simply not fair that one climber who just reaches the zone gets as good score as, or possibly even better, compared to the one who climbs several moves longer and falls matching the final hold. It should be mentioned that such unfairness happens more often for the ones further down the list who do not make several tops.

 
 
Total Japanese domination in Bouldering  Facebook
 

In total, Japan did get three golds and four bronzes. The runner up is France with one medal in each color and a total of five finalists. The big sensation is that Austria has just have had one athlete in the final which can be compared with 12 for Japan.

In 2017, Japan got nine youngsters on the podium and a total of ten finalists. The country that has dropped the most in 2018, is USA who got two golds and another two medals in 2017. This year, they just did get two in 6th position.

 
 
Two golds and bronzes for Japan in Youth B Bouldering  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan continues to dominate Bouldering in the Moscow Youth World Championship. In Youth B, they got two golds and two bronzes in great finals with almost perfect route setting were all boulders were done. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Rei Kawamata 44 - Natsuki Tanii 34 (6)
2. Thomas Podolan 34 (4) - Naile Meignan 34 (8)
3. Nukui Ryoei 34 (5) - Hana Kudo 24

Rei, who also won last year, did his first 8B+ this summer. He has no trainer and his training is just made of my working and repeating the high class boulders at his gym.

 
 
Dani Arnold sets new Speed record above Chamonix  Facebook
 

 
 
Honnold Free Solo Trailer  (2) Facebook
 

Alex Honnold sat a new standard in climbing by free solo the 30 pitches Freerider 7c (+) in Yosemite last year. In his scorecard, including 949 ascents, he commented, "Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a!"

The National Geographic documentary Free Solo is set to open on theaters September 28.

 
 
Avezou & Rogora winners in Youth A Bouldering  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of strange finals for Youth A in bouldering. A bit too easy for the boys and too hard for the girls. All three medalists among the male got almost identical results as they all did four tops in just five tries. The two best did take the four zones in five tries meanwhile the bronze guy needed five tries.

For the female, only two of the boulders were done and the winner, Laura Rogara flashed them both. (c) Eddie Fowke Complete results

1. Laura Rogora 23 - Sam Avezou 44 (5/4)
2. Lucka Rakovec 14 (4) - Eneko Carretero 44 (5/4)
3. Futaba Ito 14 (5) - Nathan Martin 44 /5/5)

Overall, Japan has been the best country in bouldering with one gold and two bronzes. The big sensation is that Austria has not had one finalists!

 
 
7C+ by Keegan Sullivan (8)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeegan Sullivan started climbing being four years old and did his first 7A being six years old. Now two years later he has done his first 7C+, Freedom Fries in Grayson Highlands State Park. Even more impressive is his grade pyramid made out of 101 recorded ascents. His father Brandon says the family focus is outdoors and just the last year they have traveled 29 times to twelve different locations, also including two younger brothers also pushing hard.

Our family was brand new to climbing just four years ago. Keegan would not be climbing at this level without the amazing support we have received from our local community. His gyms, coaches and teammates keep climbing fun. Our friends, the Collin and Kelly families, introduced us to crags, climbing technique, competitions, and to an even larger community.

Perhaps the thing that separates Keegan most from other youth climbers is his mature ability to project challenging problems. When arriving at a boulder, Keegan will set out the pads, clean and brush holds, and work all of the moves. Then he will meticulously link sections of the boulder until he finds a nice flow in the sequence. We routinely see him work problems with intense focus and persistence, sometimes lasting hours and multiple
sessions.”

 
 
Slaney & Narasaki take first bouldering golds  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHanna Slaney, who never has stood on a IFSC podium before, won the first bouldering gold in Moscow after having been #12 in the qualification and #4 in the semi. Among the boys, Meichi Narasaki, who was second last year in both Lead and Boulder, arrived on top. It was a perfect start thrilling to end with perfect route setting by Jacky Godoffe and his crew. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 

 
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 

Excellent start of the Youth World's in Moscow with great boulders on volumes and 02.30 PM GMT+3 (Euro 13.30) the junior finals in bouldering starts. Among the male, three Japaneses were ahead in the semifinal and for the female, there were two from Slovenia and one from Japan in the top.

In the Youth A category, with the finals on Sunday, two Japanese girls stood out and among the boys, Sam Avezou, who was #16 in Speed, was the only one with four tops in the semi.

 
 
Åland and Västervik in 25+ degrees  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
8c and 8b+' by Chaehyeon Seo (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChaehyeon Seo, who last week did her first 9a, has done Wacka Flocka 8c and the two 8b+'in Rifle; Simply redlined and Zulu. In the 8a ranking game, the 14 year old is #2.

Chaehyeon's father, Jungkuk was #10 in an Ice WC in 2015 and in 2016 he did an 8b+ in Red River Gorge. Back home in Korea, he is a youth trainer in his own gym in Korea. Her mother, Chigon is also an 8a climber and has participated in some World Cups.

 
 
Cody Roth under the radar interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbing has presented an interesting under the radar interview with Cody Roth (34). He has been a very dedicated climber half his life although not following the mainstream and thus staying under the radar in spite recently doing his first 9a+, being #6 in his first Lead WC being 19 years old, made the first repeat of a Manolo 8b+ and also done hard sport routes on trad. Insta mainly non-climbing focus.

Having grown up in the outskirts of Albuquerque, New Mexico, I’m not used to being around a lot of people, so crowded crags don't make me happy,” Roth told Climbing over the phone from his seasonal home in one of the world’s most remote places, Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. There he does rope access work in oil fields seven days a week, 12 to 16 hours a day, for 24 weeks a year, before taking the rest of the year off to climb with his wife."

Now Cody and his wife Melissa have started to work for Vertical-Life and they will be moving to Brixen in the autumn working with sales, development and content. Just recently, they introduced the first U.S. climbing gym to the VL app, Crux Climbing Center, in their current home town Austin.

 
 
V6 Parody Rapping  Facebook
 

 
 
First 8A+ by Maria Davies Sandbu  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu has after 15 8A'a done her first 8A+, Steinbukken in Dirdal. (c) Martin Mobråten

"Had probably 15 sessions over the last 3 years. I learned to stay patient and try hard no matter the conditions.. I had some epics with the conditions/weather on this one, probably half of the sessions were in the rain and Martin had to dry/prep the holds while I was climbing :) one session we even tied up a tarpaulin over the boulder to try and keep it dry... eventually all the work payed off though!"

 
 
Youth World's in Moscow has begun  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Youth World Championship started today in Moscow with the Junior Bouldering Qualifications, updated results. In total, 699 youth athletes from 5 continents and 43 countries will participate. Full schedule 9th to 16th August.

"Every semi-final and final round in Moscow will be live streamed on the IFSC homepage, and follow scores from your phone by downloading the “YWCH 2018” results application. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Ghisolfi agrees to 8a flash ethics  Facebook
 

Stefano Ghisolfi has published some interesting thoughts on his Insta which goes in hand with the 8a suggested ethics.

"About my recent post, I think if 2 routes share a part it is not possible to flash both. So, my second one it is not flash, but first go! But I think there should be some exceptions, like if the part in common is much easier that doesn't add any difficulty, maybe it is possible to consider both flash. The most important thing is to be very fair with yourself and the others and tell clearly everything you do."

 
 
9a by Ryan Sewell  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyan Sewell has done his second 9a, Moonshine in Wild Iris. Video of the ascent (c) Jacob Mutchler-Brown

"It took around 12 tries total. I first tried it during the summer of 2017 to see how it would feel but didn't return that season. This year I went out to The Wild Iris with the goal of doing Moonshine specifically. I put in a few goes to dial in the body positions, because with a route that's only 24 moves every move needed to be executed precisely. Over three weekends this summer I had six attempts falling on the crux move- a dynamic stab to a slot that's only good for two fingers (photo is of this move.)

In the end, the time I stuck the move I went to the top. The route definitely suits my style being that it's more bouldery and powerful. The pockets are actually much nicer that it might seem and the movement is excellent. BJ TIlden is the routes developer and first ascensionist and he did an amazing job with this route and so many others at The Wild Iris. We all have so much appreciation for everything he's done for the Wyoming climbing community."

 
 
The Recovery Drink 8c+++? by Daniel Jung  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung comes with the amazing news on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Nico Favresse’s The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord in Norway from 2013. Nico did not suggest a grade of the 35 meter trad route but saying it was his hardest ever crack. In fact, 8c+ or harder have been mentioned by very experienced trad climbers having tried it.

Comparing it to 9a sport routes, this just might be as hard or even harder than some but it seems trad grades, currently going to 8c+, use another scale. One reason for this could be that in trad you are supposed to place all gear on lead meanwhile in sport climbing this ethics were left in the beginning of the sport era. It should be mentioned that Daniel, who has done La Rambla 9a+, did place on lead menwhile Nico left some gear in place on easier sextions saying a more pure ascent could be done. (c) Fred Moix

 
 
8B (A+) by Alizee Dufraisse  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizee Dufraisse has done The Arch 8B (A+) in Rocklands. In the 8a ranking game, the former successful competition climber who also have done La Reina Mora 9a (8c+), is #6.

"I start trying this project this year and it took me eight sessions, it was hard to manage with my brain because I was really close for a long time but the temperatures were hot!!! I'm really happy to have finally send it today!! Now I can try new boulders :)"

 
 
9a FA by Thibault Lair again  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThibault Lair has done his third 9a FA in Bielsa, My little princess after 15 days of projecting.

"It has the same start as "Soul surfer". A first part that must make a big 8c. Then comes a bad rest before attacking the hard section and then there is 15 meters of climbing where you have to fight the resistance. For me, the second part is also worth 8c. Thanks to Daniel Fuertes for bolting it."

 
 
The Schengen Files from 2011 by Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
IN OWN MATTER: Designers and Software Engineers wanted  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureProject and After Sales Manager
Are you an organisational and communication talent? As a Project and After Sales Manager at Vertical Life, you will work closely with different divisions of our team, above all with Sales, Support and Marketing. Among other tasks, you will be responsible for account management and support, after sales marketing, relevant promotional activities and performing other tasks needed to ensure customer satisfaction. You will also be involved in the strategic communication planning and in the creation of campaigns. As our company is growing fast, new ideas are welcome and your self initiative is required.
Job and application details

UX / UI Designer
Are you enthusiastic about user experience design? Do you enjoy the challenge of transforming strategic customer journeys into appealing interface design? Vertical-Life is looking for an experienced UX Designer for mobile and web projects. You will be joining our highly motivated team of climbers, business strategists, product managers, designers, engineers, and merchandisers. You will be working on user experience strategies for our existing apps and websites as well as for new projects from the ground up.
Job and application details

Software Engineer Mobile
As a software engineer with focus on iOS and/or Android mobile development, you will develop next-generation, large scale mobile apps. You support our team in existing projects, as well as manage individual products, priorities, deadlines and deliverables. You develop, test, deploy, maintain and enhance software solutions.
Job and application details

Applications to: careers@vertical-life.info

 
 
Schenk and his crew in Céüse up to 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
8B flash and an 8C by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta that he has flashed Eskimo Brothers 8B in Topside and done the first repeat of Paul Robinson's recent The Pirate's Code 8C in Three Corners. "Sent on my 3rd night session. It bakes in the sun all day, so night sessions are the way to go.(c) Chikara Ishizuka

Daniel has been one of the very best climbers in the world during the last 15 years having done 20+ routes 9a to 9b, 20+ boulders 8C and 8C+, flashed 8B+ and won a Boulder WC in 2010.

How was the 8B beta flash story?
Haha that one was a bit better. I got the flu a couple nights before and was up all night vomiting. After a rest day I knew I had to get out of bed and get the blood flowing to feel better. After an intense uphill hike, I got to some easier problems and felt ultra weak on them. I wanted to try something harder so checked out Paul's (Robinsons) crimp line, Eskimo brothers. The condis were perfect and the line straight forward, so I decided to try and flash it and then it just happened

How much beta did you get?
Actually no beta. Was probably more onsight, but since you can grab every hold from the ground it takes away that true onsight feel. To be honest its hard to truly onsight lower boulders due to that. Was pretty stoked. I'm not the best first try climber haha, so when I get that experience it feels good.

Do you not forget your big flash of Nicole's Entlige? (A confirmed 8C that now is 8B+.)
Haha, ya that was another lucky moment.

 
 
8B (A+) by Jule Wurm  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJule Wurm, world champion in 2014 who retired from the scene in 2015 after having won the European Championship, has done Fragile Steps 8B (A+) in Rocklands.

How is your life and climbing nowadays?
Life is good! It’s great to be in Rocklands! I spent a year in the US last year for my studies and did neuroscience research for my MD thesis. Did lots of climbing while being in Boston, broke my ankle in spring climbing outdoors and then broke my arm in a gym there in the beginning of October.

How did you train to speed up the recovery?
For my arm I had surgery right after the accident and they put two metal implants to fix the fractures. Recovery went slower then I had wished, but I tried to listen to my body and did whatever felt okay. I returned to Germany earlier this year to finish med school and did lots of training to get in shape for Rocklands.

Lots of fingerboarding, board sessions on a 45 degree wall and TRX training. There still are some hand positions that don’t feel comfortable for my arm, but all in all I’m very happy with where I am climbing wise!

What kind of job are you looking for and how will you combine this with hard core climbing?
I'm not really sure yet what I wanna do later. I either wanna do research again or work as a doctor, or maybe some kind of public health related job not really sure yet. And of course I hope to always find enough time for climbing no matter what job I will do.

 
 
Boulder "problem" topo for Moravian Karst  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"Bouldering in Moravian Karst is a strange discipline..." By reading Adam Ondra's describing his backyard training area and checking the topos you understand that we are more talking about problems like in the gym rather then doing boulders in Font or Rocklands.

Another striking thing is the extremely steep looking 5C's next to a 7C. If some of the low graded boulders are not severely sandbagged there are several future classical super juggy to be found. On the contrary, Lidomorna should be the hardest cave for bouldering in whole world (5x 8C and harder, 5x 8B and harder just on few square meters). Free Digital version or buy the printed version.

 
 
Cardwell's perspective from Spain last winter  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Respect @Silvapark  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture“Recently, climbers destroyed fixtures in the bath room facilities at the parking spot Silvapark Galtür. The "Bergbahnen Galtür" provides parking spaces, waste buckets, toilets and washing rooms. They also put up a fountain for us! It took years of discussions with the authorities to get the permission to drive up there and, I think, we’ve finally reached an amazing agreement.

Right now, we are allowed to camp for FREE, but if there are more problems in future, this permit will be revoked. I was informed by "Bergbahnen Galtür" that many campers leave their tents during the day, making it impossible for cars to park. I am happy that they still give us the opportunity to solve our problems, so that bouldering at Silvapark remains a comfortable experience for everybody. So, please keep the place clean and think about other climbers when putting up your tent up there!”

Bernd Zangerl

 
 
Second 8A+ by Leah Dempsey  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLeah Dempsey has done her second 8A+, Myology in XXXX. In the female 8a ranking game the Australien is #9. (c) Matt Norgrove

 
 
Ondra practice during his knee injury  Facebook
 

 
 
International Climbing Survey  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAre you a passionate rock climber? Do you prefer climbing in the gym? How can your climbing gym improve their service? Share your thoughts in the climbers’ survey – as a reward, you will get a climbing guidebook of your choice in the Vertical-Life Climbing app.

This international survey is intended to learn more about climbers’ habits and their requirements for climbing gyms. The results will be published in special interest media and will be shared with climbing gyms and route setters.

You can take the survey in English or in German

 
 
9a FA by Ramonet again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamon Julian Puigblanque, the double lead world champion, has done his 14th 9a FA Escalfit in Collsuspina. "A project of many years very similar to Frankenjura, today I have done the first ascent! Now for more! (c) Riki Kalamontse

In total the 36 year old and 159 cm tall has done 50 routes 9a and 9a+. Including also 20 World Cups win the last 18 years, he should be considered one of the best climbers in the world since 2000.

 
 
Climbing is for everyone – „Klettern kann jeder“  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers Paradise Tirol, together with Black Diamond and Tirol Werbung, started a charity campaign for Paraclimbing Austria – climbers with disabilities. The purpose of „Klettern kann jeder“ is to support paraclimbers in training and competitions. The organizers send out a crash-pad-couch that travels through Tirol’s climbing crags, meeting paraclimbers, families, pros and locals. For the climbing world championships, the couch will return to Innsbruck. It will be signed by the designated world champions and raffled among all donors.

In the picture Hannes Mayer. Kick-off video Here you can support Paraclimbing Austria and „Klettern kann jeder“: Paraclimbing.net

 
 
FAs by Paul Robinson in SA incl 8C  Facebook
 

 
 
9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureChaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done."

Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."

 
 
Olympic prediction  Facebook
 

The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just nine months. Here is a speculation of who got the best chances for getting the Olympic gold.

1. Tomoa Narasaski - Janja Garnbret
2. Adam Ondra - Miho Nonaka
3. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi
4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Claire Buhrfeind
5. Yushiyuki Ogata - Shauna Coxey
6. Alex Megos - Stasa Gejo

 
 
Speed and Lead Highlights from Arco  Facebook
 

 
 
8b+ (c) flash by Loic Timmermans  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLoic Timmermans has flashed Face Bouc in Ailefrode giving it a personal grade of 8b+. "Amazing line and really interesting moves. Heel hook was key. Not pumpy enough for 8c?" (c) Chloe Caulier

Last year he was #5 in the Lead WC in Chamonix and in 2018 his best is #13 and in the last event in Arco he was #17.

 
 
Ondra, Desgranges and Messner awarded in Arco  Facebook
 

Rock Master Festival reports that Reinhold Messner got the Climbing Ambassador award, Adam Ondra the Wild Country Rock award and Romain Desgranges La Sportiva Competition award.

It should be mentioned that Adam said he thought Angela Eiter better deserved the award for being the first female to do a 9b.

 
 
8A+ (b) Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

 
 
Brooke Raboutou in Cafe Kraft  Facebook
 

 
 
Lead World Cup 2018 after four events  Facebook
 

1. Jakob Schubert 335 - Janja Garnbret 380
2. Stefano Ghislofi 286 - Jessica Pilz 340
3. Alex Megos 230 - Anak Verhoeven 181
4. Domen Skofic 228 - Manon Hily 167
5. Romian Desgranges 201 - Ashima Shiraishi 159
Complete results

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ FA by Loic Zehani (15)  Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who previously has done three 9a's, has done the FA of Concerto in Orgon, video. In the 8a ranking game, the 15-year-old is #10.

"The route was bolted by Alexandre Serres and Olivier Bert. It is 40 moves without any rest. The first part is kind of a traverse with a lot of little pinches and a lot of feet moving. It is the nicest part and after you go straight."

 
 
8C (B+) by Baptiste Ometz (17)  Facebook
 

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic."

It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
First 8c by Daniel Martian (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Martian, who started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8b+ in 2003, has done his first 8c by the FA of Tour de Lion in Lion's head.

"Link-up between Maxi Pista and Lion's Head Express but mega-good!!! Some of the best steep rock and movement at LH. Tentatively rated .14b but it will need to be confirmed. Started to work on it 4 seasons ago but "seriously" committed the last two seasons. Lots and lots of tries until I brought this beautiful stone down to my level."

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!"

The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

 
 
Bad Girls Club 9a by Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes, who earlier this spring did two 8c+'s, has done the first female ascent of Bad Girls Club 9a in Rifle. "Hey boys, I'm joining the club. Officially a bad girl."

The 18-year-old made her first headline five year ago, doing her first out of three 8A boulders. Last year, she was #6 in a Boulder World Cup and got silver in both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship.

 
 
Wallstreet 8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring being 14 years old, has done a fast ascent of the classic Wallstreet 8c in Frankenjura. As a preparation, she competed in the European Bouldering Championship last weekend and was #2.

- I can't believe it!!!! On my second day here Frankenjura, despite the rain, I was able to send my little project: Wallstreet 8c in only 6 tries. Climbing this historical and beautiful line was amazing!

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Carole Palmier: a 28 year old rising star  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarole Palmier climbed intensively as a teenager but then studying to become a midwife took over. During the last five years she has been combining her exciting work with her climbing life, without having any sponsor although she has done 8c's and an 8c+. (c) Isabelle Bihr

- I climb twice a week during working periods, and I try to take 2 months of for holidays each year to travel an climb. I would like to take more holidays next year. I don't train, I have a lot of progress to do to improve my climbing lifestyle. I like enjoying life without thinking only "performance". I feel strong when I manage to fight in routes I'm trying. The best way to train for me is to give the best every time I go climbing and it works!

My future plan and ambition is to spend more time climbing! I would like to pass my limits, and see what I can do if I only climb and train my weaks points. My climber's dream is to be in my best level in all climbing styles including; cracks, multi-pitch, Frankenjura style, boulder.

 
 
9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger again  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part."

In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

 
 
9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  (1) Facebook
 

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

 
 
9a (8c+) by Mar Álvarez (36)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMar Álvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9a´s, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down.

- An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

 
 
Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbö  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaro Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbö are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire.

In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

 
 
Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamás Zupán  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher.

"Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

 
 
Delirium 8C by David Graham  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull

- Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm ⚡️⚡️⚡️ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan

- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)

Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).


Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

 
 
9a FA by Ivaylo Fazata in Bulgaria  Facebook
 

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!!

Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

 
 
The Crew 8c+ for Margo Hayes (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes has done her second 8c+, The Crew in Rifle, and goes to #2 place in the 8a ranking game. "Never let go. That last attempt can be magical." (c) Jon Glassberg

Joe Kinder comments on Facebook, "It makes me proud to see a young climber girl like Margo representing our sport in a real and sincere way, a way that us core climbers believe in. GREAT JOB MARGO!!!!!!"

The 18-year-old, who was #2 in the Youth Lead Championship last year, has competed four times in the Boulder World Cup in the last two years, always made it to the semifinal and once got into the final.

 
 
Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

- I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

 
 
Pirmin Bertle does a 9a FA in Patagonia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this:

"The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefano Carnati (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries.

- I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves!

Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

 
 
8c by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

 
 
8c+ by Rafa Fanega (41)  Facebook
 

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

 
 
8c+ by Lena Herrmann in Frankenjura  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4.

"Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"

 
 
8A+ FA again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Peace Frog Sit in RMNP, which is her third 8A+ FA. "Really psyched, its a classic ! Undercling POWER, the Boulder sits under the glass tower and up canyon a lil."

Add the only female 8B FA, which she did last month and she is kind of superior in the FA category. In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #2, after Alex Puccio.

 
 
8B+/C FA by Dai Koyamada (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who has been one of the leading climbers over the last 20 years, reports on Instagram that he has put up yet another great line. "Miracle happened! Last night I did it! So glad to established this line which I found last June and dream to send. Definitely this is the one of my best FAs ever. Tentatively V14/15. Hope anyone else evaluate it. Name, it's 'NEHANNA'.

 
 
8a onsight by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

 
 
The Wheel of Life 9a (8C) by Alex Barrows  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays.

Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

 
 
Alex Megos does Hubble 8c+ (9a)  (37) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world."

- 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton

 
 
8b again by Cathy Wagner (50)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

 
 
First 9a by Maxime Clerc  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Maxime Clerc has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. It should be noted that previously he has done Abyss, which he gave a personal 8c+ grade. (c) Adrien Ragiot

- Trip Tik Tonik is among the most beautiful 9a's on the planet and we must specify on this crag, completely natural.

 
 
8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood.

In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

 
 
Nathan Williams (17) flashes 8A+  (2) Facebook
 

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

 
 
Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Ondra does Geocache 9a+ in a day  (6) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries.

- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

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