
8 August 2017
OHM - A future smashing success
My 19 kg son tried belaying me at 67 kg for the very first time and thanks to the OHM it worked great. Olle was really pleased to have full control and I had to climb up two meters several times so he could lower me down.
- Dad! This is cool. How does it work?
- The OHM in the first bolt assists small belayers by creating friction.
- I want to try again. Now I can work as your belayer when you are drilling.
It should be noted that the official Edelrid manual says,
"Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg".
The OHM is first of all produced to assist lighter belayers when their partner takes a fall. Often in a gym or even outdoors you see smaller belayers attached to some kilos of sand or so. It says that the OHM does not increase the rope drag for the lead climber but when we tested the device on a slab, sometimes it rotated and some ropedrag was created. On steeper terrain we noticed almost no increased ropedrag.
I do think this will be a smashing success especially for families with kids. I will certainly not allow my kid to belay me climbing for several years but in order to get everyone more involved, I will let Olle, under my careful supervision, belay his little brother. I am very sure they will be both very proud and it is very good for them to learn the safety protocol and how to trust each other.
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