Maxi Karrer has done Der heilige Gral (9a) in Frankenjura. It is one of the longest routes in Frankenjura following a big archway and everyone has given it five stars in the 8a database.

"I started thinking about the route when I began my studies in Erlangen 6 years ago. From there it is just a 30 minutes drive to the crag but I never felt strong enough to climb a 9a. Over the years I could climb some 8c routes and 2 years ago the FA of Laktatsturm (8c+) was my first 8c+. From that time the route “Der heilige Gral” was back in my mind!

After checking out the moves I was sure that it was possible for me. In the next season 2021, the crag was often very wet! This is one of the main problems while trying the route. So no chance for me to climb it. This year, after my exam, I felt good and had the time to try it again. The route was dry and with a very fast send of I bleed black (8c+) 3 weeks before, I was super motivated! The route starts with some easy moves in the overhang. After that, there is a hard mono section which is followed by a crazy no-hand rest. From this point, you have to climb 8c to the top. All in all, I needed around 10 sessions doing it. For sure one of the best lines in Frankenjura 😊."

On the second day of the Lead qualification in the Youth World Championship in Dallas, the Japanese youngsters continued being very high up in the rankings. In Boys U-18, Shion Omata Japan won ahead of Toby Roberts from Great Britain and interestingly Japan had four boys in the Top-7.

Among the Boys U-16, Riki Isihara Japan and Luka Nündel Germany were tied #1 and in Girls U-16, Anastasia Sanders USA and Natsumi Oda Japan were tied #1.

The live-streaming from the semifinal for the U-20 and also for the Girls U-18 starts 15.45 Euro Time.

Simon Lorenzi, who last year did the FA of Soudain seul (9A) after 26 sessions, reports on Insta that he linked Shawn Raboutou's Alpahane 9A in two parts after just five warm sessions. "The line and moves are amazing. 💎It's an incredible mix of strength, tension and technicity! I've found the style quite unique and complex since most of the difficulty comes from keeping your feet on the wall and pull enough in it to optimize the hand holds." (c) Oriane Tollebeek

Were you surprised to do so good links so quickly?
I didn't know what to expect when I arrived. I took it step by step and yes I was quite surprised and very happy to make those links in warm conditions.

What is the crux for you?
For me, it's a kind of power endurance on 8-10 moves where you have to keep the tension all the way long.

What is next? Putting up a replica?
First, I'm going to train for the combined comp in Japan at the end of October. In November I will go back to Alphane.

The Belgian has been an active competition climber since 2011. In 2016, he won the Youth Lead Championship, and this year he won the Euro Boulder Cup in Brixen. The 25-year-old has previously also done four 8C+ meaning that if he sends Alphane, he will be a contender for having the most impressive tick list in the world.

On the first day of the Lead qualification in the Youth World Championship in Dallas, Japan dominated as they also did last year. In the oldest girls category, Natsuki Tanii was the only one to top out both routes. Runner-up on both routes was Nonoha Kume also from Japan. Results Girls U-20.

Among the oldest boys, Zento Murashita was #1, followed by Connor Herson from the USA and Junta Sekiguchi. Interestingly, Japan had four in the Top-8 and USA three. Results Boys U-20.

In the Girls U-18, Alex Totkova from Bulgaria won ahead of Sara Copar from Slovenia who got the gold in Boulder. Results Gilrs U-18

Jane Švecová (Vincourkova), who did her first 8B+ this spring, has made the FA of Margo (8B) in Moravský kras, video.

"I was originally trying Janja SD (8B+) from Martin Stráník. Unfortunately, I couldn't reach most of the holds and the major parts of the moves were impossible for me. While my husband kept trying Janja I decided to entertain myself and kept trying it, I found a completely different way for the crux. The first three to four moves are the same, but then I continued with the moves further up in the roof, so I decided to make a new boulder from it. I've been struggling with one, I would say, the crux move, but then Lucie Hrozová visited me and she came out with a very different beta which suited me even better. Then there was a really hard foot exchange which took me most of the time, to do it.

It is crazy to say but even in the summer, there could be close to five-degree celsius by the boulder, so for many days, I was struggled with cold, or with a wet rock because of the moisture coming from the cave below the boulder. On day eight or so I finally saw some progress. Then the weather was really poor and I had a lot of work, so I was just hang boarding a lot. After a month I got time to get back, and we came to the crag, I warmed up in some easy boulders and sent the project first go. I didn't expect it, everything was just perfect, I just kept going and all of the sudden, I was at the top. So yeah, it was very fast send that day, I decided calling it Margo as it is as well an iconic climber as Janja and the style of this climb is similar to what you can see from Margo, for-example in LaRambla 🙂"

Yannick Flohé, who has been Top-7 in all eight WC's he has done in 2022, has been on a quick trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+ boulder problems. In the 8a ranking game he is #4 and that is also his position in the IFSC Lead and Boulder rankings 2022.

"It was my first time in Magic and I really enjoyed it. The first three days started with rain so I checked out Ill Thrill (8B+) and did The Never Ending Story (8B+) and Power of Now (8B+) which stay dry except for the last hold. Power of Now only took a couple of tries but Ill trill felt hard for me because it’s so technical with lots of heel hooks. On my last day, I made a quick ascent of Believe in two (8B+). It’s a rarely repeated 8B+ that shares the same start as Steppenwolf. I also tried In search of time loss in the Darkness cave but It was too hot to try hard. But luckily I’ll come back straight after the Koper WC in two weeks 😄."

Camilla Moroni, who recently was #9 in both Lead and Boulder in the Euro Championship, has done four 8As while on a three day trip to Silvretta.

"After the European Championship in Munich I went three days in Silvretta for a little break before my last international competition of the year, the Lead WC in Koper. Since my trip lasted only three days I decided not to try too hard boulders and to enjoy the new place. It was really good climbing some beautiful lines at 2000 metres surrounded by mountains. During this little break, I managed to send Diamond Nuts (8A), Pretty Belinda (8A), Shining (8A) and . I climbed the last two boulders on the same day but I had already tried them on the first day. In the next month probably I will come back to Magic Wood to send some old projects of the last year. And this winter I'd like to send some hard boulders in Ticino like Heritage (8B+)."

Lilli Kiesgen has done Sofa Surfer 8A (+) in Magic Wood. "Our trip was only eight days long and we had two rainy days. On this trip, I was motivated to try hard stuff for the first time. I checked out many different boulders. On Sofa Surfer the single moves felt doable in my first session. I came back two days later and it went down pretty fast☺️ I think the style and the moves suited me very well."