Martina Demmel reports on Insta that she has done Deltaplane man direct (8c+) in Entraygues. The 20-year-old started climbing in 2017 and already in 2019, she onsighted her first, out of six, 8b's. Last year she did her first 9a and onsighted her second 8b+ and she was actually #1, ahead of all males, in the 8a onsight ranking game. Unfortunately, the year ended with a broken foot after a massive fall in Oliana. Since 2020, she has done most World Cups and her best result is #15. (c) Fabian Herentrey

How is your broken foot and how do you combine outdoors and competitions?
Thanks for asking, my foot is all good again since March, so I was definitely lucky that I could climb without any limitations after three months already😁! Overall, my main focus shifted to preparing well for the lead comps the upcoming years especially because I'm gonna start an education with a special program for national team members of all sports. It's perfect to combine training and learning a job at the same time + to have a safe place where to work later😊 therefore, way less rock climbing in the next years but I'm still trying to fit in 1-2 days on the weekends🌞! But first, the last Lead WC's of the season are coming.

Hugo Hoyer and Anastasia Sanders, both from the USA, got the golds in the Youth B category in Dallas. Sanders flashed all four problems and won on countback over Natsumi Oda from Japan who also just needed four tries doing all four boulders. "I didn’t feel a lot of pressure this competition because I knew I could do all the Boulders and I was capable of flashing all of them, I just need to be a little bit careful.” Interestingly, the final boulders were way easier than both the qualification and semi-rounds. Complete results

Hugo Sanders did three boulders as also the runner-up Matteo Reusa from Italy did. “I love that style of Boulder,” Hoyer commented on the final problem. “And when I came out to preview I thought it looked like a fun Boulder. I knew if I topped it I would be in a good place. I pulled up and swung and came off the first time but thought I can do this, and the second time around I stuck it. After that I was really happy.”Complete results

Clément Lechaptois, who previously has done five 8C's, has done Monkey Wedding (8C) in Rocklands. "I tried Monkey Wedding back in 2021 and was close to sending but unfortunately I wasn't able to finish the job. This year it went quite fast on the second day trying the boulder. Good friends were there, I was chill, so that has been a good time. Thanks Fred Nicole for another great classic! (c) Marine Thevenet

What are your autumn plans?
Climbing around home in Valais and Chamonix. Then probably a bit of Ticino :)

Any specific projects? Maybe Fuck the System. I've already invested quite some time in it so it would be amazing to try to finish it off. Otherwise I don't know yet

Japan has had a great start in the Youth World Championship in Dallas getting five medals including one gold by Ritsu Kayotani in the boys U-18. He and also the silver medalist, Toby Roberts from GBR, were the only youngsters doing all 14 problems, among the two + two oldest categories. Complete results

Among the oldest boys, Hannes Van Duysen from Belgium, who recently was #12 in the Lead Euro CH in Munich, won being the only won doing three boulders. "Doing World Cups I’ve had to train more and get smarter during simulations because of the level of competition. That has really motivated me to train harder and the extra training has shown." Complete results

In the girls U-18, Sara Copar won each round actually by doing at least one boulder more the all the others. In the finals, the Slovenian needed just five tries doing the four boulders. Last year she got the gold in Lead in the YWCH and this year the 17-year-old's best World Cup result is #12 in Lead. "I came here to enjoy and make it to finals, maybe the podium. I didn’t know what to expect actually. But qualification was good. Then semis was good. Then the final was crazy, it all seemed to be happening so fast. “I’m just so happy. I don’t care what is going on anywhere else, I just wanted to climb and enjoy myself and that’s what I did. Everything seemed to go to plan and now I’m so happy.” Complete results

Zélia Avezou from France, sibling to Sam who recently was #2 in the Munich ECH, did win U-20 being the only one doing all four problems and she also won each round. Zélia's oldest brother Leo has also won several events as a junior and their mother Cecile was one of the very best Speed climbers in the mid-90'ies. Complete results

The youngest boys and girls had their semi yesterday and highest up in the ranking were Augustine CHI, USA - 4T4z 5 4 and Lucy GARLICK, GBR - 4T4z 6 4. Here is the full IFSC report with more quotes.

On the second day of the Youth World Championship in Dallas, Youth B had their boulder qualification. Among the Male Youth B only seven Europeans made it to the semifinal and the best was #7 in the qualification. Among the girls, Anastasia Sanders from USA was the only girl who topped all six problems at the same time 53 % did not make one top. Complete results Youth B.

In the Female Juniors semifinal, only the winner Zelia Avezou made two Tops and most of the girls did not make any Top. Among the boys, 18 out of 20 made at least two tops. It should be mentioned that during all rounds in Dallas, the girls have topped out significantly fewer boulders compared to the male.

Antoine Girard has repeated Nalle Hukkataival's classic, in Rocklands. Video on his Insta.

"It was in 2019, during my first trip to Rocklands I saw Finnish Line for the first time. I found this line amazing, it was, without doubt, the most beautiful boulder I had ever seen. When I left South Africa, I promised myself to come back and try this bouldering when I will be strong enough. With COVID, 3 years passed without me being able to put my fingers in this boulder. I had to wait until August 2022. I arrived in Rocklands with this unique objective of climbing the Finnish Line, so I put everything in place to realize this dream. I organized all my climbing sessions around this project, trying to not invest myself too much in other hard boulders in order to keep skin and strength. I spent 9 sessions in the block divide in 3 weeks. It is a boulder that requires really important logistics. Falling is almost forbidden on the last two meters of the boulder, so I started all my sessions by repeating, again and again, the end of the boulder which must be worth 7B. Then I put tries in the crux (still with rope) and I ended my session by putting 4 or 5 tries from the bottom. The complexity of bouldering lies in the fact that the holds are extremely sharp, which considerably limits the number of attempts at each session and at the same time it is also very difficult to try this boulder every single day. All these constraints together allowed me to try the crux about 10 times per session and to put 3 sessions per week.

This is clearly the boulder that required me the most physical and mental investment. The apprehension of the fall was very difficult to put aside during my first good attempts falling after the crux, the sensations are clearly different without the rope. During the sending session, I did not feel very good on the rope but finally, the sensations came back quite quickly as soon as I started from the ground. I managed to pass the crux on the second try of the day by catching the left hand perfectly. It was the perfect try to top the boulder and not falling for the sixth time after the crux. The end of the boulder went pretty well. My 40 roped climbs of the last 8 movements allowed me to move forward with confidence despite the big shot of adrenaline that made me shake on each move. In the evening I went to Quintessential, an 8B realized in 4 tries, nothing better to end this incredible day!"