29 August 2022
Alphane 9A in two parts by Simon Lorenzi after 5 sessions
Simon Lorenzi, who last year did the FA of Soudain seul (9A) after 26 sessions, reports on Insta that he linked Shawn Raboutou's Alpahane 9A in two parts after just five warm sessions. "The line and moves are amazing. ๐It's an incredible mix of strength, tension and technicity!
I've found the style quite unique and complex since most of the difficulty comes from keeping your feet on the wall and pull enough in it to optimize the hand holds." (c) Oriane Tollebeek
Were you surprised to do so good links so quickly?
I didn't know what to expect when I arrived. I took it step by step and yes I was quite surprised and very happy to make those links in warm conditions.
What is the crux for you?
For me, it's a kind of power endurance on 8-10 moves where you have to keep the tension all the way long.
What is next? Putting up a replica?
First, I'm going to train for the combined comp in Japan at the end of October. In November I will go back to Alphane.
The Belgian has been an active competition climber since 2011. In 2016, he won the Youth Lead Championship, and this year he won the Euro Boulder Cup in Brixen. The 25-year-old has previously also done four 8C+ meaning that if he sends Alphane, he will be a contender for having the most impressive tick list in the world.
Were you surprised to do so good links so quickly?
I didn't know what to expect when I arrived. I took it step by step and yes I was quite surprised and very happy to make those links in warm conditions.
What is the crux for you?
For me, it's a kind of power endurance on 8-10 moves where you have to keep the tension all the way long.
What is next? Putting up a replica?
First, I'm going to train for the combined comp in Japan at the end of October. In November I will go back to Alphane.
The Belgian has been an active competition climber since 2011. In 2016, he won the Youth Lead Championship, and this year he won the Euro Boulder Cup in Brixen. The 25-year-old has previously also done four 8C+ meaning that if he sends Alphane, he will be a contender for having the most impressive tick list in the world.
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