Vertical-Life
Margo 8B FA by Jane Švecová
"I was originally trying Janja SD (8B+) from Martin Stráník. Unfortunately, I couldn't reach most of the holds and the major parts of the moves were impossible for me. While my husband kept trying Janja I decided to entertain myself and kept trying it, I found a completely different way for the crux. The first three to four moves are the same, but then I continued with the moves further up in the roof, so I decided to make a new boulder from it. I've been struggling with one, I would say, the crux move, but then Lucie Hrozová visited me and she came out with a very different beta which suited me even better. Then there was a really hard foot exchange which took me most of the time, to do it.
It is crazy to say but even in the summer, there could be close to five-degree celsius by the boulder, so for many days, I was struggled with cold, or with a wet rock because of the moisture coming from the cave below the boulder. On day eight or so I finally saw some progress. Then the weather was really poor and I had a lot of work, so I was just hang boarding a lot. After a month I got time to get back, and we came to the crag, I warmed up in some easy boulders and sent the project first go. I didn't expect it, everything was just perfect, I just kept going and all of the sudden, I was at the top. So yeah, it was very fast send that day, I decided calling it Margo as it is as well an iconic climber as Janja and the style of this climb is similar to what you can see from Margo, for-example in LaRambla 🙂"
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi
William Bosi has flashed his third 8B, Sviní Mor in Moravský kras which was put up by Adam Ondra in 2013. In the video, Will actually seems to cruise it. "Defin…
Six 8C's and two 9a's in four weeks by Will Bosi
William Bosi has made a trip to Moravský kras where he the first three weeks did six 8C's and Kostěj nesmrtelný 9a (after a broken hold). Later he was #2 after …
Ondra's second hardest route, Zvěřinec 9b+
Adam Ondra sent Zvěřinec (9b+) in Moravský kras last November. "Second hardest route of my life, quite a bit harder than other 9b+ I have done or tried. Harder start into Perlorodka (my FA from 2011 that I graded 9a+ but it is probably more 9b - I just did not want to skip a grade in my homecrag). I…
Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi
William Bosi has flashed his third 8B, Sviní Mor in Moravský kras which was put up by Adam Ondra in 2013. In the video, Will actually seems to cruise it. "Defin…
Six 8C's and two 9a's in four weeks by Will Bosi
William Bosi has made a trip to Moravský kras where he the first three weeks did six 8C's and Kostěj nesmrtelný 9a (after a broken hold). Later he was #2 after …
Ondra's second hardest route, Zvěřinec 9b+
Adam Ondra sent Zvěřinec (9b+) in Moravský kras last November. "Second hardest route of my life, quite a bit harder than other 9b+ I have done or tried. Harder start into Perlorodka (my FA from 2011 that I graded 9a+ but it is probably more 9b - I just did not want to skip a grade in my homecrag). I…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…