Vertical-Life
Sasha
Sasha DiGiulian (13) - challenger to Charlotte Durif
By J-M Casanova who also has taken all the pics
Imagine being 13 years old, having onsighted a 7C+ boulder and a 7c+ route, and to be #2 in the 8a combined world ranking. She has won almost all comps she has entered and in the latest one, Sasha was only beaten by the reigning European Champion Charlotte Durif,*1.
"I climb because it's my way of setting goals, and things to accomplish. Climbing really builds great determination, because it is greatly influenced by mental thinking, like knowing you can do something, even though it might seem impossible- you can't let the impossible take over, because nothing is actually impossible, just takes more work effort than something else might."
"For all those just starting climbing, keep it up. When you fall, stand back up and try it again. Think of falling as improving. Every amount of effort you put in to your climbing, is the amount of progress you will get out of it. Don't give up when you feel like you are doing crappy, keep your head high and keep trying!! ? please note I try my hardest to follow these directions myself, and am certainly no where near being perfect!!!"
1. How and When did you start climbing?
I started climbing at my brother's birthday party about six years ago, and liked it so much that I kept coming back. About five years ago I began competing.
2. How much and How do you normally climb during a week?
I try to climb about 4 -5 days a week, and the days I don't climb, I do power training consisting of lots of different types of pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, and locks, etc. I take one rest day of doing nothing, which I like to have on Fridays. When I climb, if I'm doing endurance I do lots of laps, and if I'm on-sighting I try to on-sight all the new hard routes. For bouldering, I work on problems and do lots of problems without taking much break, to work up power endurance.
3. How is a perfect day at the crag?
About 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit, sun shining on your back, but rock pretty cold, blue sky, rock not wet, and to be psyched to climb!!!
4. Do you have a trainer and are you working with any special exercises?
I've got a main coach who has coached me for about 5 years, Claudiu Vidulescu, and I'm being coached by Jean-Michel Casanova (JM) who is also my manager, and Vadim Vinokur. It pays off because I learn different things from each of them, which really helps!
5. What is your plan for the future? Climbing and Education?
Right now I'm in routes season, so I'm training for worlds, which finally this year I'm old enough for! I like to climb outdoors mainly, but competitions are fun too. I go to a private school, and have gone there since kindergarten. I really like it because I've known everyone for a long time and have lots of awesome friends!
6. Which is the best boulder and route climbing area you have ever visited?
Bouldering: HUECO TANKS for sure! Routes: I liked Red Rocks, NV and Rumney a lot, as well as some places I go to in Quebec, Canada like Val David.
7. Competitions plans? World Cups, etc?
Right now I'm still doing routes comps, and my junior Worlds is at the end of August, so that's the main focus. I'm too young to compete in Adult World Cups L
8. What do you want to do later?
I want to go to Harvard and become a lawyer, while still climbing a LOT!!!
Sponsors: Mad Rock, Sickle and Kidsofclimbing.com
*1. Sasha won after a super final, which took place at the same route as the 15-year-old were competing at. Sasha climbed just two holds underneath Charlotte Durif, who won this older category.