Sean McColl world champion four times
Sean McColl has won the Youth World Championship for the fourth time, making him the most successful junior competitor ever. I met him during the Petzl Roc Trip in Millau, in July, and we had a quick chat. Luckily I found my notebook from this interview. However, even if I go through details like his 8b+ at 12 and piano lessons six times a week for many years etc., the thing that made most impact on me was his relaxed approach and friendliness. You know, he's the type of guy you hope your 25-year-old sister will marry.
World Champion 2002, 2003, 2004 and twice 2006! The best ever competition result for a junior.
Beating the Russian speed specialists Pic Mike Doyle
Sean at the qualification route Pic Mike Doyle
The day after, Sean won the Speed event as well, and since we had a chat over Internet, we start the interview with some questions about his victory. In fact his speed victory was a sensation since all important speed victories, including the World Cups etc, have been won be the speed specialists from Ukraine and Russia, who focus more on speed than lead!
How have you trained for the speed event?
Well, I haven't trained a day of speed climbing in my life, it must be my competitive nature, and my fast twitch running muscles. I just barely beat my opponents every round.
What!? No preparation at all, that sounds really crazy!?
I'm not too sure about speed. I've always been a fast runner and I just relate speed climbing to track running. Also I'm a very powerful climber and enjoy bouldering as well. I believe that in speed, you have to combine physical strength with speed and good muscle memory. Even in the speed climbing this year, I surprised myself.
What are your plans in the short run?
I am currently going to attend the Arco Rockmasters at the beginning of September, and then I'll be going to the World Cup in Marbella, and then I'll be going to Kalymnos for the month of October with the Petzl Roc Trip. In November, I'll be going to the World Cups in Penne, Italy, and Kranj, Slovenia.
And in the long run, education plans etc?
Going back to the US, start working to save for my next climbing trip. I'm planning to just climb for a bit, I've done pretty well and I always want to do better. I already took a year of college, and a year off is nothing out of the ordinary. I might go back to school in August 2007.
Winning the speed event ahead of these guys from Ukraine and Russia who only focus on speed. In fact, this was the first time since 2001 since, that a climber outside Eastern Europe won an important title in speed.
In the autumn of 2000, when we started our Global page, we reported that Sean did his first 8b+, the Pulse, at the age of 12. This was a new world record. What we did not know was that he did the 8b+ after only two years of climbing. Sean has mostly been climbing and training indoors. He mentions that he owes all his training tips to Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle. They have put together his program which includes periodization which means that different training apply for different periods. By talking to Sean you really understand that he is a trained athlete and he underlines this by saying that everybody should have a trainer.
His other two main interests are piano, which he has played every day up until two years ago, and soccer. When I try to calculate how he has had time to do this I start to wonder how he can be so relaxed. I mean, a 150% busy guy like him often tends to be hyper active, responding quickly, especially when he sees that I don't really understand his answers. Instead he just sits there relaxed, enjoying our conversation. Apparently, he has been quite successful also in the field of piano, which maybe a good explanation to why he has such strong fingers. As most of you've probably never heard of any Canadian soccer team, so let's leave it there.
In 2006, he has spent a few months climbing outdoor in Europe and he hopes he can continue this lifestyle. So far he has been lucky with support from his sponsors; Nature Path, Petzl, 5.10, Bluur, Sterling ropes, and Flashed. Probably we will see a stronger focus on outdoor and onsight climbing in the future. So far he has 'only' managed to onsight 8a.