Matteo Gambero, who last autumn did his seventh 9a, has repeated Davide Carena’s Creuza de ma (8c+) in Finale.

Can you tell us more about your latest ascent?
I love climbing always motivated on the projects I try. Sometimes they are beautiful and in beautiful places, sometimes less so, but it is the process of improvement and the inner journey that can sometimes prevail over the objective beauty of the route. This route was bolted by friends in a particular place. It is a former quarry and the rock is often dusty, but even if it rains you can climb. furthermore this route is very modern and physical with some precarious kneebars. I really enjoy trying it when the weather was bad and it was a great workout. Now the good season begins and in addition to bolting new lines I will dedicate myself to even more ambitious projects!

How does a normal climbing week look like and what is the focus pushing for the more ambitious projects at age 50?
I don't have a particular routine but I try to prepare myself as best as possible by trying the projects I choose and training my shortcomings specifically. I always look for new projects both by bolting new lines and by trying routes that I've already climbed but that fascinate me. I live climbing as always and if I'm in good health I don't feel the difference and the weight of age. It's certainly very different now than at 30 but the present is what counts.

Birte Gutmayer, with two 8c’s under her belt, has completed Coma Sant Pere (8c+) in Margalef. ”7B+/C Boulder, nohand, 8c route with 3 parts. The 1st part is the most dynamic, the 2nd the most power enduring and the 3rd the pumpiest. It was the biggest project of my life so far. It taught me a lot about myself, my climbing and my training. All in all a great experience I don’t wanna miss.” (c) Benjamin Gutmayer

Can you tell us more sending your biggest project of your life?
The real challenge for me wasn't just having enough peak strength to consistently climb the boulder, but maintaining that strength over the entire course of projecting. On every climbing trip, I tend to gain endurance quickly—but usually at the expense of my maximum power. That led to the following story.

I first tried the route in the fall of 2022. Back then, I managed to work out some solid sequences, but the boulder gave me serious trouble. After a focused winter training block, I came back in spring 2023 and could finally do the boulder—but the long endurance sections felt impossibly hard. That year, things didn’t really come together for me in general. But by summer 2024, I started to feel strong again, and decided to give it another go that fall. The trip went really well—I had one solid redpoint attempt where I fell on the final hard move just before the chains, missing some crucial details in the beta. After that, the boulder suddenly became an immovable barrier again. I headed home knowing exactly what needed to train.

This year, back in Margalef, I felt right away that I was ready. This time, I added short but intense pull-up sessions on small crimps on a portable hangboard at the end of each projecting day. That way, even on the seventh day on the route, I was still able to send the boulder while having enough endurance left for the final moves. Even though it took two days longer than expected, I knew from early on it was only a matter of a few more tries until I’d clip the chains. So many variables can influence a send, both positively and negatively. Sometimes it just takes time for enough of them to align in a single attempt.

One of the things I’m most proud of this time is that I was able to consistently climb the boulder on every try. The fear of suddenly not being able to do it anymore—like what happened to me in 2024—was constantly present. I'm incredibly relieved to have wrapped up this project successfully. The final sequence of the route was a real battle against the pump, one I’ll remember for a long time. Still, I’m not entirely satisfied with my climbing—or my mindset. I thought I was at a solid level technically and tactically, but this project exposed the areas I haven’t fully mastered yet. And maybe that’s the biggest takeaway from these last few years: the closer you climb to your physical limit, the more room for growth becomes visible. I especially want to climb more decisively, commit more fully to hard moves, and loosen up enough to take calculated risks on individual sequences.

Even at 35, I truly believe there’s still more potential to unlock—as long as I keep seeing ways to improve. And climbing offers those opportunities not just in strength, but in so many different aspects of the game.

Any idea why there are relatively so many females having done it? The four latest ascents in the database are logged by girls?
Good question. I think just because it has no too reachy move?! And sometimes one woman does a route and than another thinks that it is a doable route for woman and so on…

Johannes Hofherr, an active IFSC competition climber from Austria, has completed Sprengstoff (9a) in Lorüns. Jacopo Larcher did the FA of it in 2020 some 20 years after it was bolted by Beat Kammerlander. ”5th ascent, best route I know, my longest journey to a send ever - what a mental battle.” (c) Nemuel Fuerle

Can you tell us more about the journey and how it was mentally?
I first tried this route in 2020 when it was still a project. Balancing training for competitions and outdoor climbing made it an on-and-off journey. Over the years, I had phases of intense effort followed by long breaks. The crag is great for winter climbing, but as soon as spring arrives, it gets too warm.

In November 2023, I came close but ran out of time due to a training camp and my annual two-week break. After that, a rainy winter and subpar form kept me from making real progress—until this March. Suddenly, I felt good on the route again and committed to trying twice a week, as much as my comp training and the sharp holds allowed.

I’ve known for a while that I could do it, but that didn’t make it easier. The history behind it, with Beat Kammerlander attempting it before 2000, added weight to the challenge. The pressure of sending such a meaningful route in my home region made every attempt nerve-wracking.

This March was the first time I believed I could climb even harder routes. But oddly, knowing I should succeed made it mentally tougher. Today’s send wasn’t perfect—my head was flooded with thoughts—but that’s fitting. This route has been a journey of ups and downs, patience, and persistence. And in the end, never giving up made all the difference.

What are your 2025 plans?
My plans for 2025 are to do as well as I can at the first national comp and selections at the end of May to then try to be at a few lead world cups. Then I am gonna be in Rocklands all of August for my first time ever. Maybe trying one or two other 9a's if I get some timeslots in my training weeks but nothing oddly specific. That's pretty much the plans I got so far.

Dan Mirsky, who did his first, out of five 9a’s, at age 35, has done Z-Nation (9a) in . ”Not necessarily the straightest line to the the top of the cave but I will say it was more fun than I thought it would be and I was in need of a side proj. Once I found my way on the reverse Curu boulder it all felt pretty manageable. From there it was a few near misses and one terrible warm up go today. Psyched to get the ball rolling in 2025. Gonna give this one a personal grade of 8c+/9A; harder than The Club, easier than Phat Club. Used my knees and my other wicked cave savvy and still almost fell at the top of the BGC roof for what might be the last time... Thanks to the homies for the encouragement.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This was kind of a funny one for me. On the one hand, I have spent a significant amount of time on all of the routes that make up the Znation link up so in that regard the process was quite long!! On the other hand I only really tried the link up itself a handful of random days this winter. I was intimidated by the proposed difficulty of the boulder problem going from Zulu to The Crew and honestly never tried it before. Once I did, I fairly quickly found a method that suited me and did the whole boulder on my first or second session.

I am certainly pleased to have sent but it definitely didn't feel as challenging as other routes I have done at this level because I knew I could do it all from my previous experience on the individual routes. Znation felt like it was a physical challenge, well right up until I actually thought I was going to send, then of course I let it get in my head just a little bit... Still, I found it much easier to remain confident and I sent quicker than other routes I have done at this grade. I think it really highlights how much the mental component contributes to the difficulty of climbing hard routes.

Jules Marchaland, with four 9a+’ under his belt, has on his second go sent Beyond (9a+) in Pic St Loup. ”Wtf. Best climbing moment of my life. Everything went perfectly. Last 10 meters completely wet was a big mental battle. Really soft for 9a+ . Maybe 9a/+ Merci Lucien [Martinez, who took the picture]!!

Seb Bouin made the FA and called it hard 9a and later a hold broke and repeaters have suggested an upgrade.

Tell us more about that epic second go ascent?
Lucien told me I should try to flash but it is too hard. I did not spend too much time, just found quick beta climbing without any doubt.

When I gave my try, everything was just perfect and I climbed exactely as I hoped to climb. It was too good. I climbed the first part fast and super well and the same for the second boulder. Then it was the last ten meters 7c but the tufas were super wet. It was so hard mentally as both my feet and hands were super wet creating a big fight. Best climbing moment of my life.

Silvio Reffo, with 19 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. Stefano Ghisolfi and Gio Placci shared the FA last November.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It had been a few years since I last climbed at the Eremo di San Paolo, but this new route bolted by Gabriele Moroni gave me a great reason to return. Tre Mou Polacche is a very different route compared to the others in the same sector. It’s less overhanging but features slippery holds that require constant body positioning.

The route starts with a tough but fairly straightforward boulder problem, followed by an upper section that demands finger strength endurance. It took me several attempts to find the right sequences and the proper positioning for my body dimensions. Balancing family, work, and the terrible weather over the past few months made managing this project quite challenging. In my last few sessions, I kept falling on the final moves, which was really frustrating. Fortunately, the good send finally came, and now I can go wear out my skin on other vertical projects.

What projects are you thinking about?
I have a project near home that I still need to send, and I think it could be around 9b. I also still have a few unfinished routes at the Eremo, like Beginning (9a+).