Michele Reusa, who two years ago at age 16 did his first 9a, has done the FA of Majin buu (9a) in Falesia del ghëddo.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Majin buu does the whole first part of Saiyan (8c) and then turns left with a very hard block and a resistance part, a very beautiful route with spectacular movements bolted by my father Iuri Reusa. I have already started trying a new project, Super Saiyan (9a), which could probably be 9a+. It was freed by my brother and given 9a but in my opinion it could be harder than 9a comparing it also with other pitches of the grade.

Any competition plans for 2025?
I have prepared for the 2025 Coppa Italia Lead Senior circuit and the Italian Senior Championship. I hope to participate in some senior Europa Cup!

David Bermudez Carbonell, with six 9a’s under his belt, has during the last four weeks onsighted four 8a+’ and Niña mala (8b).

Can you tell us more about your focus on onsight?
I’ve always liked onsight climbing a lot, but in the past few months, I’ve been focusing on it in a different way because I’ve started traveling more to new areas with my climbing team, Sputnik Climbing. With the help of my trainers, I’ve managed to better visualize the routes from the ground and understand other important things to focus on.

In my opinion, onsight climbing is very important for developing skills that you can’t work on when trying a route multiple times. Giving an onsight attempt with all your energy is much more interesting than a redpoint, but sometimes people don’t find it appealing because onsight climbing pushes you out of your comfort zone—unlike redpointing, where you’re allowed more tries. I also like redpoint climbing, but it’s good to alternate it with onsight climbing.

Gonzalo Larrocha, who sent Selección anal del fuego (9a+) in January [pictured], has done Grabando el pasado (9a) in Santa Linya and Brownie Chulo (9a) in Oliana.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
Both routes are easier versions of the original Mercenaris del passat (8c+) [not repeated since 2007 due to broken hold] and Papichulo (9a+).

Grabando el pasado: Start with a route that I bolted and then go straight to the main boulder of Mercenaris. In my opinion it is one the most endurance demanding routes in the cave.

Brownie chulo: Start on the left side of Joe Blau and arrive to Papichulo just below the second boulder after the ledge. So you should climb the second a third boulder of Papi an the upper part of this route. The main reason to try this, is that I don't feel it is possible to do the original version. This is what weak people should do.

Radek Votocek, who did his first 9a last month, after having completed 14 8c+’, has done Kompletace (9a) in Krkavka. ”First ascent after the crimp broke in the boulder. Climbed directly, the original beta is no possible. Difficulty is roughly the same as Senzace.”

Senzace (9a) was Radek’s first 9a, which he began attempting in 2020. Both of the 9a routes were originally established by Adam Ondra over a decade ago as 8c+, but were later upgraded after key holds broke.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
Kompletace is a route that shares its crux section with Senzace. A few years ago, a fairly important hold broke off. Yesterday, the temperature dropped and the wind brought good conditions for a send, so I’m really happy that I managed to complete this tough route at Krkavka fairly quickly. 😌

After sending Senzace, I came back to the line about five times and gradually worked out a new, more direct beta. The difficulty matches the crux section of Senzace.

Jules Marchaland, with five 9a+’ under his belt, has repeated Seb Bouin’s Guère de bruit (9a) in Claret. ”Really good flash attempt [3 moves to the final jug] and then didn’t check the last moves so fucked up the 2nd go and send first go next sesh. 2 really cool crimpy boulder with a good rest beetween. The direct line is Savage.” (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz

What is the plan for the upcoming weeks?
I’m trying the direct Line of this 9a, probably a hard 9a+. Then just enjoy climbing and go back on Ratstaman Vibrations [Megos 9b in Céüse].