Johannes Hofherr ticks Sprengstoff (9a)

Johannes Hofherr, an active IFSC competition climber from Austria, has completed Sprengstoff (9a) in Lorüns. Jacopo Larcher did the FA of it in 2020 some 20 years after it was bolted by Beat Kammerlander. ”5th ascent, best route I know, my longest journey to a send ever - what a mental battle.” (c) Nemuel Fuerle

Can you tell us more about the journey and how it was mentally?
I first tried this route in 2020 when it was still a project. Balancing training for competitions and outdoor climbing made it an on-and-off journey. Over the years, I had phases of intense effort followed by long breaks. The crag is great for winter climbing, but as soon as spring arrives, it gets too warm.

In November 2023, I came close but ran out of time due to a training camp and my annual two-week break. After that, a rainy winter and subpar form kept me from making real progress—until this March. Suddenly, I felt good on the route again and committed to trying twice a week, as much as my comp training and the sharp holds allowed.

I’ve known for a while that I could do it, but that didn’t make it easier. The history behind it, with Beat Kammerlander attempting it before 2000, added weight to the challenge. The pressure of sending such a meaningful route in my home region made every attempt nerve-wracking.

This March was the first time I believed I could climb even harder routes. But oddly, knowing I should succeed made it mentally tougher. Today’s send wasn’t perfect—my head was flooded with thoughts—but that’s fitting. This route has been a journey of ups and downs, patience, and persistence. And in the end, never giving up made all the difference.

What are your 2025 plans?
My plans for 2025 are to do as well as I can at the first national comp and selections at the end of May to then try to be at a few lead world cups. Then I am gonna be in Rocklands all of August for my first time ever. Maybe trying one or two other 9a's if I get some timeslots in my training weeks but nothing oddly specific. That's pretty much the plans I got so far.