
28 March 2025
Silvio Reffo ticks Tre Mou Polacche (9a)
Silvio Reffo, with 19 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. Stefano Ghisolfi and Gio Placci shared the FA last November.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It had been a few years since I last climbed at the Eremo di San Paolo, but this new route bolted by Gabriele Moroni gave me a great reason to return. Tre Mou Polacche is a very different route compared to the others in the same sector. Itโs less overhanging but features slippery holds that require constant body positioning.
The route starts with a tough but fairly straightforward boulder problem, followed by an upper section that demands finger strength endurance. It took me several attempts to find the right sequences and the proper positioning for my body dimensions. Balancing family, work, and the terrible weather over the past few months made managing this project quite challenging. In my last few sessions, I kept falling on the final moves, which was really frustrating. Fortunately, the good send finally came, and now I can go wear out my skin on other vertical projects.
What projects are you thinking about?
I have a project near home that I still need to send, and I think it could be around 9b. I also still have a few unfinished routes at the Eremo, like Beginning (9a+).
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It had been a few years since I last climbed at the Eremo di San Paolo, but this new route bolted by Gabriele Moroni gave me a great reason to return. Tre Mou Polacche is a very different route compared to the others in the same sector. Itโs less overhanging but features slippery holds that require constant body positioning.
The route starts with a tough but fairly straightforward boulder problem, followed by an upper section that demands finger strength endurance. It took me several attempts to find the right sequences and the proper positioning for my body dimensions. Balancing family, work, and the terrible weather over the past few months made managing this project quite challenging. In my last few sessions, I kept falling on the final moves, which was really frustrating. Fortunately, the good send finally came, and now I can go wear out my skin on other vertical projects.
What projects are you thinking about?
I have a project near home that I still need to send, and I think it could be around 9b. I also still have a few unfinished routes at the Eremo, like Beginning (9a+).
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