Dylan Chuat, who earlier this spring did his first 9a+, has made the FA of Big nose (8C) and repeated Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. (c) Sebastien Maflin

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
After a major cleaning session with Clément Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, it’s one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. It’s impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!

I took a while to decide on the grade because it’s much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C I’ve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago 😅). However, I wasn’t in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and I’ve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!

Jonathan Siegrist has done The Ritual (9a) at The Temple. In total, the 38-year-old has now sent 79 routes 9a to 9b. ”Bad ass route. Long RH move at the end of the traverse was my definitive crux. Some left over fitness from Swiss helped me get through the second half. Loved climbing on this thing, fingers feel ready now for the neighbor!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your latest trip to Europe?
There’s a really unique area in Ten Sleep canyon with steep clean rock called ‘The Temple’. Matt Wendling bolted some futuristic lines back in the mid 2000’s and in the last several years BJ Tilden opened 2 of these projects at 9a. Both are amazing! ‘The Ritual’ is a bit easier so I started on this one with the hope that it would help train my fingers for ‘Pneuma’ (its more bouldery neighbor).

Earlier in July I was in Chamonix for the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy and decided to extend my trip for a week to check out some of the climbing around Martigny, Swiss. I was so psyched on some of the new stuff there! For sure it was clear that I need to come back next year for more.

Mei Kotake, who won the Lead World Cup in Briancon two weeks ago, has completed New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.

What is your next project?
I’m working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. I’ll go back there next spring.

Eva Hammelmüller has done M'enfin (8c) in La Saume. During the last week, the 24-year-old has now done five routes 8b+ and beyond. (c) Felix Mast

”The latest 8c I climbed definitely felt not easy for the grade. The holds on this climb are tiny, and the moves require unique body positions. As it was our last day in La Saume (and the third climbing day in a row😅) I knew I had to make every attempt count, and I am happy to have climbed this cool route within a few goes!”

Michaela Kiersch is about setting a new standard in Rocklands by adding and to her list. In total, she has now done 16 boulders 7C+ and harder during her first 18 days. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I worked Master key last week and sorted out my beta fairly quickly. After a couple of tries from the bottom I ripped two very deep, bloody splits in my tips. It’s been a week and they are healed and I was able to do it in 2 tries today. I then went over to Green Mamba and after sorting my beta I sent 2nd try from the start, maybe 20 minutes. Maybe 6 tries total when counting working moves.

Dimitri Vogt has repeated Alexander Rohr’s Inferno (9a) in Gimmelwald (extrem) and a few days later he did the eight pitches L'Histoire sans Fin (8b+) in Bas-Valais.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.

From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.

After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and I’m far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.