Mattea Pรถtzi does Le Cadre orginal (8c+)
Mattea Pรถtzi, who got the bronze in the last World Cup, has completed Et on tuera tous les Affreux (Le Cadre original) (8c+) in Cรฉรผse. โ€5 days and 14 attempts later I could clip the chains of this amazing climb! First 8c+ (did no 'real' 8c before ;) ) and it went down pretty quickly after I figured out all the moves. Gradewise: first crux might be easier for us small folk (really high foot) but it evens out in the second crux, where I had to step really, really high again to make it work. Anyway, I'll just go with 8c+, as this seems to be the consensus after broken hold :)โ€ (c) Miro Enzenberger

Semis Decide Girlsโ€™ U-19 Results
The U-19 girls' final at the Youth World Championship in Arco produced an exceptionally close contest, with four athletes scoring 34+. Anika Deubler claimed theโ€ฆ
Chanjin Jung defends his YWC title
Chanjin Jung, who also won the youth world championship in 2025, was the only climber to top the semifinal route, then went on to finish three holds ahead of thโ€ฆ
Sara ล imekova ticks Rustam Direct (8B)
Sara ล imekova, #8 in the Euro Boulder/Lead Youth Championship last year, has done Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. โ€œClimbed on second session. For smaller people the end is also quite uncomfortable. The hardest part for me was to connect it all together.โ€ (c) Hanka ล ikulovรก

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one ๐Ÿ˜… After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...

On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.

Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.

Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomรกลก Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. ๐Ÿ™ Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me โค)

What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.

Michaela Kiersch ticks The Arch (8B)
Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands by doing The Arch (8B).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried The Arch after a long day of other projects and worked out my beta in the dark but was way too tired to send. I did it second try in my 2nd sesh. At the end of another long day of other projects ๐Ÿ˜‰

How do you like bouldering in Rocklands?
I think going to any new area feels exciting and overwhelming because of all the possible climbs to try. So far (aside from the rain) itโ€™s been incredible. Pretty much my bouldering is limited to Switzerland and Rocklands ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚.

How do you choose which boulders to try?
I created a to-do list based on classics in the area as well as climbs in the grade range I was interested in. And then I started going down the list and trying all the climbs which were close to each other. Iโ€™m in great shape so luckily most of my sends have happened in 1 session.

Eva Hammelmรผller does two 8c's
Eva Hammelmรผller, who was #24 in last World Cup, has in three tries each, done Dragรฉe Fuca (8c) and Idรฉe fixe (8c) in Brianรงon. In total, the 24-year-old has now done 28 routes 8c to 9a. (c) Felix Mast

How is it to combine World cups and outdoors?
I spent most of the pre-season preparing for the World Cups, so I didnโ€™t get to spend too much time climbing outside. I think I made some progress regarding my fitness, but I couldnโ€™t really bring it on the wall at the World Cups. Now, I am just happy to climb outside again, and I am so psyched to climb all those amazing routes in the Brianรงon region!

Jenn DeBellis Sends Law and Order (8A+)
Jenn DeBellis, with seven 8Aโ€™s under her belt, has completed Law and Order (8A+) in Rocklands. โ€œA special treat to top out to the sun setting over the valley.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was surprised last season to find a relatively static method to work for me, and I was inspired to finish what I started when coming back this season. It felt like a perfect Rocklands experience to top out the boulder, after a bit of a fight, to a vibrant sunset.

Michaela Kiersch flashes Light Saber (8A)
Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands and after two weeks she has now done ten boulders 8A and beyond. Today she flashed Light Saber (8A) and later sent Tea with Elmarie 8A (+). (c) Kevin McNally

Tara Hayes does Isles of Wonder (8B)
Tara Hayes, who did her first 8B last year, has completed Isles Of Wonder (8B) in Ogwen valley. The 27-year-old finished her competition career in 2022 after being part of the GB team for 14 years. Her best results were a silver in the Youth World Championship and in 2019 she was #12 in the European Championship.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was psyched to try Isles of Wonder as soon as I saw a video, it's a straight up line with cool moves in a great location. I first tried it last summer and after a couple of sessions knew it was within my capabilities. I was hitting the last hold (excluding the top out) from the start so I was confident it would go. I then went to Rocklands for a month and unfortunately didn't get back to try it until May this year. After 1 session of re-learning the moves, I felt like I was in good enough shape to get it done. I knew I needed to try it consistently to give myself the best chance so I ended up having about 7 sessions in the last month. I felt closer each time but still lacked the belief to stick the last hold (it looks really far when you're setting up for it!), despite feeling OK in isolation. Thankfully on Friday I was in the right headspace to get it done and managed to execute the moves really well and find some extra try hard. Overall it's by far the most commitment I've put in.

Piotr Oleszczuk flashes two 8Bโ€™s
Piotr Oleszczuk had a great start of his trip to Rocklands by flashing two 8Aโ€™s and Hipster Whale (8B). Yesterday, he sent one 8A+ and four 8Bโ€™s including a flash of Moon shadow (8B).

Can you tell us more about the 8B flashes and your trip?
I came to Rocklands for a month. For the first 5 days, the weather wasn't on our side, and climbing was more about finding dry and climbable rocks. Fortunately, the weather improved a bit, and we could start climbing the classics. Hipster Whale was one of the boulders I had my eye on.

That day, I simply warmed up as usual, checked out what I could from the ground, and then tried from the bottom to test the first few moves, which seemed the hardest. I didn't set up any camera because I didn't expect I'd be able to flash an 8B. It turned out that the initially difficult moves seemed easier than I thought, and shortly after, I found myself on top of the boulder. :)

Three days later, on a rainy day, I went to The Coop sector, where the only dry boulder was Moonshadow. This time, I recorded all my attempts. Regarding this boulder, I had a feeling it might suit me, because crimps, long moves and heel-toe jams are the style I feel best at, so this time in the back of my head I wanted my first go to be as good as possible. I warmed up again on the dry parts of the surrounding rocks, checked what I could from the ground, gave it a try, and did everything just as I planned.

I watched videos. I have a phone full of screen recorded YouTube uncuts with beta for every boulder I want to try in an area, so I only used that ๐Ÿ˜…. My friend also gave it a few tries before me to tell me how it feels :)

During the attempt, to make it more interesting, it started raining again. So, when I got past the difficult part, it was raining on my face, the holds on the top slab were damp, and an unprotectable tree awaited below. Fortunately, I managed not to fall on the 6B topout and did the whole thing on the first try. This ascent was the beginning of what turned out to be the most successful day in my climbing career so far. By the end of the day, I had completed three other 8Bs (one of them almost flashing again) and one 8A+.

Sung Su Lee does The Finnish Line and three more 8Cโ€™s
Sung Su Lee has been on a four weeks trip to Rocklands where he managed to send The Finnish Line (8C), Spray of Light (8C), The smile (8C) and Monkey Wedding (8C)

Which boulders were the highlights of your trip?
I think The Finnish Line [pictured] was most impressive to me. One of my dream boulders ever. This boulder was always inside in my heart. The Smile was insane. Itโ€™s pretty tall with a jump move and I had only 4 pads and 2 spotters. One of my most scary boulders ever. Special thanks to [Brian] Kim and Zach [Galla].

Can you tell us about your climbing background?
When I was young my dad was already climbing, so I was able to start climbing 16 years ago [at age 9] with him. I was doing competition climbing until two years ago. Six months ago, I got to go to Bishop with my boys and it really got me psyched about outdoor bouldering.

I felt liberated from the pressure I felt competing. I love outdoor bouldering because the boulders will always be there and I could meet so many amazing new friends along the way. I felt like I couldnโ€™t prove myself in competitions, but now that Iโ€™ve been outdoor bouldering, I feel like I can really show what Iโ€™m capable of. I wasnโ€™t able to become one of the best athletes in competitions in the world, but I can see the possibility in outdoor bouldering.

This past trip to Rocklands was my third ever bouldering trip, but I surprised myself doing so many more boulders than I anticipated.

Iโ€™ll be heading to Swiss in September to try Alphane V17. I hope to train hard and send it this upcoming trip!โ€จ There are still not too many South Korean climbers that climb outside but I hope that one day I can be someone that can represent South Korea in outdoor bouldering. I hope that one day I have the opportunity to show the world who Sung Su Lee is and what Iโ€™m capable of.