Dimitri Vogt completes Inferno (9a) and a MP 8b+

Dimitri Vogt has repeated Alexander Rohr’s Inferno (9a) in Gimmelwald (extrem) and a few days later he did the eight pitches L'Histoire sans Fin (8b+) in Bas-Valais.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.

From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.

After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and I’m far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.