Sera Gearhart has repeated Chris Sharma’s Spinal Twist (8B) in Little Cottonwood and sent Spirit Walker (8B) in Ogden.

Can you tell us more about the process behind the two ascents?
The boulder [Spinal Twist] itself is really sick and revolves around some tricky technical sequences. I tried this boulder maybe three days in the fall before falling on the easy outro from the bottom, kind of a punt. I wasn’t prepared to get there at all since it was at night and I didn’t have a headlamp on. Lesson learned! I went back another day in the winter and the conditions were horrible so I wrote it off for a few months. I was sick and traveling for awhile so I didn’t go back until it was a bit too warm this year. This spring I went back another 2 or 3 days but was pretty discouraged since it sits in the sun in the afternoon this time of year and it’s hard for me to go in the morning. I wrote it off again for the season. We got a lucky cold day this week and a few friends and I went to go try. When we got there, I was pretty sure it was going to still feel too warm (again in the sun) but my friend Matt convinced me it would be worthwhile (thanks Matt!)

[Spirit Walker] This was a very similar process! I fell at the end in December and thought I was close, then from a variety of reasons I didn’t get to go siege again until March (sickness, travel, injury). When I went back I realized I could do a more standard beta which gave me a minor existential crisis. Luckily Matt Fultz advised me to keep trying my old beta and it worked. Down to the wire since it got super hot there as well.

How does a normal week look like for you?
A normal week for me isn’t too bad! I’m definitely busy but I prioritize climbing over school. I work standard hours Monday through Friday and go to class, and I usually do all my homework and exams for the week one day on the weekend! I’m excited for summer since I won’t have school.

What is your job and what do you study?
Both my work and school are in biomedical informatics, I work for the American heart association where I do work on quality improvement. I just started last fall for the masters degree, I have another year and a half until I graduate.

How much do you climb in a week?
I am able to climb outdoors most evenings if I stay local, I just put off doing my school work until the weekend haha it’s a lot.

Eva Hammelmüller, with five 9a’s since last year under her harness, has repeated Adam Ondra’s Bombardino (9a+) in Arco. The 23-year-old, who is runner-up, in the female ranking sent it last weekend after a total of just four sessions. (c) Felix Mast

”Speechless. Never have I ever thought in my wildest dreams that I could do this route that quickly. It already felt amazing when I tried it last week on my third day of climbing. This weekend, I returned with good skin, refined my beta yesterday, and sent it today. I still simply can't believe it. I think the crux is 100% my style, and the route is for sure a very very soft one for the grade. Nonetheless, I am just super super proud!!”

Hannes Puman, who did a big wall FA in Yosemite in 2024, has done the first ascent of Trainspotting Direct (8C) in Lexby. The name comes from it being located in a small grove only 200 meters from a train station, nine minutes from Göteborg Central Station. Henrik Sennelöv started projecting it 35 years ago, and in 2016 Alex Megos made the first ascent of the left hard 8B version.

Hannes, who just visited Fontainebleau, doing multiple 8A+ to 8B+ quickly, repeated the original Megos 8B line some years ago.

“I think I finished the straight-up line after some five sessions this winter. It does not look hard with the big rounded feature at the top, but it sure is. This winter I have climbed more outdoors, and this seems to have helped a lot.

What is next, and what about your Olympic quest?
I have a couple more projects, but I guess they will have to wait for the winter. Regarding comps, I have been bothered by a thumb injury that makes it hard to pinch, so I think I will have to skip the first comps.

The Olympics is still a dream but at the moment the main priority is getting injury free. Meanwhile I’m enjoying climbing outdoors. The bouldering season has been great but I’m very excited for trad and sport season!”

The 28-year-old was Youth World Champion in 2014, and his best senior result is eight in the World Championship and fourth in the Euros.

Gianluca Vighetti, who finished last year by sending two 9a+’, has repeated Adam Ondra’s Bombardino (9a+) in Arco, giving it a personal 9a grade. ”Literally the most unexpected ascent I've ever done. Did it in the evening after training in the Rock Master stadium.🤯 It would be crazy to do a 9a+ like that but I am sure this awesome route is not more than a 9a, and not an hard one if I compare it to the other ones I tried. 8b+, medium-good rest, 7C or 7C+ boulder.” (c) Crimp Films

Last year, the 17-year-old won two Euro Youth Cups and here is his full report of his amazingly quick ascent.
”This ascent literally came out of nowhere. A couple of weeks ago I made a quick trip to Arco together with my dad and my friend Giovanni Giachino, who was competing in the National Team Trials, while I took it as an opportunity to train on the routes in the Rock Master Stadium. This was the original plan, but then, on Sunday, after he finished the Trial kinda early (2p.m.) and I had already climbed 5 hard routes, we decided to use the time left to go check out this awesome route that has been on my mind for a while. I just wanted to get an idea, to see if I had a chance and hopefully come back next season.

After an attempt where I found all the betas for the hard boulder (and not really the rest of the route), I gave another try to see where I would fall and, I have no idea how, I didn’t. If I have to be honest I really wish I could say that I could do a 9a+ in 2 attempts, that would be crazy. But realistically I think it’s 100% not more than 9a, and not a really hard one, the new beta probably makes it a lot easier than before. This route was as cool as I expected it to be, and the crag is absolutely magical.”

Prune Martinoty has sent Stay kratom stay safe (8c) in Saint Léger. In 2023, she sent her first 8b+ and since, she has focused mainly on Stay… which she took down after some 35 sessions. (c) Clement Bustel

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started thinking about climbing 8c three years ago. When I first tried Stay (Stay Kratom Stay Safe), it felt impossible to send because the hard moves seemed extreme, and even the “easy” sections were hard for me. So I trained, and little by little the project started to feel possible. Last winter I was really close to sending, but I broke a pulley.

It felt like my dream was falling apart, so every day since then I’ve worked hard to get my level back. In the fall I returned to the route, but the rain interrupted attempts for the whole winter. I came back to the route about ten days ago, and every day I was falling higher. On Sunday I fell almost at the top, and I was so sad to fail.

On Tuesday, my first run was difficult because the rain had once again soaked the key hold for the first crux. I had decided to go home, but I didn’t want to come all the way to the crag for just one attempt, so I got myself ready again.

I fell twice in a row at the second quickdraw. I told my friends, “if I fall again, I’m done, I’m leaving.” And then I passed the section, even though the hold was completely wet, all the way to the good rest. And I knew that from there I could send, because I had already done it two days before. But to avoid pressure and not mess it up, I pretended that I hadn’t just done the bottom and that I was only trying for practice.

I felt good on every move, super focused. I took my time on every rest, even though they’re not great… When I reached the last rest, I felt the emotion rising because I knew it was done. Then came a few meters of very easy climbing, just to enjoy what you’ve achieved.

When I pulled the rope, it was crazy. The moment the rope started to clip into the carabiner, I exploded with joy. It was incredible to realize how far I had come. For some people, climbing 8c isn’t a big deal. But for me, I had just achieved my dream. It was extraordinary. Even this morning, I still can’t quite believe it.

What is next?
Now I want to do some easier route like 8a-8b for the rest of holiday and after go back for another 8c. Two in one season would be amazing.

Next dream it’s probably 9a but not sure it’s possible if you’re not professionnal climber and not ready to go through this process again. I need to enjoy my victory, and then I’ll get back to training for do other 8c and maybe harder routes.

Stefano Carnati and Pepa Šindel have sent Biologico (9a) in Arco. Adam Ondra did the first ascent in 2012 and in total it has been logged 16 times in the database.

Carnati: “Tried a few days some 8/10 years ago and 6 more tries this weekend. Didn’t pre-clip the third bolt. Placed a longer sling and clipped it from the jug, which still kept the jump safe. It doesn’t add much in terms of difficulty, but it does interrupt the flow into the first boulder. A better rebolting with the third bolt placed lower down should be considered.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Biologico was one of those projects I left unfinished about 8–10 years ago, sitting in a long list of “to do someday” climbs. So it felt really special to finally go back to it after so long. I’m currently recovering from a small tendon issue in my ring finger (nothing serious), but my last trip to Margalef was pretty tough on it, so I ended up just climbing easier stuff instead of really projecting.

What is next?
I’d love to get to Céüse as soon as possible. I don’t have any real plans for the summer yet. I finished my PhD last month, so I’m enjoying some free time while figuring out my next steps.

Leo Cea, with five 9a’s in under his belt, has spent the Easter holiday in Arco where he sent Underground (9a) and Pungitopo (8c+). Back home in Frankenjura the 13-year-old quickly climbed Kawaschuwu (8c+).

”During the Christmas holidays of 2025, I visited Arco for the first time — a place I had heard so much about, with a deep climbing history, and somewhere I had always wanted to experience. Now that I live in Germany, it’s relatively close, which makes projecting there a real possibility.

My first goal was to try Pure Dreaming (8c+/9a) in the Massone Pueblo sector. It’s a variation of the classic Reini’s Vibes, first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2018. I was also really inspired knowing that Andrea Chelleris sent it at just 12 years old. Even though I only spent four days there over Christmas, it went quite quickly: I sent it in 3 sessions and a total of 6 attempts. It became my last hard project of 2025.

But my projects in Arco didn’t end there. Together with my family and my coach, I chose Pure Dreaming also because it has an extension that adds the first section of Underground, turning it into a 9a+. That motivated me a lot, since one of my main goals for 2026 is to push my grade further. During that same Christmas trip, I started trying Underground. Although the wall isn’t completely natural — as it’s an old quarry — over time it has become a place full of history and incredible lines. Underground is a very special route. I read in an article from Desnivel that, according to Javi Cano, it was the first 9a in Italy, which made it even more motivating for me.

The route is an impressive roof: over 20 meters of steep, very physical climbing with three well-defined crux sections. The first one — the hardest — was the most challenging for me: powerful but also extremely precise. Finding my beta wasn’t easy, since the methods most adults use didn’t work well for me because of my height. Still, I was fascinated by the route from the very beginning.

I came back in February to keep working on it, but the conditions didn’t help at all. There was humidity, and several key holds in the crux were wet. Even so, the trip was very valuable: I was able to refine the moves, better understand the line, and go back home motivated to train specifically for the route — both in the gym and on rock in Frankenjura.

This Easter break felt like the perfect moment to return. The conditions were good, and I felt very well prepared — both for Underground and Pure Dreaming Plus. And it was incredible… right after getting out of the car and walking to the crag, I sent Underground on my second attempt of the day. Regarding the grade, while some suggest 8c+/9a, I personally agree more with the original 9a, as also proposed by climbers like Laura Rogora, whose height is closer to mine (144.5 cm tall, 150.5 cm wingspan). During that same trip, I also managed to send two classic routes in the sector that were in good condition: Super Maratona (8b+) on my second go, and X-Large (8c) on my third.

The next day I started trying Pure Dreaming Plus, and it went really well — I reached the upper crux twice. I felt that, with the days I had left, sending it could be possible, and I was really enjoying climbing this beautiful ~50-meter line. I took a rest day, and when I came back, an Italian climber told me that a key hold had broken at that crux, and that the route had become almost impossible.

I felt a bit frustrated, but after talking it through with my dad and my coach, I decided to change projects and try Pungitopo (8c+), an incredible natural slab in the Red Point Wall sector, first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2022. I was also really motivated knowing that climbers like Laura Rogora and Michaela Kirsch had sent it. I was excited to try something completely different: moving from a powerful, explosive roof to a technical slab on a fully natural line. That made it really fun.

So I dedicated the last days of the trip to Pungitopo. I had read that Ondra described it as one of the most beautiful lines in the area, and it truly is. The grey rock is amazing, very aesthetic, and the moves are extremely precise, requiring balance and full-body tension. A really beautiful route. With that, I completed what I had planned for Arco. It was a very fun and challenging process. Rock climbing is like that — you have to adapt to circumstances, like the weather or even the possibility of a key hold breaking on your main project. But that’s exactly what makes it more alive, more uncertain, and also more exciting. I’m very happy to be achieving what I set out to do together with my family and my coach: building consistency on routes between 8c and 9a across very different styles and rock types — endurance on classic lines (Era Vella), tufas (Trip Tik Tonik), steep pocket climbing (Víctimas Pérez), physical roofs (Underground), powerful finger-intensive routes (Wallstreet), and fully technical slabs (Pungitopo). All of this is helping me develop into a more complete sport climber. Now I’m really motivated to keep climbing in Frankenjura, and I’m also planning a trip to Spain this autumn.”

Solveig Korherr, with two 9a’s under her belt, has onsighted Panem et Circensis (8b) in Arco. It was the last route she tried on her eleven days trip. The picture by Emile Pino is from Terra Piatta (8b+).

Can you tell us more about your onsight experience?
It was a very spontaneous decision to jump on this route. It was my last climbing day of the trip and when I already sent the route I came for (I Riflessi del Rosso (1st pitch) (8b+)), I just wanted to squeeze in a few more pitches before heading home. When I saw that the quickdraws were already hanging on the 8b, I decided to check it out without any expectations.

I quickly got into a great flow. The climbing felt quite straight forward following the crimp line. As I moved upward, I started to realize: wow, this might actually go. I focused on staying calm and kept it together all the way to the top. Those are some of my favorite sends. The ones where I surprise myself and go in with no expectations.

Martin Švec, husband to Jana Svecova, who just did her second 8C FA, has completed Drift (8C) in Moravský kras. ”Such a mental battle, fell 15times from the top slab… finaly broke through The plateau and years of injuries.”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent including the injury problems?
This might sound as a proper grind but it was actually a great multiyear experience for me with much bigger perspective than just sending 8C I started trying Drift late summer 2023. I got close during the winter, but then I ruptured my A2 pulley, along with some serious joint inflammation from a two-finger pocket undercut (but the FA that came out of it is one of the best Czech V12, “comp style SD”) . It took forever to recover. December 2024, I got to the last hard move… and then tore another A2 in January 2025. 2025 was probably the worst climbing year for both me and Jane. I had just one session on Drift that year. We were both out of the game for almost 6 months.

By the end of summer, I felt like I could climb a bit again, and for the first time I started working with a climbing coach. All the injuries I had basically came from overtraining, lack of rest, and not enough variety in my training. I got into the best shape of my life in like 4months. By the end of December, I was already stronger than ever. Inbetween trying other hard boulders I kept going through the training cycles, and by mid-March I got back on Drift. On my third session, I fell in the final 7B+ slab. And I thought, “Yeah, it’s easy, I’ll just cruise it next session.” And I already started thinking what is going to be the next project. But climbing never was about being just physically strong enough. It turned into a crazy mental battle 😁 I underestimated the mantle, and it gave me a proper lesson 😁

In the end it took me 9 sessions this year (close to 40 in total) and about 15 falls from the final mantle 🙏 I’m actually glad it went this way — it means much more to me now than if I had sent it in the 3rd or 4th session